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Thread: Rabl Titmouse Restoration

  1. #71
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
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    Vancouver BC Canada
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    Default Re: Rabl Titmouse Restoration

    There are complications, hardware of course, and I'm not sure if the trim on the front edge is on top of the added faux decking or if the faux decking butts up against it. probably the latter one would hope. For the most part is really is only lifting on the port side. I was initially going to replace about 6ft of that edge.

    A different question, I'm just finishing up wooding the bow up to a few inches past the waterline,I have about 5% of teh 'detailing ' left to go(all the corners and crannies the sanders can't get too.
    On this sort of boat would it be bad to try a heat gun on the interior paint? My worry is the softwood strip planks and the sheathing on the outside being affected. The strip planking is supposed to be 5/8" thick at least according to the plans.
    Last edited by Toxophilite; 11-22-2018 at 01:48 AM.

  2. #72
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
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    Northern Europe
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    9,594

    Default Re: Rabl Titmouse Restoration

    If you are using the heat gun properly, as in just being in one place long enough to strip the paint, it should not be a problem. I stripped a whole 25ft plywood boat in and out with a heatgun, and then was told by a so called knowledgable passer-by, that you should never use a heat gun on plywood as it breaks down the glueline.....utter tosh with proper marine ply. Only thing i would say, some people talk about the melted compounds getting into the timber and spoiling the epoxy bond, it really does depend on the paint, many being oil based; an acetone wash wouldnt hurt if there is any contamination, and give it time to dry out.

  3. #73
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
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    Vancouver BC Canada
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    Default Re: Rabl Titmouse Restoration

    Thanks
    I'm going to give it a try in small area and see if it's less messy than sanding which is very effective and relatively quick but hugely messy. As far as physical difficulty it would probably be a toss up. Both scraping and using machines for length periods are hard on my guitar playing hands and arms. I play semi-professionally so it's a concern.

    I've been using stripper in areas that it's particularly hard to get a sander and the paint is not scraping off easily so I've been soaking stuff into the wood anyway. I might be venturing to wood out the entire interior to really start anew. I have the time, it's a little nuts but what the heck.

  4. #74
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    Nov 2010
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    Vancouver BC Canada
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    Default Re: Rabl Titmouse Restoration

    Heat Gun! Heat Gun! rah rah rah!

  5. #75
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    Nov 2010
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    Vancouver BC Canada
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    Default Re: Rabl Titmouse Restoration

    What I meant to say was that I tried the heat gun today and compared to sanding, it was physically easier without creating a giant world encompassing dust mess and probably went almost as fast. It didn't take much heat to make the paint cheese-like for easy scraping, the wood was warm underneath but no heat seemed to transfer to the sheathing on the outside. I'll probably wear an organic vapour mask or at the least have the garage doors open and some fans going.

    I have a fiull dimension 2x8 x5' clear quatersawn fir board that I got for free from work for a bowsprit.
    i heard the Alaskan yellow cedar was better.There's a fellow on the local craigslist selling 5, 1.75 x 5.5 x 5' boards for $50, a couple of which are almost clear. He said he'd sell me one for $25 (yay, thanks!)

    Worth it to have yellow cedar over fir?? This is a trailer sailor.

  6. #76
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Vancouver BC Canada
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    362

    Default Re: Rabl Titmouse Restoration

    What would be a good way to approach this crack in the transom, It is largely below/behind the rearmost frame(you can't see it inside the boat)
    The previous owner drilled a hole through the sheathing and the mahogany transom to let water out. To me bailing wiping and a proper tarp would've been a better method.
    the crack seems to stem from this hole and the sheathing is very slightly lifted in the worst area near the hole. The mahogany on the inside looks goo, so unless the outside of the transom is hellacious it would be nice to strip the sheathing and re-sheath it with cloth and clear west and maybe some USV protecting varnish.
    .
    Keeping that mind as a desired option, what would be a good approach? reef out and fill with epoxy and mahogany dust?

    The crack is into the wood and not just the sheathing.
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  7. #77
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
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    Pennsylvania
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    8,238

    Default Re: Rabl Titmouse Restoration

    I'd say your plan is fine.
    -Dave

  8. #78
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Vancouver BC Canada
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    Default Re: Rabl Titmouse Restoration

    Ground out the transom crack down to the wood to have a look
    Didn't get any itches, the sheathing looks glass-like but I imagine it all does
    It seems a shame to sheath and paint an all mahogany transom
    It would probably look very handsome finished bright

    Also measured the plank thickness for the bottom crack which would come to about 7/8" as it sheathed I will probably set my panel saw at around 3/4 - 13/16" as the sheathing etc. with be adding a little and I'd rather not cut the frame at all if I can help it. The weather is going to warm up on the weekend here so I plan to fill that crack then.\

    Did some more wooding out of the interior and the combings with heat gun and scraper.
    At the lowest point (amidships) it's about 7" above the water.
    I also did some craping the the underside of the decks where the paint if flaking the most.

    i'm tempted to wood out the frames and finish them bright but paint the hull

    the mahogany transom would look fine finished bright inside too

    I have a question regarding the seat support going across the stern at frame 1
    Would it be okay to remove it?
    It looks like it's providing some structural support but is it critical. It would make working on the stern easier and I might opt for just side benches anyway, eventually
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  9. #79
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    Nov 2010
    Location
    Vancouver BC Canada
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    362

    Default Re: Rabl Titmouse Restoration

    The weather has warmed a little so I'm going to go repair the bottom cracks in my boat, I will CPES when it arrives in mid december.

    First I will be cutting a 1/8" kerf with my panel saw along the crack the depth of the plank

    After that my instinct is to grind away the paint, and maybe the sheathing about 1/8 - 1/4" on ether side of the crack before mixing up some thickened epoxy and filling
    The other approach might be to JUST fill the crack from above and leave the surround sheathing etc alone

    Either way I would have tape on the outside of the hull to prevent the epoxy from sagging in the crack

    - How does this sound??

    -Should I grind around the crack or no?

    - and will it be at all necessary to re-sheathe this narrow strip?

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