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Thread: Light Chebacco

  1. #36
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    Default Re: Light Chebacco

    It looks better from a distance, right? I decided to leave some curve in the top of the transom. As designed, it's straight level with a cutout for the outboard. But, like johngsandusky said, better to leave the wood on...
    Transom shaping
    Chris Smead

  2. #37
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    Default Re: Light Chebacco

    Just glue another bit of wood and re-cut. Iím an expert at it. Thatís the beauty of building in wood.

  3. #38
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    Default Re: Light Chebacco

    Speaking from experience, you'll be a lot happier and the job will go quicker if you glue on a strip of wood and then cut it to the correct thickness and bevel.
    -Dave

  4. #39
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    Default Re: Light Chebacco

    Quote Originally Posted by Andrew Donald View Post
    Just glue another bit of wood and re-cut. I’m an expert at it. That’s the beauty of building in wood.
    [heavy sigh...] Fine.

  5. #40
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    Default Re: Light Chebacco

    There are 7 "frames," including the transom, which are attached to the strongback. Only Frame 4 and the transom have vertical levels specified in the table of offsets. I tried to guess at the remaining 5. After this, I lay the side planks on the frames. It took HOURS to adjust the heights of the frames to make them look right. Since the side planks are vertical, they have defined marks from the plans for placement on the frames. These fore-aft marks on the planks lined up remarkably well with the frames.

    First panels on frames

  6. #41
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    Default Re: Light Chebacco

    You may remember I had to scale this boat so that it ended up 5" shorter than specified so it would fit in my silly garage. This part might get interesting! After cleaning up the stem, I'll have to add the outer stem, represented by its pattern here.
    First panels on frames

  7. #42
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    Default Re: Light Chebacco

    Looks like a great project.

    If I recall correctly, Steve Early built a Chebacco with his father before he built Spartina, his Welsford Navigator.

    Steve's blog is great with information about your home waters. http://logofspartina.blogspot.com/
    Skip

    ---This post is delivered with righteous passion and with a solemn southern directness --
    ...........fighting against the deliberate polarization of politics...

  8. #43
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    Default Re: Light Chebacco

    Now to some of my confusion. First of all, the stem will have to blend with the bottom panel once I can get it epoxied in place and have more confidence about its connections. I included this detail from the plans. (Can I publish this here? I hope so. Let me know if it's against the rules.) However, the bevel on the stem does not match either the front of the floor panel (too narrow) or the intersection with the side panels (too wide). Did I do this right? I mean, it's nothing some thickened epoxy and planer can't handle, but I want to make sure I didn't mess something up.
    Stem addendum
    First panels on frames
    First panels on frames

  9. #44
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    Default Re: Light Chebacco

    Now on to Frame 5, which is supposed to meet the aft surface of the centerboard trunk. I made this as a full panel based on (my interpretation of) the plans, but I was looking at some old pictures of some other builders from 20 years ago, and I think maybe it should be just the outboard parts of that panel with a piece of lumber connecting them, which forms a floor to support the floorboards. I looked at the plans again and I measured the distances and they support my theory.

    To be cut, then connected with a 2x4 on aft surface?
    First panels on frames

  10. #45
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    Default Re: Light Chebacco

    Now for the most embarrassing part. Remember that I joined the fore-most part of the floor panel with a glassed butt joint. When I started fairing the floor panel just before hoisting it onto the frames, some of the glass started to peel up. After shedding a few tears, I peeled up as much as I could and razor-knifed it off. So much for my rescue procedure on this part. Why didn't it bond? Could this be the amine blush issue I read about? I think I'll back up the joint with a (wood) butt block from inside, then sand and fair this joint again. The bottom of the boat will certainly be glassed anyway.
    First panels on frames

  11. #46
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    Default Re: Light Chebacco

    Quote Originally Posted by SKIP KILPATRICK View Post
    Looks like a great project.

    If I recall correctly, Steve Early built a Chebacco with his father before he built Spartina, his Welsford Navigator.

    Steve's blog is great with information about your home waters. http://logofspartina.blogspot.com/
    Dude, that's my favorite blog! Steve built a Chebacco? I gotta find out about this...
    Chris Smead

  12. #47
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    Default Re: Light Chebacco

    It's been a while since I built a boat, but my recollection is that I cut the stem bevel after clamping a piece of planking onto the hul to check the angle.

  13. #48
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    Default Re: Light Chebacco

    Quote Originally Posted by johngsandusky View Post
    It's been a while since I built a boat, but my recollection is that I cut the stem bevel after clamping a piece of planking onto the hul to check the angle.
    So... it changes as you go up? Wait, so if it's wider at the top and narrower at the bottom... That's confusing on the plan.

    Oh man, I think I just answered my own question... Let me guess - glue on some more wood and cut a new bevel?

  14. #49
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    Default Re: Light Chebacco

    Try a piece before you do any cutting or gluing. And don't get frustrated, we all make mistakes, especially on early efforts.

  15. #50
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    Default Re: Light Chebacco

    Quote Originally Posted by csmead View Post
    So... it changes as you go up? Wait, so if it's wider at the top and narrower at the bottom... That's confusing on the plan.

    Oh man, I think I just answered my own question... Let me guess - glue on some more wood and cut a new bevel?
    When I bought my plans Bolger wrote that the plans were just that, with no instructions. But the plans are all exactly to scale so if you haven't already, get a scale ruler and measure everything right off the plan. Each of the views of the stem have different shapes, which the scale ruler would have highlighted. I don't recall if there are any more changing bevels in your future, but the ruler will pay for itself.

    Chebacco's rule!

    Jamie

  16. #51
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    Default Re: Light Chebacco

    Jamie
    After we did the capsize and inverted test on yours a few years ago, it seemed there were a couple of places that could be sealed up and turned into tanks, one up in the bow and the two side seats. Did you ever do this or have suggestions for other mods?
    Ben Fuller
    Ran Tan, Liten Kuhling, Tipsy, Tippy, Josef W., Merry Mouth, Imp, Macavity, Look Far, Flash and a quiver of other 'yaks.
    "Bound fast is boatless man."

  17. #52
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    Default Re: Light Chebacco

    Quote Originally Posted by johngsandusky View Post
    Try a piece before you do any cutting or gluing. And don't get frustrated, we all make mistakes, especially on early efforts.
    Quote Originally Posted by Jamie Orr View Post
    When I bought my plans Bolger wrote that the plans were just that, with no instructions. But the plans are all exactly to scale so if you haven't already, get a scale ruler and measure everything right off the plan. Each of the views of the stem have different shapes, which the scale ruler would have highlighted. I don't recall if there are any more changing bevels in your future, but the ruler will pay for itself.
    Thanks, that's really encouraging. I'm loving this forum! While I was thinking about the inner stem bevel (while driving, or in the bathroom, or in a boring meeting, etc., etc....), I made the blank for the outer stem. I took framing lumber and sandwiched it between two plywood cheeks. Each of the three layers are made of two pieces, but I'm hoping that by staggering the joints it will have plenty of strength. I'll have to bevel this piece too, but want to wait until I see how it fits on the boat, as well as whether or not it clears the garage door when closed...
    Outer stem blank

  18. #53
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    Default Re: Light Chebacco

    I also glued up the centerboard and tried it out in the case. It's just pivoting on a nail here, but I wanted to see how the board fit in various positions. I wish I had better sanded the epoxy layer on the inside of the case - you can see the scratches on the board just from just a few raising/lowering simulations. It's a bit late now, of course. Hopefully I can compensate with a sturdy finish on the board itself.
    Centerboard mock up
    Centerboard mock up

  19. #54
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    Default Re: Light Chebacco

    Regarding the CB case: I feel like it needs some reinforcement, but I can't find anything specified on the plans. There will be case logs, but not up to the level of the pivot pin, i think.

    In making the CB blank, I noticed that it was heavy, and I haven't even added any lead yet! It will exert a large force on the case, all through that one pin into one spot on each side of the case, which is half-inch ply. Don't I have to add some kind of extra wood to handle twisting forces while underway? Look at dktyson's from 2015:
    dktyson 2015 centerboard and case
    Chris Smead

  20. #55
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    Default Re: Light Chebacco

    Or this one from chebacco.com:
    Chebacco.com half done
    Chris Smead

  21. #56
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    Default Re: Light Chebacco

    Will a scraper with a carbide blade not fit inside that case? Or a tool/ paddle with 40 grit paper glued on? Just to knock down the high-points creating the scratches?

    Screen Shot 2019-09-23 at 2.02.34 PM.jpg



    Just a suggestion.

    Nice to see your progress!

    Kevin
    There are two kinds of boaters: those who have run aground, and those who lie about it.

  22. #57
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    Default Re: Light Chebacco

    The pivot pin is just that - that board hangs and swings on it. But as soon as the board is side-loaded, all the forces should be taken where the board meets the bottom of the hull where the board exits the case, and at the top of the board where it bears on the inside of the case. This is a good thing. You don't do yourself any favors by making the hole for the pin really tight. As you've already imagined, that's not the best place to concentrate all the stresses a centerboard takes. That being said, it's still better to have spots like that in a boat over engineered rather than potentially weak.
    -Dave

  23. #58
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    Default Re: Light Chebacco

    if post #40 is your boat, you are making some good progress. I was going to say, before I saw that photo, that I had not seen the plans for this boat, but I would get the planks out using the ladder method off of the frames/bulkheads--but your post #40 suggests you might not have any problems with your shortened dimension. I am troubled a bit by the glass peel off in post #45--I have had that happen when I mixed by volume, rather than by weight. And I have made every mistake you can think of using ply, pox, and glass, the worst of which was getting the hardener mixture light by about 25%--leaving a miserable, poisonous molasses under a day of glass skinning. Uggh. But good job, well done. I am watching with interest. This is an ambitious project and a boat that no one can dislike when it comes to jaunty looks.
    Re-naming straits as necessary.

  24. #59
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    Default Re: Light Chebacco

    Quote Originally Posted by Breakaway View Post
    Will a scraper with a carbide blade not fit inside that case? Or a tool/ paddle with 40 grit paper glued on? Just to knock down the high-points creating the scratches?
    I hadn't thought of that! I did this with 60 grit on a piece of scrap (because I had that).
    Sanding inside CB case
    Chris Smead

  25. #60
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    Default Re: Light Chebacco

    Quote Originally Posted by Breakaway View Post
    Or a tool/ paddle with 40 grit paper glued on? Just to knock down the high-points creating the scratches
    It feels smoother, in the area I can feel, anyway. Hope that helps.

    Quote Originally Posted by Woxbox View Post
    The pivot pin is just that - that board hangs and swings on it. But as soon as the board is side-loaded, all the forces should be taken where the board meets the bottom of the hull where the board exits the case, and at the top of the board where it bears on the inside of the case.
    I read the chapter at the end of Bud McIntosh's How to Build a Wooden Boat (which I recently got because it explains how sliding hatches work). His CB trunk is surrounded by planking on both sides. It seems like the other Chebacco builders glass the inside and outside of theirs, which I imagine add a lot of strength to resist those twisting forces. I can't find any good pictures, though. Sure wish Jamie Orr would chime in on this one! In any case, I'll leave the decision until I flip the boat.

    Quote Originally Posted by davebrown View Post
    I am troubled a bit by the glass peel off in post #45--I have had that happen when I mixed by volume, rather than by weight. And I have made every mistake you can think of using ply, pox, and glass, the worst of which was getting the hardener mixture light by about 25%--leaving a miserable, poisonous molasses under a day of glass skinning. Uggh. But good job, well done. I am watching with interest. This is an ambitious project and a boat that no one can dislike when it comes to jaunty looks.
    Hey thanks! I googled "jaunty" to make sure and it sounds about right.

    About the epoxy - I think you're right. I can't find another place where the same failure happened. It must have been a badly-mixed batch. I just watched a video series by Russell Brown about epoxy and quickly realized how more systemic I need to be. As for the hull, I attached a butt-block inside and I'm going to scrape off the outer mess and re-glass the whole bottom. Carefully.
    Chris Smead

  26. #61
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    Default Re: Light Chebacco

    Quote Originally Posted by Ben Fuller View Post
    Jamie
    After we did the capsize and inverted test on yours a few years ago, it seemed there were a couple of places that could be sealed up and turned into tanks, one up in the bow and the two side seats. Did you ever do this or have suggestions for other mods?
    Hi Ben,

    No, I never made any changes, I felt that those spaces are useful for storage and the risk of a capsize is acceptably low, at least to me. If I did anything, I'd probably carry a couple of the boat rollers sold by Duckworks. They could be lashed under the side decks in the cabin and/or stuffed under those seats to provide flotation without having to cover myself with sawdust and epoxy!

    Cheers,

    Jamie

  27. #62
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    Default Re: Light Chebacco

    I can't "reply with quote" because my computer and this site aren't getting along very well, but your post #54 asked about reinforcing the centreboard case. I don't have either the boat or the plans in front of me, but as I recall the board is supported by the main bulkhead, which is in turn reinforced top and bottom with 2x4 and 2x6 (approximately) beams and the centre-cockpit frame is also reinforced with a 2x4 along the bottom. Once this is all in place there's no way the case will be able to flex.

    Have you glued up your centreboard case? If not, then consider attaching the bedlogs to the sides first as it will be a lot easier to do.

    For the pin, people have used different ways to support it and they all seem to work. I used a 1/2" diameter bronze pin, along with some 1/2" ID bronze tubing that had about a 1/8" thick wall. The tubing made great bushings for the pin, I glued it into both the board and the case sides. The pin was cut off to be flush with the outside of the case and a 1/4" plywood cap was tacked over it to take care of any weeping.

    Jamie

  28. #63
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    Default Re: Light Chebacco

    Quote Originally Posted by Jamie Orr View Post
    Have you glued up your centreboard case? If not, then consider attaching the bedlogs to the sides first as it will be a lot easier to do.

    For the pin, people have used different ways to support it and they all seem to work. I used a 1/2" diameter bronze pin, along with some 1/2" ID bronze tubing that had about a 1/8" thick wall. The tubing made great bushings for the pin, I glued it into both the board and the case sides. The pin was cut off to be flush with the outside of the case and a 1/4" plywood cap was tacked over it to take care of any weeping.
    Got it, thanks Jamie! I was going to use a gently-tightened half-inch bolt with neoprene washers (like Geoff Kerr uses in his Caledonia Yawl video).

    Quote Originally Posted by amish rob View Post
    Also, there is that keel out there helping support side loading, too.

    I don’t see as you need worry much. If it bothers you, make the pin diameter large, but I wouldn’t add any more supports (weight) or add on what’s its.
    Excellent. Thanks Rob! That's what I like to hear!
    Chris Smead

  29. #64
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    Default Re: Light Chebacco

    I've been making slow progress this fall. My goal was to flip the hull over the Christmas holiday, but that will not happen! On the other hand, I got the centerboard case glued in with the bed logs. This is the part that pokes into the cabin, with a 2x4 to butt into. I had to cut the form (frame 3) to make room. I think this is an artifact of scaling the boat's length without scaling the centerboard or case.
    Keel and filleting



  30. #65
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    Default Re: Light Chebacco

    The part of the case that pokes through the bottom of the boat became a reference for the rest of the keel, which is flat all the way aft to the rudder's location. I surrounded the case with more wood and shaped it to be slightly more hydrodynamic. It needs more shaping.
    Keel and filleting
    The keel slopes upwards toward the bow, in a different straight line:
    Keel and filleting

  31. #66
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    Default Re: Light Chebacco

    From the bow:
    Keel and filleting

  32. #67
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    Default Re: Light Chebacco

    The two keel sections fore and aft of the CB case are hollow. I have to remember to finish those drain holes. Right now they are just pin-holes so I remember where they are.

  33. #68
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    Default Re: Light Chebacco

    You're probably wondering about those gaping holes on both sides of the boat. I do plan to fill them in with plywood, but I've been trying to think it through. Payson's book says the bilge panels should join the others without much fiddling. At bulkhead #4 (the companionway bulkhead), it looks good. With a scrap of plywood:
    Keel and filleting
    But, farther forward, it seems off.
    Keel and filleting
    Keel and filleting

  34. #69
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    Default Re: Light Chebacco

    I'm planning to trim the frames a bit to make the joints easier to make and fair, but I gotta be really careful.

  35. #70
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    Default Re: Light Chebacco

    In a few weeks, I'm going to have to flip the hull over. It gets me thinking about the "trailer problem." Because of the lack of clearance in the garage (it's only an inch or so), I need a solution. The boat will live on the trailer in the garage. I've heard of the trailers that have hinges on the front to allow it to fold sideways for exactly this issue. Like this:
    https://www.etrailer.com/static/imag...13_r3_1000.jpg
    However, I'm concerned that, since the stem is going to be right up against the garage door, there won't be any room for a bow stop (is that what they're called?). Does anyone have a suggestion?

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