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Thread: Installing new Nanni engine

  1. #281
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    Default Re: Installing new Nanni engine

    Just matched the the shaft size and gearbox type - 1" shaft, Hurth HBW 125 box. The tolerance is .003.

    Rick

  2. #282
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    Default Re: Installing new Nanni engine

    Great work , good access too

  3. #283
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    Default Re: Installing new Nanni engine

    Quote Originally Posted by Neil C View Post
    Great work , good access too
    Thanks Neil! I'm happy with it. The crooked mount is due to an existing hole in the steel turning up in just the wrong place . ... Yes, opening it all up is great. I can access all of the engine now, apart from the sump.

    Hope it runs!

    Rick

  4. #284
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    Default Re: Installing new Nanni engine

    Looks great!

    Rick

  5. #285
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    Default Re: Installing new Nanni engine

    You're going to have hp to burn with that there.

  6. #286
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    Default Re: Installing new Nanni engine

    Well, it's more HP than I really wanted but it seems to sit there alright so, so far, no downside. On a subject dear to your heart .... The garage floor paint, Berger Jet Dry, seems to work well. I have to be careful not to tread on the tar sections, as they remain soft, but on the sections where the tar has hardened and where there's no tar, the Jet Dry is hard and strong after just a day or two. Time will tell but it seems really good for bilges and work areas to me. I'm going to paint the whole engine bay and all storage areas with it.

    Rick

  7. #287
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    Default Re: Installing new Nanni engine

    When is the big start-er-up day?

  8. #288
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    Default Re: Installing new Nanni engine

    The boat has to be out of the yard by Friday so tomorrow I'll get the engine running to avoid having to be towed home. All a bit hectic at present!

    Rick

  9. #289
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    Default Re: Installing new Nanni engine

    Congrats Rick! Must be great to have it in.
    Philip K. Dick — 'Reality is that which, when you stop believing in it, doesn't go away'.

  10. #290
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    Default Re: Installing new Nanni engine

    I'm picking 8 with that motor maybe 8.5 without going to WOT .
    lazy 7 and 7.5

  11. #291
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    Default Re: Installing new Nanni engine

    Probably right. The linkages aren't right yet so unable to shift gears yet - a simple problem that I'll fix soon. The engine runs smoothly, pushes the boat along at about 5.5 knots at under 2000 rpm. Alternator works and it all seems to stay at the right temperature. I won't run it up yet until it's run in, I've changed the oil and done another engine alignment.

    I'll write a list of all the work done soon and post some photos. Right now, I'm off, back to the mooring .....

    Rick

  12. #292
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    Default Re: Installing new Nanni engine

    What's WOT?

    Rick

  13. #293
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    Default Re: Installing new Nanni engine

    Quote Originally Posted by RFNK View Post
    What's WOT?

    Rick
    Wide Open Throttle
    Heute ist so ein schöne Tag...

  14. #294
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    Default Re: Installing new Nanni engine

    Who's on second?
    Philip K. Dick — 'Reality is that which, when you stop believing in it, doesn't go away'.

  15. #295
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    Default

    Good job

    Sent from my CPH1851 using Tapatalk

  16. #296
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    Default Re: Installing new Nanni engine

    Great to hear you are back on the water and it’s all working well.

  17. #297
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    Default Re: Installing new Nanni engine

    Quote Originally Posted by gypsie View Post
    Who's on second?
    No, What's on Second. Who's on First.
    Heute ist so ein schöne Tag...

  18. #298
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    Default Re: Installing new Nanni engine

    Well, the diesel god guided me well enough to prevent me from connecting the fuel line to the coolant drain and seemed to have smiled warmly on the engine overall but she might have forgotten to bless the gearbox. I gave up trying to sort out non-engagement issues with the linkages and tried engaging gears directly with the gearbox lever and we still have a problem. Reverse seems fine, neutral is neutral but there's no forward. The shaft turns but slowly and without any power - I can stop the shaft by hand, and increasing revs doesn't change it. When we motored home from the boatyard, we had no power in either gear at first but then forward kicked in and seemed fine. I assumed then that linkages were the problem - etc.

    Aaaanyway, I contacted the guy who supplied the gearbox, who reconditions gearboxes, and he's suggested adjusting the cover plate. This is the plate that holds the gear lever and, apparently, it can be slid back and forth. So, tomorrow, I'll loosen the cover plate enough to slide it back about 1.5 mm and see if it works. He thinks it will so I hope he's right!

    Rick

  19. #299
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    Default Re: Installing new Nanni engine

    I would definitely run that new engine at WOT after everything is warmed up properly. Diesels want to be worked hard, and we saw more problems from not putting them under a good load. For most small craft diesels, WOT is a one hour rating, in other words it can be safely run at WOT for one hour out of every 24.
    And you need to verify you have the prop sized correctly, which means typically that the fully loaded boat will achieve usually 50 to 100 rpms over it’s WOT rating.

  20. #300
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    Good luck with the cover plate. Is that some sort of hybrid cricket/baseball position?

    Sent from my CPH1851 using Tapatalk

  21. #301
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    Default Re: Installing new Nanni engine

    You and I should make a video of us discussing engines.

    Rick

  22. #302
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    Default Re: Installing new Nanni engine

    Adjusting the cover plate didn't solve the problem. I ended up removing the cover plate. I think the cam that links the gear lever to the fork is worn. The guy who supplied the gearbox is going to send me a better (I hope) gear lever/cover plate assembly so maybe that'll sort the problem. Hope so!

    Rick

  23. #303
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    Default Re: Installing new Nanni engine

    Well, the newer (?) cover plate didn't fix the problem so now it's a case of working out with the supplier whether he reconditions the gearbox or we somehow do a deal on a new one. Either way, I wish I'd just bought a new one and then tried to sell the original one. Dammit!!

    Here's a list of the things either done or still in progress, related to the new engine installation:

    One new engine bed built and installed.
    Repair and repainting of the engine bay, including two frame repairs and enlargement of tarred waterways.
    Other engine bed reinforced and new fastenings added.
    Both engine beds reinforced with 10mm SS angle iron.
    New 600 x 500mm access hatchway installed in bulkhead between the cabin and engine bay.
    Cockpit sole removed and replaced with portable waterproof hatch (now complete except for installation of 8 latches - photos to come).
    New Trudesign skin fittings and ball valves installed for engine water intake, toilet intake and output and cockpit drains.
    New cockpit drains and rebuilding of forward end of cockpit to be semi-portable (complete but I'm also building a little shelving unit for drink bottles and cups, which will cover the new section)
    New exhaust hose, muffler/water lock and outlet. A new high-riser will be added later.
    New battery switches with VSR - just arrived so yet to be installed.
    New control panel to be located in hatch in front of cockpit - this will also accommodate a new chartplotter and engine hours gauge. It'll be waterproofable! It's the next job, once I sort out the gearbox issue.
    Repairs to stern gland fastenings (replacement).
    Removal of old manual bilge pump from below waterline, in the cabin, to a position near the helm. It'll run into the cockpit for now but the outlet will have a portable hose that will run over the side.
    Relocation of galley sink outlet to a cockpit drain instead of the old bilge pump.

    I think that's most of it. Photos will be added later.

    Rick

  24. #304
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    Default

    Funny how boat jobs grow in scope. Good luck sorting the gearbox.

    Sent from my CPH1851 using Tapatalk

  25. #305
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    Default Re: Installing new Nanni engine

    Removed the gearbox today, so that includes removing the shaft coupling and flexible coupling. Will send it back to the supplier on Monday. He'll put gears in it that actually work, he says.
    Rick

  26. #306
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    Default Re: Installing new Nanni engine

    Quote Originally Posted by RFNK View Post
    Removed the gearbox today, so that includes removing the shaft coupling and flexible coupling. Will send it back to the supplier on Monday. He'll put gears in it that actually work, he says.
    Rick
    Bummer hope it all goes well.

    Interesting choice moving the sink drain to the cockpit.
    Over a 40 year period myself and crew members have sacrificed a pager and a camera and numerous other incidents when sailing becomes lively.
    WB through hull is above the waterline and also has a one way check valve installed.

  27. #307
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    Default Re: Installing new Nanni engine

    Well, the sink drain is barely above the waterline so a dedicated through-hull isn't really much of an option. I'll have a ball valve under the sink and, of course, there's a ball valve on the cockpit drain, so it should be pretty safe. The sink doesn't drain into the cockpit - it's teed (?) into the cockpit drain hose just above the drain's ball valve.

    Rick

  28. #308
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    Default Re: Installing new Nanni engine

    I've decided to leave the old bilge pump and sink outlet fitting where it is. I won't use it for the bilge pump but I'll still drain the sink into it. Easier.

    Yesterday the gearbox returned from the guy who supplied it. The selector fork was too worn to work and the clutch plates were also very worn. He said it would never have passed the torque test that it was supposed to have passed when he bought it to send to me. So, he's replaced the fork and gearing with the innards from another gearbox and tested it all properly.

    Today I installed it and tested it against the mooring lines. So far, all good! It was pretty windy today so I decided I'll take the boat for a proper run on a calmer day, just in case I need to nurse it back to the mooring - although I'm pretty sure now that it'll all be okay.

    So now I can get on with the rest of it!

    Rick

  29. #309
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    Default Re: Installing new Nanni engine

    Very important to make sure that the new engine has access to a adequate supply of fresh air.
    Not uncommon to encounter many marine diesels struggling to breath in the dark.
    Having recently been through the mechanical heart lung replacement process the two weak links proved to be poor air supply and correct prop sizing.
    Pay close attention to achieving the peak torque range without the engine running at WOT.
    Contrary to popular opinion a diesel engine does not require to be fanging it to be happy.
    Happy place for our Beta 25 pushing 5.5 ton full keel woody is 2500 rpm which results in 5.5 knots.
    Yup can easily run to 3200 rpm but why as only going to dig a hole in the ocean and stress the crew and boat.

  30. #310
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    Default Re: Installing new Nanni engine

    I just purchased several plastic ports so that I can ventilate the engine bay into the lazarette where I have quite good ventilation and I'm still looking for a way to run a vent up into the forward part of the cockpit. I may need to install a fan to force air through - still working on the thinking of that one.

    The prop size is pretty close to optimal so I think that'll be okay. And I'm with you on running engines hard - I rarely do it! I've yet to work out where this engine's sweet spot is but I'm guessing it'll also be around the 2500 mark, if not a little less.

    Rick

  31. #311
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    Default Re: Installing new Nanni engine

    Quote Originally Posted by Priscilla View Post
    Very important to make sure that the new engine has access to a adequate supply of fresh air.
    Not uncommon to encounter many marine diesels struggling to breath in the dark.
    Having recently been through the mechanical heart lung replacement process the two weak links proved to be poor air supply and correct prop sizing.
    Pay close attention to achieving the peak torque range without the engine running at WOT.
    Contrary to popular opinion a diesel engine does not require to be fanging it to be happy.
    Happy place for our Beta 25 pushing 5.5 ton full keel woody is 2500 rpm which results in 5.5 knots.
    Yup can easily run to 3200 rpm but why as only going to dig a hole in the ocean and stress the crew and boat.
    100% Agreement on the above.

    The quick rule of thumb for engine room air is 1/2 square inch of opening per horsepower for combustion and 1/4 square inch for engine room temperature. You can also quick test by hanging a thermometer in the engine room, and after running the engine at at least cruise rpm for 1/2 hour the temp should not be higher than about 10-15 degrees Fahrenheit above ambient temperature.

    The worst I saw was a re-power where much larger diesels were installed, and they were smoking like a banshee. There was soot from the engine room in every corner of the boat- lazarette, galley cabinetry, everywhere. We had to triple the square inches of the existing engine room air intakes to make the new engines happy.

    Here’s a visual- run up the dock, now turn around and cover your mouth and nose with your hands and run back. Just a wee bit of strain on your body.

  32. #312
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    Default Re: Installing new Nanni engine

    In most small installs none of the above really matters that much, sure for a bigger engine but otherwise just carry on as you will find that unless you have done a real soundproof number there is plenty of natural air vents.
    whatever rocks your boat

  33. #313
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    Default Re: Installing new Nanni engine

    Quote Originally Posted by Paul Schweiss View Post
    I would definitely run that new engine at WOT after everything is warmed up properly. Diesels want to be worked hard, and we saw more problems from not putting them under a good load. For most small craft diesels, WOT is a one hour rating, in other words it can be safely run at WOT for one hour out of every 24.
    And you need to verify you have the prop sized correctly, which means typically that the fully loaded boat will achieve usually 50 to 100 rpms over it’s WOT rating.
    Great advice, much to the horror of my crew I run my 2 GM at two speeds- on or off and it runs really well considering, but it only burns about 100 odd litres a year.
    whatever rocks your boat

  34. #314
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    Default Re: Installing new Nanni engine

    Just a few thoughts on the above re annual diesel maintenance, I've always been told and have always replaced my primary and secondary diesel filters annually but this year I decided not to. These filters are designed to be changed at 20,000k in a truck or 80,000k in a car! So unless there is obvious contamination then they could probably outlast me given the low fuel flow both in volume and actual ml/minute. I think the most important part of the fuel line setup is having a water separator and- wait for it; an inline squeeze bulb between the tank and primary filter of the kind you find in outboards. Cant praise them highly enough if you ever need to bleed your system.
    whatever rocks your boat

  35. #315
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    Default Re: Installing new Nanni engine

    I'll install the passive ventilation and then see how that goes before installing any fan. The main problem we have with fuel here is the fungus or whatever it is. We treat the fuel with a conditioner that BP produces. I'll stick to the maintenance schedule in the manual - self-imposed discipline rather than knowing what's really needed! The engine has its own little manual pump for bleeding the fuel system and it seems to work very well. As far as WOT goes, I'll keep the engine down around 2000 until the 20 hours are up and I've done the first oil change. Then I'll run it periodically at top revs and see how the prop suits etc.

    How does that sound? Grateful for all the advice - thanks!!

    Rick

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