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Thread: Drill press runout / chuck removal

  1. #1
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    Default Drill press runout / chuck removal

    I have a second-hand drill press, which I got very cheaply as a local government organisation got rid of old machinery by tenders among the staff, and I have a friend working there.

    It has a lot of runout. I haven't measured exactly but would estimate 0.5 mm. I mentioned it here before and the advise was to remove the chuck and check that the tapers etc were clean and properly installed. However - I can't see how to do this. This drill press doesn't appear to use a Morse taper, at least there's no window to access the top end of one in the shaft. And there's not much access to the top of the chuck to tap it using a drift - not that I'm entirely sure how it's fixed. I suspect that I have a Jacobs taper machined into the end of the spindle.

    How do I tell what I have - and how do I remove the chuck? Having done that I should be able to see if the spindle is bent, or whether the runout comes from the chuck or its attachment.

    The drill press is a NZ made machine, from Tanner, a now-defunct but originally reasonable quality brand of professional machines.

    IMG_0776.jpgIMG_0777.jpgIMG_0778.jpg

  2. #2
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    Default Re: Drill press runout / chuck removal

    Tanner is a New Zealand company, parts are still available though a replacement taper and chuck will be available locally. It's probably 2 Morse taper.

    https://www.powertoolcentres.co.nz/s...ols-whangarei/

    '' You ain't gonna learn what you don't want to know. ''
    Grateful Dead

  3. #3
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    Default Re: Drill press runout / chuck removal

    Thanks Peter.

    What I'm missing from that video is the window in the shaft to get to the top of the tapered arbour - if it is a Morse taper, I suppose I can use a drift to tap on the top of the chuck? Unfortunately there's not much access to get to the top of the chuck so I'll be hitting it sideways more than down, if things are not bent before I start they could easily get that way.

  4. #4
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    Default Re: Drill press runout / chuck removal

    Ring the mob in Whangarei , they'll know.
    '' You ain't gonna learn what you don't want to know. ''
    Grateful Dead

  5. #5
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    Default Re: Drill press runout / chuck removal

    You might try a pair of these http://www.jacobschuck.com/accessories/wedge-set
    I have also seen chucks that have a left hand thread in the chuck to mount them but mostly on hand held power tools.

  6. #6
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    Default Re: Drill press runout / chuck removal

    or sometimes a draw bolt into the top of the Morse taper, release the draw bolt and the chuck drops out, sometimes with gentle tap.
    '' You ain't gonna learn what you don't want to know. ''
    Grateful Dead

  7. #7
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    Default Re: Drill press runout / chuck removal

    Quote Originally Posted by PeterSibley View Post
    Ring the mob in Whangarei , they'll know.
    They did know. It's a male taper, machined on the end of the spindle, he said go hit it with a drift. No Morse taper inside the spindle.

    Eggman, they look like a good idea but might be difficult to get locally. I'll try email the engineering shops with your link and see.

  8. #8
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    Default Re: Drill press runout / chuck removal

    .5 mm isn't enough to worry about for most purposes.
    Drill bits center themselves in the punch divot or pilot hole.
    Using a sanding drum,applying a side load to the quill is a good way to make it all drop out unexpectedly.
    R
    Sleep with one eye open.

  9. #9
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    Default Re: Drill press runout / chuck removal

    You don't have to go as far as the US to get chuck removal wedges. See http://www.ausee.com.au/shop/category.aspx?catid=30
    Cheers,
    Bill

  10. #10
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    Default Re: Drill press runout / chuck removal

    Jeeze, just use an old screw driver.

  11. #11
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    Default Re: Drill press runout / chuck removal

    Quote Originally Posted by Ron Williamson View Post
    Using a sanding drum,applying a side load to the quill is a good way to make it all drop out unexpectedly.
    R
    ha! also a good way to introduce excess runout into an otherwise reliable machine. . .
    Simpler is better, except when complicated looks really cool.

  12. #12
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    Default Re: Drill press runout / chuck removal

    I get the chucks off my 2 drill presses with a home made pair of cherry wedges tapping them in alternately with a hammer.

  13. #13
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    Default Re: Drill press runout / chuck removal

    Quote Originally Posted by navydog View Post
    Jeeze, just use an old screw driver.
    I tried that first

    It’s on there pretty tight. And it does mostly self-centre.

  14. #14
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    Default Re: Drill press runout / chuck removal

    Oliver, just a thought. Can you get over the front pulleys to see if the shaft is hollow? If it is, take it from there with a drift.
    There is nothing quite as permanent as a good temporary repair.

  15. #15
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    Default Re: Drill press runout / chuck removal

    I had to replace the bearings in one of these not long ago, stripped the whole spindle, rebuilt it and got it running pretty well. Pm me if you'd like some ideas.Note though that "reasonable quality" is being very kind to the brand.

    John Welsford
    An expert is but a beginner with experience.

  16. #16
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    Default Re: Drill press runout / chuck removal

    if the bearings were bad, I'd expect the spindle run-out to be bad also, right? When I measure the run-out at the spindle its the tapered part which mates up with the chuck of drill press.


    The itself spindle rotates smoothly, and there no grinding feeling in the bearings. The bearings for this guy are pretty expensive, so I'm hoping that's not a route I need to take.
    Last edited by Johnywallter; 05-31-2018 at 04:27 PM.

  17. #17
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    Default Re: Drill press runout / chuck removal

    Sort of off-topic, but it was mentioned:

    Is there any way to cure a drill press spindle that has been side-loaded, and now likes to drop the chuck?

  18. #18
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    Default Re: Drill press runout / chuck removal

    If it's a Morse taper then a reamer might well do the trick,IF damage to the taper is your problem.
    https://www.mscdirect.com/browse/tn/...navid=12106297

  19. #19
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    Default Re: Drill press runout / chuck removal

    Clean it, carefully scrape or file any high spots and fit it back together with red Loctite and a sharp hammer blow...

  20. #20
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    Default Re: Drill press runout / chuck removal

    Quote Originally Posted by Canoeyawl View Post
    Clean it, carefully scrape or file any high spots and fit it back together with red Loctite and a sharp hammer blow...
    Red loctite on a Morse taper will never come out without heating it to over 350*f and even then it will be a bear..........$.02

  21. #21
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    Default Re: Drill press runout / chuck removal

    I have a #2 reamer I would loan you if you cover shipping both ways.

  22. #22
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    Default Re: Drill press runout / chuck removal

    Thanks for the offer, but I could probably buy one for the price of shipping. I will see if my nephew can borrow one, he has access to quite a decent machine shop where he works.

  23. #23
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    Default Re: Drill press runout / chuck removal

    Quote Originally Posted by eggman918 View Post
    Red loctite on a Morse taper will never come out without heating it to over 350*f and even then it will be a bear..........$.02
    Perhaps, but it's likely a Jacobs taper.

  24. #24
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    Default Re: Drill press runout / chuck removal

    Jacobs on the drill chuck and Morse in the quill, I would not have an issue with loctite on the chuck taper but not on the quill taper..............But that is just my opinion.......

  25. #25
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    Default Re: Drill press runout / chuck removal

    My drill press has a Morse taper. No Jacobs taper, adapter, etc. It has the classic slot and bit of steel to knock out the chuck.

  26. #26
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    Default Re: Drill press runout / chuck removal

    A little lapping compound might do it.

  27. #27
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    Default Re: Drill press runout / chuck removal

    Be aware that engineering supply places sell chucks, in the case of the op and his Tanner, if you go to Bay Engineering or Chevpac you'll find high quality chucks for sale, given that the quill itself is probably ok, cheap chucks as were fitted to the Tanner as original equipment wont be consistently true. I replaced the one on my generic Taiwan built 16 speed half inch drill press with a genuine Jacobs chuck and improved the machine quite noticeably.
    You will though need to take the old chuck in so they can match the taper.

    John Welsford
    An expert is but a beginner with experience.

  28. #28
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    Default Re: Drill press runout / chuck removal

    +1 on what John said above. My second hand Jet had a bit of run out, but after removing the chuck the remaining taper was spot on.

    I replaced the chuck with a keyless style and it has been a joy how easy it is to make drill changes, and no run out, you get what you pay for in chucks. I added a ‘J’ tool for adding extra torque to the chuck, but have never had to use it, even on stainless.

  29. #29
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    Default Re: Drill press runout / chuck removal

    Quote Originally Posted by OliverBendix View Post
    I have a second-hand drill press, which I got very cheaply as a local government organisation got rid of old machinery by tenders among the staff, and I have a friend working there.

    It has a lot of runout. I haven't measured exactly but would estimate 0.5 mm. I mentioned it here before and the advise was to remove the chuck and check that the tapers etc were clean and properly installed. However - I can't see how to do this. This drill press doesn't appear to use a Morse taper, at least there's no window to access the top end of one in the shaft. And there's not much access to the top of the chuck to tap it using a drift - not that I'm entirely sure how it's fixed. I suspect that I have a Jacobs taper machined into the end of the spindle.

    How do I tell what I have - and how do I remove the chuck? Having done that I should be able to see if the spindle is bent, or whether the runout comes from the chuck or its attachment.

    The drill press is a NZ made machine, from Tanner, a now-defunct but originally reasonable quality brand of professional machines.

    IMG_0776.jpgIMG_0777.jpgIMG_0778.jpg

    What is your intention, with regard to the drill press? If you simply want to make it run "true" (centered), why try to take it apart? Get yourself a dial indicator with a magnetic base, and chuck up a THICK round (and straight) shaft, set up the dial indicator, and find the rotational spot where the shaft is closest to the dial indicator. Then strike the shaft very near the chuck (but not ON the chuck) using a hammer to hit a socket wrench extension, at the exact rotational "high point." Repeat until there is no deviation on the dial indicator, throughout 360 degrees of rotation. Then ... you're done! You can find a rather inexpensive dial indicator setup at Harbor Freight.
    Last edited by Challenger; 06-01-2018 at 09:43 AM.

  30. #30
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    Default Re: Drill press runout / chuck removal

    Are you suggesting he bend the spindle?

    (Most drill chucks do not repeat within .005" even if you spend big money. I think a "Ball Bearing" Jacobs chuck might do that, new out of the box, but the first time a drill bit slips in the chuck all bets are off. With a Cheap Chinese Chuck you will be lucky to get it within .010, without counting the bearing slop in the spindle. Even an new Albrecht chuck won't repeat better than .002" and they are like $500 for a 1/2" chuck)

    Drill presses are just not that accurate...

  31. #31
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    Default Re: Drill press runout / chuck removal

    In a past life as a tool & die maker, even with commercial grade drill presses a couple light taps with a lead hammer on a drill you could see running out always worked, even Jacobs chucks aren't perfect.

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