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Thread: Linseed Oil + Heat to Strip Bottom Paint

  1. #1
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    Default Linseed Oil + Heat to Strip Bottom Paint

    As noted elsewhere, I am refastening Wandering Star. One of the big challenges is removing bottom paint. I have found paint strippers expensive, nasty and labor intensive. Sanders tiring, dusty and prone to damage soft wood. In my research, I read about SpeedHeater a better but expensive heat source. Their website recommends applying linseed oil to bottom paint a day before heating it. This works. In the past I have found most bottom paint resistant to heat, it doesn't bubble up like other paint. Maybe the high solids. The linseed oil soaks in and then softens the paint with heat. Maybe this isn't news to some of you, I had never heard it before.

  2. #2
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    Default Re: Linseed Oil + Heat to Strip Bottom Paint

    Well that's pretty all right. Thanks for the tip. I had never heard that one --and wish I had!

    Does it work with all types of bottom paint --hard, ablative, water-based, oil-based...? What did you use it on?

    Alex

  3. #3
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    Default Re: Linseed Oil + Heat to Strip Bottom Paint

    I think Petit Ablative, over older CPP, synthetic oil.

  4. #4
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    Default Re: Linseed Oil + Heat to Strip Bottom Paint

    I've never had any problem stripping bottom paint. There was a hand-held paint torch connected by a hose to a five gallon propane tank. It put out a lot of heat fast and the paint came off quickly with a sharp triangular scraper. We wore welder's gloves with gauntlets so the hot, and sometimes burning, bottom paint wouldn't land on our forearms and burn the hell out of us. Nasty work, but effective. The torch put out a lot more heat than any heat gun I've ever seen. The paint would ignite as the shavings fell off the scraper. We'd wet down the ground to put it out when it fell.

    I would be reluctant to soak paint in linseed oil before burning it off. It would seem to me the linseed oil would substantially increase the flammability of the exercise in general.
    Last edited by Bob Cleek; 04-14-2018 at 02:53 PM.

  5. #5
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    Default Re: Linseed Oil + Heat to Strip Bottom Paint

    You can make an infrared paint stripper like the Speedheater or Silent Stripper from about $70 worth of parts from a restaurant supply store. The SH and SS cost $500-$600. But you can buy a 1000 watt ceramic emitter and a matching aluminum/ss housing and make a handle from some bolts, spacers and a piece of wood. These are much safer than Bob’s torch method and much faster than using a heat gun.

    You can order the parts from this site: https://www.infraredheaters.com/


    You want: FTE-1000-120-0-L6-WH-0
    This designates:
    FTE ceramic emitter-1000 Watt-120 Volt-no thermocouple-standard six inch length of leads-white glaze color-standard pin terminal option. Part number IRCER10272
    -ceramic emitter $31.25
    -The aluminum housing part number is IRALX10001. Price has increased since I last ordered to $61.28.
    -Don't forget the ceramic terminal block IRTB10002. As far as I know this is not included. $3.30.
    -The clip that secures the ceramic emitter to the aluminum housing is included.
    -Shipping says it's either FedEx or UPS. $8.93
    Last edited by StevenBauer; 04-13-2018 at 01:57 PM.

  6. #6
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    Default Re: Linseed Oil + Heat to Strip Bottom Paint

    Thanks Steve, I may look into it, especially if I strip the whole hull.
    Bob, a heat gun does the job well after linseed oil, and nothing catches fire, which is probably good.

  7. #7
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    Default Re: Linseed Oil + Heat to Strip Bottom Paint

    Quote Originally Posted by johngsandusky View Post
    Bob, a heat gun does the job well after linseed oil, and nothing catches fire, which is probably good.
    I neglected to mention that a relative of mine's painting contracting company burned a huge Victorian landmark to the ground stripping over a century of paint from the redwood siding with flame torches. It was an extremely hot day, over 100 degrees, and there was a drought going on so the fire department wouldn't let them tap into their hydrant to hose the job down as was the usual practice. All it took was a small burning bit to get through a crack and quietly start working its way upward between the joists. There were no fire stops in those old buildings and the space between the studs acted like a chimney with nobody knowing it. Once it hit the attic going full bore, the whole building exploded in flame and that was all she wrote. Fortunately, they were insured.

  8. #8
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    Default Re: Linseed Oil + Heat to Strip Bottom Paint

    When I get back to Maine I’ll take a pic of the ones I made. Man it’s hot here in the Deep South of Northern NJ. 80 degrees f! Back in Maine it’s still winter.

  9. #9
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    Default Re: Linseed Oil + Heat to Strip Bottom Paint

    That's an instructive story Bob. I had thought about using a weed burner. But WS is in a crowded boatyard on gravel/dry grass. The nearest boat is only 18 inches away, a shrink wrapped fg gas powered motor boat. I'm working alone, not even a spotter.
    Steven, I'd appreciate that picture.

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