Thank you gentlemen for your enthusiasm, I really appreciate it.
As I said before, I have completely missed the entire DSLR evolution, and have a steep mountain to climb..(aperture? what are you talking about? Shutter speed? I don't have one? ISO? really?) but it has been so good to get back behind a viewfinder again, like a child let out of a cage. I promise to make a nuisance of myself in this regard more often here.
I have never been to Southern African countries before. It has been a revelation and an education, in just about everything. I met people from all walks of life, many walks I did not even know existed. All in all I did ok; 3 months, 11,000 km...many opportunities for things to go wrong, but I kept it all together; nothing broken, nothing stolen, no tragedies. A small accomplishment for me. I went with the remit of discovery, learning and photography.
The dynamic of adversity there is acute and in focus. Eat or be eaten. Kill or die. Walk to water or don't drink. An animal will only attempt to kill if it has the advantage, if it is not sure it will not make the attempt. Injury = certain death. Only go where you want if you are really sure... and be aware of what can kill you where you are going and be alert, constantly. This may seem melodrama for most, but an animal without back up will not move in, a tree without rain and ground water will not survive, and an idiot without nous nor skill soon loses their life. There is an acute competition for survival in Namibia. The animal behaviour I witnessed there was instructive; I watched for about 5 hours a play unfolding between a rhino family, two calves and two adult females, a hungry lioness, and a giraffe one night at a water hole. The calves were on the ground, at first I thought they had been injured by the lioness as they were motionless. The Lioness was 40 meters away, grunting for her pride to join her, a terrifying sound that made the very ground reverberate. Male rhino arrived, 'Hoorah!' though I, the tables have turned.. Advantage Rhino. He then drank and moved away uninterested in the fate of his offspring. Advantage once more to the lioness. Then one calf got up and appeared ok. Lioness kept calling. all the while a giraffe was standing off, waiting to drink for over 2 hours. It then moved in, and stood 20 meters from the lion facing it directly. Dis-advantage Lioness. The giraffe stood there for half an hour, ten meters tall and a kick that can kill...just staring directly at the lioness. She stopped grunting after a while and thought better of it. She retreated...but it could have been food for a month for her entire family had it gone the other way. A close call. A bird will not fly somewhere if does not need to, an antelope will only graze in open ground in a herd, a leopard will only rest in a place it can survey for a kill. There is no flim flam casual will.
And so it goes with the people there. No bones about it, there is real desperation. People also want to survive...NEED to survive. Some are directly out to survive off you, others are more subtle, others have given up completely, crushed by the constant effort of their lives and the way of the world. The cost of my camera is unimaginable wealth to most people there, given that even if they had a mind numbingly boring job, it would most likely only bring them in $50 a month. There were times of danger for me, but mostly if you are sensible you will never see the dark side, Inshallah. I met a few native Namibians who had seen the dark side, and believe me brothers and sisters, you don't want to know.
From another thread...
I pulled into a supermarket in Windhoek. Dozens of chancers trying it on... 'Can I have a dollar?' 'Hello Sir, look after your car 5 dollars, please Sir, 10 dollars?' Car park hyenas. They don't go for the Black guy sitting in 100,000 dollar BMW, they go for a white scruffy dude in a 10 bucks a day rental.
Guy rocks up, 'im hungry Sir, can you buy me some food please?' 'I don't want money...'. OK I say, I'll get you some food, just chill out.
I go to buy my shopping, and get him a sausage and chips from the deli, pay for my stuff and go back to the car. When I get to my car he's there with 5 buddies. All selling, all begging talking 9 to the dozen. Dude next to me in his BMW completely absorbed in his smartphone. I pack my stuff into the car amidst the jabber, and then give the man his dinner. He looks, at it, and says it is too cheap, too small. I'm furious, tell him to piss off, and try to take back the food. Ingrate. A scuffle later and the sausage and chips is all over the car park asphalt. He squats down and starts eating it off the car park looking at me and saying 'see, I even eat it off the road, I'm so poor and hungry.. Ass hole white guy.. .' I tell him that he's not the only one to have been poor, I was too, and squat down with him and eat off the floor with him. He is shocked. I pick up half a sausage and eat it AT him. He picks up some fries from a dirty spot and puts them in his mouth with mock relish..I rub my nasty morsel of sausage in an even more dirty spot.. And there we are in a dirty eat off, trying to get our messages across. I stood up to go to my car, telling him that when he asks for help, and somebody helps him, he should learn some manners. Just say thanks, no biggy.. One of his buddies who was trying to sell me some crap, agreed, in fact he would start to teach his ungrateful
friend some manners, he would start that very evening he told me. Could he just have 5 bucks to pay for his teaching lessons? Sheesh.
I also met many many 20 - 30 year olds who were clued up, honest business minded people who I trusted and thought highly of, and want to interact with again. Materials are hard to come by and logistics are difficult, but where there is a will there may be a way... the hunger to climb the ladder has bred a new generation of strivers who are clued up, communicative and open to ideas.
The sun is the most violent thing I came across. Imagine bombing down a road with the AC on full blast, and still getting burnt from the radiating heat coming off the windshield on the inside. It is fierce. Come 0900, if you want to find people or animals, look for shade. You cannot afford to not cover up, it will injure you. Most days it felt like a hammer, even under a hat. Even under a tarpaulin it can give you a headache at noon. Crazy.
The potential of the country is huge, starting with the people. Warm, funny, easy going and willing. Politically quite liberal and stable for now ( Nam Dollar is linked to the Rand.. who knows for how long these 2 countries will continue their solidarity), religiously free, open for business (there is a unused 100 tonne boat cradle and empty warehouse area waiting for someone to breathe life into it in Luderitz if anyone is interested), Namibia is an incredible kaleidoscope of people and landscapes, cultures languages and psychologies. I was only a tourist traveller.. I admit that I can only give a snapshot or two of the place, I am not a trans African with 20 years of adventures and understanding under my belt. Most business owners, entrepreneurs are white. Education for Namibians is sporadic, they have realistic dreams of a lesser ambition. Farming is not what I know as farming, it is basically keeping animals for tourists to look at, but there is some intensive crop farming where water is available. There is a serious table grape enterprise at Aussenkehr on the Orange river, which comes with its own social issues, but the finest blush grapes I ever tasted.
Namibia is heavily dependant on tourists, and during these times, there simply aren't any. It is sparse at the best of times, but seriously now, there's no one there at all. If you want something made, get it done there. It has next to zero covid, if you want a break in the heat, go and do it. I met a guy with a saw mill and 200 tonnes of mesquite stacked up around his property...cheap as chips. The seas are full, and largely untapped. You could pay double the average wage and buy loyalty, care and enthusiasm and still not feel it.
I am still digesting, but tempted to move to Luderitz; a great little town with friendly people and a small tight knit business community stuck out in the 8rse end of nowhere. Cooled by the sea breezes, plenty of wind, harbour, cheap buildings...Wonderful.
Thanks again to you all for your kind comments and time reading this thread.
Martin.