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Thread: Advice on Lappstrake repair

  1. #1
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    Default Advice on Lappstrake repair

    Hi guys, I have a long crack in a strake just above the garboard and don't want to take the whole boat apart to replace it. Was thinking of routing out a 1 3/4 x 6' by 1/4 inch depth of the same wood and piecing it in. Should I use epoxy or sika flex 291 to do this. This will be below the waterline and painted with bottom paint. My piece of wood is actually 3/8 ' thick and will have to plane it to make it perfect. On the inside I plan on using sika flex 291 to fill in the rest. Th plank thickness is a heavy 1/2". I could also use bronze ring shank nails at the ribs after I plane it fair. But again the question is whether to use epoxy of SF291.

  2. #2
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    Default Re: Advice on Lappstrake repair

    I would use epoxy inside and out. How straight is the crack? One tried and tested method is to router full depth just wider than the crack and glue in a spline.
    Use ring shank nails if you really hate the next person to maintain the boat. Nothing wrong with small bronze screws.
    It really is quite difficult to build an ugly wooden boat.

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  3. #3
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    Default Re: Advice on Lappstrake repair

    What is the boat, what is the wood and how do you want to use the boat? My lapstrake boat (33 ft, Jersey white cedar planking) has a couple of checked / split planks that allow daylight through from about late winter until I start getting her ready for the water, after she goes in the water the checks tighten up and don’t leak at all.

  4. #4
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    Default Re: Advice on Lappstrake repair

    My boat is a 18' lapstrake double ender built in Norway made of Larch wood. It hasn't seen water in over 20 years. Don't know if I should soak the boat to try to see if it will swell up, but then I won't be able to epoxy it until it dries again. You can see my boat on a previous post a few years ago (Snekker Find). I know I am going slow with this, but now I would like to get this dam boat in the water some time.

  5. #5
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    Default Re: Advice on Lappstrake repair

    This?
    Quote Originally Posted by tomwil View Post
    Hello Forum, found this 1969 Snekker 18'boat for $200, how could I resist. Have been viewing this forum since its inception, but first time posting. At first I bought this as a carpentry project, but then also found a 1974 Bukh 10horse diesel to put in it. Would appreciate some help as to how to go about restoring it in the best way. Here are some of the problems:

    1. Have a split in #4 plank starboard side. This seems too big to swell back. It starts 2' from the stern to @ 7' from the stem, with a butt block in the middle. Should I replace both planks or place one in between with 2 butt blocks.
    2. Have other splits at butt block connections, but they seem like they might swell back up. At the splits, should I just apply epoxy in the splits and reblock?
    3. The sheer planks and rails have split and or rotted on both sides. Should I replace the whole plank or splice the top 2" of it?

    Also, should I apply anything like linseed oil to keep it from drying out. It is in my garage right now.
    Thanks, my name is Tom Wilhelmsen, and would appreciate any advice. Here are the some pics. Tell me if you need any more.

    Quote Originally Posted by Peerie Maa View Post
    Well, with 4830 boats built they will have been cutting some corners to get them out.

    I'd replace the shear strake rather than patching them. It will be easier and stronger to replace it/them.

    That plank at the waterline is also shot and should come out.

    The short split in the plank below the shear strake can be repaired with a glued in spline.
    It really is quite difficult to build an ugly wooden boat.

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  6. #6
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    Default Re: Advice on Lappstrake repair

    I would agree with Nick. The only other comment I would have is that I have seen splits actually made worse with epoxy. ... progressive swelling drying cycles actually making the split worse if something is put in them. The planks that need replacing must be replaced, but the ones that can be saved I would be inclined to see if they will swell closed, and if they do then live with the fact that they will open up when she dries out. Though if you don’t plan on keeping her in the water for the season then a different approach will have to be taken (Nick’s plan).

  7. #7
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    Default Re: Advice on Lappstrake repair

    Thanks Nick, Yes this is the boat. I have replaced the inwales, both the sheer strakes and the rub rails and breast hooks. Also the third plank down. Will have to send you updated pics, but won't be around for a couple days. The plank I am talking about now is just above the garboard, starboard side. Thanks for all

  8. #8
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    Default Re: Advice on Lappstrake repair

    OK, here are some updated photos, They show the new inwales, sheer planks, rub rails (outwales), breasthooks, one new plank spliced in, 4th down on the starboard side. Now for the starboard side plank over the garboard. Would it be OK to do the fix as I described above or should this plank come out? I tacked the wood in below the blue tape to show you how I would do it.DSCN0817.jpgDSCN0803.jpgDSCN0799.jpgDSCN0808.jpgDSCN0814.jpgCan only post 5 pics, #2 shows the split from the inside, #3 from the outside, #4 the plank I spliced in, #5 the work I did, inwales, outwales, breasthooks, sheer plank. So looking for suggestions on how to fix this last plank.

  9. #9
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    Default Re: Advice on Lappstrake repair

    Congratulations on your pristine work with the inwales! While I agree with Nick on this, I also think it would be wise to first try minimal repair such as opted for in Ned's post #3. That would be for the crack on the lowest strake as it looks like it has been cracked for quite some time. Remember that a hard or rubber filling compound can reach a point of maximum compression and then will act as a wedge, forcing the split further apart. An oil based seam compound such as offered by Interlux, will pooch out as the crack closes and will not wedge the crack apart. In all cases ,as a rule of thumb, one should weigh the time involvement with the comparision between adding a partial new piece of wood against the effort of total replacement of a damage plank. Often the removal can create more structural damage than exists in the beginning. ie, splitting of frames ect. In all places where glue is to be used, it is a Godsend that West System has created the flexible epoxy G/flex as it will move a bit as the planking swells and shrinks and as the boat twists in a seaway. Wishing you good fortune with your rescue of a classic! Incidentally, I am a fan of Buch engines!
    Jay
    Last edited by Jay Greer; 07-12-2019 at 10:56 AM.

  10. #10
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    Default Re: Advice on Lappstrake repair

    I think that split is too long just to leave it to close up. However as it is straight, routing full depth and gluing in a spline should not be too difficult.
    It really is quite difficult to build an ugly wooden boat.

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  11. #11
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    Default Re: Advice on Lappstrake repair

    Agreed Nick, but I do believe in simple first and complex next.
    Jay

  12. #12
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    Default Re: Advice on Lappstrake repair

    Thanks guys, I will let you know how I made out. I will probably try to swell it before I launch her, which might not be for awhile, and look into G/Flex,or maybe just Dolfinite bedding compound, and see how she does. As Jay said, simple first. I still have a lot of other things to do before I will be finished. Thanks again, Tom

  13. #13
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    Default Re: Advice on Lappstrake repair

    Quote Originally Posted by tomwil View Post
    I recommend that you glue a backing pad/doubler with the grain across the plank where that sea connection goes through.
    It really is quite difficult to build an ugly wooden boat.

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