Clinker Launch

[DoctorB]

A bit of a sidebar about knots:
For through knots that should come out, I epoxy a dutchman to half the plank thickness (more or less), and do another on the flip side of the plank, a little deeper than the first, but offset or rotated and sometimes in a different shape. I use a router and template with inlay bit because I'm not good enough with a chisel.

Enjoying this thread.

[lexi]

Still at it. Starting to fit out now that all planking and ribbing is done. Oh my poor neighbours!

[Peerie Maa]

Still at it. Starting to fit out now that all planking and ribbing is done. Oh my poor neighbours!

What a difference

[lupussonic]

She looks great Lexi. Tight and strong with those new frames. It looks like you replaced all of them? Wonderful, well done.

Are you going for an inboard?

This was my 16 footer, just showing you some ideas for the sole etc..

IMG_0425.jpg

IMG_0426.jpg

IMG_0427.jpg

regards,

Martin.

[lexi]

Thanks Nick and Martin. That boat looks Salty mate! Cheers for the sole pics as that is something that I am contemplating now. Mmm many ways to do it? It previously had plywood sole . I have enough Larch to make a boarded sole. Also the sole height at the stern was raised too much and the seat stringers were quite low so I hope to improve that. Thinking about chasing in the prop shaft, rather than raise the whole floor over it. Will see how that pans out. Every plank and rib were done Martin. I only kept the inwale and transom to retain the shape along with my plywood mouldings. Your rub rails on the sheer strake are about how I aim to do mine. Yes inboard Yanmar 1gm. It had a brand new cylinder head and since been in freshwater only.

[nedL]

She looks wonderful!

[lupussonic]

The sole on my boat was I'll admit a pain in the back side to make. I wanted all areas to be lifted out in a jiffy if need be, but wanted it solid to walk on obviously. I made T n G edges but rounded over so they would not completely stick solid if I wanted to lift them vertically. 1 inch holes everywhere so I could get 2 fingers in to lift them, and check the state of bilge water at a glance. It is a compromise of how low you want it (less area though) and how high you want it to cover your shaft and bilge pump etc. Some judicious measuring of items that will be under there along with some head scratching and plenty of tea are in order. I would also do the sole last after everything else has gone in. I laid athwartships supports first, then bodgered the longitudinal planks in, stepping on them and then lifting to see the marks the frames made on them showing where to chamfer off a bit more until they all laid flat. Then when all the planks were laid I screwed three or four together either underneath or on top (see third photo) so that they came out in 3 or 4 at a time, getting rid of the tongues along those seams. I probably went a bit over the top cutting recesses out for each frame at the edges, but they also help keep them in place. I was most pleased with the black cuddy just aft of the engine box; useful like you wouldn't believe.

Sorry, now that I look at the photos there's way too much crap in the boat to even see much of the sole, but you get the idea. The shot of the bow was also during construction...

'Petrel' was a ships jolly boat from pre WWII, first ever sail of her was from Falmouth to the Isles of Scilly. Some months later I put in a 1GM also, noisy old banger but it did me proud.

Engine bearers are tricksy... I don't know if you have a tube aperture already, or bearers already... if so, pay no attention! But.. If you even have the old bearers half rotten somewhere they will give you a start, showing you their shape. I hope you have a tractor you can borrow, as lifting the lump in and out for a look-see several times is pretty useful. I taped a laser pointer to a 3 inch length of shaft sticking out of the gearbox to get an idea where my full length shaft would want to exit the boat. I was loath to chop the stern post in half for the tube, so I placed it just to the side, carving out a wooden outer 'mould' in 2 parts that fitted outside the bronze tube exactly like a clam, but also sat flush with the clinker planks just for'ard of the sternpost. It took me exactly 24 hours (non-stop, red-eyed) to carve it, as the clinker planks bend, twist and curve all at the same time. Hellish thing to attempt, given that it also has to perfectly fit the tube inside, and be exactly aligned with the tube, and shaft, and hence the engine inside. I then bent two lengths of stainless studding into a 'u', recessed that around the wood a bit and bolted them both through the sternpost. The wooden 'shell' was masticked on to the boat and the 'u' bolts cranked up, then the whole shebang covered in glass and epoxy. Never a leak in 25 years.

She is looking great Lexi, keep at it!

[Redwing228]

Lexi, She’s looking very good now, you’re doing an excellent job!

Your 16footer looks nice too, Martin. Was she lug-rigged?

Bill

[lupussonic]

Lexi, She’s looking very good now, you’re doing an excellent job!

Your 16footer looks nice too, Martin. Was she lug-rigged?

Bill

Hi Bill, thanks. Yes Beer lug.

Lugger1.jpg

I once drank a beer with a guy called David Beer, In Beer.

[lexi]

Thanks for all the comments guys and boat building tech help/ideas throughout!

[IanMilne]

Very informative thread, and relevant to my next build. Thanks, Lexi, and all. Subscribed!

Ian

[lexi]

Bit further on now.

[lupussonic]

Gorgeous!

[nedL]

Just beautiful!!

[Alex1N]

Lovely .

[St.J]

Beautiful job!

[timo4352]

Beautiful job.
Looks like a different boat.