I don't sail, so look at Paul Gartside's lugsails for lugsail ideas; they are highly peaked. They do have a boom, but a crutch attached to the side of it so the boom locates on the mast without either a vang or preventer. Todd Bradshaw has described this feature as "underused". On some of his rowboats Paul Gartside also has boomless dipping lugs for offwind sailing; they are meant to be boomed out with an oar.
About your hull:
I like the boat in the picture above a lot and it gives you a clue as to how to design a chine boat with a chine that runs high in the bow and peters out before you get to the bitter end. There is a very similar boat called Martha's Tender, drawn at ~9' or 10' has been successfully lengthened to 12".
To me this is a vast aesthetic improvement over that prominent chine low at the bow, but they say beauty is in the eye of the beerholder.
Without even knowing about this Dyer 12.5 I've come up with a similar design (also using Freeship) to be built at 10' length in origami stitch and glue technique. So far a 1:8 scale model made from 1.5mm plywood has proven the concept, but the bow was a bit of a struggle. The full size panels out of 4mm Meranti plywood are lying scarfed up on my basement floor, not yet together. A 12' boat of similar proportion could probably be built out of 1/4" or 6mm ply, if not the 5 layer marine ply (stiff), then the "Home Depot" 3 layer ply, sheathed in fiberglass on both sides. I totally get Paul Gartside's ideas about saving tropical hardwoods, expecially for an experimental boat.
Don't use underlayment to test the shape; I've got a cheap streak and worked with enough of that stuff to know that it rarely has the veneers approaching anything like equal thickness. This makes it bend quite differently from ply with more even veneer thickness.
Just buy a couple sheets of 1/4" good one side fir or whatever, make sure it has waterproof glue, cut the front 8' of the boat, drill, zip tie it up. If the shape comes together take it apart, scarf on the last 4', make it your boat. If it doesn't work, go back to Freeship for a redesign.
In that style of hull here is plenty of curvature in the bottom panel, both rocker and twist, and is should be plenty stiff. If this forum is to be trusted, the glass inside and out will confer better abrasion and impact resistance than one layer on the outside alone.
Some high density plastic wear strips on the bottom wouldn't go astray if you are planning on dragging it on the ground. So far I've used that stuff only on dog sled runners but it will go on any boat I build for use in the real world, they call this island The Rock for a reason.
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