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Thread: Light Chebacco

  1. #141
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
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    Virginia Beach, VA
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    149

    Default Re: Light Chebacco

    I can't figure out why that picture above is rotated. Oh well - you get the idea. Anyway it seemed safer to make the cabin sides before the deck. I was particularly confused about the front of the cabin and how the sides come together around the mast. Photo Aug 07, 8 01 57 PM.jpg

  2. #142
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
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    Virginia Beach, VA
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    149

    Default Re: Light Chebacco

    It wasn’t so tough in hindsight, but it took a lot of fiddling, taking it off the boat, cutting a bit more, fitting again, etc… You can see the clamps when I finally glued on the starboard side. This is the construction paper I used to attempt a pattern for that piece (also the mallet I used for fine adjustments…).
    Photo Aug 07, 8 02 08 PM.jpg

  3. #143
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    Oct 2012
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    Virginia Beach, VA
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    149

    Default Re: Light Chebacco

    I even cut the windows. That was a trick! They still need some repair and smoothing after my jigsaw job, but I’ll leave that until later.
    Photo Aug 11, 5 27 51 PM.jpg

  4. #144
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Virginia Beach, VA
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    149

    Default Re: Light Chebacco

    I got some great advice from Jamie about mast slot design and it helped me think about how the mast pieces must go together. I read some classic posts from chebacco.com discussing weather helm. P. Bolger reportedly experienced a sail on a Chebacco and found more weather helm than he would have liked. He said moving the mast forward 3 or 4 inches wouldn’t hurt. I agonized about this for a few days, tried some different pencil marks and clamping arrangements, and settled on 2.5 inches forward of the mark on the plans.
    Photo Aug 18, 4 34 29 PM.jpg
    Photo Aug 18, 4 34 12 PM.jpg

  5. #145
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
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    Virginia Beach, VA
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    149

    Default Re: Light Chebacco

    I made the roof from 2 layers of quarter-inch. It wasn’t bad but it meant a small strip of butt-block on the underside of the aft end. I’ll probably have to reinforce that area anyway for halyard cleats in that spot.
    You can see here I also made the seats (which are not yet glued down) and also the “backrest.” In the plans, this extends upward into a vertical coaming. I’m going to attempt an angled-back coaming and attach it to the piece shown here.
    Photo Aug 20, 7 42 40 AM.jpg
    Attached Images Attached Images

  6. #146
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
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    Virginia Beach, VA
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    149

    Default Re: Light Chebacco

    I cut the hole for the companionway!
    Photo Aug 22, 9 26 22 AM.jpg

  7. #147
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Virginia Beach, VA
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    149

    Default Re: Light Chebacco

    Someone gave me an old 3-pulley bandsaw that I finally figured out how to repair. I used it to rough out the Jonesport cleat.
    Photo Sep 26, 2 26 39 PM.jpgPhoto Sep 26, 2 26 17 PM (1).jpg
    I thought about putting in a bronze pin, but I think wood will work fine and look nice too. I glued it in. Think it will work? You can also see I finished piecing the deck together. They are butt-blocked underneath. I’m going to glass the seams on top.
    Photo Oct 16, 2 48 39 PM.jpg

  8. #148
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
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    Virginia Beach, VA
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    149

    Default Re: Light Chebacco

    I wanted to make a low-ish hatch because i liked the look of this one on chebacco.com.
    low hatch.jpg
    I had trouble figuring out the order of construction and assembly. Eventually I decided to make the rails that slide and attach the front and rear faces. Here is the aft end glued in place.
    Photo Oct 16, 2 42 22 PM.jpg

    On top is just scrapwood used to keep the rails parallel and the right separation (hopefully). Here is the fore piece.
    Photo Oct 16, 2 42 53 PM.jpg
    The trouble is, with such low hatch rails, the roof gets in the way of potential cross-pieces that would hold the hatch on when the hatch is all the way forward. I’m going to try to mount a small arch-shaped beam just aft of this one pictured, with little aluminum “tongue” pieces epoxied on the bottom. (Luckily, I had some 1/16 aluminium stock which was thin enough to cut with my bandsaw.)
    Photo Oct 16, 2 42 13 PM.jpg

  9. #149
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Sound Beach, NY
    Posts
    4,357

    Default Re: Light Chebacco

    I think the wooden pin will be fine as long as it is hard wood.

  10. #150
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Victoria BC, Canada
    Posts
    565

    Default Re: Light Chebacco

    Quote Originally Posted by csmead View Post
    Someone gave me an old 3-pulley bandsaw that I finally figured out how to repair. I used it to rough out the Jonesport cleat.
    Photo Sep 26, 2 26 17 PM (1).jpg

    I put a groove in the top front end of the cleat so the anchor line could lead straight forward. In case it wanted to jump out I bolted a boom bail intended for a sailing dinghy over the groove to keep the line leading forward. Don't know if it made a big difference but between that and leaving the mizzen up at anchor she stayed head to wind at anchor, never sailed around.

    Jamie

    PS Nice looking cleat.

  11. #151
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    Oct 2012
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    Virginia Beach, VA
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    149

    Default Re: Light Chebacco

    Quote Originally Posted by Jamie Orr View Post
    I put a groove in the top front end of the cleat so the anchor line could lead straight forward. In case it wanted to jump out I bolted a boom bail intended for a sailing dinghy over the groove to keep the line leading forward. Don't know if it made a big difference but between that and leaving the mizzen up at anchor she stayed head to wind at anchor, never sailed around.

    PS Nice looking cleat.
    Thanks! I remember seeing that boom bail on a photo and wondering about it. Hmmm... Okay I'll keep that in mind.

    Quote Originally Posted by johngsandusky View Post
    I think the wooden pin will be fine as long as it is hard wood.
    Okay cool, thanks!

  12. #152
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Virginia Beach, VA
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    149

    Default Re: Light Chebacco

    I was thinking about how to finish the portlights. It's funny - I have to ask myself the question about "degree of fanciness" pretty often. While daydreaming, I often come back to the slab-sided June Bug by Bill Garden.
    Garden-18-Cat-Schooner-Nov-1945-Page-31-e1552328732357.jpg
    I mean, Chebacco is different in a lot of ways, but I feel like there are a lot of similarities in character - particularly regarding my sheet-ply version. flat-panel sides / low cuddy-cabin / no frills / ease of construction / sprung for adventure; basically a boy scout cabin that sails. So I guess that's the target.

    Back to the portlights - I want them to be simple. Bill Sampson reported (over 20 years ago on chebacco.com), "I did SYLVESTER’s portlights simply by cutting oval holes in the sides of the cabin and screwing1/8″ acrylic sheet on the inside, with some clear silicone sealant between." Jamie Orr's are brass and look awesome. Here they are from an old post, same website.
    cabin-windows.jpg
    I was thinking of 1/4" painted plywood trim on the outside, with Bill Sampson's acrylic inside. Any thoughts? Do I really use silicone to seal? I seem to remember from other posts that I should avoid silicone because it's hard to remove when replacing.
    Photo Oct 25, 4 50 41 PM.jpg

  13. #153
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Virginia Beach, VA
    Posts
    149

    Default Re: Light Chebacco

    A second question: I was thinking about what John Welsford posted recently about his (brilliant) Long Steps build. Hope you guys don't mind if I re-post it here.
    Photo Oct 23, 6 15 32 PM.jpg
    He made a rub-rail / toe-rail combination by leaving the trim just proud of the deck. I kinda like it, and even more as I look at it longer. Do you think this would work on Chebacco? The plans call for a 1/5 " rub rail and also a 3/4" toe rail. Decks have no athwartships camber.
    Last edited by csmead; 10-26-2020 at 05:06 PM. Reason: I forgot stuff.

  14. #154
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Norwich,United Kingdom
    Posts
    7,580

    Default Re: Light Chebacco

    Silicone isn't so bad for removal,at least not when you compare it to the adhesive forms of Sikaflex.I believe 3M 5200 is about the same but never having worked with it can offer no substantive opinion.There is a silicone remover that kitchen and bathroom installers use and which may be of service.

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