Circular saw adjustment

[bluedog225]

I know a guy who is trying to improve his carpentry. After using it for many, many years, he noticed the other day that the circular saw plate edge is not parallel to the blade face. And instead of cutting a thin line, he was ploughing a big trench. Not an issue he noticed on the 2x stock but more of a problem on 8’ cuts on sheets of plywood. Tough cutting and tough on batteries.

It’s an old Milwaukee. There does not seem to be an adjustment. I was thinking about taking a belt sander to the edge but thought I would check with the adults first.

Any ideas?

[sp_clark]

Got a model #?

How far off ‘parallel’ is it?

Ever dropped?

I’d check the baseplate mounting tabs, see if they can be shifted by using a steel drift & hammer to reshape them, move one or t’other end of base, so blade’s parallel to base’s edge.

[TerryLL]

How about some photos of the saw from every angle.

[StevenBauer]

Maybe time for a new saw. I got a new saw recently. I already have a corded tracksaw, a corded circular saw and a cordless circular saw. So why did I buy the new saw? Because it’s better than the other three. I bought a Makita XSH08. It’s a cordless circular saw that also fits a tracksaw track. My other tracksaw is less convenient because it needs a cord. It lives in the shop now. The corded saw had lots of power but it, too, needs a cord. The old cordless saw was a 20 volt dewalt, kind of wimpy. Not really enough power. The new saw is 36V, or as Makita says - 18x2. It takes 2 18v batteries and is super powerful. And precise. With a built in LED light so you can always see the line you are cutting. And fits the tracksaw tracks. The others all sit at home now and the new Makita comes to the job site every day.

[bluedog225]

Will get some photos next time I go out.

Dropped? Not that i recall. But it is an old friend. Been around a long time. I will have another look at the attach points.

Good thinking on getting a new saw that is track compatible. In hate to let this guy go. I’ve got a pretty good investment in Milwaukee 28 volt stuff.

[hawkeye54]

Maybe time for a new saw. I got a new saw recently. I already have a corded tracksaw, a corded circular saw and a cordless circular saw. So why did I buy the new saw? Because it’s better than the other three. I bought a Makita XSH08. It’s a cordless circular saw that also fits a tracksaw track. My other tracksaw is less convenient because it needs a cord. It lives in the shop now. The corded saw had lots of power but it, too, needs a cord. The old cordless saw was a 20 volt dewalt, kind of wimpy. Not really enough power. The new saw is 36V, or as Makita says - 18x2. It takes 2 18v batteries and is super powerful. And precise. With a built in LED light so you can always see the line you are cutting. And fits the tracksaw tracks. The others all sit at home now and the new Makita comes to the job site every day.

Steven, 'two' batteries ? - Does that saw 'seem heavy' ? How is it for freehand sawing ?



Rick

[Hugh MacD]

Would it be possible to fit an auxiliary sole plate with duly parallel edges, as with a router base? You might lose some cutting depth, but you could get it absolutely square.

[jpatrick]

Bluedog, there are only two reasons that the edge of the base plate is there: The first is to enable the saw to be guided along a straight edge for straight cutting. The second is simply because the base plate has to end "somewhere." You can't do anything about the second condition, but if the first isn't being met to your satisfaction, then change it. Either bash the blade into aligning with the edge or modify the edge. Your idea of grinding it with a belt sander is as good as any. There is little advantage to debating it for too long.

Jeff

[TerryLL]

From the photos on Amazon it looks like the connection between the motor and the base plate at the rear of the motor cannot be adjusted. But in the front, it appears that the base plate is connected via a 90-degree bracket that can be adjusted.

[Canoeyawl]

It is bent, probably dropped.

[Larks]

If it’s an "old friend", how are the bearings? Any wobble in the blade? If they’re perfectly OK and not causing or contributing to the misalignment then I’d suggest first get a new blade and then scribe a parallel line with a steel rule lined up against the blade and grind the edge of the plate back to it.

[StevenBauer]

Steven, 'two' batteries ? - Does that saw 'seem heavy' ? How is it for freehand sawing ?

Rick

It is heavy, Rick, but not as heavy as the worm drives those crazy Westerners frame with all the time. About as heavy as the also excellent 60v Dewalt cordless. Power, precision and an LED light!

[bluedog225]

Thanks for the tips. I will have a closer look when I get back out there.

[TerryLL]

Nothing wrong with a heavy worm drive saw. That weight is good at reducing kickbacks. They build upper arm strength and reduce unintentional abdominal incisions.

[Edward Pearson]

i’d probably true the edge or fit a wooden fence to it and true that.

Failing that, he could get a base and rail kit that take ordinary saws and give you a tracksaw. The bases fine adjust to track true. Loads of them now. Same rail system will fit a router on a new base plate too.

Tracksaws make for easy accurate work. If its nearing retirement, you could fit a West scarfer to the base plate and have a panel scarfer ready to go.

[sp_clark]

From the photos on Amazon....

How'dya know what saw he's dealing with?

You have a link you can post? I'm still following this thread but w/o an idea of what saw, any interest is diminishing over time.

[TerryLL]

How'dya know what saw he's dealing with?

You have a link you can post? I'm still following this thread but w/o an idea of what saw, any interest is diminishing over time.

See post #5. Bluedog says it's a 28-volt Milwaukee. I could be misreading the post. Still need to see some pics.

[David G]

Whatever fiddling you do - remember that the bottom of the base needs to stay 90 degrees to the blade plate. If nothing else, you might need to adjust your tilt indicatior.

[sp_clark]

See post #5. Bluedog says it's a 28-volt Milwaukee. I could be misreading the post. Still need to see some pics.

Saw (pun fully intended!) that but didn't think that was 'enuf' info to know exactly which saw he's pointing at. Read your post, did a search, came up with this:
0730-20.jpg
- which isn't too helpful but does show the base attachments. Prolly aluminum, riveted in place & easy to get knocked out of parallel to blade.

BUT if it's not their #0730-20 saw, maybe a better way to bring it back to factory alignment. Need pics of HIS saw, see?

[bluedog225]

I left the saw at the worksite. I am trying to get back up there later this week and get some more detail. The saw is the same (or similar to #19). Sounds like it is kosher to use any available means to get it back in line, including bending the attach points. That would seem easier than the belt sander, but I’m taking it just in case. I didn’t know trueing up my hand saw was something I needed to pay attention to until I started making these long cuts. Thanks again.

[sp_clark]

I didn’t know trueing up my hand saw was something I needed to pay attention to until I started making these long cuts.

On a table saw you’d be hard pressed NOT to notice any misalignment of parallel between blade and fence and/or guide slots. On a portable hand saw you’d only know from seeing what you described above. Most of the time your cuts are ‘freehand’ by eyeballing to a cut line. Put a straightedge down to run the base against though you’ll see quick whether your kerf’s running as thin as the blade was meant to give you.

If it turns out your base is bent or otherwise not ‘factory-true’ you might try contacting Milwaukee for a replacement. It’s possible they’ll send you a new one for a small sum... maybe even free after you wax lyrical over how much you’ve LOVED that saw all these years!!

[sp_clark]

Yeah but I’d have to believe any carpenter worth his pencil’s lead’d notice when his blade starts cutting wide kerfs, to say naught about the vibrations.

Why blades are considered ‘consumable’; nobody I know bothers having steel-tooth blades resharpened anymore, if they even still use ‘em for framing. Carbide’s worth the cost! Those get tossed when they lose a tooth or two.

[Pelirrojo]

I'm sure the saw is fixable however it may still be worth getting a newer one. There's a lot to be said for having a beater and a decent saw. That said neither need to be bought new, their are often great deals on circular saws on Craigslist, to the point that unless I'm looking for a very specific saw I won't buy new.

[oznabrag]

I left the saw at the worksite. I am trying to get back up there later this week and get some more detail. The saw is the same (or similar to #19). Sounds like it is kosher to use any available means to get it back in line, including bending the attach points. That would seem easier than the belt sander, but I’m taking it just in case. I didn’t know trueing up my hand saw was something I needed to pay attention to until I started making these long cuts. Thanks again.

Though I've trued many a saw, about 30 years ago I figured out that it's best not to beat them up in the first place.



I have found that the most important first step is to determine why it's out of whack to begin with.

In other words, precisely where and in what direction the supports of the shoe (what y'all are calling the base) are bent/misaligned/mangled.

If the shoe itself is twisted, you are in for a helluva adventure, and you may be well served to simply replace it.

Most often, the trouble comes down to a bent depth adjustment slider thingie. That curved piece with the slot down the middle, where you adjust the depth of cut.

The hinge at the front of the shoe is not a massive casting or anything heavily precise. It's just a hole with a pin through it when it gets right down to it, and that slotted, curved piece is beefy enough to displace the alignment if it's bent.

If you're lucky, you can remove that curved/slotted depth-adjustment thingie to straighten it out against a bench or the edge of a 2-by.

If not, it can get interesting.

[StevenBauer]

Looks like a new base is about $45.

https://www.ereplacementparts.com/sh...-p-136302.html

[Edward Pearson]

You American's should start making them like this again...oolalal! The style, the finish, the big ass wingnuts!