Small Boat on the Inside Passage

[Jamie Orr]

I have no pictures from the next leg because for the next couple of hours, no one dramatic thing happened, so much as conditions just increased, as if the weather gods had turned the dial from simmer to boil.

I reefed and reefed again until I was down to the third and final reef. The waves were big and foam broke from the tops of some of them.

As I lifelong surfer, I was watching the shape of the wave very carefully to figure out where the troughs might appear and when some of the waves might break or where the nodes lined up so I could cut through the low spots. I've never been in a boat that felt more like a surfboard than this day.

Eventually the waves and wind got so big that I was scared that I'd need some help. I was feathering the sail a lot and my ability to steer declined. During one really big wave and gust, I rounded up and the boat dropped into a trough. The sails hung limp for a second and I realized I was in a bad place.

I dropped the mainsail, sheeted in the mizzen to hove to. I sat there for a long time, too scared to do anything but adjust the tiller to try to avoid the crests of breaking waves. They didn't break top to bottom like a shore-break would do, but being caught sideways I think I would have been swamped.

The mizzen has always been a useful sail, but in this case, I think it really saved me from capsize.

I watched bigger boats laboring by, rocks and reefs were awash in foam.

After deciding not to call the coast guard, but keeping my radio handy, I started sailing again in a lull and surfed my way to safety in the relatively sheltered waters between Newcastle Island and the town of Nanaimo on Vancouver Island.

It's common for winds to blow in the afternoon on that stretch, they call them Qualicums, and they come all the way from the west coast of Vancouver Island - maybe through the Alberni valley. Most boats crossing the strait leave early so they can be clear before noon. Glad you made it without mishap!

Jamie

[Bruce Bateau]

Hey PNW Folks-



I'm excited to announce Present Tense, an outdoor installation of my watercolor paintings, dioramas, and words based on this voyage.

It will be in the front windows of the Lincoln Street Canoe & Kayak Museum from April 3-31.


The entire exhibit is COVID safe and is designed to be viewed in the museum's windows from the sidewalk.

I will be on site for the opening on Saturday, April 3 from 1-4pm. I hope you'll stop by to say hello and raise a glass with me.

If you can't make it, you can see some of the art on my blog.


-Bruce

[AJZimm]

Bruce,

Love your art project. Unfortunately most of us will not be able to view your art in person but I look forward to seeing it on your blog.

[Bruce Bateau]

Bruce,

Love your art project. Unfortunately most of us will not be able to view your art in person but I look forward to seeing it on your blog.

Unfortunate is true, but I still wanted folks to know. Maybe just to plant the seeds of inspiration.

There seems to be hope on the horizon...

-Bruce

[WX]

Later, I am going back to page 1 and reading this whole story.

[IanMilne]

Congratulations, Bruce, on your trip and your artwork. Your diaramas are very expressive. Thanks for the reference to Harvey's museum. I had heard of Harvey in my kayaking days, but didn't know about the museum. He put a comment on my Kotik thread, about my yellow kayak. It would be fascinating to visit the museum but that's not likely now. I will be studying the extensive information on its website. Regards, Ian

[Toxophilite]

Old thread I know But really enjoyed the reading of it. Especially like your crossing of the strait. THanks! And thanks also to Wi-Tom for bringing it to my attention.

I had similar fun crossing the strait in my friend's Eel inspired canoe yawl, Significantly heavier/bigger but had the cockpit filled a few times by gant waves crashing down the length of the boat and many trepidations as I sat in the cockpit looking at the sun shining through the iceberg green crests of the steep short waves. Up up up Down down down.

Also experienced giant whirlpools in Porlier pass trying to spin the boat around, and hit 11 knots at one point surfing down waves heading towards point grey. Couldn't leave the tiller or the waves would catch me broadside, no peeing no eating, soaking wet
I was going from Thetis back to Vancouver.
Hilariously I had made a plan to get up earlier, catch the slack at Porlier and have an easy passage back, My friend and an island local said "Don't worry about it, sleep in, You'll 'fly' back to Vancouver." That's the last time I put aside my own careful plans.

[Bruce Bateau]

Lover of Archery-

That sounds like quite a tale. Glad you lived to tell it!

This is one of my favorite pics from the Inside Passage:

It was the first clear day after many days of fog and rain. It was then that I could see the scale of my surroundings.

Thanks for the kind words about this thread. For those of you just tuning in or looking for a refresher, here are a few published stories that capture the essence of the voyage:

Some of the best pictures can be found in a story for Small Boats Monthly

I think the spirt of the journey is summed up best over at my column at 48 North Magazine:

1. Go North to Go South
2. Rowing the Rapids
3. Sailing with My Clan
4. Close to the Water
5. The Road Home (in flipbook form only- scroll through the mag)

-Bruce

[Toxophilite]

Thanks very much, I'll check those out! That's a beautiful picture, classic BC scenery and the calm gives you perfect reflections, very serene.

[Latal000]

woow, very interesting information