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Thread: Hatch material

  1. #1
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    Default Hatch material

    How suitable would Sapele be for a traditional opening butterfly skylight hatch, or other exposed deck furniture?
    If one advances confidently in the direction of his dreams, and endeavors to live the life which he has imagined, he will meet with a success unexpected in common hours.
    -Henry David Thoreau-

  2. #2
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    Default Re: Hatch material

    One of the things you could do is compare its physical charactistics to other species known to perform well for the intended use. Wood database or chapter 3 of the USDA wood handbook

    http://www.wood-database.com/honduran-mahogany/

    http://www.wood-database.com/sapele/


    https://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/f...tr113/ch03.pdf


    Or you could use locust.
    Steve Martinsen

  3. #3
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    Default Re: Hatch material

    MMMM Locust.....
    If one advances confidently in the direction of his dreams, and endeavors to live the life which he has imagined, he will meet with a success unexpected in common hours.
    -Henry David Thoreau-

  4. #4
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    Default Re: Hatch material

    I might have some locust that would work.
    When would you need it?
    R
    Sleep with one eye open.

  5. #5
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    Default Re: Hatch material

    If you are speaking of solid and not ply Sapele, it will work. But the wood is "NOT VERY ROT RESTISTANT" and often has a double grain that can be a bitch to plane!
    Jay

  6. #6
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    Default Re: Hatch material

    Not rot resistant? That's all I needed to hear. BL it will be then.
    Ron, I won't be able to build a hull for a bit yet but I plan to build small parts like hatches, cabin table, helm etc in a shop while I wait for time and space to build a hull. Mostly time that I won't be moved by the military and I need a keel to stay put in order to build of course and postings from the navy don't help with that.
    If one advances confidently in the direction of his dreams, and endeavors to live the life which he has imagined, he will meet with a success unexpected in common hours.
    -Henry David Thoreau-

  7. #7
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    Default Re: Hatch material

    I might add that the darker forms of this wood are more rot resistant than are the lighter colored planks. I have used it for planking hulls but have found that the double grain makes it difficult to cleanly fair the hull. As a result, I use other kinds of wood for planking.
    Jay

  8. #8
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    Default Re: Hatch material

    Here is a site that makes a comparison of the various woods that are called mahogany and are stained red and some woods that are not called mahogany and not stained red but do look like mahogany a bit.

    http://www.wood-database.com/wood-ar...s-the-lowdown/

    You will find that Sapelle is not a real mahogany and is close to Phillipine Mahogany in appearance. Phillipine mahogany, also known as Luan and Tangile, is now called Meranti in order to differentiate it from real mahogany and give it an exotic sounding name! It does possess the same wild grain characteristics as does Sapelle and is a bit less rot resistant than Sapelle. Even so, I would shy away from using Sapelle for things such as deck houses and hatches as the cost of repairs, later on, out way the savings in material cost in the beginning. A good builder would seal and lute the engrain if using this wood but, that in itself is a lot of hassle compared to just using better stock!
    Jay
    Last edited by Jay Greer; 04-18-2018 at 04:47 PM.

  9. #9
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    Default Re: Hatch material

    Thanks Jay. BL it will be then,
    If one advances confidently in the direction of his dreams, and endeavors to live the life which he has imagined, he will meet with a success unexpected in common hours.
    -Henry David Thoreau-

  10. #10
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    Default Re: Hatch material

    Good choice for frames! Black Locust won't let you down in other places either. It might even be overkill. My own choice would be Honduras or teak for a hatch.
    Jay

  11. #11
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    Default Re: Hatch material

    Speaking with Bill Peterson not too long ago. When I mentioned BL he said it was good for every part of a boat if you can get it in the right dimensions. I already knew that. Only parts I wouldn't build of BL are spars. Every other part including planking he said was a candidate for BL. I was surprised at hull planking as well but he said go for it. I plan to laminate the hull so outer layer will be BL, inner will be BL below the cabin sole, cherry above the cabin sole and probably a couple of thicknesses of HD grade construction 2x ripped into strips for the middle layers. Being laminated, the smaller lengths that BL comes in won't be a problem. Still undecided on decking. Teak would cost a fortune but there are other materials that make good decks and BL may be my choice. It weathers well, to a grey colour like teak so maybe that's my solution right there as well. Now to find enough of the stuff. It's not as common here as I'd like it to be.
    If one advances confidently in the direction of his dreams, and endeavors to live the life which he has imagined, he will meet with a success unexpected in common hours.
    -Henry David Thoreau-

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