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Thread: Duck Trap Wherry

  1. #71
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    Default Re: Duck Trap Wherry

    Do you know that the table was glued with waterproof glue?

  2. #72
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    Default Re: Duck Trap Wherry

    Judging from the colour of the glue on the underside I'm guessing it was hide glue.

  3. #73
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    Default Re: Duck Trap Wherry

    Hope that table top was glued up with waterproof glue.

  4. #74
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    Default Re: Duck Trap Wherry

    Dad bought an Oughtred Gannet with a solid wood transom. I think it was Elm. After a few years the joints had opened up a bit. I can't remember how it was joined now (I think it was just edge glued) but when choosing wood, beside appearance and physical properties etc, I'd want the planks running horizontal and use 'vertical grain/ quarter sawn stock' so the movement with changes in moisture will be minimal. Transoms can get sun on them which heats them up. Elm does move alot though, as hardwoods tend to but elm more than most. So i'd stabilise your wood first in your garage before planing it down. Some woods like iroko also change shape after you cut it out (alot of internal stresses) so I'd bear down on the finished size carefully if it's a wood that does that. The non splitting nature of elm means plank fastenings hold securely into the end grain and it was often specified for transom's in traditional construction.

    I'd then consider the joints and you should be doing more than simple edge gluing on a transom. Either tongue and groove or using a durable plywood plywood spline between the planks. I think this is regarded as stronger as it avoids the tongues potentiall snapping off. You'll need a plough plane and a rebate plane if you want to avoid the dust and noise of the router. Dowels too would be an option. I've seen an outer veneer or plywood face glued to the aft surface of a planked transom as well to hold the boards together and show a beautifull grain pattern.

    The Duck Trap's transom is relatively small though so I guess movement overall in absolute terms will be less than otherwise. On my Shearwater I got the grain (Sapeli plywood) to swirl around my rudder fittings in a pleasing fashion, so it can worth thinking about that (and where the name is going) too so you get the full effect of any patternation when you're done and an A star. if going for solid varnished transom I'd also want the colours to match carefully otherwise that really shows up. Bookmatching is a thing but depends on your resawing capability. The reds of mahoganies can fade, so I might think about staining for uniformity and darkness for a moment.

    With a lapstrake boat your going to be getting down and dirty with all the different plank bevels on the transom, so I'd want to avoid any wood that splits too readily when it's worked - you'll probably end up eyeballing it with a shinto rasp accross the grain unless it's been carefully prelofted for you and it all falls into place with some luck. You can't get into the corners without a rebate low angle plane or carefull use a sharp paring chisel with a low bevel angle. When working accross the grain adjusting fit you need to be carefull about tearout. The Shinto got the job jobbed for me (sapeli plywood transom with an alaskan yellow cedar transom frame).
    Last edited by Edward Pearson; 12-17-2020 at 06:49 AM.

  5. #75
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    Default Re: Duck Trap Wherry

    Thanks for the advice gentlemen. This table top is very old and seasoned. It is 3/4 inches thick. I shall be gluing another 1/2 inch of mahogany planking (also cut from the table top) on the reverse (what will end up on the inside of the boat) and so, provided my joinery and gluing is strong, I don't anticipate any problems. For the record, this is my 5th dinghy with a transom built this way. The first 4 were wider than this one, using kiln dried wood fresh from the store, and all held up well.

  6. #76
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    Default Re: Duck Trap Wherry

    I hesitate to state the obvious Roy but hide glue joinery falls apart in a moist environment. I hope I didn't insult your intelligence.

  7. #77
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    Default Re: Duck Trap Wherry

    Not at all. The trick is to keep it dry.

  8. #78
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    Default Re: Duck Trap Wherry

    Transom cut out with my trusty jig saw. Some sanding required to take it exactly to the proper lines and then I can cut and glue the inner planks. These will be placed to overlap the existing joints and make the whole piece strong. I will then use my router to make the new planking outline match and ready for attaching to the keel. Then, as Edward Pearson points out, I shall soon be ready for what is probably the toughest part of the whole build and that is cutting bevels for each plank.

    December 19, 2020.jpg
    Last edited by Roy Morford; 12-19-2020 at 08:59 PM.

  9. #79
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    Default Re: Duck Trap Wherry

    The edges have been sanded to the layout lines and both sides have been sanded. I've now decided to put this face inside the boat and put vertical pieces on the other/outer side. This way, every horizontal piece will be fully supported by another piece at 90 degrees. Now I have to go and look for some mahogany with a nice grain pattern.
    This will likely be my last post before Christmas so I'd like to wish you all a very Merry Christmas and a Happy, Healthy New Year.

    December 20, 2020.jpg

  10. #80
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    Default Re: Duck Trap Wherry

    Help! This mahogany table top before I stripped it to bare wood was a very deep red. I have some newly purchased mahogany which I will use to complete the transom. I took a scrap of each and gave them a quick coat of varnish. Wow! The old wood from the table top is now the same deep red as the original table top. The new wood is very pale by comparison. Like really pale. To make this work I shall need to do some staining. This is something new to me. I could just go to the hardware store and by a can of stain but something tells me this is too easy. Has anyone tried to match the colour of old and new wood? Any and all suggestions would be very welcome. Many thanks.

  11. #81
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    Default Re: Duck Trap Wherry

    As I understand it, mahogany, like cherry will darken with exposure to UV. You could put it in full sunlight for a few days and see what happens.

    As for stain you have two choices; dye or pigment. The dye will color all of the wood evenly and can obscure the grain. The pigment stain will deposit in any open pores and typically accents the grain. Sometimes the best approach if you are matching is to use a combination of both. The kicker is that both will fade over time because of exposure to UV.

    If it were mine, I would try to "age" it using sunlight for a bit first. More importantly, I'd finish as planned and let it even out over time.

  12. #82
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    Default Re: Duck Trap Wherry

    Thanks Maximus.
    I guess, being from an antique table, it's had lots of exposure to UV and time to darken. Odd though that after sanding the colour of the bare wood was very close to the new mahogany. Wood is wood though and that perhaps is one of the nice things about it. Each piece is unique. It will be a while before I get this boat finished so I think I'll just live with it for a while, give it as much exposure to UV as possible - says he with a grin - today is the shortest day of the year and we have more hours of rain than sun! I'll leave varnishing until the last possible moment.

  13. #83
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    Default Re: Duck Trap Wherry

    Roy:
    The other thing to keep in mind is that there are many similar species of wood, from many different parts of the world that suppliers call mahogany. You might have something a little different. Even if it is the exact same type of tree, if cut at different times the wood might have differing color. There is also the heartwood vs. sap wood color difference.

    Most folks want uniform color and if you can buy your lumber all at once and from the same log, that is certainly achievable. I however don't mind the variation as it is a natural characteristic of the wood. Of course if the differing color competes with the design of a piece (I'm speaking specifically about furniture here), then the goal should be uniform color. You can always use the lumber strategically to downplay the difference.

    For your transom, since one side is in and one side is out, it likely won't make much difference. There will be few angles at which you can see both surfaces simultaneously.

    I should have lead with this, but your work is excellent. While I have built furniture I have yet to start my first boat. It is builds like these that inspire me to do so. I look forward to watching your progress and seeing this boat launch. Best of luck.

  14. #84
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    Default Re: Duck Trap Wherry

    Thanks again Maximus for the wise words and the praise. Best keep any more praise until it's finished. My biggest talent is hiding my mistakes, of which there are many!

  15. #85
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    Default Re: Duck Trap Wherry

    My Christmas present to myself. A mahogany plank cut down and glued to the transom. If you look very carefully you'll see a couple of areas where I didn't have quite enough and had to insert an off cut to fill the gap without matching the grain too well. However, once the boat is planked and painted and the transom varnished not too many people will notice.
    Merry Christmas.
    December 25, 2020.jpg

  16. #86
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    Default Re: Duck Trap Wherry

    I decided to give the transom a coat of epoxy because it's very damp where I live and it will be quite some time before I will be able to do any finish work, varnishing, painting etc. As I look at it I now realize that the "patch" will largely disappear behind the white painted overlap from the planking and the brass half oval which will extend up from the keel. What's left will be very small and likely below the waterline. I can live with that.

    December 27, 2020.jpg

  17. #87
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    Default Re: Duck Trap Wherry

    Or maybe I should put the "patch" side on the inside of the boat and put this on the outside. Let's take a vote. It will look much better with a few coats of Epithanes.
    December 27, 2020. 2.jpg

  18. #88
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    Default Re: Duck Trap Wherry

    The patch doesn't look bad at all, but if you put it inside it will be nearly totally obscured. That's such a nice shape, somehow it reminds me of the women I've known.

  19. #89
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    Default Re: Duck Trap Wherry

    Today I purchased some wood to strip down to 1/2 x 3/4, join with scarph joints on my special jig, and start trying to figure out exactly where the strakes will go and their dimensions. Reading previous builds of boats with multiple strakes this could well be a long process but one which can't be rushed. I'll keep you posted but please be patient.
    Happy New Year.

  20. #90
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    Default Re: Duck Trap Wherry

    So here are the "long bits of wood" (my wife's description) cut and ready for scarphing. Once joined into "longer pieces of wood" I'll be able to start the process of seeing exactly where I want the strakes.

    December 30, 2020.jpg

  21. #91
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    Default Re: Duck Trap Wherry

    I have a whole box full of various sizes and pitches of wedges saved from making shorts into longs, same as you, and I use them all of the time, as well as bags of what Lovey calls "curls" produced when hand planing. Curls make great fire starter.

    Right after we met and when she first learned that I'm a wood worker she got all excited and told me, in her sometimes heavy French Canadian accent, "Oh, I know all about de wood working! I know about de tongue and groove! I know about de plastique wood!" I knew right then that she was a keeper.

  22. #92
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    Default Re: Duck Trap Wherry

    Following! Thanks for sharing.

    Kevin
    There are two kinds of boaters: those who have run aground, and those who lie about it.

  23. #93
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    Default Re: Duck Trap Wherry

    Here are a couple of pictures. The first shows the transom is now a permanent fixture. In the second picture I used some masking tape so you can see how much of the "patch" will be covered by paint. I could even bring the paint a little higher and cover it completely. I'll make that decision much later. Today I also ordered some okoume ply for the hull. Next job is to mark out where each plank will land and start to make truss patterns. I don't trust myself to spile.

    January 6, 2021 1.jpg

    January 6, 2021 2.jpg

  24. #94
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    Default Re: Duck Trap Wherry

    Picked up my okoume ply for the hull today. The weather gods were smiling on me and we had a whole day of sunshine. The first after weeks of heavy rain and high winds. I now have an incentive to work a little faster but will continue to take my time and try to do a good job.

  25. #95
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    Default Re: Duck Trap Wherry

    It's been a wet one for sure.

    I've been following the marine forecast for the area where I want to spend the next 6 mos. to 2 years. Since 1 Nov. there have been only 2 days that were less than gale warnings. As the winter has progressed there have been more progressively more hurricane force winds. The highest waves have been 10 meters (32.5 feet) with an average of about half that. If I do spend the winter(s) it will be holed up way in one of the inlets.

    Today's forecast.

    https://weather.gc.ca/marine/forecas...2&siteID=15300

    Oh yeah, the boat is looking good Roy.

  26. #96
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    Default Re: Duck Trap Wherry

    Thanks Gib and good luck in your new location. Doesn't sound too boater friendly.

  27. #97
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    Default Re: Duck Trap Wherry

    And so it begins.
    January 16, 2021.jpg

  28. #98
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    Default Re: Duck Trap Wherry

    Getting close to marking out and cutting the garboard plank.

    IMG_2390.jpg

  29. #99
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    Default Re: Duck Trap Wherry

    Like a hot knife through butter. I love my Japanese saw.

    January 21, 2021.jpg

    And it fits. Only a light edge sanding and then I can scarph the two pieces together.

    January 21, 2021 2.jpg

  30. #100
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    Default Re: Duck Trap Wherry

    Wow! Is that 4mm planking? Maybe 6mm? Looking good!

    Cheers,
    Dale

  31. #101
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    Default Re: Duck Trap Wherry

    Hi Dale - 6 mm okoume shipped over from Westwind Hardwood on the island. Are you building anything?
    Last edited by Roy Morford; 01-21-2021 at 08:06 PM.

  32. #102
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    Default Re: Duck Trap Wherry

    Hi Roy,
    Nice. (It's unfortunate our best ply supplier is on the Island, they have to ship it over there, and then we have to ship it back. *%$#!)

    No, building is stalled. Today I put the first coat of varnish of the season on the transom and tiller of my Scamp, and stripped the sail and running rigging off the spars. Coming up on 7 years since launch, the whole boat needs recoating, and I'd like to launch again in March or April, latest... days are getting longer, and the sun came out! Down at the Oarlock and Sail Club (at the Vancouver Maritime Museum), we started an Ian Oughtred Auk, converted to solid timber construction, and have about eight planks on her, but the virus has quit any group work. She's a sweet little fatty, yellow cedar on bent oak, going to be a beauty, can't wait to get back to work on her...

    All the best on your wherry,
    Dale

  33. #103
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    Default Re: Duck Trap Wherry

    I like that saw handle! and thanks for the stir stick template idea. Great looking build.

    Gib's right, sexy transom!


    -Derek


    (Hey Dale! Luna is a lucky lady)

  34. #104
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    Default Re: Duck Trap Wherry

    Hiya Derek, yup, Luna's getting some love. Very deserving after that last amazing season!

    I also like that trick with the stir sticks, Roy. Looking forward to seeing how you plot the next plank, with that lining batten gone I'm assuming you've got a new trick, yet!

    Cheers,
    Dale

  35. #105
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    Default Re: Duck Trap Wherry

    The stir sticks/tongue depressor thing is an old trick. I can't claim to have invented it. The next plank will take some time because I first have to cut a garboard plank for the starboard side using the port side plank as a pattern. Then scarphing and gluing in place. I plan to take my time and get things right (well, as right as my poor skills permit). I also have to take frequent breaks as I'm still recovering from some surgery. Stay tuned but don't hold your breath.

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