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Thread: Calendar Islands Yawl 16 in Chattanooga

  1. #36
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    Default Re: Calendar Islands Yawl 16 in Chattanooga

    I just had to take a peek!

    I'm not quite ready to set up the molds, but I'm close enough that I just had to set them in place with clamps to get a feel for the boat. I've been working toward for this for almost 6 months.

    IMG_6198.jpg

    IMG_6199.jpg

  2. #37
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    Default Re: Calendar Islands Yawl 16 in Chattanooga

    Just caught up with your build Dale, coming along nicely.
    From a novice, rookie, first time, bet I can make mistakes nobody has even thought of yet builder, a couple of thoughts. I made my strong-back with a solid plywood top, as I had seen some others do. Probably overkill, but wanted it solid as it was on wheels on an uneven floor. So I wasn't going to get this not-too-skinny hind end under it anyway, let alone have access to the inside for cleanup. I found this not to be a problem. Though it became a tad more difficult after I rounded the bilge, not a big deal.

    I was reading my thread from beginning to end the other night, (which I would recommend as I came across good bits of advice I had forgotten), when I discovered this tidbit that was too late for me to apply.
    I found that my biggest problem in cleaning up squeeze-out was getting behind the clamps. The suggestion was that after cleaning up the majority with whatever stick you're using,(I bought mine from West Systems, and they can be cleaned off and used multiple times)to take a gloved finger and simply wipe off whatever is left. Seems like a "duh" kinda thing, but as I am cleaning up remaining globs with a heat gun, I now remember it often!

    Lookin' good, keep up the good work!

    Ken
    Last edited by KenStocker; 09-09-2021 at 08:54 AM.
    When the desire to learn is greater than the desire to win, the journey becomes the prize.

  3. #38
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    Default Re: Calendar Islands Yawl 16 in Chattanooga

    Quote Originally Posted by KenStocker View Post
    Just caught up with your build Dale, coming along nicely.
    From a novice, rookie, first time, bet I can make mistakes nobody has even thought of yet builder, a couple of thoughts. I made my strong-back with a solid plywood top, as I had seen some others do. Probably overkill, but wanted it solid as it was on wheels on an uneven floor. So I wasn't going to get this not-too-skinny hind end under it anyway, let alone have access to the inside for cleanup. I found this not to be a problem. Though it became a tad more difficult after I rounded the bilge, not a big deal.

    I was reading my thread from beginning to end the other night, (which I would recommend as I came across good bits of advice I had forgotten), when I discovered this tidbit that was too late for me to apply.
    I found that my biggest problem in cleaning up squeeze-out was getting behind the clamps. The suggestion was that after cleaning up the majority with whatever stick you're using,(I bought mine from West Systems, and they can be cleaned off and used multiple times)to take a gloved finger and simply wipe off whatever is left. Seems like a "duh" kinda thing, but as I am cleaning up remaining globs with a heat gun, I now remember it often!

    Lookin' good, keep up the good work!

    Ken
    Thanks, Ken. Good reminder. I plan to use a glove and I'll dip the tip of my finger in alcohol to try and get it as clean and smooth as possible. Plywood on top of the strongback would certainly stiffen it. And truly it wouldn't get in the way of most of the planks seeing most of them extend outside of the strongback. Someone has suggested cross-members. I have them on the legs already and will look at all options for additional support. This is an exciting part of the build, but I'd be lying if I didn't say I was nervous. Are my pieces going to fit? Will it be reasonably fair??? Epoxy can only do so much you know. LOL. Clint has all the dimensions for the planks, but I think I'm going to spile them, at least the first couple. If they match his dimensions, maybe I'll use them. We'll see. I do plan on using his layout for the keel plank to start.
    Last edited by dalekidd; 09-09-2021 at 06:44 PM.

  4. #39
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    Default Re: Calendar Islands Yawl 16 in Chattanooga

    Another milestone: just passed the 200 hours mark!

    A few days ago I cut out my first plank. I've been trying to figure out the best way to cut out the planks so that the edges are clean and fair. I've been hoping a batten and my Rotozip would supply the answer. Here's the result.

    IMG_6210.jpg

    IMG_6211.jpg

    Turned out alright. (It's gotta be alright cause I'm not buying more plywood). And I didn't even break a bit (might buy some more of those if needed)!!

    Yesterday I spent 5 hours double-checking and aligning my molds, another part of the project that concerned me (and yet one of the reasons to build a lapstrake boat - the challenge). I've been building things for 40 years, but seems I can never quite get things level, plumb or square - no matter how hard I try! We all know that this part of the build is very important. I already spent time double-checking the strongback to the best of my ability. After trying a method I saw elsewhere (i.e. drilling small holes to at the same point in each mold) I decided the best way to align the molds was with the keel plank. It had a straight line down the middle, so I marked the middle of each mold, tacked the keel plank to the middle of the transom and first mold, and then lined up the other 5 molds with that center line. I squared them to the strongback with a drywall square. To my eye it looks ok.

    IMG_6212.jpg

    Just hoping the other planks go on well. I think I'll be spiling them because I don't trust myself (a quarter off here, an eighth off there...) to be close enough to use Clint's dimensions. We'll see.

    The upcoming challenge is not only fitting the planks, but also planing the landings, cutting the gains and trying to keep everything fair. First, I'll attached the stem and bevel the transom, triple check my alignment, screw down my molds and glue down the keel plank. It will be glued to the transom, midship frame and stem. As of this moment, I plan on using battens to glue down my planks. I think that will give me my best chance of keeping the planking fair.

    The next steps will determine what kind of boat I'm going to have when she's done. Hey, it's all FUN!
    Last edited by dalekidd; 09-15-2021 at 11:42 PM.

  5. #40
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    Default Re: Calendar Islands Yawl 16 in Chattanooga

    I thought I recognized the name Calendar Island Yawl from somewhere - sure enough, it's another of Chase Small Craft's designs! I'm building his Caravelle, and currently in awe of the increase in complexity for this one. Just read through the whole thread & had a blast.

    Absolutely loved the idea of using a clear tube with water to check whether two far surfaces are level, very smart!

    Also thought the routing method for scarfing was really interesting. I had some trouble just today making the scarfs (went with 10:1, or 2 1/2" for 1/4" plywood, to be on the safe side) using a hand plane. It seems like that hydrotek meranti plywood really really doesn't like to be cut in certain directions. No trouble on thin edges, but other stuff is challenging. Routing might is definitely an alternative worth considering if I have to scarf more plywood. Although I did notice the my plane blade was concave now - I wonder if from working the plywood. Will be straightening and sharpening the blades soon.

    Also, is the Rotozip similar to a Dremel? They seem quite alike. Really smart using it along a batten for curved cuts! I can't figure out how a full on circular saw would follow curved batten and keep the same distance throughout. Or how it wouldn't get caught as it turns, for that matter!

    Looking forward to following this build to completion!
    ~ocean (they/them)

  6. #41
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    Default Re: Calendar Islands Yawl 16 in Chattanooga

    Quote Originally Posted by ocean View Post
    I thought I recognized the name Calendar Island Yawl from somewhere - sure enough, it's another of Chase Small Craft's designs! I'm building his Caravelle, and currently in awe of the increase in complexity for this one. Just read through the whole thread & had a blast.

    Absolutely loved the idea of using a clear tube with water to check whether two far surfaces are level, very smart!

    Also thought the routing method for scarfing was really interesting. I had some trouble just today making the scarfs (went with 10:1, or 2 1/2" for 1/4" plywood, to be on the safe side) using a hand plane. It seems like that hydrotek meranti plywood really really doesn't like to be cut in certain directions. No trouble on thin edges, but other stuff is challenging. Routing might is definitely an alternative worth considering if I have to scarf more plywood. Although I did notice the my plane blade was concave now - I wonder if from working the plywood. Will be straightening and sharpening the blades soon.

    Also, is the Rotozip similar to a Dremel? They seem quite alike. Really smart using it along a batten for curved cuts! I can't figure out how a full on circular saw would follow curved batten and keep the same distance throughout. Or how it wouldn't get caught as it turns, for that matter!

    Looking forward to following this build to completion!
    Hey, thanks for chiming in. Funny, I just watched part of your first video earlier today while eating supper. You got it - Clint Chase design. He specializes in kits, but they're too rich for me. If you noticed my SD 11 in post #4, that's very similar to your build only a bit smaller at 11'. I finished her in 2012. You might enjoy browsing this album: https://photos.google.com/album/AF1Q...jmXjj7FodtPnvG. I wanted to do a lapstrake before I stop building so I tackled the CIY.

    As far as I know the Rotozip is like a Dremel. Mine is pretty husky. It takes either a 1/8" or 1/4" bit. I cut the plank with the 1/8" bit. Post #25 has a good pic of the Rotozip. If the Rotozip had failed, or does fail, I plan to use a 3.5" Porter Cable saw with a batten. I'd only be able to cut on the outside of a curved batten with it.
    Last edited by dalekidd; 09-15-2021 at 11:45 PM.

  7. #42
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    Default Re: Calendar Islands Yawl 16 in Chattanooga

    “Look, mom. No clamps!”

    I’ve gone ahead and screwed the molds to the strong back. But the real reason for posting so quickly… frankly, I’m just about speechless. No, make that ecstatic!

    After screwing them all down with 3” #14 screws, I turned the lights out. Why did I do that? I turned my phone light on and propped it up against that 1/4” hole I drilled in the first mold. Guess what? It shined all the way through the 1/4” holes I drilled through the other molds!!!! In other words, those molds are lined up nearly perfectly!!! Now I didn’t say perfectly, but they’re pretty darned tootin’ close! Man, that makes me feel good. Yoo-hoo!

    Please forgive the exuberance. It might not be a big deal for you, but it is for me. Gives me hope this hull will go together decently.

    IMG_6213.jpg

  8. #43
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    Default Re: Calendar Islands Yawl 16 in Chattanooga

    Just starting reading this very interesting thread - you will have a lot of fun with building a clinker hull Dale. The sense of achievement when you see that hull come together is great - awhen you sail with a Sea Eagle overhead (as I did last week in my Gannet) it is unbeatable.

    One suggestion - I pull the keelson down and hold it in place using small right-angled brackets underneath the keelson which hold keelson and mould together temporarily during build. Also, I find it useful to be able to use clamps to pull the planks down temporarily during the dry fitting of planks, and sometimes also later during the gluing of planks - so I have "hollow" moulds made of pine that a clamp can catch on - if your moulds are made of sheets of board then you mght want some cleats screwed onto the moulds and then you can use the cleat & clamp.

    Good luck with build - all of my boats vary slightly from plans as my moulds and planks are probably at least 0-2mm out from design size so I don't worry too much as long as lines are fair which seems to hppen in my most recent build (below):-)
    IMG_0228.JPG

  9. #44
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    Default Re: Calendar Islands Yawl 16 in Chattanooga

    Quote Originally Posted by neil.henderson View Post
    Just starting reading this very interesting thread - you will have a lot of fun with building a clinker hull Dale. The sense of achievement when you see that hull come together is great - awhen you sail with a Sea Eagle overhead (as I did last week in my Gannet) it is unbeatable.

    One suggestion - I pull the keelson down and hold it in place using small right-angled brackets underneath the keelson which hold keelson and mould together temporarily during build. Also, I find it useful to be able to use clamps to pull the planks down temporarily during the dry fitting of planks, and sometimes also later during the gluing of planks - so I have "hollow" moulds made of pine that a clamp can catch on - if your moulds are made of sheets of board then you mght want some cleats screwed onto the moulds and then you can use the cleat & clamp.

    Good luck with build - all of my boats vary slightly from plans as my moulds and planks are probably at least 0-2mm out from design size so I don't worry too much as long as lines are fair which seems to hppen in my most recent build (below):-)
    Hey, Neil. You chimed in on post #21. BTW: I did take your suggestion and put two crossmembers on my strongback. And I like this current tip. I thought about cutting out the center of my molds but decided I wanted the stiffness of the full mold. Attaching cleats is a great idea. Thanks. If I have occasion, I'll certainly use it!

    Good luck on your new build. One reason I'm building the CIY is that I wanted to build a yawl too. Of course, it's a good bit smaller and lighter than the Caledonia Yawl and not a double ender.

    I read your thread on the Gannet build. Loved it!
    Last edited by dalekidd; 09-16-2021 at 10:07 AM.

  10. #45
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    Default Re: Calendar Islands Yawl 16 in Chattanooga

    Trust me Dale, no need to ask for forgiveness, we've all felt that fist-pumping "yes!" when it comes together right! And seeing those forms show the shape of the boat is exciting in and of itself. We're following along...keep those pics coming.

    Ken
    When the desire to learn is greater than the desire to win, the journey becomes the prize.

  11. #46
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    Default Re: Calendar Islands Yawl 16 in Chattanooga

    Clearly I need to be careful in this forum. I'm getting introduced to far too many new tools, and that's always a danger, hehehehehe. The link you posted to the google album didn't work, unfortunately! And very exciting news that the holes are lined up - hard work paying off no doubt!!
    ~ocean (they/them)

  12. #47
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    Default Re: Calendar Islands Yawl 16 in Chattanooga

    Quote Originally Posted by ocean View Post
    Clearly I need to be careful in this forum. I'm getting introduced to far too many new tools, and that's always a danger, hehehehehe. The link you posted to the google album didn't work, unfortunately! And very exciting news that the holes are lined up - hard work paying off no doubt!!
    Sorry about that link. I went back and made it viewable by anyone with the link, so try again.

  13. #48
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    Default Re: Calendar Islands Yawl 16 in Chattanooga

    Quote Originally Posted by dalekidd View Post
    Sorry about that link. I went back and made it viewable by anyone with the link, so try again.

    Just went through those pics. It seems to be a really similar design to the Caravelle, perhaps shorter & with a wider transom? It is always such a joy seeing a boat come together that way. I can recognize what stage I am in, and this helps me visualize what the build looks like from there. There's already so much to learn from those pictures, like using tape to exert pressure for gluing and getting a real good sense of the bird's mouth mast.

    I am just learning to use the table saw now. Seems to be how you cut the rabbets for the mast? Do you test the cuts out on scrap pieces to make sure you're getting the right angles & depths? I can't seem to find a satisfactory way to align things properly without having to test on scrap & see if it's right.

    Thank you for sharing. Definitely giving me the boost I need today!
    ~ocean (they/them)

  14. #49
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    Default Re: Calendar Islands Yawl 16 in Chattanooga

    Quote Originally Posted by ocean View Post
    Just went through those pics. It seems to be a really similar design to the Caravelle, perhaps shorter & with a wider transom? It is always such a joy seeing a boat come together that way. I can recognize what stage I am in, and this helps me visualize what the build looks like from there. There's already so much to learn from those pictures, like using tape to exert pressure for gluing and getting a real good sense of the bird's mouth mast.

    I am just learning to use the table saw now. Seems to be how you cut the rabbets for the mast? Do you test the cuts out on scrap pieces to make sure you're getting the right angles & depths? I can't seem to find a satisfactory way to align things properly without having to test on scrap & see if it's right.

    Thank you for sharing. Definitely giving me the boost I need today!
    Glad you enjoyed the album. In case you're interested, here is the album to my current build, the CIY 16. https://photos.app.goo.gl/LFtqocDwVCgk9YS58 and the address to my blog www.captnkid.blogspot.com which has a lot more detail than I'm posting here in the WBF. For the record, I am a rank amateur! Most of what I know I've learned here or browsing other boat building sites.

    Here is a good link re birdsmouth masts. https://www.duckworksmagazine.com/10...outh/index.htm

    Here is another: https://www.offcenterharbor.com/vide...rdsmouth-mast/
    You may have to pay a small fee for the offcenterharbor site, but they are well respected and recommended.

    When I cut my staves (the strips you use to make the mast) I do use some scraps to get dimensions right. The birdsmouth is cut simply with two 45 degree cuts. My table saw is cheap but I managed. A featherboard is very helpful if you can get or make one. If you noticed, my staves were far from perfect. Some of these guys mill to perfection!!! I just can't. I trust thickened epoxy to make up the difference. LOL!

    Here the pic of my setup for cutting staves on the SD 11.

    build95.jpg

    Here is someone else's.

    birdsmouth mast staves jig.jpg

    birdsmouth mast staves jig2.jpg

    And here's his mast glued up

    birdsmouth staves zip ties.jpg

    Notice how "clean" his cuts are!

    Hope this helps.
    Last edited by dalekidd; 09-17-2021 at 05:22 PM.

  15. #50
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    Default Re: Calendar Islands Yawl 16 in Chattanooga

    Oh geez. Is there a tablesaw under all that wood? And here I am using my fingers & pushtick only! It's been a learning progress for sure. That's the second time I've come across the term featherboard, and it's really starting to sound like I need to go see & understand what it is. I spend a lot of time puttering around trying to figure out exactly how the heck I'm supposed to get some cuts that are over 45 degrees.

    But it is very good to know that even cheap tablesaws will do, because that's what I have, and I can see you have made it work well! The mast really does look clean to my eyes! I've been avoiding epoxy and using PL MAX Premium instead, so if I end up going the bird's mouth mast way, it'll be really interesting to compare the two approaches!
    ~ocean (they/them)

  16. #51
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    Default Re: Calendar Islands Yawl 16 in Chattanooga

    It might be best to have a trial run with a short specimen before committing to a vital part of the boat.

  17. #52
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    Default Re: Calendar Islands Yawl 16 in Chattanooga

    Quote Originally Posted by ocean View Post
    Oh geez. Is there a tablesaw under all that wood? And here I am using my fingers & pushtick only! It's been a learning progress for sure. That's the second time I've come across the term featherboard, and it's really starting to sound like I need to go see & understand what it is. I spend a lot of time puttering around trying to figure out exactly how the heck I'm supposed to get some cuts that are over 45 degrees.

    But it is very good to know that even cheap tablesaws will do, because that's what I have, and I can see you have made it work well! The mast really does look clean to my eyes! I've been avoiding epoxy and using PL MAX Premium instead, so if I end up going the bird's mouth mast way, it'll be really interesting to compare the two approaches!
    Here are two featherboards - one store bought and the other shop-made.

    featherboard 1.jpg

    Shop_Made_Featherboard.jpg

    A featherboard holds your stock firmly against the guide.

    I don't have one and apparently neither does the other guy (unless he feels he can cut his staves without one - which he certainly did and certainly better than I did).

    My millwork left a lot to be desired. Here is my mast for the SD 11 after rough sanding. The gaps are the results of staves that were not completely uniform. (my staves for the CIY were a little better).

    build106.jpg

    This would be totally unacceptable to many. But after a little epoxy hardly noticable.

    build107.jpg

    Here's the nearest thing I have to a closeup of the mast when done.

    build138.jpg

    Blessings!
    Dale
    Last edited by dalekidd; 09-20-2021 at 01:47 PM.

  18. #53
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    Default Re: Calendar Islands Yawl 16 in Chattanooga

    I glued down the first plank tonight!

    There really wasn't a whole lot of work left to do after lining up the molds. You'll see the pics are very similar to my earlier post. I did take the time to cut out a 3" strip of scrap plywood to see how the garboard plank would land on the stem. I planed it down just a little bit more. I also sanded down the transom bevel to get a little bit of curve out of my planing. I also did my best to make sure the stem was in line with the molds. The only problem there was making sure it wasn't twisted in the middle. I think (hope) it's all lined up.

    IMG_6225.jpg

    IMG_6226.jpg

    One down. Ten to go!

  19. #54
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    Default Re: Calendar Islands Yawl 16 in Chattanooga

    The first plank was easy enough: symmetrical, a little play fore and aft. I used Clint's dimensions. Done. I even cut the daggerboard slot (I hope it's in the right place!).

    Time to move on to the garboard planks. Not quite as easy. Clint gives dimensions, but I don't trust my setup so I'm going to spile planks #2-11.

    The garboards are cut out. Results? Ok - not great but ok. I ended up with a 1/4" gap between the planks. Since these planks butt up edge to edge, it's a fairly easy "fix". I talked to Clint and he and I both feel like my spiling battens might be too thin and maybe too narrow. I had picked up a sheet of 3/16" flimsy ply somewhere. So I'm going to buy a sheet of 5 mm luan or maybe 1/4" and cut more battens.

    Here are a few pics of the first effort.

    My homemade "compass".

    IMG_6237.jpg

    Spiling battens tacked to molds

    IMG_6240.jpg

    My cutting platform. My "workshop" is around back under my house. The only place to work on 16' pieces of ply are on the driveway in the front. Lots of walking back and forth! Ugh!

    IMG_6242.jpg

    I wound up using my 3.5" Porter Cable saw rather than the Rotozip. It just didn't have the power to cut through two layers of 1/4" ply. The saw did much better as long as I kept the blade only as shallow as necessary.

    The results

    IMG_6253.jpg

    IMG_6252.jpg

    All in all not too bad. The outside edge of the plank is perfect. The edge that butts up against the other has that gap from halfway back all the way to the transom.

    Lots of work to do, but before long, she might look like a boat.

  20. #55
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    Default Re: Calendar Islands Yawl 16 in Chattanooga

    Thanks for all the info on your bird's mouth mast! I can see why you'd say it isn't perfect, but honestly I find the look of it after it's been done & finished up really really pleasing! Sometimes uniform wood doesn't look quite as pleasing as something with a few lines running up and down - at least to my eye! And the epoxy ought to have made it strong enough!

    It's a bummer about the 1/4" gap, but spiling also sounds like it's a skill that takes a while to really understand & master! I was glad to hear you managed to chat with Clint and figured out what might be happening. It's really interesting to me how opaque & hard to understand some of the things that happen while boat-building can be! There aren't that many pieces, but somehow when you try to put them together, and the angles & dimensions just play around with you.

    Can't wait to see more planks going on!
    ~ocean (they/them)

  21. #56
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    Default Re: Calendar Islands Yawl 16 in Chattanooga

    I have finished the garboard planks. I wound up having to fiddle with both of them. To help close that gap in the first one, I planed a little off the bow end of the plank. It requied a little filling in but the outside edge landed on the break nicely. The second plank was hitting the bow and stern just right but the curve was off slightly. I had some filling in to do on the inside and I trimmed a little off the outside. When all was said and done it looks pretty good.

    IMG_6375.jpg

    IMG_6376.jpg

    I also finished up the daggerboard trunk. I had done the sides but needed to add the spacers and glue it all up.

    IMG_6312.jpg

    IMG_6316.jpg

    I'm going to install the trunk before I glass the bottom of the hull. When I cut the glass for the slot, I'll fold the fabric over the joint to help seal it up.

    I also ran some battens to figure out where the strakes will hit the stem.

    IMG_6320.jpg

    The rest of the planking is going to be slow. Clint suggested I use a stiffer spiling batten, so I picked up a 5 mm piece of ply that I'm going to cut. I'll also take care that the joint between the two battens is secured to not allow any movement when I transfer measurements to my plywood. I'll be cutting the planks one at the time. I may cut them a little oversized to begin with. They can't be too far off. This part of the build has to be right. I think I'll be doing good to get the planking done by the new year.

  22. #57
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    Default Re: Calendar Islands Yawl 16 in Chattanooga

    Have you ever used a bottle jack while building a 15'6" boat? Well, I did tonight to help with gluing up my daggerboard trunk to the hull. I stuck a wedge of wood down the slot, clamped a couple small pieces of wood to my midship frame (both to help with aligning the trunk without getting epoxy all over everything - I removed them once it was snug), cut an appropriate length 2x2 and set it in place. I cinched it up with the jack, a clamp and one ratchet strap. A carpenter's square and tri-square helped make sure I was all square. I hung a weight from a piece of string through the slot to get the exact center so I'd know where to set the jack.

    IMG_6380.jpg

    IMG_6379.jpg

    That piece of wood that the strap is wrapped around was to take up some of the strap so that the ratchet was not in contact with the trunk.
    Last edited by dalekidd; 10-07-2021 at 07:40 AM.

  23. #58
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    Default Re: Calendar Islands Yawl 16 in Chattanooga

    Looking good Dale! It's a learning curve sure. Good for you, and you're doing a good job at adjusting as you go. Keep it up!

    Ken
    When the desire to learn is greater than the desire to win, the journey becomes the prize.

  24. #59
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    Default Re: Calendar Islands Yawl 16 in Chattanooga

    Yes, you'll find that you get very creative with blocks of timber, wedges, lines, pulleys, clamps etc.................... to make the joints happen. As long as it all ends up square and fair that's really all that matters - how you do it is up to the builder. I mistakenly glued my centreboard case in without checking for squeeze out all the way round - took weeks to fix the subsequent leaks. I'm sure you will, but check that squeeze out please :-)
    Have fun with the build - the planks from 2 or 3 onwards are a walk in the park compared to the early ones :-)

    Regards Neil

  25. #60
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
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    2,369

    Default Re: Calendar Islands Yawl 16 in Chattanooga

    Quote Originally Posted by neil.henderson View Post
    Yes, you'll find that you get very creative with blocks of timber, wedges, lines, pulleys, clamps etc.................... to make the joints happen. As long as it all ends up square and fair that's really all that matters - how you do it is up to the builder. I mistakenly glued my centreboard case in without checking for squeeze out all the way round - took weeks to fix the subsequent leaks. I'm sure you will, but check that squeeze out please :-)
    Have fun with the build - the planks from 2 or 3 onwards are a walk in the park compared to the early ones :-)

    Regards Neil
    Right on to all that, Neil. That big, fat faying surface around the trunk is the single most common source of leaks in amateur built boats...unless that trunk bottom is precision, square and flat and fair, or someone really lays down a thick coat of epoxy, there will be voids, count on it.

    Regarding the laps...the nice thing is the lap width can vary by +/- 1/8" down the boat and it is no problem, as long as the plank edge is fair and the join produces squeeze out.
    Clinton B. Chase
    Portland, Maine

    http://tinyurl.com/myboats

  26. #61
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    Oct 2009
    Location
    NW Georgia
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    184

    Default Re: Calendar Islands Yawl 16 in Chattanooga

    Quote Originally Posted by neil.henderson View Post
    Yes, you'll find that you get very creative with blocks of timber, wedges, lines, pulleys, clamps etc.................... to make the joints happen. As long as it all ends up square and fair that's really all that matters - how you do it is up to the builder. I mistakenly glued my centreboard case in without checking for squeeze out all the way round - took weeks to fix the subsequent leaks. I'm sure you will, but check that squeeze out please :-)
    Have fun with the build - the planks from 2 or 3 onwards are a walk in the park compared to the early ones :-)

    Regards Neil
    I remember reading about your leak. This is my third boat with a daggerboard/trunk setup. It has always been one of my biggest fear. I did check for squeeze out and I also rubbed epoxy into the joint inside and out. One reason I'm installing the trunk now is so that I can wrap fiberglass over the joint when I cover the bottom. I'll slit the fiberglass down the middle of the slot and fold it down over the joint. Fingers crossed! Thanks for the input! Much appreciated.
    Last edited by dalekidd; 10-08-2021 at 11:53 AM.

  27. #62
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    Oct 2009
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    NW Georgia
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    184

    Default Re: Calendar Islands Yawl 16 in Chattanooga

    Quote Originally Posted by Clinton B Chase View Post
    Right on to all that, Neil. That big, fat faying surface around the trunk is the single most common source of leaks in amateur built boats...unless that trunk bottom is precision, square and flat and fair, or someone really lays down a thick coat of epoxy, there will be voids, count on it.

    Regarding the laps...the nice thing is the lap width can vary by +/- 1/8" down the boat and it is no problem, as long as the plank edge is fair and the join produces squeeze out.
    My new biggest fear: leaking laps! You can be sure I'll be very liberal with the epoxy!!

  28. #63
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Location
    Boston, MA
    Posts
    164

    Default Re: Calendar Islands Yawl 16 in Chattanooga

    Quote Originally Posted by dalekidd View Post
    I remember reading about your leak. This is my third boat with a daggerboard/trunk setup. It has always been one of my biggest fear. I did check for squeeze out and I also rubbed epoxy into the joint inside and out. One reason I'm installing the trunk now is so that I can wrap fiberglass over the joint when I cover the bottom. I'll slit the fiberglass over the slot and fold it down over the joint. Fingers crossed! Thanks for the input! Much appreciated.
    It's too late now, as obviously you have installed it, but one way to tweak it that, I think, makes it easier to make that joint secure is to make the daggerboard case taller than necessary and make the slot fit the entire case (not just the daggerboard), and don't put reinforcing timber along the bottom (or wait until you have the case in to do that, or put it not along the very bottom). Then, rather than having the case sit on the bottom of the hull (which makes the joint recessed into the hull), drop the case straight through the hull. Then the joint is a T rather than an L -- both the top and bottom of the joint are pretty accessible, and you can cut the overlapping part off once it cures. You can (and should) still run glass along the joint and into the edge of the case, but the joint itself isn't recessed in (it's right on the outside of the hull), so is somewhat easier to access. This is the way that the centercase on the Apple 16 is designed, and it seemed easier to get a secure joint than the prior boat that I did (in that case, glued the case down to the hull and cut the slot afterwards with a router), and indeed how most centercases are installed...
    Daniel

    Building a Campion Apple 16.

  29. #64
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    Sep 2021
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    Pennsylvania, USA
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    37

    Default Re: Calendar Islands Yawl 16 in Chattanooga

    Wowsers, those garboard planks look *hard* to make. They're 4mm ply, right? I'm surprised they take that much curvature! Can't imagine what it's like putting that all into position, making sure everything fits, etc. It's already hard enough with a flat-bottomed boat!

    And really good to be reading about folks talking about daggerboard trunks here. Will be having to tackle those soon & just sitting here learning by osmosis
    ~ocean (they/them)

  30. #65
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    Jul 2018
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    Boston, MA
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    164

    Default Re: Calendar Islands Yawl 16 in Chattanooga

    Quote Originally Posted by ocean View Post
    Wowsers, those garboard planks look *hard* to make. They're 4mm ply, right? I'm surprised they take that much curvature! Can't imagine what it's like putting that all into position, making sure everything fits, etc. It's already hard enough with a flat-bottomed boat!

    And really good to be reading about folks talking about daggerboard trunks here. Will be having to tackle those soon & just sitting here learning by osmosis

    plywood bends pretty well. This is 6mm ply doing essentially a 90 degree turn on a similar sized boat.
    Daniel

    Building a Campion Apple 16.

  31. #66
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    NW Georgia
    Posts
    184

    Default Re: Calendar Islands Yawl 16 in Chattanooga

    Quote Originally Posted by ocean View Post
    Wowsers, those garboard planks look *hard* to make. They're 4mm ply, right? I'm surprised they take that much curvature! Can't imagine what it's like putting that all into position, making sure everything fits, etc. It's already hard enough with a flat-bottomed boat!

    And really good to be reading about folks talking about daggerboard trunks here. Will be having to tackle those soon & just sitting here learning by osmosis
    They made that curve surprisingly well. I am using both okoume and meranti, all 6mm. I chose okoume for the garboards because I was thinking it would make that curve a little easier than meranti. Not sure where I got this from, but I'm under the impression that meranti is a little more brittle. Could be wrong on that.

    I'm also using okoume for all the parts of the boat that will be bright. The meranti for all painted parts.

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