Results 1 to 18 of 18

Thread: Waves for Surfing

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Sorrento Australia
    Posts
    2,878

    Default Waves for Surfing

    Time for a thread about surfing. I'm a kneeboarder who has enjoyed thousands of waves on our southern coast from with occasional trips as far noeth as Noosa in QLD and west as Port Lincoln area, South OZ. Mostly though my playground has been where the long swells of the southern ocean meet land's edge on the Bass Strait coastline of Central Southern Victoria. My boys and daughter all surf. Waves are majestic, cavorting, pent up power with the potential for delivering some of the most exhilarating moments of life where time seems to stand still yet all around there is an explosion of energy.

    Here is a little clip form Sydney area NSW.

    Simplicity is the ultimate sophistication. Leonardo da Vinci.

    If war is the answer........... it must be a profoundly stupid question.

    "Freighters on the nod on the surface of the bay, One of these days we're going to sail away"
    Bruce Cockburn

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Sorrento Australia
    Posts
    2,878

    Default Re: Waves for Surfing

    This wave is just down the road from where i live and only works when the ground swell is around 3 meters and well defined with a timing of 16 sec between waves.
    It's called Number 16. Not great pics in this one but it gives an idea. My son Josh and a few mates are the surfers.

    Simplicity is the ultimate sophistication. Leonardo da Vinci.

    If war is the answer........... it must be a profoundly stupid question.

    "Freighters on the nod on the surface of the bay, One of these days we're going to sail away"
    Bruce Cockburn

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Port Stephens
    Posts
    23,166

    Default Re: Waves for Surfing

    The break they now call Deadman's used to be called Winkipop - same name as one of the breaks at Bells. I tore the cartilage in my knee out at Winkipop on a fairly big day, many years ago. I lived at Manly and was a regular at Fairy Bower until we moved to the Mid-North Coast. I still surf but infrequently. When we were young surfers, our generation had it to ourselves but now all the generations are out there and it's more crowded than ever. I think it's harder for the kids now - not only are there more young people surfing but now they have to contend with a plague of old farts on long boards as well!
    Rick

    Lean and nosey like a ferret

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    West Sacramento, CA
    Posts
    7,426

    Default Re: Waves for Surfing

    In case anyone appreciating this thread on surfing waves hasn't seen this classic documentary from 1966:

    Speak softly and carry a mouthful of marbles.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    East Quogue,NY
    Posts
    20,716

    Default Re: Waves for Surfing

    Some local skeggers. Too big for me, anymore. Now, I am just into mellow cruising on my longboard.

    IMG_8251.jpg

    IMG_8025.jpg

    Kevin
    Last edited by Breakaway; 10-26-2020 at 07:39 AM.
    There are two kinds of boaters: those who have run aground, and those who lie about it.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Portland, Oregon
    Posts
    67,546

    Default Re: Waves for Surfing

    Always happy to see a surfing thread. Growing up at the Oregon coast... I surfed a lot. All longboard. Mostly small waves. We only had one wave that was bigger. When the conditions were just right - there was a shore break on the North side of Tillamook Head that went 10-25'. I rode it when it was there. I still remember the fear & adrenaline... first time dropping into it... as a fall meant into shallow water/rocks/barnacles/mussels. Wiping out meant getting torn up but good.

    Here's a break at the edge of my normal route - typical Oregon wave --

    David G
    Harbor Woodworks
    https://www.facebook.com/HarborWoodworks/

    "It was a Sunday morning and Goddard gave thanks that there were still places where one could worship in temples not made by human hands." -- L. F. Herreshoff (The Compleat Cruiser)

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Alameda, CA
    Posts
    16,655

    Default Re: Waves for Surfing

    Wetsuits changed the sport. I was raised in the endless summer and always thought that surfers who used wetsuits could not be soul surfers. It was only after I moved to San Francisco and surfed Ocean beach and Santa Cruz that I understood.

    In San Diego this past week; the water was 66 degree. I surfed the mornings on 2 to 4s on a 9.6 nose rider while in a long sleeve surf guard. It was so nice. I used muscles i forgot I had. It became Advil afternoons. I am still so sore.

    Screen Shot 2020-10-26 at 12.02.59 PM.jpg

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    West Sacramento, CA
    Posts
    7,426

    Default Re: Waves for Surfing

    Waves break, and wash up on the beach. And when you aren't looking, they deposit billions of tiny hard grains of sand, the left-overs of erosion on the continent and coast and crap stirred up off the bottom by currents and storms.

    So waves that collapse while you aren't watching them turn into particles. The ocean is quantum mechanical.
    Speak softly and carry a mouthful of marbles.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Deepest Darkest Wales
    Posts
    22,621

    Default Re: Waves for Surfing

    Endless winter
    I'd much rather lay in my bunk all freakin day lookin at Youtube videos .

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Portland, Oregon
    Posts
    67,546

    Default Re: Waves for Surfing

    P.I.S.N. -- That IS a beautiful wave. If it's always an offshore wind like that, it really help hold the wave up and keep that lovely shape/tube.
    David G
    Harbor Woodworks
    https://www.facebook.com/HarborWoodworks/

    "It was a Sunday morning and Goddard gave thanks that there were still places where one could worship in temples not made by human hands." -- L. F. Herreshoff (The Compleat Cruiser)

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Deepest Darkest Wales
    Posts
    22,621

    Default Re: Waves for Surfing

    The wind varies in both direction and strength.....

    Anyone else surf standing waves?is is Skookumchuck in Canada - but Scotland and Wales have similar tide races.

    I'd much rather lay in my bunk all freakin day lookin at Youtube videos .

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    New Zealand's Far North
    Posts
    9,659

    Default Re: Waves for Surfing

    This is the break local to me.

    Money may not buy happiness, but it can buy a boat that will pull right up next to it!

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Portland, Oregon
    Posts
    67,546

    Default Re: Waves for Surfing

    Stiletto - now THAT is beautifimous!! Does that break have a name?
    David G
    Harbor Woodworks
    https://www.facebook.com/HarborWoodworks/

    "It was a Sunday morning and Goddard gave thanks that there were still places where one could worship in temples not made by human hands." -- L. F. Herreshoff (The Compleat Cruiser)

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    New Zealand's Far North
    Posts
    9,659

    Default Re: Waves for Surfing

    Shipwreck Bay Ahipara, referred to as shippies by my son and his pals.

    I've seen a guy start at that outer break and ride all the way in to the shore!
    Money may not buy happiness, but it can buy a boat that will pull right up next to it!

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Sorrento Australia
    Posts
    2,878

    Default Re: Waves for Surfing

    That's a great lineup. We have one similar but at Black Nose Point in Portland. Not great pics but gives you an idea of the size and i've seen bigger days.





    Simplicity is the ultimate sophistication. Leonardo da Vinci.

    If war is the answer........... it must be a profoundly stupid question.

    "Freighters on the nod on the surface of the bay, One of these days we're going to sail away"
    Bruce Cockburn

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Portland, Oregon
    Posts
    67,546

    Default Re: Waves for Surfing

    David G
    Harbor Woodworks
    https://www.facebook.com/HarborWoodworks/

    "It was a Sunday morning and Goddard gave thanks that there were still places where one could worship in temples not made by human hands." -- L. F. Herreshoff (The Compleat Cruiser)

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Sorrento Australia
    Posts
    2,878

    Default Re: Waves for Surfing


    The music that has been inspired by surfing is a great idea for a thread!!

    http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthre...90#post6305190

    Here are 2 pics of my eldest, Ben when he was living in Sydney.






    Last edited by Hallam; 10-26-2020 at 09:14 PM.
    Simplicity is the ultimate sophistication. Leonardo da Vinci.

    If war is the answer........... it must be a profoundly stupid question.

    "Freighters on the nod on the surface of the bay, One of these days we're going to sail away"
    Bruce Cockburn

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Portland, Oregon
    Posts
    67,546

    Default Re: Waves for Surfing

    Those kids... surfing on oversized skateboard decks!!! <G> Gimmee a longboard any day...
    David G
    Harbor Woodworks
    https://www.facebook.com/HarborWoodworks/

    "It was a Sunday morning and Goddard gave thanks that there were still places where one could worship in temples not made by human hands." -- L. F. Herreshoff (The Compleat Cruiser)

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Farmington, Oregon
    Posts
    14,520

    Default Re: Waves for Surfing


  20. #20
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Sorrento Australia
    Posts
    2,878

    Default Re: Waves for Surfing

    They're surf rats that's for sure! I fall off surfboards!! Gimme a kneeboard any day....
    Simplicity is the ultimate sophistication. Leonardo da Vinci.

    If war is the answer........... it must be a profoundly stupid question.

    "Freighters on the nod on the surface of the bay, One of these days we're going to sail away"
    Bruce Cockburn

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •