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Thread: Cove and bead router bits for 1/2" thick strips.

  1. #1
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    Default Cove and bead router bits for 1/2" thick strips.

    Anyone have a source for router bits to cut the cove and bead in 1/2" thick cedar strips? I'll need them when I build the next boat. I'd want 1/4" shank to fit my router.
    Thanks for any input.
    I was born on a wooden boat that I built myself.

  2. #2
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    Default Re: Cove and bead router bits for 1/2" thick strips.

    I got mine from Rockler, but it’s 1/2” shaft.
    If you can’t find one with a 1/4” shaft maybe get a 1/2” collet for your router?
    Fight Entropy, build a wooden boat!

  3. #3
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    Default Re: Cove and bead router bits for 1/2" thick strips.

    Do try to get a 1/2" collet.
    When one of those 1/4" jobs snaps off, flys and hits you in the gronicles, it will be the last one...
    Don't ask how I know this

  4. #4
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    Default Re: Cove and bead router bits for 1/2" thick strips.

    Do yourself a favour and get a 1/2” router (even 2nd hand) and insert in a table however basic. Use a feather board. Especially if you want hundreds of meters of strips.

  5. #5
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    Default Re: Cove and bead router bits for 1/2" thick strips.

    Quote Originally Posted by Rich Jones View Post
    Anyone have a source for router bits to cut the cove and bead in 1/2" thick cedar strips? I'll need them when I build the next boat. I'd want 1/4" shank to fit my router.
    Thanks for any input.
    Jericho Bay Lobster Skiff?

  6. #6
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    Default Re: Cove and bead router bits for 1/2" thick strips.

    Quote Originally Posted by cbcc View Post
    Jericho Bay Lobster Skiff?
    Yep. Just have to convince myself to build the boat.
    I was born on a wooden boat that I built myself.

  7. #7
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    Default Re: Cove and bead router bits for 1/2" thick strips.

    Nice boat, Rich... do it!

  8. #8
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    Default Re: Cove and bead router bits for 1/2" thick strips.

    C&B is not a heavy cut, so in theory you could get away with a 1/4" shank. If you could even find 1/2" C&B bits with that shank. But I wouldn't if I could at all manage stepping up to a 1/2". If your router is so small that it doesn't offer a 1/2" collet option... it's likely too small to do that sort of production run without frying.
    David G
    Harbor Woodworks
    https://www.facebook.com/HarborWoodworks/

    "It was a Sunday morning and Goddard gave thanks that there were still places where one could worship in temples not made by human hands." -- L. F. Herreshoff (The Compleat Cruiser)

  9. #9
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    Default Re: Cove and bead router bits for 1/2" thick strips.

    Better to just avoid bead and cove.
    IMHO.

    Are you going to do a clear finish or paint?

  10. #10
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    Padanaram, MA USA
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    Default Re: Cove and bead router bits for 1/2" thick strips.

    Having recently spent some hours pushing strips through a router table, I was glad that the router was variable speed and could be slowed down. Didnít affect the cutting, but the lower sound level made the process less tiring.

    +1 for 1/2Ē shank dia. Gronicles are precious.

  11. #11
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    Default Re: Cove and bead router bits for 1/2" thick strips.

    Quote Originally Posted by upchurchmr View Post
    Better to just avoid bead and cove.
    IMHO.

    Are you going to do a clear finish or paint?
    I built my 18' fantail launch without bead and cove and all worked out well. But, everyone seems to rave about it's benefits in reducing fairing time. We'll see.
    I was born on a wooden boat that I built myself.

  12. #12
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    Default Re: Cove and bead router bits for 1/2" thick strips.

    I built a kayak bead and cove.
    And another square edged.

    I don't think there is much difference, except for the repairs on the B&C on the busted edges of the cove pieces.

    There is much more difference in doing a clear finish verses paint (much less time).

    Have you seen the square edged method where you do not fit each plank to the next?
    You just leave any open gaps while nailing or stapling (smaller planks that what you want) to the forms.
    Then you brush in unfilled epoxy into the gaps, let it soak, then push in filled epoxy on the gap.
    Fair, then do your surface coat/ treatment (epoxy/glass???).
    https://www.thomassondesign.com/en/catalog/my-kayaks
    Building page: https://www.thomassondesign.com/en/b.../hull-and-deck See the Planking paragraph.

    I did a test for a kayak this way. Ridiculously faster. Just as easy to fair. Might not make a desirable surface for clear finish because each gap shows as a dark line, and the width (therefore darkness) varies for sections with different curvature.

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