Calendar Islands Yawl 16 in Chattanooga

[gray duck]

I would vote to wait on bottom. Let it cure so you can get a good sand. Warmer weather coming - better for painting etc. Feb and March seem like great sail making months if you have the indoor space.

[AJZimm]

Thanks! That's something to think about. My thought is simply protecting the runners. On my last build, I did not add the flat bar - just had runners. They got a little scrapped up, but my boat does not spend a lot of time in the water (unfortunately).

I’m a little late to this part of the discussion, but my experience with metal bars or strips on runners is, as ulav8r points out, that while it might protect the runners, it makes it extremely difficult to slide on rough surfaces. Aluminum is much softer than the concrete ramp you describe, so that the concrete simply digs in to the metal and wants to hold on. You’ll find it very hard work to drag the boat up that ramp.

I also have had good experience with UHMW strips held on with screws, as described in another comment. The stuff is very slippery, takes forever to wear away and is easy to replace.

If you don’t want to add UHMW strips, I would be inclined to add some screwed-on sacrificial wood strips to the glued-on runners. They would wear out, sure, but would be easy to replace.

[dalekidd]

I’m a little late to this part of the discussion, but my experience with metal bars or strips on runners is, as ulav8r points out, that while it might protect the runners, it makes it extremely difficult to slide on rough surfaces. Aluminum is much softer than the concrete ramp you describe, so that the concrete simply digs in to the metal and wants to hold on. You’ll find it very hard work to drag the boat up that ramp.

I also have had good experience with UHMW strips held on with screws, as described in another comment. The stuff is very slippery, takes forever to wear away and is easy to replace.

If you don’t want to add UHMW strips, I would be inclined to add some screwed-on sacrificial wood strips to the glued-on runners. They would wear out, sure, but would be easy to replace.

Not too late. I still have to decide on that. I'm consumed with the paint job at the moment. Thanks for your input!

[dalekidd]

I would vote to wait on bottom. Let it cure so you can get a good sand. Warmer weather coming - better for painting etc. Feb and March seem like great sail making months if you have the indoor space.

That's certainly the way I'm leaning.

[dalekidd]

I have made my decision on how to proceed. I'm going to go on to finishing the interior and building the main sail before finishing the hull. I'll come back to it when it should have had plenty of time to cure and I can get a good sanding job done on it.

That means it's time to flip the hull!

I've gone ahead and removed all but 2 of the molds. Here are pics of the interior fore and aft from the underside.

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You'll notice the support piece I attached to the midship frame to keep it stable until I can get a thwart in there.

I took frames 3 and 5 and made cradles out of them. I simply drew the inverse of the measurements onto the molds and cut them out. I'll reattach them to the strongback when I flip the hull.

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Here they are positioned on the hull. I'll need to get another piece of pipe covering foam.

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After several weeks of a lull, I'm back in business!

[dalekidd]

After weeks of delay due to my indecision on painting and a major project at church, I have finally turned my boat!!!! This means that I'll have to come back to the hull and paint it when the interior is done, but I can live with that. In fact, I'll probably move it outside at the time where I'll have more light.

My daughter, son-in-law, and grandson helped Sunday afternoon. They usually have dinner and spend the afternoon with us every Sunday, so I had a ready-made boat turning crew. The hull was not heavy at all. Two of us probably could have done it, but I wanted the extra two on the sides for insurance.

Here are a few pics. I'm probably going to have to lower the strongback before I actually get to the interior, otherwise it may be a strain to reach everything. I plan to do the gunwale, inwale, and rub strip first which will be easy to reach as is.

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Oh yeah, my wife was the photographer.

Now I just have to get back into the routine of working on it several nights a week.

[Hugh MacD]

Beauty! I love the lines on the CIY!

[dalekidd]

Other than turn the boat, I really haven't done anything on it for a month. It's been nice getting back to it the last several days. I decided to do the gunwales and inwales next to stiffen up the hull.

I've just gotten the first gunwale on. I decided to use some cedar that I got from a building next to our church that was due for demolition. I got quite a few board feet out of it. It has a few knots and nail holes, but, hey, it's free! I cut and scarfed them and the inwales on Thursday. I cut them on the table saw. I did have to run the power planer over the inwales to pare them down to the correct thickness. I clamped one gunwale on Friday evening to make sure it wouldn't break, left it in place until today and glued it up this evening. I cut light cardboard to get the angles for the stem end and transferred them to the end of the scarfed gunwale. It took a couple tries. I found that cutting both angles with the Japanese saw worked best. I sanded the round edge. Glue up went well and then I cleaned up the edges with a rag soaked in alcohol. I believe I used all my large clamps. As long as the epoxy cures well (I've never had a problem) I'll be pleased. The reason I mention this is because it took some clamping pressure to get that baby into place.

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BTW: I wound up cutting that knot out. I had plenty of length and it got in the way!

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Oh, in the month I've been "off" the epoxy thickened up in the pump. I tried heating it with a hair dryer. It did liquify, but the next morning it was thickened up again. I gave up and went ahead and ordered a new one.

[KenStocker]

Looking good! Sinful as it is, I'm jealous of your couple of nights a week! It's nice to see some consistent progress, even if it's not a lot. Also nice when you can score that free wood, my favorite species! Keep up the good work.

Ken

[gray duck]

the only time I've noticed raw epoxy being thick is with low temperatures. warming it up one day won't keep it liquid if it's cold the next. If your shop is cold you might want to bring your resin and hardner cans upstairs for the night if you're going to use them in the morning.

[dalekidd]

the only time I've noticed raw epoxy being thick is with low temperatures. warming it up one day won't keep it liquid if it's cold the next. If your shop is cold you might want to bring your resin and hardner cans upstairs for the night if you're going to use them in the morning.

I think this was more than cold. My work space probably is not getting much below 60 degrees right now. It had partially turned into a white goop. Heating the pump with a hair dryer "melted" the goop and it turned clear and was running freely; however, the next day it was back to white goop. A new pump cost me $7 and change and no lost work time.

[neil.henderson]

Congratulations on the turnover, always a memorable activity..... Your hull will stiffen a lot after you have the inwale + breathooks + knees + floors in - they make an enormous difference. And yes, glued clinker hulls are very light.

Keep up the good work - we are on holiday now but I should be able to restart my CY build next week.

Regards Neil

[dalekidd]

Congratulations on the turnover, always a memorable activity..... Your hull will stiffen a lot after you have the inwale + breathooks + knees + floors in - they make an enormous difference. And yes, glued clinker hulls are very light.

Keep up the good work - we are on holiday now but I should be able to restart my CY build next week.

Regards Neil

No doubt; however, the CIY has a "floating floor". I have been told that the center section is prone to flexing in big seas. I plan to lay down a layer of 8 oz glass there. The side seats are just bench style seats and, as drawn by the designer, do not extend all the way to the center thwart. This leaves room to sit on the floor with your back against the hull. That probably adds to the "flexibility" of the center of the hull.

[dalekidd]

Looking good! Sinful as it is, I'm jealous of your couple of nights a week! It's nice to see some consistent progress, even if it's not a lot. Also nice when you can score that free wood, my favorite species! Keep up the good work.

Ken

It may sound like a lot, but I'm actually averaging only about 6 hours a week (not counting the last month when it sat idle. A couple hours a night, sometimes early morning, and my wife doesn't feel so much like a boat builder's "widow". Oh, and I do not work on it on my one day off a week - that day is her's.

[dalekidd]

Gunwales and inwales done (almost). I will need to run the power planer over the top edge, run the router over the outer edges to give them a little round-over, and sand some (remember it is repurposed wood), but they're on!

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Pretty pleased with the way the gunwales are finished at the stem.

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Now it's on to the breasthook and quarterknees. I actually have a little bit of mahogany that I might use for them.

[neil.henderson]

A tip I learnt from a local boat builder is to round over the upper edge of the gunwale and bevel the underside, both using a trimmer router. This makes the gunwale look 'lighter' and it becomes part of the hull if that makes any sense. The routing is easiest done before gluing the gunwale on but never mind.....................

Have fun, boat is looking lovely

[KenStocker]

I really like what you've done with the gunwales where they meet the stem. Nice touch! Funny how such a little thing can set off the looks, very "craftsman" look.

Ken

[John Meachen]

A tip I learnt from a local boat builder is to round over the upper edge of the gunwale and bevel the underside, both using a trimmer router. This makes the gunwale look 'lighter' and it becomes part of the hull if that makes any sense. The routing is easiest done before gluing the gunwale on but never mind.....................

Have fun, boat is looking lovely

It also makes the boat less likely to get snarled up on quay heading or other obstacles as the tide goes up and down.

[dalekidd]

Work is going slowly right now. I have managed to cut out and glue up my breasthook. I wanted it to be pretty stout and I didn't have any hardwood suitable, so I used a piece of 2x8 I had lying around. I kinda like the way the grain turned out. It took me three tries to finally get a decent fit. It is a little off, especially around the inner stem. My inner stem was a bit rough and not symmetrical. Not sure why. As you can see there is some fill in there. I wasn't sure how I wanted to finish off that inner stem. Seems some leave it protruding a bit and others cut it off. I chose the latter. I think once I put the urethane over it, it'll all blend in well enough. I've also cut out my quarterknees. I had a small piece of mahogany that I used for them. It seems builders mix woods on their builds quite frequently. They fit nicely. I'll glue them up when I mix some epoxy for a bit bigger job. Might do that tonight.

2 aborted attemps

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Glued it up a little proud to be able to sand it down smoothly.

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I'm satisfied. I'll round off that edge a little before I call it done.

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Quarterknees. A lot of angles in these.

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There's gonna be a lot of fitting and measuring on this interior. But it's time to get after it!

[dalekidd]

I've gotten in some good time this week. I'm just about finished prepping the interior for fitting out. This has required a good bit of sanding, some epoxy work and some fiberglassing. Monday I hope to lay some fiberglass cloth in the aft section of the boat and then we'll be ready.

I laid a fiberglass strip down each of the first 4 joints. The first two are butt joints.

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I dressed up the lap joints where needed. I feel like I did a pretty good job of putting the right amount of epoxy in the lap joints. Most had good squeeze out, a few were starved. With the angle of the laps, it was easy to add epoxy.

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I also glued up my quarterknees.

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Monday I hope to lay some 8 oz. cloth in the aft section to strengthen the floor (per Clint's suggestion as well as Larchmont Jim).

Then I'll start fitting out the interior!

[dalekidd]

I've had a productive week. I laid down the fiberglass on the floor. I'll fill some of the weave later. Then I tackled the bulkheads. I made them early on according to Clint's dimensions. For some reason the forward one didn't fit well. I wound up using one of the molds, cutting it down and adding tabs to get the desired shape. That worked well. I did have to cut down the "horns" below the inwales but I don't think that will hurt. The aft bulkhead fit much better. I did do some fine tuning here and there but got it to fit in the proper position. I added fillets to the flotation side of the bulkheads, let them harden a bit and then came back and did the fillets on the opposite sides of each. I'm satisfied with the fit and like the way the fillets turned out.

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I'll probably do the bedlogs and trim on the trunk next and then the midship thwart.

[dalekidd]

I've been working on the forward flotation tank. I'm still fitting, framing, and figuring. This morning I decided to spend a few minutes looking at setup for the stern seat and tanks.

For some time I've been thinking that the rear bulkhead was going to create a very low seat, so I decided to check it. On the plans it is supposed to start on the same plane as the daggerboard trunk, so this morning I took a small, long board and checked. It is about 2,1/2" too low!

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How did that happen? I went and looked on the plans. I built the bulkhead way back near the start of the project. Going back to the plans there is no measurement for the height of the bulkhead where the seat is supposed to land. I mistakenly took a measurement from one of the landing surfaces. There's the source of the problem!

Fortunately this will be a relatively easy fix. Actually, I have the cut out part of the bulkhead. All I've go to do is cut an overlapping part, maybe 3" wide, that will go on the inside of the bulkhead and glue it in. This might wind up helping because there was supposed to be a 1/8" recessed part of the top edge of the bulkhead which will allow for the 1/8" difference in the lid thickness vs the side tank lids. When I cut it out, I messed that up. Now I can fix it too!

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[dalekidd]

Today was glue-up day. I had already cut out my bed logs, trunk rails, tank cleats, forward support beam and a strip of ply to fix my aft bulkhead. The cleats and beam had some bevels. The rails had a beveled notch each. I cut a little block of wood with an angle that matched the notch, set the table saw blade at the correct height and cut the notches with several passes over the blade. Here are a few pics. The last pic is of the tank top sitting in place. Got a couple things to do before gluing it in place.

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Funny: we had lunch today at a Chinese restaurant. My forture cookie read, "You have a project that is about to pick up momentum." My wife has a thing about my "projects". LOL

[KenStocker]

Nice work, moving right along!

Ken

[dalekidd]

400 hours! Another milestone passed last Friday. This is supposed to be a 500 hour build. Question is can I finish by 500? It will be close I think, though not a major consideration.

In the last week I've done several things. I cut what will be my homemade deck plate. Some advised against - others for. Since this is a budget build, I'm going to go with it. Now I have to find something to act as a gasket/seal. The tank top is not glued down yet. I have to seal the inside of the tank and glue the ring on the underside of the top first.

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I cut out and glued up my midship thwart. That's exciting to me.

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I also glued up the repair on the aft bulkhead and shaped up my stem head and midship tabs (correct term?).

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And then.... I sat in my boat for the first time! Whippee!!!! Feels good. A big boat, especially compared to my former boat Little Bit (see post #4).


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Mid-summer splash? Hopefully!

(never-mind the blue glasses. I bought a crazy color to remind me these stay in the workshop. LOL)

https://captnkid.blogspot.com/

[WI-Tom]

Very cool! I got to sail a CIY on Lake Superior for a bit--I know what you mean about it seeming like a big boat compared to my regular ride. Nice comfortably high freeboard, and still decent-ish rowing. Great sailing.

With ca. 100 hours left in your build, you can launch in a couple weeks, right?

Good luck with the rest of the build. I love that design, so it's neat to see another one coming together.

Edit to add: I've seen people use surgical tubing for gaskets on home-made hatches. I think I've heard that works well. Rout a groove in the hatch and inlay the tubing to make a seal.

Tom

[dalekidd]

Very cool! I got to sail a CIY on Lake Superior for a bit--I know what you mean about it seeming like a big boat compared to my regular ride. Nice comfortably high freeboard, and still decent-ish rowing. Great sailing.

With ca. 100 hours left in your build, you can launch in a couple weeks, right?

Good luck with the rest of the build. I love that design, so it's neat to see another one coming together.

Edit to add: I've seen people use surgical tubing for gaskets on home-made hatches. I think I've heard that works well. Rout a groove in the hatch and inlay the tubing to make a seal.

Tom

I read your article in Small Boats and have saved the link to the article. I've communicated with Jim about his boat, particularly about the mast length. I made mine to specs which means it will not fit inside the hull but will give better visibility. Clint has made a few minor adjustments to the design since that first build, most notably he hardened up the bilge a bit. Of course, I'm looking forward to getting it done, but it does take patience.

Thanks for the comments and the tip on the tubing!

[dalekidd]

I've moved on to the aft section of the boat. This is the most complicated part of the interior which consists of two flotation chambers and a lazarette. Once again, since I am building from plans and not the kit, I'm measuring every part for myself. This portion of the interior has a little slope to it. I scaled the rise from the plans and transferred that to a point on the transom. Then I took a measurement from that point to the bulkhead. I did use Clint's dimensions for the width of the lazarette lid and mizzen mast partner. Once they were cut, I was able to draw a good line across the transom.

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Then I was able to cut out what amounts to the frame for the 3 sections. I laid those in place and used a scrap of ply and tickler sticks to get the shape of my stern posts.

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I cut out the two stern posts and glued cleats on both sides of each. The trick here is that the lid of the lazarette and the lids of the tanks are from different ply, the one from 9 mm and the other two from 6 mm ply. So I had to be sure that I offset the two cleats 1/8".

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Last night I added the cleats for the two tanks. I used my 4' straight edge to make sure every cleat was on the same plane.

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In this picture the stern posts are just sitting in place. I'll glue them in next. I'd like to finish this part in the next several days. I think I'm going to wait on installing the mizzen mast step until I can get the boat out in the yard and make sure I get the rake correct, though I'll probably cut the hole in the partner now. It should be very simple to glue down the step in the correct position later.

[dalekidd]

The build as she stands now.

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None of the tank tops are glued down yet. I still have to prep the inside of the tanks and lazarette. You can see my homemade deck plates. The light colored ply are rings that will be glued on the underside of the tops and will give the plates a surface to rest upon. I'm going to put foam insulation on the underside of the plates to seal them (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08R9LF7BX...roduct_details). I also need to put 2-3 coats of urethane on the inside of the tanks then I'll glue down the tops.

Here's my outside bench while I was cutting out the rings. I rough cut the outer edge with a jig saw and the inside with the Rotozip. It took 3 bits to get it done. They snap off pretty easily.

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I've also begun the process of installing the side benches. I took three straight pieces of wood, laid two of them across the fore and aft benches to get the plane, then took the third, held it against the two and marked the location of the cleats that will hold up the side benches. Might be primitive but it works. I made sure I cut out a 9mm notch in my marking stick to allow for the thickness of the plywood for the benches.

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Hopefully get those side benches in within a week or so. Oh, yeah - gotta cut a hole in my transom for the boomkin. I need to do that before I glue down that tank top.

[dalekidd]

For starters I got the rings glued up on the deck hatches. I may actually try to recut the plates. That 1/8" gap seems a little big to me. Not crucial but I think I have some scraps that I could cut them from.

I continued work on the side benches and got them cut out along with doublers and spacers. A 6mm spacer and the 9mm seat along with the 9mm doubler, which extends just slightly beyond the edge of the seats, all gives a level sleeping platform when the floor is raised to sit even with the seats.

I used battens to mark the curve of the seats as well as guides to cut the curve. I used the curve of the seat to draw the curve of the doubler and spacer.

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The seats are not glued in yet.

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I'm nearing the end of the major "carpenter" work. I'm down to scraps of ply left. I have to cut out the seat supports, make the movable floor, and make my rub strips. After that it's just some small stuff: mast steps, mast partner, buttons for the deck plates and whatever else I happen to come up with.