The believed abstraction of a 12 foot clinker dinghy.

[Mike1902]

Really nice to see the shape with the deck on Mike, she looks very sweet.

Thanks Greg.

IMG-8580.jpg

The decking now draws the eye to the sheer, promoting the sweep, especially toward the stern.
Very pleased.

Cheers,
Mike.

[John B]

I had a look at that Cox clunker of a 12ft clinker I have the other day.
Sure will look good when yer done.

[Mike1902]

I had a look at that Cox clunker of a 12ft clinker I have the other day.
Sure will look good when yer done.

Haha. John, when you are reincarnated, you will either come back as a Fox Terrier or a Blue Heeler... they both just never give up

[Alex1N]

Love that sheerline - the smooth deck really seems to bring it out. Very sweeping, all round. Looks fast even when stationary. Beautiful.

[RFNK]

As above, looks great Mike!

[Mike1902]

Love that sheerline - the smooth deck really seems to bring it out. Very sweeping, all round. Looks fast even when stationary. Beautiful.

As above, looks great Mike!

Thanks Alex, thanks Rick.
Looking forward to getting the deck permanently fixed into position.

IMG-8583.jpg

Three coats of epoxy have been rolled and tipped onto the underside areas that will be exposed to the elements.
But before the deck goes on, I've decided to beef up the chainplate support areas by placing blocking on the inside of the hull against the rib.
So nearly there.

Cheers,
Mike.

[Mike1902]

Started carving out a backing block for the chain plate support earlier this week, then decided I didn't like the chain plates themselves , so that's going on the back burner for now and I'm rethinking the whole chain plate palava.

IMG-8590.jpgIMG-8620.jpg

These are they. That was the intended position.
Looking at moving the stay inboard a little off the gunnel and keeping an unbroken sheer line.

Latest idea is using spectra laced through the rib and knee, then coming up through the deck blocking with a bulls eye just aft of the knee above the deck line.
Thoughts and opinions welcome.

[Mike1902]

The foredeck went on today after a bit of prep.

The epoxy coatings that had been applied were sanded with 120 grit and a coat of 207 epoxy was applied.
This was to create a smooth and glossy finish that would be easy to clean with the squirt of a hose.

IMG-8601.jpgIMG-8605.jpg

The shapes of the exposed areas were then taped off and the rest given a sand with 80 grit to help with the key. The sanded areas were then vacuumed, wiped with a towel, then wiped again using a tack cloth to remove dust.
The edges of the deck frames, king plank and inwhales were taped up as well.
The tape was applied in one length per opening and then left with a tab for ease of removal.

IMG-8613.jpg

In the above image the portside has been fixed. The 213 epoxy mix has been applied with a serrated squeegee in the larger areas and with a small brush along the narrow deck framing.
Both mating surfaces were pre primed with neat epoxy and the excess removed with paper towels before the gluing mix was applied.
The ply was screwed down with 12mm long 316 SS screws every 50mm (2") around the perimeter and every 100mm along each support frame.
Once this was complete, the dinghy was lifted up with the block and tackle, then inverted to gain access to the forward compartment.

IMG-8616.jpgIMG-8619.jpg

Using a chisel stick, the squeezed epoxy was forced into any gaps, then the excess was removed with the stick and the tape removed leaving a clean finish.
As mentioned before, this forward area can now be squirted with a hose and easily cleaned without the concern of fresh water sitting in any crevasses or voids.

[Alex1N]

Fantastic! 20/10. I love to see proper epoxy work. Well done, that’s superb.

[Max F]

To bad that normally nobody looks under the deck.
About the cchain plate question.
Why not using a as long as possible bolt with eye epoxied into the knee? Should be pretty strong.

Cheers Max

[Mike1902]

Fantastic! 20/10. I love to see proper epoxy work. Well done, that’s superb.

Thanks Alex. The internet is a good tutor

To bad that normally nobody looks under the deck.
About the cchain plate question.
Why not using a as long as possible bolt with eye epoxied into the knee? Should be pretty strong.

Cheers Max

Hi Max,

You are right, no one will see it but the mold spores will have a hard time hanging onto something.

Great idea about the chain plates.
I have come across these bronze eye bolts, 8, 10, 13 mm dia by 102mm long, just have to check the inside diameter of that eye.
eye bolt.jpg
Bed them into the knee with 404 epoxy mix and it will then spread the load along the rib.
Thanks for that, another option to consider.

Cheers,
Mike.

[Mike1902]

Managed to remove 95% of the screws before filling holes, and low spots with 417/epoxy filler mix.
Drilled the heads off the remaining screws to create a deeper hole.
The king plank created a flat spot in a curved deck due to its width but nothing a skim of filler couldn't fix.

IMG-8622 (1).jpg
This was completed last week before heading off on a 22 nautical mile race on the mighty Rawhiti to Waiheke Island.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aBe4bs2Vo70

Rawhiti's new genoa is about 1200 square feet, getting us along here at 9.5 knots in about 12 knots of breeze.
More detail in the Antipodean Boats Connection thread, People and Places.

Then back to reality with an orbital sander and fairing board.

IMG-8634.jpg
Still a little tweaking to do but generally fair.

The outboard edges were then given a radius with a 3/16 round over bit followed by a little sanding to create an even curve.

IMG-8644.jpgIMG-8642.jpg

The right image above shows an example of how the Dynel will drape over the side and how the rub rail will sit against it covering the edge of the Dynel.
The radius of the deck will sit slightly higher than the top edge of the rub rail when finished.

[Alex1N]

Comparing what she looked like 28 pages ago - there’s no comparison! Fantastic job, Mike! Cheers, Alex.

[Mike1902]

Comparing what she looked like 28 pages ago - there’s no comparison! Fantastic job, Mike! Cheers, Alex.

Thanks Alex.
There have been a few changes but it is still a 50/60 year old hull that has a few kinks, which I shall explain next.

Cheers,
Mike.


The kink that I am talking about is more of a flat spot combined with a bulge in the starboard bow section within the first three feet of the stem involving the top four strakes.
This bulge has always been there and more than likely built into the boat when first constructed.
The boat profile in plan section also has a flatter curve along the starboard bow.

IMG-8647.jpgIMG-8650.jpg

To measure the difference between the port and starboard strakes the boat was set up level athwartships.
Two levels in adjacent planes were then set up at a measured distance from the stem.
As can be seen in the left image, the starboard strakes are just about parallel to the level.
The right image is of the port strakes, this shows the increase in distance from the level as they curve under the boat.

I was going to let it go but...well...you know...it does look a bit odd.

I will build out the gunnel to match the curve of the port side, about 5/8 "at the deepest point.
This will then allow strips of ply/laminated Kauri strips to be glued to the adjacent strake that will then be faired into shape, these will then diminish as they drop to the lower strakes.

[Max F]

Nice to see the deck on.
You must be longing to go sailing with it by now.
I would at least.
I see clearly that you are another victim of the well known boatbuilders extreme symmetry obsession diseas.
Me too hahahaha. Can´t fight it.
In such occurence I keep telling me that nobody will ever notice that difference once the little ship is in the water,
and,
once it is heeling, all symmetry in the water is gone anyway.
this doesn´t help though.

Cheers
Max

[Mike1902]

Nice to see the deck on.
You must be longing to go sailing with it by now.
I would at least.
I see clearly that you are another victim of the well known boatbuilders extreme symmetry obsession diseas.
Me too hahahaha. Can´t fight it.
In such occurence I keep telling me that nobody will ever notice that difference once the little ship is in the water,
and,
once it is heeling, all symmetry in the water is gone anyway.
this doesn´t help though.

Cheers
Max

Hi Max,

Yes, the deck certainly changes the perspective, draws the eye to the cockpit area and highlights the sheer.
Now deciding whether to have coamings or not. There have been a few threads on that subject, lots of variables to consider.
As far as sailing goes, I'm fortunate to have other boats to satisfy that need, this boat, for the moment, caters to the creative and practical aspects.

Extreme symmetry disease, a victim indeed.
Had talked myself out of doing anything about that flat spot months/years ago, then comes the time to fair the hull and...well...you know.
Would have been far easier to do something about it before the deck went of course but hey there's more than one way to skin the ol' cat.
Details in the next post.

Cheers,
Mike.

[Mike1902]

The first step to symmetry was to make a pattern of the starboard gunnel profile and draw it onto the laminating table.
The port profile was then taken and laid over a common point at each end of the starboard profile.
This indicated the degree of thickness along the profile curve to which the laminates could be applied.

IMG-8653.jpg

In the image above the laminates have been laid out to cover the necessary thicknesses required along the curve.
The right side of the pattern (centre) is the port profile.
The right MDF pattern has the sheer line drawn onto it, which is needed to establish the stock widths required for the laminates.

IMG-8654.jpg
The laminated strip was then screwed against the outwale and the sheer line drawn along it.
Upon removal, the sheer was then cut out on the band saw. A parallel line was then drawn the width of the outwhale and cut again.
The whole shebang was then epoxied onto the boat.

After planing and sanding flush to the deck the port profile was drawn along the top of the lamination.

IMG-8657.jpg

The majority of the waste wood was removed by plane, then a belt sander, followed by a fairing board with 80# sand paper.
The new outwale was slightly undercut at the bottom to fair into the curve of the bow.

IMG-8666.jpgIMG-8672.jpg

Profile symmetry obtained. On the road to recovery
Strakes next.

The central area of the right photo above highlights the flat spot from the gunnel down to the bottom of the forth strake.

[RFNK]

Looking fantastic Mike!

[Alex1N]

Looking much better - from the top! It’s interesting how the original (plan) deckline makes the new outwale look rather fatter than it should be, when it fact it isn’t - an optical illusion. I had to squint to remove the old line and get a better view.

Cheers,
Alex.

[Mike1902]

Looking fantastic Mike!

Thanks Rick. It's getting there.

Looking much better - from the top! It’s interesting how the original (plan) deckline makes the new outwale look rather fatter than it should be, when it fact it isn’t - an optical illusion. I had to squint to remove the old line and get a better view.

Cheers,
Alex.

Thanks Alex.
Maybe I should squint more, it would hide the defects and save a bit of work.

Cheers,
Mike.

[Mike1902]

The dinghy was inverted to build a frame over the area that needs attention.
This consisted of battens set out along both sides at equidistant points.
The battens were plumbed fore an' aft and athwartships, another piece was then laid over the keel and attached to the tops of the battens and the keel to hold all steady.

IMG-8691.jpgIMG-8687.jpg

A square was used to transfer the edge of the strake land height to the batten and the gap measurement taken at each of theses points along the top four strakes.

IMG-8694.jpg

These measurements now indicate the differences between the port and starboard strakes highlighting the areas that need building up along the starboard bow.

[Jase]

sheesh Mike, stop you fussing and sail the damn thing :P

[Mike1902]

sheesh Mike, stop you fussing and sail the damn thing :P

You haven't got time to be tapping on a keyboard Jason, you have at least a dozen boats of your own to fix

Mr Fussy.jpg

Now where is my coffee mug.

[John B]

Yet again I was thinking of this thread as I gazed upwards at Mikes next project.
Yes, now she might be a badly designed , broken backed, hogged, spavined ,ill laid out , roughly built boar of an ugly thing which weighs more than something boldly built but twice her size...., but thats nothing to our Eastern woody boater builder.
Just let me know when you want to see a picture, we could post appropriate warnings and disclaimers, apply an R 46 rating so the youngsters dont get disillusioned. etc.

[Mike1902]

Yet again I was thinking of this thread as I gazed upwards at Mikes next project.
Yes, now she might be a badly designed , broken backed, hogged, spavined ,ill laid out , roughly built boar of an ugly thing which weighs more than something boldly built but twice her size...., but thats nothing to our Eastern woody boater builder.
Just let me know when you want to see a picture, we could post appropriate warnings and disclaimers, apply an R 46 rating so the youngsters dont get disillusioned. etc.

Cox Dinghy.jpg

This image has haunted me since post #546.
Think Hunchback of Notre Dame swinging in the belfry
Think Zeros coming out of the sun
Think Vampires hanging in the rafters
Think...can't think now...have to go and have a lie down

[John B]

Oh yeah , I did that already. Well I looked again , shuddered, and since it was nauseating my cortex thought I would remind the world that
1. all old people are not necessarily nice people and
2. The same goes for old clinker built boats.
Ps , she doesn't really have a broken back.

[KenStocker]

Mike is one of those guys that, about the time you think you're a fairly decent woodworker, comes along and makes you feel like some Neandrathal trying to carve out a boat with a big club. But his creativity and skill sure is fun to watch!

Ken

[RFNK]

Yet again I was thinking of this thread as I gazed upwards at Mikes next project.
Yes, now she might be a badly designed , broken backed, hogged, spavined ,ill laid out , roughly built boar of an ugly thing which weighs more than something boldly built but twice her size...., but thats nothing to our Eastern woody boater builder.
Just let me know when you want to see a picture, we could post appropriate warnings and disclaimers, apply an R 46 rating so the youngsters dont get disillusioned. etc.

Spill it JB!!

[John B]

Spill it JB!!

Mike found the photo I'd evidently put up before to terrorise the sensibilities, Rick.
The story ( kept short) is a very old friend built it, retired it, asked me to take it when he went into a home. A white elephant, literally and figuratively.

[Mike1902]

Mike is one of those guys that, about the time you think you're a fairly decent woodworker, comes along and makes you feel like some Neandrathal trying to carve out a boat with a big club. But his creativity and skill sure is fun to watch!

Ken

Thanks Ken, glad you are enjoying the watch.

Cheers,
Mike.

Mike found the photo I'd evidently put up before to terrorise the sensibilities, Rick.
The story ( kept short) is a very old friend built it, retired it, asked me to take it when he went into a home. A white elephant, literally and figuratively.

Could be a diamond in the rough...unfortunately I've sold all my diamond laser cutting equipment

[RFNK]

Mike found the photo I'd evidently put up before to terrorise the sensibilities, Rick.
The story ( kept short) is a very old friend built it, retired it, asked me to take it when he went into a home. A white elephant, literally and figuratively.

Ah, note to self - wait until awake to post on WBF

[Mike1902]

So , back to reality.

The laminated build of the sheer strake at the bow has been completed and mostly faired, I say mostly, as the final fairing will happen when all the laminations above that are completed.
The laminated Kauri pieces will give the edges of each strake a crisper line when painted. Sanding of the strakes over the years has rounded off the edges and reduced the thickness in a few areas.

IMG-8706.jpgIMG-8702.jpg

The right image highlights the flat spot in profile from the second to fourth strake.
The laminations will shorten in length as they progress upwards.

The lamination for each strake is made separately on a form that has the same curve as the strake.
Once cured the piece is then glued to the boat and then faired to the required thickness.

[jonesmatt1957]

The first step to symmetry was to make a pattern of the starboard gunnel profile and draw it onto the laminating table.
The port profile was then taken and laid over a common point at each end of the starboard profile.
This indicated the degree of thickness along the profile curve to which the laminates could be applied.

IMG-8653.jpg

In the image above the laminates have been laid out to cover the necessary thicknesses required along the curve.
The right side of the pattern (centre) is the port profile.
The right MDF pattern has the sheer line drawn onto it, which is needed to establish the stock widths required for the laminates.

IMG-8654.jpg
The laminated strip was then screwed against the outwale and the sheer line drawn along it.
Upon removal, the sheer was then cut out on the band saw. A parallel line was then drawn the width of the outwhale and cut again.
The whole shebang was then epoxied onto the boat.

After planing and sanding flush to the deck the port profile was drawn along the top of the lamination.

IMG-8657.jpg

The majority of the waste wood was removed by plane, then a belt sander, followed by a fairing board with 80# sand paper.
The new outwale was slightly undercut at the bottom to fair into the curve of the bow.

IMG-8666.jpgIMG-8672.jpg

Profile symmetry obtained. On the road to recovery
Strakes next.

The central area of the right photo above highlights the flat spot from the gunnel down to the bottom of the forth strake.

Wow! I feel all of that.

[Mike1902]

Wow! I feel all of that.

I hope in a good way, Matt

A little more to come in the next post.

Cheers,
Mike.

[Mike1902]

The second strake has been shaped to fit and glued.
I laminated the three pieces needed around the form on the laminating table.
This curved piece was then tapered to the required thicknesses on the horizontal belt sander before final fixing.

IMG-8708.jpgIMG-8716.jpgIMG-8717.jpg

The bottom edge of the sheer strake will have a secondary rubbing strake attached along it's length.

The third strake has been glued up over a plastic barrier on the dinghy itself, using it as a form, as there is a little more twist involved plus it is only made up of two pieces.
This will then be removed and tapered up on the belt sander before permanent fixing. Some final shaping will happen after that.

IMG-8720.jpgIMG-8721.jpg

Merry Christmas, Happy Holidays everyone.

Cheers,
Mike.