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Thread: Ripping mahogany decking vaneers

  1. #1
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    Default Ripping mahogany decking vaneers

    Hi all!

    I'm in the process of ordering the mahogany for the "bonnet" decking of my 3.6m runabout. I would need to rip 0.4x5cm vaneers.

    Having never really used a table saw for such fine ripping, I was wondering until what thickness I can safely continue ripping.

    For example, I start with a 3.8x22cm board (starndard size in spain apparently), rip them down into four 3.8x5cm boards, then start ripping 5x0.4cm strips. So from 3.8mm, after the first strip I'd be down to 3.1cm (4mm+3mm blade), then down to 2.4cm, the down to 1.7cm, then 1cm etc.

    What would be the limit?

    Thanks in advance!

    Ash.

  2. #2
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    Apr 2010
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    Default

    A lot depends on how good your saw is, and the rest depends on how good you are at feeding the timber through. Set your fence to the thickness you want and try it out on some scrap wood.

    Sent from my CPH1851 using Tapatalk

  3. #3
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    Default Re: Ripping mahogany decking vaneers

    I think I'd be taping it up between chunks of commodity lumber to go that thin. Or maybe I'd want to cut 5cm wide strip from 6 cm stock, with saw set to 5cm and the veneers staying attached to the "spine" and cutting them off when one is finished.

    Or since I am experimentally minded and not liking to turn more wood into dust than necessary, I might look at the old style shingle splitters and figure out a similar set up to split off small lengths of veneers. Not the ones called a froe though that was totally manual, thinking of ones that were more like a bagel cutter. This is probably just a confusing topic so probably I should shut up.
    2019: returning from being sidelined with medical probs, crossing fingers worst is over, still in "armchair enthusiast" mode for time being.

  4. #4
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    Nov 2006
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    8,586

    Default Re: Ripping mahogany decking vaneers

    Quote Originally Posted by Plyboy View Post
    I might look at the old style shingle splitters and figure out a similar set up to split off small lengths of veneers. Not the ones called a froe though that was totally manual, thinking of ones that were more like a bagel cutter.

    Sometimes it's easier to eat the cost, accept the high waste factor and get the job done.

    Don't forget to allow for jointing before and during the ripping and cleaning up after. 30 percent might be a good round figure for this kind of work. That's what happens when you have to rip out of narrow pieces, instead of the four strips you were hoping for you end up with three instead.

    Jim

  5. #5
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    Default Re: Ripping mahogany decking vaneers

    I have absolutely no experience with this process, but don't some builders use small circular saws for this? And I **think** I've seen references to using small router bits also.
    "The enemies of reason have a certain blind look."
    Doctor Jacquin to Lieutenant D'Hubert, in Ridley Scott's first major film _The Duellists_.

  6. #6
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    Default Re: Ripping mahogany decking vaneers

    Tell us more about your kit. What sort of saw - Bandsaw? Tablesaw? Brand/model? Your experience with it?

    Do you have access to a jointer? Thickness planer?

    As Jim says, even in a professional shop, we don't expect to get perfect cuts coming off the saw. We just cut things a bit oversize, then joint/plane/resaw/etc. to our final dimension.
    David G
    Harbor Woodworks
    https://www.facebook.com/HarborWoodworks/

    "It was a Sunday morning and Goddard gave thanks that there were still places where one could worship in temples not made by human hands." -- L. F. Herreshoff (The Compleat Cruiser)

  7. #7
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    Default Re: Ripping mahogany decking vaneers

    Ripping on a table saw, especially thin cuts, are inherently dangerous. There are numerous ways to permanently damage yourself and possibly others who just happen to get in the way. As such, it is not something a beginner ought to attempt. So my advice: Since you have to ask, don't do it.

    You need personal instruction. Find someone who is well acquainted with the machine to help you learn. Start slowly. Don't start with one of the most difficult processes.

    Jeff

  8. #8
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    Default Re: Ripping mahogany decking vaneers

    No limit, but rip a little more than half the length from one end then turn the stock end for end and rip the remaining length. That way you keep your fingies away from the blade.

    Once the 2 cuts meet just lift the veneer up, don't attempt to pull it out lengthwise, that would ruin it and maybe send it back in your face.

    The 4mm should be between the blade and the fence.

    Use a thin kerf Diablo blade and don't be in a rush.

    Do you have a thickness planer?

  9. #9
    Join Date
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    Default Re: Ripping mahogany decking vaneers

    .4 cm finished thickness can be a pain to do in a planer depending on stock quality better results from a thickness sander although much slower. if you are really concerned about yield - resaw on a bandsaw (almost any bandsaw should work with a decent blade and only 5cm deep of cutting), then thickness sand.

  10. #10
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    Default Re: Ripping mahogany decking vaneers

    It is better and much safer to use the bandsaw for ripping thin pieces. Highland Woodworking has a really fine article on this. I got a special bandsaw blad for resawing from Highland Woodworking. This blade has a very thin kerf so there is little waste. Look for Wood Slicer Resaw Blade. I have no affiliation to this company or this product.
    - Oddbjorn

  11. #11
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    Default Re: Ripping mahogany decking vaneers

    +1 on the Highland resaw bqndsaw blades. Once you use them youll never use anything else on your saw. The cut is smooth and clean, almost ready for finish.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
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    seattle
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    Default Re: Ripping mahogany decking vaneers

    Totally agree on the Woodslicer bandsaw blade from Highland. I was able to make 1/16” veneers on mine but it requires some very careful setups of guide bearings, blade tension etc. if you do use a table saw, look at using two feather boards; one On the fence to hold it down and one on the table to hold the stock tight against the fence.

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