Selway Fisher Clyde 18

[biglad]

I've been working away on the boat. Planking is finished- I'm now planing, filling, fairing, sanding before I glass cloth and epoxy the hull.20210920_204816.jpg20210920_204752.jpg

[Oldad]

Looking great, following with interest.

[timo4352]

Looking good!

[Andrew2]

You do have some constraints re space...
I have my 17 + ft on a spit, can just roll it between the ground and rafters, so can comiserate.
Coming on well..

[biglad]

The hull has been glassed- I did it the dry method and it took about 6 hours to do.

The stem is laminated in place, but not yet to the boat so I can clean it up on the bench. Just the 4 spray rails each side, the first lift of the skeg and a coat of primer to go on before rollover. The skeg is 3 lifts of 50mm timber, but I wont get it out the door with them all on. I'll fit the first to the boat20211010_094538.jpg, glue 2 and 3 together and then fit them later.

[biglad]

Managed to get the stem and skeg glued on the boat today. I went for all 3 lifts of the skeg together, just had to chop off a 35mm sided triangle off the lower edge of it to get the door closed. With the taper on the skeg, the boat will easily come out the workshop when it's time to roll over.20211015_164703.jpg20211015_164641.jpg

[neil.henderson]

Great progress in limited space - well done. I'm just gluing up the 4 stems/aprons for my CY build.

Do you think you might power the new build using an electric motor?

Onwards & upwards Regards Neil

[CK 17]

Beautiful job getting that ply, between the chine and keel towards the stem, to bend. It looks great.

[biglad]

I hadnt thought about electric power, was going to go for a 25-40hp petrol outboard.

Got the spray rails cut this morning- need to get the hull ready for paint before I glue those on. Otherwise it's more obstacles to sand round.

[Oldad]

Nice progress, biglad.

[biglad]

Been plodding away with the boat- I've got the 8 spray rails cut and fitted. A little bit of sanding to go, and then I'll put on 3 coats of primer, leaving enough hull exposed for the gunwales to be glued o20211026_193321.jpgn. Then it'll be time to roll over the hull.20211026_193902.jpg

[Liberty53]

Looks great! Love the spray rails.
-Derek

[Rich Jones]

It's looking good, but those are not really spray rails. More like grounding rails or external bilge stringers... not sure of the name but they do have a name other then spray rails. Spray rails run along the hull just above the waterline.

[biglad]

I've just called them spray rails as that's what they are referred to as on the plans. One of their jobs is to stiffen the bottom plank, like an external bilge stringer would as you suggest. I notice a big difference to it, especially when I'm climbing all over the hull. I also fitted two internal longitudinal stringers to help (2 sets of double layer 12x75 per side), as I've chosen (with the designers input) to plank the hull in 9mm, as opposed to the other option of 2 layers of 6mm.

[Rich Jones]

I had those external bilge stringers on the 14' Cackler stitch and glue boat I built over 22 years ago.
They work since the boat is still going strong!

[biglad]

Here's a photo after the first of 3 coats of 2pack primer. I've left room for the gunwales to be glued on, thats why the paint doesn't continue to the sheerline.

20211109_160211.jpg

[Oldad]

Wonderful boat!

[biglad]

Rollover dayIMG_0914.jpg20211120_165103.jpg20211120_165322.jpgIMG_0915.jpg!

[timo4352]

Super!

[Christopher Morgan]

It's looking great! What is the deadrise at the transom? Did the designer offer any predictions about the performance you might expect with the 25-40hp?

[Oldad]

Great work, biglad, watching with interest....

[biglad]

Performance wise, the estimates are:

20hp- 12-15knots between cruising and flat out rpm

30-40hp cruise at 15knots at cruising/relaxed rpm

50hp will get the hull to 20knots easily which is the hulls max comfortable hull speed.

I think I'll end up at the lower end of the hp, due to both the cost of outboards and I don't need or want to be racing about burning huge amounts of fuel.

Ill look out the dead rise from the plans for you, I cant remember off hand. The boat has a parallel aft section so it can be shortened/lengthened to suit.

[Liberty53]

Love it!

[Christopher Morgan]

Performance wise, the estimates are:

20hp- 12-15knots between cruising and flat out rpm

30-40hp cruise at 15knots at cruising/relaxed rpm

50hp will get the hull to 20knots easily which is the hulls max comfortable hull speed.

Thanks. I think a 15-knot cruise is just about perfect for this kind of boat.

[Woxbox]

Great project. That's going to be one sturdy boat.

[John Meachen]

I always thin that getting them turned over is a very important sign of progress.Its a boat now!

[biglad]

I did a little bit tonight, starting to cut the sole bearers. I'm climbing in and out like a yo yo!! I've a little bench I keep beside the boat with the tools, timbers etc so I can work on a few at a time. A notepad with simple diagrams and parts labelled so I know which bit goes where. Once I've a reasonable amount I'll have a gluing session and epoxy a batch in.

[biglad]

Cut the locker fronts tonight. Theyre just dry fitted- still to cut the framing and get them glued up. I can then epoxy some timbers to locker fronts and then run the floors from the central spine out to these timbers.

They're a good size- 4 in total, 2 each side separated by a frame, and each one of the 4 is 900mm wide x 600-650mm deep and about 480mm front to back.

I did think about putting a false floor in them so they'd be self draining. This would mean losing space and then the false floor would need an inspection hatch so the space under the locker floor could be aired.

I need to cut out the extra timber above the seat level that's in the middle of the cockpit.- I'll keep it flush with the seat. I had half an idea of running the side decks all the way to the transom, but I'm not going to bother.

I need to think about boxing round the cutout in the transom up to (or close to) gunwale level. Maybe a trip to a boatyard to get some dimensions and ideas on ways to do that. If anyone has photos/ideas how to do it they'd be most welcome.20211123_200842.jpg

[Woxbox]

Do the plans call for foam flotation so she can't sink? That would be good use for the bottom half of those lockers

[biglad]

Yes, I've spoken to the designer about flotation. The void underneath the sole is an ideal place for foam as well- it's not usable for much else.

I could either use closed cell foam blocks/sheets that can be taken out to vent the space. Or I could use a 2 part foam mixture to completely fill the space which would also help support the floor.

In the lockers I could use the 2 part foam to fill it slightly higher than the sole, then let the locker drain into the cockpit, and out through the transom. Save water from fenders etc sitting at the bottom of the locker.

[Mike-in-Suffolk]

The thought of spray foam in a boat gives me the heebie-jeebies. Moisture WILL get in there in the end, and will sit trapped and unseen for years. Think of the next person working on the boat in a decade or two who is going to have to try to remove that foam, even if only to check to see that the compartment is dry. He'll be cursing the boatbuilder. An airtight chamber with a sealing hatch for inspection will do a better job for (probably) less money, and of course, is easily repairable.

[biglad]

I've read some horror stories about spray foam - boats creaking as it expands, the intense heat it creates. That worries me a bit.

Air tight chambers will work under the sole - there are 4 so I can put a hatch in each.

The lockers go right down to the hull skin, so could either put a false floor in them and a hatch, or leave them as is. Epoxy coat them and accept water will get in them from wet stuff eg fenders etc and air them when I can.

[neil.henderson]

I try to avoid putting wet stuff in lockers if I can possibly avoid it - all stuff I need to access quickly (lines, fenders, boat hook) are all accessible in the boat. A neat trick I copied from a friend was to make boxes which slope away from inboard under thwarts to hold the fenders. Just reach under the thwart and bisto there's the fender. I find them very useful. I have them installed under the aft thwart in Bella my 17' motor launch. Lines are on wooden cleats under the sidedecks.

Good Luck Regards Neil

[biglad]

Thats a good plan Neil, thanks. There's a small space either side of where the splashwell will be between here and the inboard edge of the cockpit seat. This could be an ideal space for fenders to be stored. The side decks extend aft of the wheelhouse- cleats could go under here for the lines.

[biglad]

I glued up the locker fronts today. Decided to leave these full depth and will use them for dry storage. Theres going going to be a 250mmx 450mm space between the
locker fronts and the sides of the splashwell where some wet stuff can go. I need to put the cleats on the hull for the ply seats/locker tops and a timber down the centre of the lockers to support the deck hatches, but I need20211130_181736.jpg to get them first so I can cut the framing to size.20211130_181919.jpg