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Thread: Clinker Launch

  1. #36
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    Default Re: Clinker Launch

    For many reasons, I stuck with the original dimensions of the stern knee.
    I bored a 10mm hole from each end, through a guide plate, we met in middle. I then cut a 38mm hole saw, doing away with the arbour. A new flange was made at the drill end of the tube and a 10 mm rod through it all. 3" of rod protruded for centre hole guide, and 2" to go into chuck. Centred that up and welded the rod to my flange. Was sore on my small drill machines due to friction of tube . Going from each end it met in middle and I bought no tools to do it.
    I have the step at each end to make for the spigot insertions.
    IMG_0430.jpgIMG_0431.jpgIMG_0432.jpgIMG_0433.jpg

  2. #37
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    Default Re: Clinker Launch

    Is American White oak acceptable for a laminated stem or must it be Quercus Robur. I see many boats using AWO in kits yet others say it is not great. I also have Sapelle and Iroko I can make one from.

  3. #38
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    Default Re: Clinker Launch

    Stem Lamination. Looking straight on at stem fitted, which way should the grain run? Vertical or horizontal? Is kiln dried acceptable or must it be air dried?

  4. #39
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    Default Re: Clinker Launch

    Quote Originally Posted by lexi View Post
    Stem Lamination. Looking straight on at stem fitted, which way should the grain run? Vertical or horizontal? Is kiln dried acceptable or must it be air dried?
    Don't understand the vertical or horizontal question.
    Grain orientation probably does not matter with a lamination.
    I would steam the lams around your former before gluing them. That will guarantee that the oak will take the bend. That will allow the woods humidity to settle out. See if you can source resorcinol glue like Cascaphen for the laminating, it is the glue used in marine WBP plywood.
    It really is quite difficult to build an ugly wooden boat.

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  5. #40
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    Default Re: Clinker Launch

    Quote Originally Posted by Peerie Maa View Post
    Don't understand the vertical or horizontal question.
    Grain orientation probably does not matter with a lamination.
    I would steam the lams around your former before gluing them. That will guarantee that the oak will take the bend. That will allow the woods humidity to settle out. See if you can source resorcinol glue like Cascaphen for the laminating, it is the glue used in marine WBP plywood.
    Thanks Nick. 5" Stem depth and 2 1/4" wide. Will 1/4" lams be about right

  6. #41
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    Default Re: Clinker Launch

    Quote Originally Posted by lexi View Post
    Thanks Nick. 5" Stem depth and 2 1/4" wide. Will 1/4" lams be about right

    Yes, you could go thicker if you do steam the curved end.
    It really is quite difficult to build an ugly wooden boat.

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  7. #42
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    Default Re: Clinker Launch

    Managed to get some oak from Gleneagles Estate for the stem. Only had my Dewalt Flip saw to rip it. Even with a new blade it was slow going.
    Used 105 west system as the surfaces had some gaps..........no thickness planer here. Had heard that Cascophen had to be really good fit so I opted for what I had. Did my normal in keying up surfaces with metal saw blade, both ways,de- greasing and then using standard mix first with thickened mix on top. This has worked well on Iroko and even Teak for me. I destroyed the cut offs and they all broke at the wood, not the glue line.
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  8. #43
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    Default Re: Clinker Launch

    ^ Nice.
    It really is quite difficult to build an ugly wooden boat.

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  9. #44
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    Default Re: Clinker Launch

    Quote Originally Posted by Peerie Maa View Post
    ^ Nice.
    Thanks Nick. No real bandsaw here either, so the nice QS Oak, for Keel Hog had to be ripped the hard way. Made a kerf plane and managed a cut of 1/4" deep all way round and at the ends. Took a few hours with a new 244 Bahco. It came out pretty fair. Keeps the weight off!
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  10. #45
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    Default Re: Clinker Launch

    For the plank nails and roves. 7/16 planks. Is 11 gauge about right? About half thickness pilot hole for nail with Larch planking?

  11. #46
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    Default Re: Clinker Launch

    Quote Originally Posted by lexi View Post
    For the plank nails and roves. 7/16 planks. Is 11 gauge about right? About half thickness pilot hole for nail with Larch planking?
    What gauge did you take out? For new plank to new plank, use the same size, If into an old hole go up one size.
    Reading John Leather 12 gauge should be the original size. For larch the pilot hole should be half of the diagonal across the corners. For oak, the diameter of the drill size is the nails thickness. You may be better making your own spade point drills out of bicycle spokes to get the correct diameter in suitable convenient lengths.
    It really is quite difficult to build an ugly wooden boat.

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  12. #47
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    Default Re: Clinker Launch

    Quote Originally Posted by Peerie Maa View Post
    What gauge did you take out? For new plank to new plank, use the same size, If into an old hole go up one size.
    Reading John Leather 12 gauge should be the original size. For larch the pilot hole should be half of the diagonal across the corners. For oak, the diameter of the drill size is the nails thickness. You may be better making your own spade point drills out of bicycle spokes to get the correct diameter in suitable convenient lengths.
    I have kept a few nails and will measure up. Bike spokes sound good...........Monel of course!

  13. #48
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    Default Re: Clinker Launch

    Quote Originally Posted by lexi View Post
    I have kept a few nails and will measure up. Bike spokes sound good...........Monel of course!
    Can you harden and temper Monel? I know it is tough, but.
    It really is quite difficult to build an ugly wooden boat.

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  14. #49
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    Default Re: Clinker Launch

    Quote Originally Posted by Peerie Maa View Post
    Can you harden and temper Monel? I know it is tough, but.
    It should work harden on the anvil and go through soft timber easily I would think. Bike spokes were of Monel before going to a type of stainless steel like 304 or similar.
    I take it the copper nail widths are measured across the corners ie widest point?

  15. #50
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    Default Re: Clinker Launch

    Quote Originally Posted by lexi View Post
    It should work harden on the anvil and go through soft timber easily I would think. Bike spokes were of Monel before going to a type of stainless steel like 304 or similar.
    I take it the copper nail widths are measured across the corners ie widest point?
    For Oak, nailing the hood ends, the drill equals the thickness across the flats. For larch the drill equals half of the width across the corners.
    It really is quite difficult to build an ugly wooden boat.

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  16. #51
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    Default Re: Clinker Launch

    The nails on the boat are 2mm for plank to plank and 3mm through planks and rib, so 14g and 11g. The rib nail is folded rather than a rove used. They have held well. Any raised eyebrows on those sizes for 7/16 plank?

  17. #52
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    Default Re: Clinker Launch

    Quote Originally Posted by lexi View Post
    The nails on the boat are 2mm for plank to plank and 3mm through planks and rib, so 14g and 11g. The rib nail is folded rather than a rove used. They have held well. Any raised eyebrows on those sizes for 7/16 plank?
    If it aint broke dont fix it.
    Use those sizes for new wood to new wood, one gauge thicker to guarantee grip in the old holes.
    It really is quite difficult to build an ugly wooden boat.

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  18. #53
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    Default Re: Clinker Launch

    Well rest of winter was spent making what will be renewed inside the boat. Keel and dead wood fitted too and transom repaired.

    The log for planking. I have a few to see now over the weeks. When they cut to my desired 7/16, Will that need planed? Or will I get a 16th extra and plane and sand myself. I need a 17ft log to avoid any scarphing, however ATM only 16ft are available which I don't want. Patience and more searching.......so nothing new in that then. Managed to do a good service and parts renewal on the Yanmar 1gm10. It was seized due to lying long term with no cloth over intake and a valve most likely open. Rigged it up on bed and it runs like a sweetie..............if you can call a diesel thumper such a thing!
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  19. #54
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    Default Re: Clinker Launch

    Very nice!

  20. #55
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    Default Re: Clinker Launch

    Quote Originally Posted by lexi View Post
    Well rest of winter was spent making what will be renewed inside the boat. Keel and dead wood fitted too and transom repaired.

    The log for planking. I have a few to see now over the weeks. When they cut to my desired 7/16, Will that need planed? Or will I get a 16th extra and plane and sand myself. I need a 17ft log to avoid any scarphing, however ATM only 16ft are available which I don't want. Patience and more searching.......so nothing new in that then. Managed to do a good service and parts renewal on the Yanmar 1gm10. It was seized due to lying long term with no cloth over intake and a valve most likely open. Rigged it up on bed and it runs like a sweetie..............if you can call a diesel thumper such a thing!
    Talk to your sawyer about the thickness of his saw kerf, and see if he will plane it for you. That way you can have confidence that he will thickness to your 7/16ths when finished planing. Do not ask him to saw to 7/16ths as the sawn plank may come off the saw at 5/16th before planing.
    You might find it easier putting a scarf in that garboard and the next strake as they both land on the sternpost.
    It really is quite difficult to build an ugly wooden boat.

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  21. #56
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    Default Re: Clinker Launch

    Hi Lexi, great to see the progress youíre making. Is the boat at a home workshop so you donít have to travel to work on her?
    Iím going to struggle now and for the foreseeable future with my Motor Cutter project, with the Covid19 crisis; the boat is on my way to-from work but I cannot safely work alongside my carpenter buddy now.

    Bill

  22. #57
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    Default Re: Clinker Launch

    Wow you are moving right along, excellent. That extended hole saw looks frictionous!

    Great work.

  23. #58
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    Default Re: Clinker Launch

    Quote Originally Posted by Redwing228 View Post
    Hi Lexi, great to see the progress you’re making. Is the boat at a home workshop so you don’t have to travel to work on her?
    I’m going to struggle now and for the foreseeable future with my Motor Cutter project, with the Covid19 crisis; the boat is on my way to-from work but I cannot safely work alongside my carpenter buddy now.

    Bill
    Hi Bill
    Boat is in drive here at home with 12m carport and the bombsite 6x4 garage/workshop. I now have all the copper nails needed.......yippee!
    Maybe I shouldn't be running around looking at logs mmm! Good luck with your boat. Ner' mind, when God made time he made loads of it.

  24. #59
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    Default Re: Clinker Launch

    Quote Originally Posted by lupussonic View Post
    Wow you are moving right along, excellent. That extended hole saw looks frictionous!

    Great work.
    Hi Lupo
    I know boat work can't be counted and rushed but could have built a small house in the time this has taken lol! I must be playing myself, but it is Craft and Pleasure. Hole saw was pure Heath Robinson. It cost nowt though and bored the hole

  25. #60
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    Default Re: Clinker Launch

    You might find it easier putting a scarf in that garboard and the next strake as they both land on the sternpost.
    I will get you to elaborate on that nearer the time Nick.
    Atb

  26. #61
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    Default Re: Clinker Launch

    After Lockdown holdups, I am nearer to getting Larch Boatskin delivered. My supplier is saying that the European Larch cannot be cut to my 7/16 thickness. He says it will split off the saw at that thickness. He is proposing 18mm ?? That is a helluva waste. Any thoughts on what might be going on here, because he did not mention this problem before.

  27. #62
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    Default Re: Clinker Launch

    Quote Originally Posted by lexi View Post
    After Lockdown holdups, I am nearer to getting Larch Boatskin delivered. My supplier is saying that the European Larch cannot be cut to my 7/16 thickness. He says it will split off the saw at that thickness. He is proposing 18mm ?? That is a helluva waste. Any thoughts on what might be going on here, because he did not mention this problem before.
    If you are replacing pairs of strakes, and are confident with a rip saw, have the log sawn and planed to an inch, and a 1/8th planed. Then spile and shape your plank before ripping down to two identical book-matched trakes which you then plane to your 7/16ths. This was common practice with many boatbuilders, the 1 1/8th offcuts were then used for risers and inwales.
    It really is quite difficult to build an ugly wooden boat.

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  28. #63
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    Default Re: Clinker Launch

    I have been away for a few days and I am treated to your interesting thread which I greatly applaud! I think I will sit by with interest for a while as it looks like you and Nick and the rest have this well in hand! Yours is a very interesting looking project! As to the meaning of a "Keelson", which I think was mentioned here. I have always thought it was a keel strengthening member that is laid over the floors to add more strength to the keel in a larger boat than yours. Smaller boats usually don't need one. A lot of people seem to be confused on that and will sometimes call a keel a keelson which it isn't. I do like the grain on that stock for the stern knee.
    Jay

  29. #64
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    Default Re: Clinker Launch

    Jay; Thanks for your comments and interest.
    Nick: Are you trying to kill me? I have most of the planking to renew. I am pretty ok with a rip saw. Is it feasible to do it this way? I mean rip all those planks?

  30. #65
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    Default Re: Clinker Launch

    Quote Originally Posted by lexi View Post
    Jay; Thanks for your comments and interest.
    Nick: Are you trying to kill me? I have most of the planking to renew. I am pretty ok with a rip saw. Is it feasible to do it this way? I mean rip all those planks?
    As I said, it was common practice in boatyards in the UK, well I can vouch for England anyway. It is a way to get more planks from the log when labour was relatively cheap and only having to spile and shape once per strake.

    It is a choice between your sweat or paying for plane shavings on the sawmill floor.
    It really is quite difficult to build an ugly wooden boat.

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  31. #66
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    Default Re: Clinker Launch

    What you are doing Lexi just smacks of the old days! I really like this job you are buried in!
    Jay

  32. #67
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    Default Re: Clinker Launch

    Thanks a lot Jay...........I may eventually be in danger of getting a boat out of this!
    Nick: I think you are right. At most, 10 cuts with the rip saw at even 30mins a cut is nothing in comparison to overall boat time.

  33. #68
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    Default Re: Clinker Launch

    While I wait on planking, a question. Ribs. It is very hard to get straight Oak here that is air dried or green. That stuff is usually hipster wood with faces in it and grain everywhere. Although expensive, kiln dried oak from Poland is available from my nearest supplier. If I cut this to my rib dimensions and left in water tubes for a few weeks, would they work and be acceptable after steaming?

  34. #69
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    Default Re: Clinker Launch

    It's all about grain run out... try to get the straightest grain you can with as little end grain showing along the length. This will minimise splitting when you force them to bend in the hull. A good long steam after soaking will pay dividends.

    By the way, hole diameter for nail size is normally from flat to flat...the corners are left to bite into the wood in a slightly smaller hole than the square nail shank.

    Circle below is drill / hole size. Square is nail.
    images.png

  35. #70
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    Default Re: Clinker Launch

    Quote Originally Posted by lexi View Post
    While I wait on planking, a question. Ribs. It is very hard to get straight Oak here that is air dried or green. That stuff is usually hipster wood with faces in it and grain everywhere. Although expensive, kiln dried oak from Poland is available from my nearest supplier. If I cut this to my rib dimensions and left in water tubes for a few weeks, would they work and be acceptable after steaming?
    Yes, this should work with timbers of small section. I have used a length of 100mm poly-duct with one end stopped up and filled with water. My mate just chucked his ash timbers in his garden pond for a few weeks!
    Jimmy Fury, builder of Shannon O.D. Dinghies had his oak soaking in the bog near his workshop...

    https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=0meQiENR4zA

    Before you resort to having to use imported timber have you asked Mr Williams if he would courier you a few boards of green oak from Pontardulais?
    http://awhardwoodsltd.co.uk/


    Bill
    Last edited by Redwing228; 05-22-2020 at 12:32 PM.

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