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Thread: Restoring a wooden v-dory need help

  1. #1
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    Default Restoring a wooden v-dory need help

    Hey all,
    i currently bought a new project, it's a 20'6"x8'3" v-dory or work skiff, it's 3/8 ply with fir str stringers and oak railing. The outside of hull is painted, inside was done with varnish (I think) but not much left, just bare wood.

    What would be the best inside finish, spar varnish? Paint? Epoxy? Cepes?
    what aboat outside ,bring it down to wood, then epoxy ,then paint or just paint.
    What would a recommend hp for outbourd be.
    Needto build floor. Foam?solid deck ? Wood planking?
    Has no bilge drain. Self bailing deck?
    Im leaning on setting it up as a tiller, open seating for crapping and fishing.
    any ideas would be great!

  2. #2
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    Default Re: Restoring a wooden v-dory need help

    Photos are needed here.
    ..but I have found that open seating is not conducive to crapping .
    bruce

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    Default Re: Restoring a wooden v-dory need help

    Yes, photos. Can't help without them. Crapping? V and dory don't usually go together in a description. If it has a v bottom it probably is not a dory. Get busy and post some pics.

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    Default Re: Restoring a wooden v-dory need help

    This one is not good Iíll get more. Should have had my coffee before posting lol, crabbing not crapping
    Attached Images Attached Images

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    Default Re: Restoring a wooden v-dory need help

    Quote Originally Posted by wizbang 13 View Post
    Photos are needed here.
    ..but I have found that open seating is not conducive to crapping .
    bruce


    Very cool boat Todd!
    I would go with at least 25HP outboard.
    1955 Fontana 18' - 1958 Atomic 4
    1960 Skippy 12C FeatherCraft - 1947 Mercury KD4 Rocket
    1985 Glen L15 - 1980 Johnson 7.5 hp
    2016 kayak Mill Creek 13

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    Default Re: Restoring a wooden v-dory need help

    Nice skiff! I always like an outboard well.

    Hmmm,.... 20 feet, 25 hp may be at the bottom end. Maybe from there up to 50 hp.

    From what we can see it looks like maybe the inside was oiled (lindseed oil).

  7. #7
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    Default Re: Restoring a wooden v-dory need help

    I call that a semi dory. (but I'm not a dory expert)
    I'd recon 40 ish hp.
    3/8ths ply kinna light for her, but that's no big deal .Maybe the builder did not foresee beating her up on a beach and just wanted to keep her light.
    You want to ascertain if you need short or long shaft OB. Measure from the top of the well to the bottom of the bottom.
    CPES is good thing for the inside , in my book. Even if she has has linseed oil or some other coating, that CPES gets INTO nooks and crannys. You can use almost anything over it.
    The outside looks fine, is the fir checked or is it sheathed(fiberglassed)?She might only want a bit of sanding and a few light coats of Kirby's.
    Your intended use would speak to whether you want to install a self bailing cockpit. I might just go with an oversize bilge pump. (rule 3700)Same with foam.Built in foam tends to rot ply boats over time. On the other hand, positive flotation is a big safety item .
    Nice Skiff indeed!
    bruce

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    Default Re: Restoring a wooden v-dory need help

    Quote Originally Posted by nedL View Post
    Nice skiff! I always like an outboard well.

    Hmmm,.... 20 feet, 25 hp may be at the bottom end. Maybe from there up to 50 hp.

    From what we can see it looks like maybe the inside was oiled (lindseed oil).
    I was going for the min. HP.
    I was plaining on my Glen L 15' with 7.5hp motor - recommended by designer.....but could use 15hp and run it half trottle. I guess depends what Todd wants to use the boat for.
    Last edited by 2dogsnight; 08-08-2018 at 10:10 AM.
    1955 Fontana 18' - 1958 Atomic 4
    1960 Skippy 12C FeatherCraft - 1947 Mercury KD4 Rocket
    1985 Glen L15 - 1980 Johnson 7.5 hp
    2016 kayak Mill Creek 13

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    Default Re: Restoring a wooden v-dory need help

    Thanks for the reply guys,
    I was thinking 70 or 90 hp. But if I could get away with smaller motor that would be good, I’ll be salmon fishing, bottom fishing and crabbing , I’ll be crossing the bar with it. I have 115 hp 1989 2 stroke I could put on it. Don’t know if that’s to big. The fir ply is checked was thinking of sanding then usin epoxy faring. Then paint. I’m scared of the foam.

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    Default Re: Restoring a wooden v-dory need help

    With 3/8” ply I’m not sure I’d want to push her too hard.

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    Default Re: Restoring a wooden v-dory need help

    Interesting project, would love to see more pics

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    Default Re: Restoring a wooden v-dory need help

    Is the bottom glassed? May want to replace rollers on the trailer with bunks...?
    Would like to hear what the experts will say to the crossing the bar in it , etc.
    Fallowing with a great interest here !

    Wojo
    1955 Fontana 18' - 1958 Atomic 4
    1960 Skippy 12C FeatherCraft - 1947 Mercury KD4 Rocket
    1985 Glen L15 - 1980 Johnson 7.5 hp
    2016 kayak Mill Creek 13

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    Default Re: Restoring a wooden v-dory need help

    Good call on replace rollers with bunks, no glass on bottom

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    Default Re: Restoring a wooden v-dory need help

    you might want to glass the bottom up to the waterline, maybe tape the seams at the chines and transom?

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    Default Re: Restoring a wooden v-dory need help

    You say it's a V-dory but sure looks like a flat bottom skiff. A very cool flat bottom skiff, for sure. A lot like a Simmon's Sea Skiff, only a little chunkier maybe in the beam and freeboard, less sheer. As somebody else said, if it's 3/8 construction, I'd be a little leery about a 115 on it if I hadn't built it myself, that plus the self-punishing flat bottom. . . You'll be getting a lot of air with that motor on it and some kidney-busting landings. At 20 feet, I think 40 would plane it in most conditions but I think I'd go 50 or 60 to make sure of decent performance with a load in it. 20's a pretty big boat. And you mention crossing "the bar"... I'm thinking you need some grunt to get out of any kind of broaching situation for what is it, a big standing wave kind of thing?

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    Default Re: Restoring a wooden v-dory need help

    How I’m I going turn this over to work on hull

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    Default Re: Restoring a wooden v-dory need help

    Quote Originally Posted by earling2 View Post
    You say it's a V-dory but sure looks like a flat bottom skiff.
    The transom looks to have deadrise, so not flat bottomed.
    It really is quite difficult to build an ugly wooden boat.

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    Default Re: Restoring a wooden v-dory need help

    Quote Originally Posted by Todd krost View Post
    How Iím I going turn this over to work on hull
    A gang of mates working for beer. Pulleys and rope from your garage roof trusses. Run a search "turning boat hull" and see what comes up
    https://www.google.com/search?q=turn...ient=firefox-b
    It really is quite difficult to build an ugly wooden boat.

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    Default Re: Restoring a wooden v-dory need help


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    Default Re: Restoring a wooden v-dory need help


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    Default Re: Restoring a wooden v-dory need help


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    Default Re: Restoring a wooden v-dory need help


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    Default Re: Restoring a wooden v-dory need help


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    Default Re: Restoring a wooden v-dory need help

    So what you guys think.

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    Default Re: Restoring a wooden v-dory need help

    Nice looking boat, have you poked around nooks and corners looking for rot?
    I use two comealongs, one hooked to the bow eye and one to an eye bolt in the transom
    to lift and spin the boat. Easy to do by yourself, then set it down on a pair of low saw horses
    or milk crates, whatever you have and bobs yer uncle. If you drill for an eye bolt in the tranny
    it is a simple fix to fill it after all the flipping is done. I would sand the chines, bow stem and
    tranny corners and tape them at the very least. Nice boat.

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    Default Re: Restoring a wooden v-dory need help

    I do not like the engineering/ construction of that well at all. It looks more like house carpentry than boat carpentry.
    I see that a substantial OB has been bolted up before, but I cannot imagine how the well transom took and strain of thrust or torque(turning).I feel it needs knees going forward from the motor and knees laying sideways inside the well.
    Flipping her...I agree with Oldad. You have roofters there to take advantage of,use em.
    How fast of a boat you expect her to be? It's barely a planing boat I think.
    bruce

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    Default Re: Restoring a wooden v-dory need help

    It’s 1” plywood. Looks pretty good to me remember it’s a work boat not a museum boat

  29. #29
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    Default Re: Restoring a wooden v-dory need help

    Bruce was talking about strength not the looks ��.
    Trust him, he knows a thing or two about boats.
    1955 Fontana 18' - 1958 Atomic 4
    1960 Skippy 12C FeatherCraft - 1947 Mercury KD4 Rocket
    1985 Glen L15 - 1980 Johnson 7.5 hp
    2016 kayak Mill Creek 13

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    Default Re: Restoring a wooden v-dory need help

    033.jpg035.jpg039.jpg

    Nice boat. Two can roll a 20'er by hand, 4 is a quick walk in the park.21'4" above with me and a 16 yr old. Tires or pieces of foam to land on. Not a big deal.
    Good luck with the project.
    Edit-Oops, sorry Todd,missed the whole garage set of pics. Trusses make turning easy as stated above.
    Last edited by caplyle; 08-12-2018 at 11:00 PM.
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    Default Re: Restoring a wooden v-dory need help

    Thanks that’s a sweet boat, what do u power your 20’ with,
    my boat was built by a boat builder in Alaska, ray marine, they were built for work, so if I but knees forward that’s easy, but inside the well I’m lost , could you draw a pic or explain more, i didn’t mean to doubt he’s Knowledge, it just looks stronger than most motor wells I’ve seen on flat bottom dorys, I was thinking of putting on a 70 hp Yamaha 4 stroke, I was going put a drain plug in her any idea s

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    Default Re: Restoring a wooden v-dory need help

    IMG_1112.jpgIMG_1109.jpgIMG_1116.jpg006 (2).jpg007 (2).jpg

    Todd I will set my skiff on heavy duty sawhorses for a bottom job/repaint. Able to do it solo from trailer by lowering tongue inserting horse under stern, raising tongue.Tie off stern, slowly pull trailer ahead,than place forward horse. Again your trusses or beam in shop simplify process.
    Remain In Neutral And Move On To The Next Target

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    Default Re: Restoring a wooden v-dory need help

    Quote Originally Posted by Todd krost View Post
    if I but knees forward that’s easy, but inside the well I’m lost , could you draw a pic or explain more, i didn’t mean to doubt he’s Knowledge, it just looks stronger than most motor wells I’ve seen on flat bottom dorys, I was thinking of putting on a 70 hp Yamaha 4 stroke, I was going put a drain plug in her any idea s
    Knees from the floor of the boat to the front of the well tying in the frame there, and knees in the inside corners of the well. You are going to want to tie the well into the boat and its structure. The well is just kind of freestanding there instead of being appropriately braced, especially for something as heavy and powerful as a 70hp 4 stroke.

    Look around online at motor wells and see how they are substantially tied into the hull through thwarts, frames, knees, etc.

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    Default Re: Restoring a wooden v-dory need help

    Caplaye, what size outbourd u got on your boat speed etc.? It's sweet looking

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    Default Re: Restoring a wooden v-dory need help

    As far as I can tell from the photos your "Oregon Dory" is typical of the type in design & construction - which is to say it's likely as good as the hundreds of others that have been built - except for the V bottom which would make it unsuitable for beach work. Does the V extend all the way to the transom? I assume the bottom is thicker than 3/8 although that would be typical for the sides. I don't understand the comments about the well needing reinforcement - that's how they were built (I built one in the late 70's & and another skiff with a well in the late 80's) if you think of the sides of the well as knees tied into the transom that construction is very strong...plus it's already been tested. Unless you find rot or other structural issues I think you just have a refinishing job. In theory a self draining deck is great but the enclosed space is a rot trap, it adds weight & the working height makes it easier to fall out out of the thing without adding grab rails. The Oregon Dory is a fairly primitive design - nothing fancy but hard to improve on given the example of their successful use on a very demanding coast. I think 70hp would be at the upper end of safe power but if it's indeed a V bottom I wouldn't go below 50hp. 115 would be dangerous unless you really knew what you were doing...Moe

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