My H28

[Buek's]

20190420_161439.jpgyou might be able to expand this pic enough to see the seams Jay.

[Buek's]

totalboat_wet_edge_topside_paint_quart.jpgwould a paint like this work?

[James Chilman]

I painted my H28 with a house hold single pack enamel (Dulux here in Australia). It didn't level out as well as the marine ones are suppose to but the budget has been slim of late. Also I don't mind a bit of the "work boat" look.
It's lasted over a year so far with no bad effect. I do expect to re-do it a lot more often than a marine paint.
Hopefully next time I can get the proper stuff.

[IMG][/IMG]

[Buek's]

A gallon of the total boat runs $92.00 a gallon so if it keeps me from repainting every couple of years it will save me in the long run.

[Buek's]

Gorgeous H28 you have James. How many gallons did it take you to paint her?

[James Chilman]

From memory 4 liters......

[Buek's]

Thanks James maybe I'll get 4 gallons then, any extra can go towards the deck next year. I'll probably pull out the paint guns and spray her.

[jsjpd1]

A gallon should be about right. A liter is just over a quart. Personally I like regular old oil based paint, it’s easy. When it comes to repainting the boat you only need to strip the old paint if it’s peeling. If the base coat has good adhesion just give it a light sand and paint over it.

[Boatsbgood]

Yes, what Jim said, and to emphasize: if the paint film is maintained, year-to-year, you're just scuff sanding and adding a coat every so often, depending on conditions and paint used. My experience (tropics, so worst case) is alkyd enamel 1 year, one part polyurethane 2-3 years, multi part LP (Awlgrip, Sterling, others) 5-10 years. If you go past the interval and fail the coating, then you have to do what you're faced with now. For all systems, the quality of prep determines the appearance and to some degree the adhesion/durability of the coating. All are longer lasting with care not to ding/nick the coating open. Automotive-quality fairing becomes essential as one goes up the scale, with alkyd enamel the least glossy and the most forgiving.

[Buek's]

Thanks for all the info I just don't want to have to scrape it again.

[Boatsbgood]

Understand that concern! The thing is to not let the coating fail, but to sand and recoat before that happens. A boat can go many years without the total take-back-to wood you are doing. Its all about not waiting until it fails. Encapsulated construction (laminated, and glass/epoxy over) can go decades without the need to do so.
Others will know (and perhaps chime in?) more about how long a well maintained, more traditional carvel hull can go if the coatings are not allowed to fail. It looks as though your boat is worth some effort at this point, and in my view it helpful to think about boat work as a process, not a solution, and that if the process is sustained over time, the boat will live and serve well over the long term...

[cejenkinsjr]

don't want to hijack the thread but here is a recent picture the day before we lifted and flipped. havenpreflip.jpg
for what it might be worth Buek, I used Epifanes, two part epoxy, but this is cold molded, so I don't know if that would affect your decision. I rolled this on and I can't say enough good things about the epifanes products

[Jay Greer]

[QUOTE=James Chilman;5877204]I painted my H28 with a house hold single pack enamel (Dulux here in Australia). It didn't level out as well as the marine ones are suppose to but the budget has been slim of late. Also I don't mind a bit of the "work boat" look.
It's lasted over a year so far with no bad effect. I do expect to re-do it a lot more often than a marine paint.
Hopefully next time I can get the proper stuff.

James, L.Francis designed the spreaders on the H28 to swing free so as to allow a self adjusting alignment of the weather shrouds, when under load.
The system is simple and prevents gyration of the the rig from pulling the fastenings of the tang plates at the spreaders. This solves a problem that can cause a mast to fail at the spreaders. Maybe it is focal distortion but it appears that your spreaders droop a bit and that is not a good thing if it is so! The spreader tip should bisect the angle of the shroud. I hope it is just the angle of the photo!
Jay

[IMG]

[Jay Greer]

Top sides are very tight Jay. Just hate the ideal of having to rescrape and sand in a couple of years.

Normally it would be wise to spline the seams before applying Sterling or Awlgrip two part topside coating. That kind of prep is expensive but as you can see, it was successful on "Bright Star". I am glad that the former owner chose to go that route. I was concerned about the seams near the bow on your boat that appear to have cracked. But, if you are confident then, by all means go for the two part. Here is a bit of a teaser that shows our H28 after a hull buffing and bottom job. For those of you who might think the life lines are overkill, they are required for off shore PHRF racing.
Wishing you a shiny set of topsides!
Jay

[Buek's]

Cejenkinsjr u can add pictures like that anytime ot looks good.

[Buek's]

Jay you tease, I never get tired of looking at "Bright Star".

[Jay Greer]

Thanks Buek! Indeed, I never tire of looking at boats designed by LFH!
Jay

[cejenkinsjr]

Bright star! I need a smoke...

[Buek's]

I've heard him referred to a Naval artist/architect to me I think of his designs as simple elegance. That would be a cool name for one of his boats.

[Jay Greer]

"Simple Elegance" really nails it! Here is one of my favorites, "Araminta" Please excuse the small drift not really intended here!
Jay

[Buek's]

I agree there Jay and elegance really does describe her, but I think I need to when the lottery or something and hire you as a consultant and we'll build a replica of "Live Yankee".

[Buek's]

Yep we are drifting, but I'm bored and cant get out to the boat till this weekend.

[Jay Greer]

"Yankee" is the R Class sloop that was defeated by West Coast skipper Matt Walsh sailing the Ted Geary R Boat "Pirate" at the Larchmont Nationals in 1929. The next Herreshoff's design was "Live Yankee" and was innovative in that L. Francis used web framing and multiple stringers, which he called "Longitudinal Framing" just as in aircraft construction.
And yes, I am guilty of a drift here! So, lets get back to your H28. What is her name? What number is the hull?
Jay

[Jay Greer]

Bright star! I need a smoke...

"Bright Star" was her name when she was first launched. By the time we aquired her, she was named "Jin Lung" which means Lucky Dragon.
Her owner, at that time, owned a hotel in Hong Kong. We chose to give her original name back to her.
Jay

[Buek's]

Cassandra

[Buek's]

FullSizeR1.jpgFullSizeR1.jpg

[Jay Greer]

Ah, "Cassandra! That name is like music to the mind! Is that name hand lettered? Nice drop shading!

I have been racking my brain as to what kind of wood she is planked with! What comes to mind first is Bald Cypress followed by Port Orford Cedar. Scrape a few crumbs off and give it the smell test. Port Orford has a pleasant distinct perfume that no other cedar posesses. Bald Cypress is pretty neutral and was often used for barrels as it would impart no taste to the contents. Either one is stable, rot resistant and insect resistant and great for planking wooden boats! Most of our Port Orford cedar was sold off to the Japanese for the restoration of their Shinto shrines twenty years ago. They bought so much that our, remaining, trees are now an endangered species!
Jay

[Falcon1]

I can vouch for the TotalBoat Wet Edge, at least for a small boat. Easy to apply using roll and tip method.

I put on two coats over two coats of Interlux Pre-kote. When I had to scrape to get back to wood when installing a drain plug, it took some real elbow grease. It was a good hard coating.

I, too, was motivated to try it based on its being a bit less expensive. So far no problems after 3 years. Two summers of those on a mooring.

Mike

P.S. Lovely boat! Please post more photos.

[DAVID HAMILTON]

those are lovely boats. What is the colour of Bright Star's anti foul? Ive been looking for that colour here in the UK and can't get a decent one other that one of the greens from
international

[Buek's]

"Bright Star" is Jay's mine is "Cassandra", but I think it is Herreshoff green or as close as they could get. Jay will probably see this and give you an answer. That's the color I want for my bottom paint also.

[Buek's]

If I can't find it then sea foam green.

[Jay Greer]

We use Pettit Hydrocoat. It is an ablative, water based bottom paint that flows and feathers well. I find that it works very well on our H28 as it is a sluffing paint so the bottom does not end up being paint sick. It lasts close to two seasons. I like the fact that slime does not grow on the bottom either. I did find that the paint companies seem to keep changing their pigments so I went to Pettit after Interlux changed. Best thing to do is check a color card where you buy the paint. I searched a long time for Herreshoff Green. Back in the day it was called "Singapore Green". Some Imp who works for the Devil seems to be in charge of paint pigments nowadays!
Jay

[DAVID HAMILTON]

Thank you both. in England we are somewhat limited. Sea Jet does a green but its too emerald green. Ill look out for that. your boats are beautiful.

[Buek's]

Thank you Jay and you David, what's your baby/boat.

[DAVID HAMILTON]

A Holman 26, which is a cruiser/racer. Bigger than a Stella but smaller than a Twister. She was built for there commodore of the local yacht club and is fitted out in high style, all mahogany. Sadly in need of some French Polishing and general TLC.