Building Ninigret

[timo4352]

I guess I don't like it much either. I'd rather be cutting and assembling frames right now.
I did try this rabbet stuff out this morning, and I'll say I almost got there...
I can see how this should work, but I missed something along the way... I just wasn't getting a fair line...
Now my brain hurts again
So in the end I think I am just going to stick with my two piece stem idea -- and probably cut my bevels once it is set up.
Easier all around.
I took off my planking thickness off of my body plan instead to make some actual forward progress...
New thickness planer due to arrive tomorrow -- so I should be ready to start cutting frames.

[timo4352]

Took a ride out to Homestead Hardwoods this morning. Picked up some white oak for the stem and keel, and two sheets of 3/8 Meranti for the frame gussets.
We weighed a sheet of Bruynzeel and Meranti while I was there to compare:
Bruynzeel was 33 pounds
Meranti was 36 pounds...
So I thought - heck I can use Meranti because the weight difference is minimal.....but then when I got home I weighed the sheets I brought home and they are 40 pounds a piece....
So now I wonder if there is a range of weights for the Okoume Bruynzeel too....?
Still no cigar there. Still don't know what I'll do.
My WO piece I got for the stem was $113 for a 2" X 7" X 9 foot long.. vertical grain... it is a beautiful piece....it better be....
I bought flat sawn 2 X 6" 's for the keel that I will be cutting in inch thick strips and laminating.
Either this oak is seriously heavy, or I am getting seriously weak in my advancing age.

[Thad]

what is WO, 46#/cubic foot, maybe 52. 2 x 7 = 14 x 12 = 168. 1cu ft = 1728 cu in /168 = c.10 1/4 ft of 2" x 7", so more than 40# in that 9' stick. Have fun!

[timo4352]

Yeah you're just about right!
In the very low 40's.
Man,... 40 pounds used to be nothing.... now?
Sh!t
I am getting old.
I need a Red Bull. or a beer. or both.

[Rumars]

Okoume ply will have a much greater chance at better weight consistency. "Meranti" is a group of species and your only indicator for weight is colour, darker means heavier (also better rot resistance). But all wood products will experience some variation, it's unavoidable.
Your WO seems right on the spot for published median density (asuming it's 12-14% dry).

[jim_cricket]

Regina was the trade name for sapele plywood in those days, like Occume really means gaboon. So the sapele panels were already quite a bit heavier than the gaboon panels. You won't go wrong with meranti. It is stronger and more rot resistant than occume.

[timo4352]

Thanks Jim.
That's good to know.
Now I feel like I'm on the seesaw again...
I would prefer the meranti for those reasons...
all except the okoume is said to bend easier...
Here we go again....on the seesaw...

[timo4352]

So I finally got to cutting some wood.
I remeasured a few times; and redrew the stem again to hopefully make sure I'm cutting in the right spot for my two piece, or false stem.
I traced my stem onto clear laminating film, which I guess is just like mylar, or close enough, to work. Used my wife's pattern cutter wheel thingy from her sewing box to transfer through the mylar pattern on to some scrap 1/4 inch ply.
Then of course after shaping the patterns - used those to trace onto the white oak stem blank.
Last year I bought a Craftsman 12 inch bandsaw and an old Craftsman jointer at an estate sale. First I have really used the bandsaw. After some quick setup and a blade change to a 4 TPI blade I cut the stem pieces. Man the thing worked great! Cut right through that 2 inch oak no problem. Oh I got a Wen planer - works great too and the price was more than reasonable IMO. Less than $250.
No pics, but it did happen ... still working on getting those stem pieces to their final dimension.
Officially started I guess...

[Breakaway]

Woo-hoo!!

Kevin


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[timo4352]

I think I'm done final shaping the stem joint. First started test fitting the joint with a scrap of copy paper - that measured .004
So I got out the feeler gauges, and a few swipes with a scraper here and there and I am as close as I think I dare make it without screwing it up.
The .004 feeler gauge will not fit fully through anywhere along the joint.
I think I have got to be happy with that and move along to the next step.
So the big question is -- what should I glue the joint with? I am going to put 4 bolts in the joint as shown on the plans...

[Gib Etheridge]

If you're going to plank first then plane the ends of the planks to conform with the inner stem then apply the outer stem you will be dealing with end grain which glues up better with epoxy.

White oak is best glued with G-Flex, but if you want to get it off more easily someday you might try Sika 291.

[timo4352]

stem2.jpg

stem joint.jpg

Yes, I was thinking G-Flex too because of the whole white oak epoxy thing...But then if my fit is considered close enough maybe I could use resorcinol... or 5200...
No problem with epoxying thicker members (2 inch) like this ?
I'm thinking with four bolts in the joint that 5/16" bolts should be sufficient.

[Gib Etheridge]

Nice work Tim.

I think that 5/16ths and G-Flex will net an indestructible stem.

[jpatrick]

If you are going to use epoxy, you could have saved a lot of fit-up work. Bandsaw surfaces are perfect for epoxy. Any smoother and it is best to scarify them using a toothed scraper. Epoxy likes a gap. Glues like Titebond, on the other hand, like a close fit and lots of pressure. Your stem has a lot of long grain in that joint so Titebond backed with bolts would be OK, I would think. If you use epoxy, the bolts are not necessary.

By the way... I'm referring to thickened epoxy, not neat.

Jeff

[Falcon1]

Yeah, that looks pretty darn good. I would think flexible epoxy would be perfect. Could maybe get away with three bolts, even? Of course Atkin knew a bit more than I.

[Falcon1]

BTW, it's great to see you start this project. I'll be following with interest.

Mike

[timo4352]

It seems like forever since I have posted any progress here.
Just glued up the last piece for my laminated keel,... skeg... (whatever I should call it...)
Then once I get the lofting cleaned off again, and put down some fresh clear plastic sheeting, I can start building frames.
Pics when the shop is a bit cleaner...

[timo4352]

IMGP0248.jpg
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...not too embarrassed to show now with the area cleaned up a bit...

The most of it was built up flat right on top of the lofting. Plastic sheeting kept me from gluing it on there for good.

[Breakaway]

Nice, Timo. Good to see progress!

Kevin

[jim_cricket]

Thanks for updating Tim. You’re rolling now!

[Howard Sharp]

So glad to see someone building Ninigret, one of my favorite designs. I've never had problems with oak and epoxy, just remember to rough up the surfaces, use unthickened epoxy first to soak into the surfaces before adding the thickened stuff. First job I had in a boatshop was using 2"-6" wide strips of 1/4" ply to build up the forefoot of a ChrisCraft rebuild. We used four layers, laid diagonally to each other. In your case it would be three. The original ChrisCraft had a planked bottom, so it was a very tight curve, but the rebuild came out beautifully. You have to do what it takes.

[timo4352]

It has been a while...but I have made a little progress...working on the well...
I decided on 3/8" galvanized pins, 4 inches long, between the boards for the front of the outboard well. The pins go in two inches each end, and I glued with G-flex epoxy.
Settled on the pins, or drifts, after reviewing one of Louis' videos. He used Boatlife. I'm going with G-flex.
I figured the skeg is all G-flex, so this can be too.
welltransom.jpg

The boards are 1-1/2" thick by 5-1/2" wide white oak --- over length right now at about 23 inches. Will be narrowed some once I settle on the final width.
The black marks are from the fence on my jointer.

[Falcon1]

Looks sturdy.

I think an outboard in a well is a great idea. I was watching some video years ago where Doug Hylan had finished a nice boat with that solution.

Probably on Off Center Harbor.

Rock on!

[timo4352]

...and 2 and a half months after I said I was ready to start cutting frames...
...I started on them today.
Moving along...
Slowly

[Breakaway]

Keep it up. It'll get built one cut and fit at a time.

Kevin

[timo4352]

It really feels good to be building a boat again.
I guess I missed it more than I thought...
Making lots of sawdust, shavings, and even a few frames, the apron, etc.
If I keep up my current pace I may be setting up the frames in a month or so...
...got my eye on a new Suzuki 25hp four stroke...

[timo4352]

Five frames done.
A frame a day seems to be about my pace.
Slow and steady wins the race.

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[Gib Etheridge]

I don't always have anything to say but I'm always watching and enjoying.

[jpatrick]

Good to see progress. It strikes me that either your frame stock is very slight or mine has been very heavy. I'd like to hear other's opinions.

Jeff

[timo4352]

The plans call for 5/8 X 2-1/2" white oak.
I'm using Douglas Fir 3/4".

[jpatrick]

The plans call for 5/8 X 2-1/2" white oak.
I'm using Douglas Fir 3/4".

Sorry. You said frames and my brain thought molds.

Jeff

[Ewan G Kennedy]

There's a lovely example of a Ninigret here in Argyll and she's proved a great seaworthy little ship over several years. I've added a photo of her, with the skipper taking aim at his son, who seems rather unconcerned.

[MADOC1]

just found this thread and am enjoying it, thx. keep up the pics of your progress please..

jim

[timo4352]

Big day for Ninigret!
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25hp EFI electric start. power trim & tilt
Comes with everything - even a gas tank.
I'm a tiny bit pumped!

[Breakaway]

Big day for Ninigret!
IMGP0267.jpg

IMGP0269.jpg

IMGP0274.jpg

25hp EFI electric start. power trim & tilt
Comes with everything - even a gas tank.
I'm a tiny bit pumped!

Congrats!

FWIW, I run Suzukis and have been pleased.

Kevin


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