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Thread: Selway Fisher Clyde 18

  1. #246
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    Default Re: Selway Fisher Clyde 18

    I've got the cabin roof fitted and tidied up.

    The corners for the perspex have a 50mm radius but the rubber seal I saw online needs a 100mm radius. I'll redraw 100mm and see what it looks like.

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  2. #247
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    Default Re: Selway Fisher Clyde 18

    I've got the cabin roof fitted and tidied up.

    The corners for the perspex have a 50mm radius but the rubber seal I saw online needs a 100mm radius. I'll redraw 100mm and see what it looks like.

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  3. #248
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    Default Re: Selway Fisher Clyde 18

    You just need a tank gun barrel out the front and you could join them in Ukraine. All jokes aside, you’re making fine progress. It’s going to be close who launches first, you or AJzim

  4. #249
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    Default Re: Selway Fisher Clyde 18

    Sorry for the double post!!

  5. #250
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    Default Re: Selway Fisher Clyde 18

    100mm is no good- the cabin cut out isn't big enough and I don't think it looks right on the wheelhouse side.

    Been doing some research and it seems the rubber seal I liked the look of might not be the best solution anyway. There's some reports of windows being pushed in by a wave. I don't plan on being out in lively weather, but I'd rather not run the risk of wearing my windscreen.

    Any thoughts ideas on a nice, tidy way to fit them? The plans show 9mm perspex with pan head bolts and washers/washer strip at 75mm centres.

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  6. #251
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    Default Re: Selway Fisher Clyde 18

    Sorry, can't help with this one - my wee boats don't have windows or cabins. I have seen some messy window installations in boats so some time spent researching may well be worth it. Perhaps a walk around a local marina or harbour till you find one that looks good might help? If a wave comes in the side window I'd be thinking its time to turn & run home. The modern silicon sealants can work fairly well if used in small amounts and kept to the edges.

    Good Luck Neil

  7. #252
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    Default Re: Selway Fisher Clyde 18

    I have been on a club committee boat with rubber seals that had the window knocked in-we had just decided to abandon racing for the day-and it isn't something I can recommend.A simple and strong solution is to use a strip of this mastic as a bedding compound https://www.arbo.co.uk/products/pref...oseal-gz-tape/ .It does need to have a path cleared for bolts by means of a piece of tube with a bevel around the periphery and there is no obvious reason for more than about a 35mm overlap of the plastic on the cabin side.The usual boat window fastening is a bolt from the outside and using one of these on the inside http://www.hadlowmarine.com/Pages/Interscrews.html .I would tend to use countersunk bolts to keep the protruberance to a minimum.It is worth a bit of trouble to get the spacings equal for the sake of appearance.

  8. #253
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    Default Re: Selway Fisher Clyde 18

    Thanks John, appreciate the links- I'll have a look through. Ive gone off the rubber seal idea! The interscrews look pretty neat.

    Did you put the plastic on the inboard or outboard side of the cabin side?

    Where does the tube go that you mention?

  9. #254
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    Default Re: Selway Fisher Clyde 18

    Put the plastic window on the outside so that an aggressive wave pushes it onto the surface.It also avoids having a gully to collect rain or spray,which will eventually lift the varnish.
    The piece of tube is used to cut a plug of the mastic tape clear so that it doesn't get pushed into the interscrew and prevent the bolt getting enough thread engagement.
    Last edited by John Meachen; 07-03-2022 at 04:17 PM.

  10. #255
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    Default Re: Selway Fisher Clyde 18

    Perfect! Thanks John. From the research I've done, this looks like the best, and strongest way to do it.

  11. #256
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    Default Re: Selway Fisher Clyde 18

    A little bit of progress tonight- the cabin top has the glass cloth and epoxy on, and I've glued on the cockpit side bench tops. I've filleted round the perimeter where I can, but I'll need my son, who has much smaller hands than my shovels, to help do the sections under the quarter knees and side decks. It would've made more sense to fit them earlier, but it was looking like I might run out of longer lengths for the wheelhouse sides etc, and I would've been happy to put these on in sections. I am where I am!

    Paul shows a door on the cabin, but I'm going for washboards. Means I can stow them away and not have a door in my way. The wheelhouse isn't the largest and the door will annoy me. I don't have the timber for the track yet, so I'll get stuck into the wheelhouse. I'm not going to be able to finish it because of the garage door, but pretty sure I'll be able to get a fair bit of the structure in place, before I finish the boat and then chop it off and complete it.

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  12. #257
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    Default Re: Selway Fisher Clyde 18

    I started to get the shape of the wheelhouse tonight. I've got about 1.66m or 5'5 from the underside of the aft horizontal frame to the cockpit sole and about 1.87m from the aft end of the wheelhouse sole to the underside of the frame - the point with the highest headroom.

    I will run the wheelhouse frame down to the seat top (as per the photo) as I might add a narrow piece of ply round the wheelhouse framework and I can attach it to this. Itll only be small, perhaps as far inboard as the cockpit seat fronts to give a small amount of fixed protection and also so that a fabric cover can be made to keep rainwater out. I won't enclose it too much as it's already small and will get cramped easily.

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  13. #258
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    Default Re: Selway Fisher Clyde 18

    Ive finished gluing on the aft section of framework for the wheelhouse. I have allowed a small amount of room behind the vertical frame to get a small piece of ply in to give some weather protection for the wheelhouse. I have to cut the wheelhouse off to get the boat out, so I have cut a scarf in the vertical framework, I thought this might make it a bit stronger and easier when it comes to glue the wheelhouse back on. The lower sections aren't glued on yet- I didn't want them sticking to the top pieces. I'll put some plastic where I don't want them to stick when it comes to gluing them on.

    Next job is work how how to do the horizontal tops of the forward 3 faces, assuming I can get them in around the door framework.

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  14. #259
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    Default Re: Selway Fisher Clyde 18

    Quote Originally Posted by biglad View Post
    I have to cut the wheelhouse off to get the boat out, so I have cut a scarf in the vertical framework, I thought this might make it a bit stronger and easier when it comes to glue the wheelhouse back on.
    .

    Crazy question: Would the boat fit through the door on its side so you don't have to amputate the cabin top?

    Crazier question: Is the header of the garage door wood or brick? You know where this is going.
    Steamboat

    I get by with the judicious use of serendipity.

  15. #260
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    Default Re: Selway Fisher Clyde 18

    No such thing as a crazy question!

    The beam of the boat is 8' wide and the door is 7'. The door has a 3inch metal frame round the opening and it's brick above it- all the way to the roof.

    The frame for the door is causing me all sorts of problems! The track runs right through the front windows. I was planning to build in the forward athwartships beam at the top of the front faces of the wheelhouse. I can't do this because of the track. I'm thinking to put the two upright timbers between the 3 faces and fix them to the main roof timbers and then to the frame I've just put on at the back of the wheelhouse. I can then put what I can of the rest of the frame on. I just want to get as much on to keep its shape when I cut it off, so it goes back on 'easily'. I'll use temporary braces where necessary and fit them to sides and places that I can build round so nothing gets pushed out of alignment when I'm fitting the permanent pieces.

  16. #261
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    Default Re: Selway Fisher Clyde 18

    You are caught between a rock and a hard place.
    Steamboat

    I get by with the judicious use of serendipity.

  17. #262
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    Default Re: Selway Fisher Clyde 18

    I sure am- I knew when Paul drew the boat the framework for the garage might get in the way. Its not so bad, I hope. Tonight when I was measuring up I couldn't see an easy way- For a while I just couldn't see past fitting the forward upper frame first. Going away, doing something else and coming back with a fresh pair of eyes helps sometimes.

    It did cross my mind to just forget the wheelhouse and get a canvas sprayhood made. Long term though, I think it's worth persevering with.

  18. #263
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    Default Re: Selway Fisher Clyde 18

    Next part of the wheelhouse is dry fitted. Ill put temporary bracing across it before I glue it in to keep it square. I have to be careful now I don't build the boat into the garage door frame! I'll fit as much as I can just now, before chopping it off. I'll fit lots of temporary internal bracing on so I can fit the ply skin/perspex etc when it's on the floor.

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  19. #264
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    Default Re: Selway Fisher Clyde 18

    Other than being dependent on the temperament of the weather would it be easier to complete the rest of the boat and then build the cabin to out on the driveway? I can't past the concept of decapitating the boat. Do you plan to make the cabin top removable for storing the boat during the winter.
    Steamboat

    I get by with the judicious use of serendipity.

  20. #265
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    Default Re: Selway Fisher Clyde 18

    The boat is pretty much done- just gunwales, a step from the wheelhouse to the cockpit washboards etc.

    I did think about doing it outside, but our weather is really wet and can be pretty cold in the winter. If I finished the rest of the boat, painted etc I'll likely be ready just as the weather is getting worse.

    I'm ok with chopping it off. I've got the line marked at the scarf , below the side windows where it's to be cut. I thought about building a temporary shelter, but it doesn't solve my temperature problems.

    I want to get as much of the wheelhouse built and framed, so I'm sure it'll go back on, in the same place.

    I dont plan on taking the cabin off. It'll live outside, on the trailer, covered during the winter.
    Last edited by biglad; 07-14-2022 at 04:01 PM.

  21. #266
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    Default Re: Selway Fisher Clyde 18

    For a while today I thought of finishing the boat as much as I can, bringing the boat out and completing it outside. I don't think the boat would come out as it is, the wheelhouse sides will hit the door frame. So chop it off it is! Today I made a little progress - the lower sections of the wheelhouse frame are glued on, and I've got the sections of the wheelhouse frame gluing up on the bench.

    I've marked and made the initial cut for when I take the wheelhouse off. Plastic tape is on the faces of the upper part of the wheelhouse and the scarf where I don't want it to stick.

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  22. #267
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    Default Re: Selway Fisher Clyde 18

    Good choice.
    Building the boat around that garage framework would be a nightmare.
    Keep at it .......
    Your well on your way to having a completed boat.

  23. #268
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    Default Re: Selway Fisher Clyde 18

    Cheers, I hope so...
    By chopping it off I get the best of both worlds... finish the hull inside, and when the wheelhouse is off and the boat outside, I can finish the wheelhouse inside, on the floor undercover and in a heated space if I need it.

    With enough bracing I hope I can keep the wheelhouse in its shape so it'll go back on nicely. I'll permanently fit what I can now, and then temporary bracing so I can fit the permanent panels/frame later. I won't paint the sections where the wheelhouse will be epoxied back to the hull.

  24. #269
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    Default Re: Selway Fisher Clyde 18

    A member of our wooden boat group unbolted his garage roof, had a crane lift the roof off, and the lifted the boat out. After the boat was out the roof was craned back in and bolted to its frame again. But then he was an engineer and as eccentric as they come. Just to let you know with the right garage it is possible!!

    Regards Neil

  25. #270
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    Default Re: Selway Fisher Clyde 18

    Neil- There's definitely some resourceful people out there- I have to say, I don't fancy taking the roof off !

    I made a bit of progress tonight. The centre wheelhouse frame is dry fitted. I need to be careful I don't glue anything that I wont be able to get out in one piece!

    I'm thinking I'll fit the base rails either side and epoxy them to the centre base rail and windscreen divider timbers so that I can bring the base frame off with it. I'll also glue the carlins and the windscreen sides that fit to the ply. After that I think it'll just be temporary bracing. I won't epoxy the fore and aft roof timbers to the aft frame , as I plan to bring the wheelhouse forward to remove it from the garage door frame. The fore and aft timbers can be braced to each other and the carlin, until its down.

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  26. #271
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    Default Re: Selway Fisher Clyde 18

    Good progress :-) Nice to see the shapes coming together.

    Yes, our boat/garage craner was very resourceful though also rather eccentric - when living out West he and his neighbour built themselves an aeroplane each - they used to go out & play dogfights above their properties, complete with white silk scarfs!! Sadly he is no longer with us, though it was a life well lived!!

    Regards Neil

  27. #272
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    Default Re: Selway Fisher Clyde 18

    I managed to glue up the windscreen frames tonight.

    I don't think there's much left to do- gunwales, backing pads for deck fittings, a dashboard, electrical cabinet, washboards. I might put some small rounded over strips on the front of the cockpit seats. After that I'm ready for preparing and painting the hull, I think, unless I've missed something!

    For the backing pads I have some bits and pieces left over- some 33mm meranti or 50mm douglas fir.

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  28. #273
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    Default Re: Selway Fisher Clyde 18

    Coming along nicely, biglad. What you are doing is not uncommon. When outside, the two pieces will come together with no problem.

  29. #274
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    Default Re: Selway Fisher Clyde 18

    Spent the last couple of evenings sorting out the washboard tracks. I thought a bit about going with the door, as shown on the plans, washboards, or a mix of the two.

    In the end I went for washboards- simple, easy to stow out the way and the wheelhouse is small enough without a door in the way. It'll be 3 boards, each one about 410mm high.
    I put the washboard tracks on the outside of the opening, as opposed to the inside, so as to not narrow the opening.

    It's all just little bits and pieces now... I'd love to see any neat fittings or bits and pieces that have been made that youre proud of/ make life easier.

    Once I've made the washboards, I think I'll make the dashboard next. Thinking to make it 150mm proud of the bulkhead, so as to keep room for the working as at the back of it. I won't box in the bottom of it so I can get access to the workings. On the other side of the bulkhead is where I'm going to put the electrical switch panel so I'll build out a frame c50mm and fit a hinged door to the front of this frame so I can access the wiring behind.

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  30. #275
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    Default Re: Selway Fisher Clyde 18

    Just wondering how easily you can get in & out of the cabin with your waterproofs on - reason I ask is that I do wonder if the opening at the top should extend a bit further forward. But I'm now guessing you've already tried it since its your boat and you do take care with the build.
    Its raining here again today so not happy.....................................

    Regards Neil

  31. #276
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    Default Re: Selway Fisher Clyde 18

    Good spot Neil. When I was deciding how far forward to put the timber at the opening I tried it as per the plans, and it was a bit tight, so moved it forward a bit to increase the opening. I've been in and out a lot, and never whacked my head. Hope it'll be ok..

    I've been making a little frame to go round the opening, and I'll make a 12mm ply lid, set into some timbers as a 'hat' to go on top of it.

    Not so good on the rain - be heading for your summer I imagine, but I'm sure that causes as many issues with your boat project!

  32. #277
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    Default Re: Selway Fisher Clyde 18

    I've been playing about with the cabin entrance options. The entrance is 600mm wide and about 1250mm high. I have cut 3 boards- roughly 400mm high. I could cut another board if 4 boards would be easier to store. They don't quite reach the top of the track - I still need to add the hardwood edges with rebate to keep water out.

    I need to decide what to do with the top. I'm leaning towards adding a hinge to the forward edge of it, and have a spring to hold it up so I don't whack my head off it, or I could do a sliding hatch. I don't have enough room to get it to slide all the way forward because of the windscreen, and because its not the biggest opening, I'm less keen to do this. Sliding out backwards could be an option, but will be awkward when I'm the cabin and trying to get out.

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  33. #278
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    Default Re: Selway Fisher Clyde 18

    It may save you a bit of work if you don't rebate the edges of the washboards.A bevel is quite sufficient and only needs to run downhill n the aft face.A folding stay on the hinged hatch might be helpful and you may feel a need to fit a hasp and staple to it,so the boat can be padlocked in your absence.If you do so,attach the staple to the hatch and the hast to the washboard-that way it falls open if you are in the boat and wanting to get out.A barrel bolt on the inside will keep the hatch closed while you remain on board and snoozing.

  34. #279
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    Default Re: Selway Fisher Clyde 18

    Thanks John, the bevel sounds a good timesaver. I'll epoxy coat the end grain to help a bit. I've cut the washboards to allow for hardwood end pieces, but I'm sure I've enough ply to cut one more the extra to allow for the extra so and I'll put it at the bottom- make it less obvious one is larger than the other 2.
    A folding stay sounds perfect- keep the lid up while I need it to stay.

    I'm going to start putting the backing pads on for the cleats etc. I'm thinking to put wedges on the cabin top, in front of the helm position to level up a place for the VHF and compass.

    I appreciate the advice- all suggestions are welcome!

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