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Thread: Converting Cold-Molded to Clinker

  1. #1
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    Question Converting Cold-Molded to Clinker

    Hello all,

    I'm seriously looking at building a Joel White Marsh Cat. On the Wooden Boat Store page it states that although the plans are for cold-molded construction there are alternate methods like lapstrake. I've only built lapstrake boats and I love the look. My question is how do I go about converting plans for a round-bottomed, cold-molded boat to developing the planks, etc. I know it's possible (see pic), I just have no idea how to do it. I'm pretty tech savvy and a decent boat builder, so I'm sure I could pull it off. Please advise. Also, I apologize if this topic has been covered previously. I searched and was not able to find any info using the key words I could come up with. Thanks in advance...

    Ned-2043.jpg

  2. #2
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    Default Re: Converting Cold-Molded to Clinker

    Set up your moulds and stem - stern.
    Decide how many strakes you want, and divide the stem up into that many equal hood ends. Some builders allow the garboard to run a bit higher to prevent the next strakes having too much hang.
    Then do the same for midships and the transom, but make the bottom strakes a bit wider than at the turn of the bilge and above.
    Then run battens round your three marks, lining off on each mould. Stand well back and look at it to see if it looks sweet. Tweak as necessary. If you set up inverted, stand with your back to the boat, bend double and look at it between your legs, then it will be the right way up in your brain. This can make a difference.
    Then add the lap widths as appropriate and spile your planks to the final marks.
    Then as proof of concept build a scale model out of card.
    It really is quite difficult to build an ugly wooden boat.

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  3. #3
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    Default Re: Converting Cold-Molded to Clinker

    Welcome to the Forum. Do as Nick says. The keel and stem might be a bit different, though, if you're using a rabbet to land the garboard and hood ends of the planks. Cold molded, the laminates usually overlay an inner stem/keel and an outer stem/keel is put in place after the mold-molded laminates are all in place. Of course, that can be done with regular lapstrake (clinker) building also.
    I was born on a wooden boat that I built myself.

  4. #4
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    Default Re: Converting Cold-Molded to Clinker

    That was the 5 minute version.
    For the longer how to, beg, borrow or buy a copy of this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Clinker-Boa.../dp/0713636432
    It really is quite difficult to build an ugly wooden boat.

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  5. #5
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    Default Re: Converting Cold-Molded to Clinker

    Quote Originally Posted by Peerie Maa View Post
    That was the 5 minute version.
    For the longer how to, beg, borrow or buy a copy of this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Clinker-Boa.../dp/0713636432
    I was able to get that book from my local library here in AZ. they borrowed it from a library in Washington state through a inter-library transfer.

  6. #6
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    Default Re: Converting Cold-Molded to Clinker

    Quote Originally Posted by eggman918 View Post
    I was able to get that book from my local library here in AZ. they borrowed it from a library in Washington state through a inter-library transfer.
    Good isn't it.
    It really is quite difficult to build an ugly wooden boat.

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  7. #7
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    Default Re: Converting Cold-Molded to Clinker

    Ha! I was just about to ask if there was a specific book that might contain the specific info I need. It's in my shopping cart! Thanks!

  8. #8
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    Default Re: Converting Cold-Molded to Clinker

    Quote Originally Posted by Peerie Maa View Post
    Good isn't it.
    Very good, well worth the read.

  9. #9
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    Default Re: Converting Cold-Molded to Clinker

    Iain Oughtred's book ';Clinker Plywood Boatbuilding Manual' has a section discussing how to measure and setup a lapstrake hull.
    See Chapter 3 'Lining Off'.

  10. #10
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    Default Re: Converting Cold-Molded to Clinker

    Look at lots of clinker boats, work out what you like and how you like the plank lines to run and how many planks.
    '' You ain't gonna learn what you don't want to know. ''
    Grateful Dead

  11. #11
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    Default Re: Converting Cold-Molded to Clinker

    Given that's she's pretty beamy (more wave making resiatnce) I'd be inclined to keep it cold molded so it's quieter through waves. It will also have less wetted area without the laps, which actually adds up to quite a significant amount when you measure it. If you want a Marsh cat i'd take the opportunity to learn cold molding while you're at it. If you can do that, the world is your oyster. It's the only boatbuilding method that gives you an optimum hull stiffness to weight accross all size ranges: it's the only boat building method that is fully scalable, and you can then your exceptional American/ Canadian cedar WRC/ WYC woods rather than some African Occume. Cutting floors and bulkheads will be simpler too. I'd stick to plan A, especially with a Joel White boat.

  12. #12
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    Default Re: Converting Cold-Molded to Clinker

    Quote Originally Posted by Edward Pearson View Post
    Given that's she's pretty beamy (more wave making resiatnce) I'd be inclined to keep it cold molded so it's quieter through waves.
    Maybe he like the sound, I know I do :-)

    I think this is a good source for what you ask. http://www.boat-building.org/learn-s...x.php/en/wood/ Especially the videos. btw I am planning to build a cold-mold-design i lapstrake myself. Are you talking about a glued lapstrake or traditional buildt?

    Regards Fred

  13. #13
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    Default Re: Converting Cold-Molded to Clinker

    How I was taught to measure the strake widths for the molds and stem/stern respectively.
    bordindeln.jpg
    /Mats
    Yes the avatar depicts me; yes I drew the comic boat pic, it's a joke on the pop song I'm not a robot by Marina and the diamonds

  14. #14
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    Default Re: Converting Cold-Molded to Clinker

    Actually, that's a really damn good point. I may have to seriously rethink the cold-molding option.

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