Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 36 to 50 of 50

Thread: 1956 Cochran Cruser Runabout hull rebuild

  1. #36
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Central New Jersey
    Posts
    1,032

    Default Re: 1956 Cochran Cruser Runabout hull rebuild

    Steamboat

    I get by with the judicious use of serendipity.

  2. #37
    Join Date
    Jun 2019
    Location
    sandpoint ,id ,usa
    Posts
    23

    Default Re: 1956 Cochran Cruser Runabout hull rebuild

    I have been on hold due to rain. So I can move forward by doing research on what is to come. And buy products based on that research. I made pretty good progress last weekend. I have most of the plywood sides unscrewed. The rub rails or upper strakes removed mostly in pieces ( bummer) they should be fairly easy to make. I am not sure if the wood will form as I install. Or should I get it wet do partial install (Fit it) let it dry and form then remove then seal with epoxy then reinstall with some kind of adhesive?? Are there any adhesive products that come to mind? You guys have been amazing so far and I have learned a little so far, and so much more to learn. I have been reading a thread on glassing with mat and epoxy on a deck on my breaks at work, good stuff preparing me for the bottom rebuild. Thanks for your input on fasteners above. I think I am going to go with stainless as I plan to seal the whole boat with epoxy. I found a really good deal with valuefasteners.com at about $.1 each in 1500 case for stainless square drive.

    Photo of strake

    Resized_20190620_153127.jpg

    As far as epoxies go I was looking at West Systems 105 gallon with 206A slow hardener quart. Will that be the product I need to glass the bottom, seal the plywood sides before paint and seal the deck and interior as well? should I buy more than a gallon and a quart?

    How do I achieve a finish like this?

    Resized_20190620_152605.jpg

    Do I stain before epoxy or varnish? Is epoxy needed if I spar urethane or varnish? I will probably use recommendations for interior and deck refinishing as well as the transom refinishing. I would like to keep the transom wood finish. If there is a thread that covers this that has been hashed out already please point me to it. Would I spar urethane or varnish ( is there a difference?) I cant tell the difference based on earlier threads. I just know that there are debates on putting urethane/varnish over epoxy. Is there a method of sealing the deck and interior with desired pigment and coloring that I want to achieve? When I strip the deck there will be sections of the previous varnish that have pealed and have leaved the wood unexposed to graying.

    So on the deck do I strip old varnish, re caulk seams then stain then epoxy and spar urethane or varnish. What is the difference between spar urethane and varnish? or is epoxy all I need?I just want her to look good. or should I leave it unstained? not sure what to do there.

    thanks for your help

    Dan Kremer
    Last edited by metal man; 06-20-2019 at 07:27 PM.

  3. #38
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Central New Jersey
    Posts
    1,032

    Default Re: 1956 Cochran Cruser Runabout hull rebuild

    Whatever transparent finish you use it must be marine grade, epoxy degrades quickly from
    us light exposure. Most marine grade clear to translucent finishes have a high level of vu blockers which are critical for protecting the epoxy. The link in post #36 will answer some of your questions and provide some needed background.
    Steamboat

    I get by with the judicious use of serendipity.

  4. #39
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    South Puget Sound/summer Eastern carib./winter
    Posts
    16,604

    Default Re: 1956 Cochran Cruser Runabout hull rebuild

    The stainless that you use on a boat must be 316. If you got a deal that is too good to be true it may be 304.
    I recon that boat will gobble up 15 to 20 gallons to do a complete epoxy job. I'd have on hand 205,206 and 209 . One hardener is not good for all jobs.
    Epoxy IS adhesive.
    Last edited by wizbang 13; 06-20-2019 at 11:57 PM.

  5. #40
    Join Date
    Jun 2019
    Location
    sandpoint ,id ,usa
    Posts
    23

    Default Re: 1956 Cochran Cruser Runabout hull rebuild

    Quote Originally Posted by Steamboat View Post
    Whatever transparent finish you use it must be marine grade, epoxy degrades quickly from
    us light exposure. Most marine grade clear to translucent finishes have a high level of vu blockers which are critical for protecting the epoxy. The link in post #36 will answer some of your questions and provide some needed background.
    How do I get to post #36 do you have a thread name? If this has already been hashed out I am willing to learn and read. I searched post36 and got 700 matches can you provide a link thanks

  6. #41
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Central New Jersey
    Posts
    1,032

    Default Re: 1956 Cochran Cruser Runabout hull rebuild

    What you just wrote is #40 in this thread. Post or reply number is on right side of this page. Search not required.
    Steamboat

    I get by with the judicious use of serendipity.

  7. #42
    Join Date
    Jun 2019
    Location
    sandpoint ,id ,usa
    Posts
    23

    Default Re: 1956 Cochran Cruser Runabout hull rebuild

    I have pulled the bad plywood on both sides. still need to figure out how to make the new seams for plywood joints. all the wood on the frames seem good apart from the upper transom on the port side witch I will need to replace due to rot as it is a crustal joint for structural integrity on the back end. I have ordered screws and will order epoxy tomorrow for the sides. any one know on how to bond the ply to the frames? I will be using fir ACX as nedL recommended

    Resized_20190624_160419.jpgResized_20190624_160405.jpg

  8. #43
    Join Date
    Jun 2019
    Location
    sandpoint ,id ,usa
    Posts
    23

    Default Re: 1956 Cochran Cruser Runabout hull rebuild

    All the plywood from the sides and planks from the interior that I have removed did not have any coating on the back side. was this so the wood could breath? should I seal the backside of the ply to replace and planks that I have pulled? the bilge was coated with a grey coating not sure if paint or polyurethane. I can pick up grey polyurethane deck sealer for $31/ gal at a local hardware store. if I need to seal. thanks for the input

  9. #44
    Join Date
    Jul 2000
    Location
    N.E. Connecticut.
    Posts
    6,459

    Default Re: 1956 Cochran Cruser Runabout hull rebuild

    Things look good under the ply. If it were me I would most likely use something between the ply and the frames. There are those who would tell you to use 3M 5200, and that will work, but don’t expect anyone to be able to rebuild her again, that stuff is just so permanent. I would probably use something like Sikaflex.
    You would not want the backside painted where the ply lays on a frame, so that leaves you with either marking and masking off for all the frames or painting after installation. I would also use a simple oil based enamel (Rustoleum would do fine).
    Here is what I mean by masking for the framing if you paint before.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  10. #45
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    South Puget Sound/summer Eastern carib./winter
    Posts
    16,604

    Default Re: 1956 Cochran Cruser Runabout hull rebuild

    Epoxy.
    Epoxy is what you use "between " the ply and the frames. Epoxy is what you seal the inside and the outside of the ply.
    Ned, You recommended ACX fir ?
    Geeze, get Aquatek or Hydrotek meranti ply.
    Polyurethane IS paint.
    Scarph in the sheer clamps aft with epoxy.
    Scarph the new ply on. Grind the old ply 12 to 1 scarph, glue it with....epoxy.

  11. #46
    Join Date
    Jul 2000
    Location
    N.E. Connecticut.
    Posts
    6,459

    Default Re: 1956 Cochran Cruser Runabout hull rebuild

    Well Bruce,... I understand some questions abiut ACX, but Here I think it will be more about the maintenance than the selection for longevity. And ACX is what,... probably 1/4 the cost? Certainly open to other suggestions here.

  12. #47
    Join Date
    Jun 2019
    Location
    sandpoint ,id ,usa
    Posts
    23

    Default Re: 1956 Cochran Cruser Runabout hull rebuild

    I purchased the ACX today. I have screws, west epoxy with fillers on the way. I was going to glue the frames with thickened epoxy. I also dropped my engine off in Spokane. Why did they leave the insides of the interior planks and original plywood untreated? Should I at least stain them?

  13. #48
    Join Date
    Jun 2019
    Location
    sandpoint ,id ,usa
    Posts
    23

    Default Re: 1956 Cochran Cruser Runabout hull rebuild

    Thanks guys. Every thing that I can think of for this portion of the project is on the way. except what kind of paint do I use above the waterline? what color is the blue on the sides of my boat? it is a nice color.

    So based on you guys and the west systems book that steamboat gave me Here is my plan of attack. lets get this project going.

    I will use this process. I just like a game plan to see the end result (correct me if I am wrong)

    1. sand down the old adhesive and remaining plywood from the frames.
    2. inject bad holes below the waterline with with a similar product as got rot
    3. fill holes in the frames with PC Woodys epoxy wood filler
    4. cut the ACX plywood using flat pattern layout from plywood removed. one piece of plywood came off in pieces. thinking about using cardboard to see if port side plywood flat pattern is the same as starboard
    5. not sure on this but do I wet down the ply and do minable fastening and install and wait for a few days. she has a slight curve to her
    6.epoxy the inside and edges of the plywood. one coat
    7. fasten ply with west thickened epoxy on the frames
    8. fasten ply with countersink
    9. fill screw heads with PC Willys wood putty
    10. put on three coasts of west epoxy to the outside
    11. cover it with blue paint

    Thanks guys, Is this a good game plan?
    Last edited by metal man; 06-30-2019 at 08:39 PM.

  14. #49
    Join Date
    Jun 2019
    Location
    sandpoint ,id ,usa
    Posts
    23

    Default Re: 1956 Cochran Cruser Runabout hull rebuild

    A few questions. I have been reading the Gougeon book on boat building by west systems recommended by steamboat. they recommended using LP paint for coating. What is LP paint and is there a better alternative? And where to get? pretty hard to find in the internet.

    Will coating the plywood inside with Epoxy before install inhibit me from forming the ply to its contour making it hard and unable to conform to the contours of the frames?

    Can I break the surface sanding where the frames will be?

    I have every thing here but epoxy to do this faze of the job (bummer) it is in the mail

    Paint recommendations are appreciated

    Dan

  15. #50
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    South Puget Sound/summer Eastern carib./winter
    Posts
    16,604

    Default Re: 1956 Cochran Cruser Runabout hull rebuild

    LP is Linear polyurethane. Examples are Awl grip, Emron, Interlux Perfection. Get it from Jamestown Distributors in Rhode Island, or a dozen other places.
    ACX fir ply will need to be fiberglassed. It is a lot of extra work to make it look good, to fair crap ply for the best paint. I think you should use a better ply, like "Hydrotek".
    Do not wet plywood for bending, it will take that shape easily.
    Learn to use ONE brand of epoxy, WEST. Not pc willys .
    There will be a LOT of sanding .A LOT.

    (I still think the boat is not worth fixing and you are in over your head)
    Last edited by wizbang 13; 07-03-2019 at 09:11 AM.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •