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Thread: Just bought a 2006 Caledonia Yawl, and have a few questions...

  1. #141
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    Default Re: Just bought a 2006 Caledonia Yawl, and have a few questions...

    Quote Originally Posted by WI-Tom View Post
    That's certainly different from the 4:1 or even 6:1 downhauls that seem popular for balance lugsails around here. And your mainsail is pretty big (comparable to the Oughtred designs) at 100 sq ft.

    I've been using a 2:1 on my Alaska (85 sq ft), might bump that up a little this year--the standing lug wants more luff tension, I think.

    Tom
    I do use a 4:1 on the standing lug downhaul as it is the sall shaper. Now that I have gone to a bigger carbon stick the mast no longer bends when I flatten the sail. ( BTW I have a nice 18' carbon stick gathering dust if someone needs one. Would be plenty stiff enough for a smaller sail.)
    Ben Fuller
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  2. #142
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    Default Re: Just bought a 2006 Caledonia Yawl, and have a few questions...

    Without shortening the boomkin and/or coming up with a system to keep the slack from hanging off the end of the spritboom, no. The slack sheet would still lasso and wrap the boomkin, fairleads and all...


    Quote Originally Posted by WI-Tom View Post
    Wouldn't a fairlead or two on the boomkin prevent a fouled mizzen sheet? Does anyone do that? Seems like that would be pretty simple to set up.

    Tom
    "The enemies of reason have a certain blind look."
    Doctor Jacquin to Lieutenant D'Hubert, in Ridley Scott's first major film _The Duellists_.

  3. #143
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    Default Re: Just bought a 2006 Caledonia Yawl, and have a few questions...

    Another option would be to lengthen the boomkin, which is typical for a mizzen without a boom.

  4. #144
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    Default Re: Just bought a 2006 Caledonia Yawl, and have a few questions...

    Rant, scream, holler: Just run the sheet along the goshdurned spritboom. No purchase, you can put a cleat on the boom, or have a block on the mast and pull it vertically down.

    If you'd like the more complex solution as is your wont. You could laminate or steam an "S" shaped boomkin.

  5. #145
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    Default Re: Just bought a 2006 Caledonia Yawl, and have a few questions...

    Quote Originally Posted by Thorne View Post
    My next issue after fixing the downhaul and keel rollers is the mizzen sheet / boomkin setup. Unless I keep the leg o' mutton sail sheeted in hard, the sheet wraps itself around the end of the boomkin where it is attached through a beehole / bee-block. Once the sheet gets two or more wraps on the boomkin, you can't control it very well.

    I know that one person suggested having a block on the end of the boomkin rather than the end of the leg o'mutton spritboom, but photos of other CY's rigs show blocks on the boom end also. Any suggestions?

    I had a similar problem on Marianita and eventually solved it by building a hollow boomkin. Her mizzen boom is significantly longer than the boomkin, I had a fair amount of success simply moving the block on the boom 6-8" aft of the end of the boomkin and the block on the boomkin as close to the end as I could get it. In your case I think shortening the boomkin would work.
    Steve

    Boats, like whiskey, are all good.
    R.D Culler

  6. #146
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    Default Re: Just bought a 2006 Caledonia Yawl, and have a few questions...

    I could never solve the sheet-lasso problem with my mizzen. A hollow boomkin seems a very good idea and I must now find a free windsurfmast.

  7. #147
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    Default Re: Just bought a 2006 Caledonia Yawl, and have a few questions...

    I would suspect that the modest clamour to attach the block to the boom has justification.If that is a less than favoured option,maybe something like this on the end of the boomkin might help.Its the sort of thing we used to use on Enterprises in the seventies and perhaps still do since I am less than current with the evolution of the class.


  8. #148
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    Default Re: Just bought a 2006 Caledonia Yawl, and have a few questions...

    That mizzen is pretty small, like 35 feet. I can't imagine it needing any blocks. The Drascombe lugger solves the problem without a boom and a bit longer boomkin. They don't foul.
    If it was mine, I would fit a conventional boom (I like the precision sail set of a gooseneck fitting) and just shorten the boomkin and lead the sheet through a beehole. my own yawl uses mid boom sheeting to thevstern stem and no boomkin. I abandoned that idea as a nuisance.


  9. #149
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    Default Re: Just bought a 2006 Caledonia Yawl, and have a few questions...

    No matter what you do with the bit that runs along the boomkin, whether along the boomkinor in a hollow boomkin the bit that usually fouls is the bit that goes to the sail. Pulling it aft the way the drascombe's do it works as would mid boom sheeting. Easiest however is just keeping the slack out of the sheet. I have a clam cleat on the inboard end for instant cleating and rarely need to heavily slack the sheet unless running down wind.
    Ben Fuller
    Ran Tan, Liten Kuhling, Tipsy, Tippy, Josef W., Merry Mouth, Imp, Macavity, Look Far, Flash and a quiver of other 'yaks.
    "Bound fast is boatless man."

  10. #150
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    Default Re: Just bought a 2006 Caledonia Yawl, and have a few questions...

    In Edward Peason's post (No 6) the bottom photo of the Ness yawl with grey interior is my old boat.
    She was built by my late father R J Webster back in 1996 at his home at Crag foot near Silverdale in Lancashire. Named Surprise, she was not the best boat for an elderly couple & ended up in his barn for the next twenty years. When he got old & infirm he asked me to take her away & either use her or sell her.
    I sailed her for a while but could not get on with the wishbone tiller, it is the most impractical contraption ever & gets in the way constantly. I fitted the drag link system to her using two stainless steel ball joints, there was zero play & the tiller socket being just in front of the mizzen was very practical with the tiller folding up vertically in front of the mast.
    I eventually sold her as i had too many boats & not enough time!
    There was an interesting story to be told of her fitting out, I had been shopping & returning to the club in my Moggy Pick up truck came to a roundabout, In the back of the truck were the brand new tan sails for the Ness yawl several boxes of tools a heavy toolbox of spanners & a gallon tin of grey floor paint......
    As i went into the roundabout at some speed the load in the back all shifted across & as i exited the roundabout pushing the truck hard the load slid the other way. I arrived at the boat to find the toolbox had burst the gallon tin of grey paint which had then fallen over. The new sails were sitting in it. Oh the horror! It was hot & sunny & i literally cut the sailbag open with a knife. The Mainsail was unscathed but the mizzen sail was soaked in paint. I had no time & no choice so grabbed the gallon of acetone & some rags & got scrubbing, the rags ran out so i tore my shirt off & used that as well! Got away with it!
    Out of interest If the owner of Surprise would care to get in touch i have just found the wooden centreboard that Dad first used before fitting the steel one. You are welcome to it if of any use.

  11. #151
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    Default Re: Just bought a 2006 Caledonia Yawl, and have a few questions...

    Next question: Sleeping platform design? Even though the floorboards sit flat, squeezing between the CB case and the seats is a bit tight for me to be comfortable - but doable in a particularly rolly anchorage if necessary. I checked the CY Forum but only saw some references to sleeping platforms, no photos or detailed discussion.

    For sleeping alone on the boat I'm tempted to build a set of roughly 3' slats that go from the side benches to the CB case on one side of the boat, leaving the other side open for walking and easily-accessed gear storage. These would be held together by copper-tacked-on strips of nylon webbing, and hopefully wouldn't take up too much space during the day. I'd use blue foam pads over the slats with an airbed on top -- my usual "mr. softy" camping setup these days. ;-)

    Any ideas on how this might work, or better options? The nice thing is that it would allow me to build another set of slats for the other side if I ever lure the wife aboard for the night, just making them offset from the first set of slats where they land on the other bench and CB case.
    "The enemies of reason have a certain blind look."
    Doctor Jacquin to Lieutenant D'Hubert, in Ridley Scott's first major film _The Duellists_.

  12. #152
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    Default Re: Just bought a 2006 Caledonia Yawl, and have a few questions...

    Sleeping on a small boat wants the "sleeper" as low as possible in the boat. Any placement above the waterline will exaggerate moment from a passing wake, a gust of wind or whatever. I have heard many complaints in the morning from small boats with say a tent pitched on the seats, that the wind gusts kept them "up all night".
    Whenever possible try to get down to the floorboards.

  13. #153
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    Default Re: Just bought a 2006 Caledonia Yawl, and have a few questions...



    Should be plenty of room to put your feet and knees under the rear thwart, and then aim your head toward the back bench. Lots of room in there. Ought to be plenty of room for a thermarest, too. No platform needed. I'm sure you could roll over, etc, in that formation.
    Quote Originally Posted by James McMullen View Post
    Yeadon is right, of course.

  14. #154
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    Default Re: Just bought a 2006 Caledonia Yawl, and have a few questions...

    I would be sorely tempted to make that center thwart quickly removable. No, in fact I would do it...
    Using bolts and wingnuts or cleats and wedges (knees and wedges?) or something equally clever perhaps as it needs to ridgidly support the centerboard case when sailing. Maybe just half the thwart, bronze hinges? If the floors are strong and well fastened to the case this could work.
    Didn't Mssr. McMullen do something like this?

  15. #155
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    Default Re: Just bought a 2006 Caledonia Yawl, and have a few questions...

    An option, that I have built but not tested extensively (only cat naps, not overnight ) is a "v-berth" forward between the center thwart and the mast partner. The platform is made of 2 slats each side that mimic the curve of the side thwarts (in fact they were side thwarts until I built in side tanks and re-purposed them). It does have you sleeping at thwart height, but I found the space on the floorboards by the CB trunk to be too narrow. One can tent/tarp the forward half and leave the aft half open for cooking, lounging etc.

  16. #156
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    Default Re: Just bought a 2006 Caledonia Yawl, and have a few questions...

    Quote Originally Posted by Thorne View Post
    Next question: Sleeping platform design? Even though the floorboards sit flat, squeezing between the CB case and the seats is a bit tight for me to be comfortable - but doable in a particularly rolly anchorage if necessary. I checked the CY Forum but only saw some references to sleeping platforms, no photos or detailed discussion.

    For sleeping alone on the boat I'm tempted to build a set of roughly 3' slats that go from the side benches to the CB case on one side of the boat, leaving the other side open for walking and easily-accessed gear storage. These would be held together by copper-tacked-on strips of nylon webbing, and hopefully wouldn't take up too much space during the day. I'd use blue foam pads over the slats with an airbed on top -- my usual "mr. softy" camping setup these days. ;-)

    Any ideas on how this might work, or better options? The nice thing is that it would allow me to build another set of slats for the other side if I ever lure the wife aboard for the night, just making them offset from the first set of slats where they land on the other bench and CB case.
    I've done what you're suggesting on our CY and it worked fine. For us it was a good way to get four berths in a small boat. I wouldn't hesitate to do it again either. I also like the hinged thwart idea to make it easier to actually stretch out on the floor boards.
    -Jim

    Sucker for a pretty face.
    1934 27' Blanchard Cuiser ~ Amazon, Ex. Emalu
    19'6" Caledonia Yawl ~ Sparrow

    Getting into trouble one board at a time.

  17. #157
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    Default Re: Just bought a 2006 Caledonia Yawl, and have a few questions...

    Picked up a free futon frame on craigslist and cut it up for parts. The side rails should make great bed boards, and I'll tack them together with old nylon webbing so the bundle can roll up for transport. We'll have to see if I roll off the whole thing with boat wakes and/or swell...





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    Last edited by Thorne; 10-29-2018 at 12:01 AM.
    "The enemies of reason have a certain blind look."
    Doctor Jacquin to Lieutenant D'Hubert, in Ridley Scott's first major film _The Duellists_.

  18. #158
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    Default Re: Just bought a 2006 Caledonia Yawl, and have a few questions...

    Finished - it lashes fore and aft to the side benches and thwart cleats, with the webbing holding the boards 7" apart. As above, we'll see if sleeping that high up results in a poor experience...


    "The enemies of reason have a certain blind look."
    Doctor Jacquin to Lieutenant D'Hubert, in Ridley Scott's first major film _The Duellists_.

  19. #159
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    Default Re: Just bought a 2006 Caledonia Yawl, and have a few questions...

    Just cleaned the boat after a week of boat camping with friends -- and this boat REALLY needs a drain plug! My style of boating often doesn't include docks or squeaky-clean boating shoes; trending more towards mucky boots, glops of water weed on sheets and lines, and amazing amounts of sand and gravel. I'd rather not attempt to run all that crud through my Gusher pump, and since most of the floorboards are screwed to the floors (cleats), it is really hard to get to other than by washing it out with copious amounts of fresh water through a hose nozzle.

    Anyone know the best location for a drain plug on this design? I'm tempted to go just forward of the pump, which is mounted under the aft thwart, right next to the keel. As I did on my dory skiff, I'd use a SB threaded through-hull plug, seated in a hole overdrilled and sealed with thickened epoxy. I like to cut a groove in the square plug wide enough to take the back of a rigging knife or coin.

    Last edited by Thorne; 07-31-2018 at 07:18 PM.
    "The enemies of reason have a certain blind look."
    Doctor Jacquin to Lieutenant D'Hubert, in Ridley Scott's first major film _The Duellists_.

  20. #160
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    Default Re: Just bought a 2006 Caledonia Yawl, and have a few questions...

    You may want to think about how the boat usually sits on the trailer, bow or stern down. Some times its better for the plug to be in the bow. If you want to work a little more on that drain plug and have a drill press. a hole with a bit of non ferrous welding rod as a T handle is kind of elegant.
    Ben Fuller
    Ran Tan, Liten Kuhling, Tipsy, Tippy, Josef W., Merry Mouth, Imp, Macavity, Look Far, Flash and a quiver of other 'yaks.
    "Bound fast is boatless man."

  21. #161
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    Default Re: Just bought a 2006 Caledonia Yawl, and have a few questions...

    Thorne, The Off Center Harbor video series on how to build the Caledonia Yawl has a good section on installing the drain plug. It is included in video number 39 - fitting out the interior.

    https://www.offcenterharbor.com/vide...ting-interior/

    I put my drain plug in the same location and I find it works very well to clean and drain my CY.

    I raise the bow of my boat with the trailer jack to get a good flush under the floor.

  22. #162
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    Default Re: Just bought a 2006 Caledonia Yawl, and have a few questions...

    I went with your plan Thorne and over drilled and filled before mounting my plug.

    I elected to put it forward of the mast step so that when the boat sits on the trailer I can leave it tilted a bit down and that is the lowest point.

    Also, I just felt that it was the most out of the way there and still accessible because the floor boards don't go that far forward.

  23. #163
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    Default Re: Just bought a 2006 Caledonia Yawl, and have a few questions...

    I'll check the videos if I can do that without a subscription.

    For smaller boats with fully removable floorboards, I'm a HUGE fan of putting the drain plug all the way forward, as you can always lower or fold the rolling jack up to give maximum drainage when washing out the boat.

    But for bigger boats like this one, where it is too heavy to fold the jack / too heavy to lift back up, and particularly when the floorboards are fastened all the way forward, I'm going to go for either near the pump (rear frame / thwart) or nearly all the way aft. Considering the amount of gravel, water weed, leaves, etc that gets into the boat when used for beaching and camping in wooded areas, the drain area needs to be fully accessible so all that stuff can be cleaned out by hand.
    "The enemies of reason have a certain blind look."
    Doctor Jacquin to Lieutenant D'Hubert, in Ridley Scott's first major film _The Duellists_.

  24. #164
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    Default Re: Just bought a 2006 Caledonia Yawl, and have a few questions...

    I have them both forward (stb side) and aft (port side). I could also see having a plug just forward of midships, where the rocker is greatest in my hull. No matter what, I think I'll always end up pulling the floorboards now and again and cleaning everything out with a shopvac.
    Quote Originally Posted by James McMullen View Post
    Yeadon is right, of course.

  25. #165
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    Default Re: Just bought a 2006 Caledonia Yawl, and have a few questions...

    I ended up installing a second drain plug admidships on the port side, right next to the CB case. Water would sit in this low area even after the boat was towed home on steep, winding mountain roads with the aft drain plug removed. The aft plug is roughly the same location aft as shown in the excellent Off Center Harbor video.

    Discovered that you can purchase replacement drain plug "stopper/caps" at the plumbing section of most big box stores, either in brass or plastic. Picked up two plastic ones for $1 each as backups for my two SB garboard drain plug stoppers. As I mentioned earlier, on the metal ones I cut a slot in the square cap top large enough to take the back of a rigging knife or coin.

    The other big project today was removing all the screwed-down floorboards. Did I happen to mention AGAIN just how much I hate screwed-down floorboards? They've been un/rescrewed several times by the PO since the build in 2006, and at least 20% of the SB screws were angled in and/or damaged. And the screw holes in the floors and frames !!! Not much rot yet but certainly heading that direction.





    The plan is to join them together underneath with cleats, plug the screw holes, then install toggles to hold them to the floors / frames.

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    Last edited by Thorne; 10-29-2018 at 01:17 AM.
    "The enemies of reason have a certain blind look."
    Doctor Jacquin to Lieutenant D'Hubert, in Ridley Scott's first major film _The Duellists_.

  26. #166
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    Default Re: Just bought a 2006 Caledonia Yawl, and have a few questions...

    I have a similar issue on my Shearwater. There are only 2 holes per floorboard (3 boards), but they're into the keel!?! I'm planning on drilling out the old screw holes and epoxying in a grain matched plug and then, like you, using toggles to hold down the floorboards. I'll bed around the toggle screw and even if it does leak into the plug some day the epoxy should pretty much isolate any leakage.

  27. #167
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    Default Re: Just bought a 2006 Caledonia Yawl, and have a few questions...

    Quote Originally Posted by Canoeyawl View Post
    Sleeping on a small boat wants the "sleeper" as low as possible in the boat. Any placement above the waterline will exaggerate moment from a passing wake, a gust of wind or whatever.
    I'm not convinced that's true. I think the issue is that the sleeper must be below the boat's metacentric height--if that's true, stability is increased. But the metacentric height might be above thwart level, as it is in the Phoenix III, which means a sleeper at thwart level actually ADDS to the boat's stability.

    I am entirely prepared to be contradicted by people smarter than I, however. But I think--THINK--if I remember correctly, this is how Ross Lillistone described his design process in the Phoenix III. I think. I could be wrong.

    Tom
    Last edited by WI-Tom; 10-29-2018 at 02:18 AM.
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