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Thread: Rozinante masts

  1. #1
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    Default Rozinante masts

    I was lucky to source masts and spars from an old boat. All hardware and dimension per plans! Sitka- no tot but very weathered. They should finish up nice. The main boom if a different colour and seems to have an epoxy under coat. Tried heat gin first then belt sander 120 grit. No joy! Almost like a plastic coating. Any suggestions before I hit it with 36grit?

  2. #2
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    Default Re: Rozinante masts

    Why do you need to remove the coating?

  3. #3
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    Default Re: Rozinante masts

    They are very weathered and need refinishing.

  4. #4
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    Default Re: Rozinante masts

    This is what happens when one owns a Hereschoff, the obligation to make her perfect.
    How hot is your heat?
    Define "weathered".
    It might be a clear LP rather than epoxy, like interlux Perfection.
    The other spars refinished okay?
    36 grit on a glued sitka spar...even I would not do that.
    I guess photos are needed.

  5. #5
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    Default Re: Rozinante masts

    I agree that 36 is a bit much but this stuff is hard. Main mast (picture), mizzen mast and mizzen boom are grey with very little varnish left. Easily removed with heat gun, scraper and light sanding. Main boom is coated with epoxy I think. Picture attached 83F3E764-F2A7-49CB-843E-B0A98BE2850E.jpg6BBC4F0E-8187-4054-97FE-D6A3C0C74CD6.jpg

  6. #6
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    Default Re: Rozinante masts

    It is odd that heat is not softening up epoxy, thus my guess it could be clear 2 part LP.
    More like 60 grit on an R.O..
    Old spars laid up for a long time...take a hard look at the glue !!

  7. #7
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    Default Re: Rozinante masts

    I would be tempted to try using a sharp paint scrapper or a small sharp finishing plane before using a belt sander depending on operators experience, which could gouge boom if coating is not consistent in thickness.

  8. #8
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    Barrie, Ontario, Canada
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    Default Re: Rozinante masts

    Use a propane torch. It’s better than a heat gun. Don’t worry, you won’t burn the wood.

    I used this on the sitka masts of my 1947 ketch. They are classic LFH box-construction.

    Worked perfectly. I had tried a heat gun. Useless. Not enough heat.

  9. #9
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    Default Re: Rozinante masts

    Sometimes fir, which can be a bit darker than spruce, is used in place of spruce for booms as the added weight helps them from skying in a puff. If you want to make a cut into the the stained wood a bit air powered sanding boards can be had a Harbor Freight.

    Amazon can supply you with one made by Chicago which might be a bit better. You will also need several rolls of sticky backed paper of he usual grits. On a box section spar, this kind of sander will do a fantastic job and not dig into the wood! They are now called "Straight line Sanders" but several years ago they were sold as air files. They also were a lot more reasonable in price than they are now! This is also the tool you will also want for sanding top sides so it is a good tool to have in your arsenal. This may be a good time to invest in a few air tools as they will do a good job and pay for them selves in time saved in maintenance. Try the sander first and scrape if you have to. The sander can then take off the scars from the scraper. Either way things will get better!
    Jay
    Last edited by Jay Greer; 09-29-2019 at 09:19 PM.

  10. #10
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    Default Re: Rozinante masts

    Thanks folks. I’ll try propane next Saturday, coarser grit with an oscillating sander, then move to the straight line sander recommended by Jay. I’ve never heard of this tool before - sounds perfect.it does make sense that the booms could be fir but haven’t yet seen the grain. All spars are free of rot and glued seems are good. It will be a pleasure returning them to their former glory.

  11. #11
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    Default Re: Rozinante masts

    The in line sander is nothing more than an air powered sanding board. The invention of this tool has been a boon to spar markers and fairing hull planing. To tell the truth, I am deathly against using epoxy resin as a primer under varnish as once it weathers or the surface is compromised moisture will invade under it and the stains are nearly impossible to remove. I really like shellac or thinning the first coat of varnish a bit. Sure would have saved the hassle you are experieancing right now!
    https://www.globalindustrial.com/p/p...SAAEgKvK_D_BwE
    Jay
    Last edited by Jay Greer; 09-30-2019 at 12:23 PM.

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