The Jealousy. A very slow TS16

[Larks]

Excuse the dodgy drawing, but this might explain the step and base setup better:

[IMG]IMG_2845 by Greg Larkin, on Flickr[/IMG]

[hereselmo1]

These are actually what I had - I didn’t realise the association had them for sale. The first one fits into the base of the mast itself (provided that your mast is the same profile - though you could likely get your mast base modified easily enough to suit the profile of the fitting) and the second one is the step that goes on the cabin top. What is missing in both are the holes for the pin that goes through the base and the step and forms the pivot point for the mast as it goes up.






You’d raise the mast from the stern up - I had a prop' that fitted easily to the transom brace that both supported the mast while in transit (trailering) and was just far enough aft that it balanced the mast in place when I moved it back to line up the mast base with the step to pin it in place. It can just be a length of timber but I used some aluminium tube that could telescope out to hold the boom up and lay a tarp over it as a boom tent, (the fitting that held the telescoped tube in place also had a tricky little hook that I’d use for a solar lamp). When not extended the prop' was the same height as the mast step so that the mast sat horizontal while trailering.:

[IMG]DSC_0146 by Greg Larkin, on Flickr[/IMG]


Raising the mast was relatively easy and I generally preferred to do it by myself and I used the ladder rack or roof rack on my ute to help - this is pretty much how I did it alone:

- Move the mast back in the prop' to line up the mast base with the mast step and fit the pivot/holding pin

- Connect the side stays to the chain plates (I just used D shackles) and make sure that they are clear of anything that they can snag on

- Take the forestay forward over the cabin, tie an extension line to the end of it long enough to lead it further forward around a ladder rack/roof rack bar on my vehicle and back to the cockpit (or to a partner helping you raise the mast if you do have help)

- Stand in the cockpit and start raising the mast while taking up the slack on the forestay extension line and keeping an eye on the side stays to make sure they don’t snag or kink

- Move forward raising the mast until you have to stand on the cabin roof to finish raising it (this is where the extension to the forestay starts to come in handy as it helps you control the mast while you clamber up)

- Even though the base of the mast is pinned it will still want to flop sideways until it is fully up and held vertical by the side stays (and the forestay that you are still holding onto) so keep control of it - the pinned base helps but the weight of the mast while going up would have enough leverage to rip the step out of the deck if it does flop sideways until the stays have it under control. If the side stays are set at the proper length they will tension properly as you take up the tension on the forestay.

- Fasten your forestay to the bow chainplate fitting - I just had a length of line about 1200mm long that I looped a few times around a D shackle on both the forestay and the chainplate before tying it off to itself. The looped line would have been about 200mm long once tied and I was able to get sufficient tension just with that so never bothered with anything like a highfield lever.

I hope that helps but feel free to ask anything else if I can help.

That's amazing.

Thank you.

Yes the missing holes for the bolt through the base is the bit that confused me.

I think I'll buy a set of those and do it that way.

I assume if I just cut the bottom of the mast flat that little bit of lose mast won't hurt anyone.

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[Slacko]

You will need to keep the total mast height the same as the old arrangement possibly using a wooden spacer underneath the step.
If it ends up lower (or higher), the rigging will be the wrong length.
You might get lucky and the rigging screws can correct the length, but it is worth considering.

[Willywaw]

Like nearly all of the Hartleys at our club, ours used the mast plug/step posted above by Greg. When it came to reassembling our boat after a repaint, it was stressed to us that the step should be screwed down with self tappers that went no more than 30mm into the cabin top.

This advice came from a shipwright of 50 years standing, builder of 3 TS16's who's CV also included multi time state TS16 champion and local club champion. He related that on the first TS16 he built, he bolted the step through the cabin top...all good until one of his stays went ping and the mast went over the side taking a large chunk of the cabin top with it. As the mast is captive in its step it is better to have the short screws act as "fuses" and pull cleanly out of the ply/timber. There really is not much side loading on the step so bolting it seems overkill.

[hereselmo1]

Like nearly all of the Hartleys at our club, ours used the mast plug/step posted above by Greg. When it came to reassembling our boat after a repaint, it was stressed to us that the step should be screwed down with self tappers that went no more than 30mm into the cabin top.

This advice came from a shipwright of 50 years standing, builder of 3 TS16's who's CV also included multi time state TS16 champion and local club champion. He related that on the first TS16 he built, he bolted the step through the cabin top...all good until one of his stays went ping and the mast went over the side taking a large chunk of the cabin top with it. As the mast is captive in its step it is better to have the short screws act as "fuses" and pull cleanly out of the ply/timber. There really is not much side loading on the step so bolting it seems overkill.

Great tip thanks mate.
P.s. what would you use to glue the plug to the mast?

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[hereselmo1]

You will need to keep the total mast height the same as the old arrangement possibly using a wooden spacer underneath the step.
If it ends up lower (or higher), the rigging will be the wrong length.
You might get lucky and the rigging screws can correct the length, but it is worth considering.

I assume given we haven't used this mast on this boat before the rigging can be adjusted to suit?

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[hereselmo1]

Next question is about the anchor.

Since we will be using the boat as a day sailer and fishing boat we want a sand anchor at the front.

I can secure the rope to the to peice we have but hwo do I stop the anchor from bouncing off the cleats when it's sailing along?

I really need something one ach side that can hold the anchor in place.

Or else I will have to build a access point in the deck bug enough to put the anchor right inside.

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[WX]

Two options. 1. You store the anchor in the forepeak, assuming you have a forehatch. 2. You make/get some anchor chocks that fasten to the foredeck and hold the anchor in place.

[Larks]

Don’t store the anchor on the deck, fit a hatch and store it below in the forepeak. You’ll want the hatch for ventilation below anyway.

[Larks]

I assume given we haven't used this mast on this boat before the rigging can be adjusted to suit?

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Did any rigging actually come with the mast?

[hereselmo1]

Did any rigging actually come with the mast?

It has the diamond shaped wires on it (sorry I know I should have learnt what they are called by now) and a few fixings where I know ropes used to go.

It used to have more but it's along story thay involved me buying the old boat 2nd hand (for parts) then getting divorced and having some parts salvaged by my ex father in law before th boat was dumped.

It would have been so much easier if I still had the old boat all in on peice to guide us

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[Larks]

It has the diamond shaped wires on it (sorry I know I should have learnt what they are called by now) and a few fixings where I know ropes used to go.

It used to have more but it's along story thay involved me buying the old boat 2nd hand (for parts) then getting divorced and having some parts salvaged by my ex father in law before th boat was dumped.

It would have been so much easier if I still had the old boat all in on peice to guide us

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For the sake of the cost of a bit of new stainless steel cable I’d salvage the fittings and replace the side-stays and forestay with new cable so that you can: a) make and fit the stays to suit the mast and your own boat rather than trying to adapt the boat to suit the old stays; and b) know that you have a set of good new stays that don’t have any issues such as frayed wires, kinks or hidden corrosion inside the lay of the cable.

[Larks]

It would have been so much easier if I still had the old boat all in on peice to guide us

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Bye the way, I think you are better off without it - better to just make your own mistakes than to copy someone else.

[gypsie]

There's beauty little nylon coated CQR anchors for small boats, with a lead weight or something in the tip. Light weight, small for their grabbing capacity and the plastic means no corrosion and they don't batter the boat.
https://cooperanchors.com/

[WX]

There's beauty little nylon coated CQR anchors for small boats, with a lead weight or something in the tip. Light weight, small for their grabbing capacity and the plastic means no corrosion and they don't batter the boat.
https://cooperanchors.com/

I have a finger pinching Danforth for my TS16.

[Larks]

There's beauty little nylon coated CQR anchors for small boats, with a lead weight or something in the tip. Light weight, small for their grabbing capacity and the plastic means no corrosion and they don't batter the boat.
https://cooperanchors.com/

That’s what I had on my Hartley, not plastic but 3.6kg aluminium Cooper anchor. To be honest I never actually got to try it as an anchor in water, I always just took the boat right to the beach and put the anchor up the beach to stop it drifting away, so any anchor would have done. I only picked the Cooper anchor because it was a convenient size and a good price.

[hereselmo1]

Another day another slow step.

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[Larks]

She is looking terrific!! That doesn’t look like a slow step, that looks like steady progress and very nice work to me.......(and nice touch with the cricket in the background....)

[hereselmo1]

She's taking shape.

Today felt like a big step.

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[Larks]

Looking terrific - have you given any thought yet as to how you’ll fit your cabin windows?

[hereselmo1]

Looking terrific - have you given any thought yet as to how you’ll fit your cabin windows?

Yes lots!

We are creating ply frames inside and out.

The inside frame will be epoxied in.

The perplex will be siliconed in using sikaflex.

The outside frame will be held on by sikaflex and reinforced with bolts right through so it can be removed when needed.

Here's the outer frame temporarily screwed in place so we could line up and epoxy on the inner (identical) frame.


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[Larks]

Although you’ve already made the frames you could just fix the perspex windows to the hull using a black double sided foam strip all around to define the inside edge of the frame and Sika/Fixtech to glue them in and seal them. The double sided foam tape also holds the window in place while the Sika sets. It’s a nice neat look and it’s how they’re done on many larger boats these days:

[hereselmo1]

Yeah I like the look of the timber frames though.

We are going to paint the cabin creme and leave the frames timber for a nice traditional look.

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[hereselmo1]

Slowly slowly.

She's officially watertight.

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[hereselmo1]

Waterproof all over!

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[WX]

Looking good. I have yet to decide how I'm fixing my windows, but I will probably just bolt them.

[hereselmo1]

Looking good. I have yet to decide how I'm fixing my windows, but I will probably just bolt them.

Yeah we have probably over built the windows but I liked the look of it and wanted it strong.

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[hereselmo1]

Primer and undercoat on.

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[Larks]

Very nice!!

[hereselmo1]

There's something so satisfying about peeling back the tape!

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[Michael_Owen]

Great work! Great thread. Thanks for sharing.

Mike

[hereselmo1]

Great work! Great thread. Thanks for sharing.

Mike

Glad you enjoyed it.

We're not winning any time trials but we're getting there

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[hereselmo1]

Grip coat done and timbers varnished.

So close to being done with the painting!

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[gypsie]

Cute pics of the kids. Peeling off tape to reveal a nice clean line is soooo satisfying!

re-windows. When you buy the acrylic it has a paper cover stuck on. I inserted my windows and scribed the inside line into the paper with a sharp blade. Then peeled off that outside 20mm or whatever it was.
Then applied heaps! of sika into the rabbet. Pushed the window in, squeegeed the sika into the crevices and used the remaining paper exactly as masking tape.
Then i attached a bezel with small bolts, no more sika, which is mostly aesthetic, but does prevent the window from lifting out.


sika 1.jpg

sika 2.jpg

sika 3.jpg

sika 4.jpg

[gray duck]

Looks great!