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Thread: Installing new Nanni engine

  1. #246
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    Default Re: Installing new Nanni engine

    Quote Originally Posted by heimlaga View Post
    If I could have a thoroughly rebuilt Bukh at the cost of a new Nanni I would take the Bukh any day.

    I have a Bukh DV10 which is the now discontinued little brother of yours. Now that's a motor.........
    A pity you aren't closer, I have a DV 20 free to anyone who wants it.
    '' You ain't gonna learn what you don't want to know. ''
    Grateful Dead

  2. #247
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    Default Re: Installing new Nanni engine

    Quote Originally Posted by PeterSibley View Post
    A pity you aren't closer, I have a DV 20 free to anyone who wants it.
    I would like to buy that Bukh from you if you seriously have no further use for it, and wanting to have it go to a good home.

  3. #248
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    Default Re: Installing new Nanni engine

    It's just the engine but without a gearbox. Gearboxes are available recon from Bukh Oz for $1400. I'm not going to be building my KG design now, life has intervened..... no regrets, well not many.
    '' You ain't gonna learn what you don't want to know. ''
    Grateful Dead

  4. #249
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    Default Re: Installing new Nanni engine

    Bump...you back on house duties Rick?

  5. #250
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    Default Re: Installing new Nanni engine

    Yep. Will resume soon though!

    Rick

  6. #251
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    Default Re: Installing new Nanni engine

    Okay, it's been a while - life gets in the way - but now it's all actually happening again.

    The boat comes out of the water on 21 Nov so all must be ready if I want to avoid a big yard bill.

    This is a photo of an engine template I've built to guide modification of the engine beds and the engine bay:

    Engine template.jpg

    I planed about 20mm off the beds to get them a little lower and I had to grave in some new Oregon to fill the voids which accommodated the old Bukh flywheel. We made up a tube to slide onto the prop shaft to give us a point in line forward of the engine and we made up a little cap for the shaft so that we could run a string line from the shaft to the forward point. This was then used to check the height and alignment of the template. The template is fairly accurate. Once the boat is out of the water, we'll remove the prop shaft and run a line right through to double check it all before we crane the engine in.

    The template has two lengths of 10mm plywood sitting under the `mounts' in the photo. This is to allow for 10mm SS angle that I'm using to reinforce the beds. It'll be glued and fastened to the beds and the engine mounts will screw into the SS plates. They're 10 x 120 x 75 x 800.

    Access to the old engine from the cabin was only through a very small hole which was pretty ridiculous. I enlarged it to about 600 x 250 a while ago but it's really not enough. So, just today, I've built a new hatchwasy - 600 x 460. Quite a hole in the bulkhead but with most of a very solid bulkhead remaining and a very solid bridgedeck, unaffected, I can't see a problem, and the access is terrific.

    I'll post another photo once I've installed the steel beds.

    Rick

  7. #252
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    Default

    It will be nice to have her heart pumping again.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  8. #253
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    Default Re: Installing new Nanni engine

    Glued the engine bed reinforcements in yesterday and fastened them in today. The beds are 10mm SS angle iron on Oregon:

    Beds 2.jpg


    To make sure the steel reinforcing lies in the same plane on each bed, I fastened some aluminium angle to them as I glued them in:

    Beds 1.jpg

    So now just getting all the bits and pieces together for the big haulout on Wednesday. A bit of cleaning up to do and painting as well, and I still need to make drip trays ......

    Rick

  9. #254
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    Default Re: Installing new Nanni engine

    Drip trays are worth while . Is your oil filter a side mounted dribbler or vertical dropper?

  10. #255
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    Default Re: Installing new Nanni engine

    Side mounted and quite close to the forward end of the engine, where I should now have good access from the cabin.

    Rick

  11. #256
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    Default Re: Installing new Nanni engine

    Drip tray #1 didn't work out - ugly and doesn't fit so on to #2 ...

    Masina's out of the water and I removed the prop shaft, disassembled the prop to trial fit the new blades and this is what I found:

    Prop pin.jpg

    The shot shows the prop hub with one blade removed. The shafts (pins) that hold the blades on are SS bar. The pin sitting on the hub has classic crevice corrosion. 2 of the 3 are like this. I'll order new pins from Volvo tomorrow but I think it's a real wake-up call. I wonder how many of these props have such destructive corrosion in these pins? One of the pins has corrosion about 1/3 of the way through.

    No pitting etc. on the hub, prop shaft or blades, by the way - thankfully!

    More later.

    Rick

  12. #257
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    Default Re: Installing new Nanni engine

    Why not take the chance to replace the stainless pins with bronze ones? Have them turned to the right diameter if no suitable bar stock is at hand. No more corrosion.

  13. #258
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    Default Re: Installing new Nanni engine

    Yep, I've been thinking the same thing. We have a local machinist who may be able to do it. I'll check.

    Rick

  14. #259
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    Default Re: Installing new Nanni engine

    I wonder why stainless was used in the first place, surely not down to cost alone?

  15. #260
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    Default Re: Installing new Nanni engine

    Don't know. Maybe less chance of sticking? Less wear? I'll talk to Volvo anyway.

    Rick

  16. #261
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    Default Re: Installing new Nanni engine

    Crevice corrosion in the ends of the pins is very odd ( no crevice ?) - the ends merely bear against the allen cap screws.
    Do the pins rotate with the folding of the blades or do they remain stationary and the blades rotate on the pins ? . On most folders its the latter.
    I wonder if in the past the prop boss has been refurbished and fractionally oversized pins made out of some miss-graded ss. 2205 grade would be my preference.

  17. #262
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    Default Re: Installing new Nanni engine

    Crevice corrosion is just the general name for corrosion in captive SS. You see it a lot in SS chainplates and fasteners. The corrosion can be well away from the actual captive area. In this case, the 'crevice' is the fine gap between the blades and the pins and the hub and the pins. The pins are loose, in that they are not fixed in place. They're prevented from sliding out by Allen screws that act as stoppers. In the photo you can see the end of one of the pins and the hole for the Allen screw. So the blades can rotate on the pins but the pins can also rotate.

    I bought the prop new only a few years ago so no bodgy bits have been added.

    Rick
    Last edited by RFNK; 11-21-2018 at 03:11 PM.

  18. #263
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    Default Re: Installing new Nanni engine

    Makes me think I should strip down my prop next time we are out of the water. Great idea you've got there though, just fill the hole with gyprock fairing compound, a bit of CPES to seal, and she'll be right.

  19. #264
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    Default Re: Installing new Nanni engine

    From Volvo: not uncommon. SS is used to eliminate wear. Definitely crevice corrosion. $57 each!! Rick

  20. #265
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    Default Re: Installing new Nanni engine

    Quote Originally Posted by Phil Y View Post
    Makes me think I should strip down my prop next time we are out of the water. Great idea you've got there though, just fill the hole with gyprock fairing compound, a bit of CPES to seal, and she'll be right.
    Easy to sand, especially when wet. I've heard a lot of bad reports about CPES on the WBF but very few about Gyprock.b

    Rick

  21. #266
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    Default Re: Installing new Nanni engine

    Quote Originally Posted by RFNK View Post
    From Volvo: not uncommon. SS is used to eliminate wear. Definitely crevice corrosion. $57 each!!
    Normally you want dissimilar metals bearing on each other so bronze pins would be out ... not sure about under water though. Seems like for $57 each you could have three pins made from Aquamet or Monel tho. Neither of those should have that problem.

  22. #267
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    Default Re: Installing new Nanni engine

    Monel would be great! But, too late, I've ordered them from Volvo.

    Rick

  23. #268
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    Default Re: Installing new Nanni engine

    Hoookay .....

    Well, the template was inadequate so all sorts of drama unfolded. It all started well:

    Install 1.jpg

    Got the boat and engine to the boatyard, put the new prop together and got it all set up. Painted out the engine bay and even installed (placed) the aft drip tray:

    Install 2.jpg

    Then had the engine craned into the cockpit and we lowered it in with the chainblock for a trial fit. That's when it all turned ugly. Let me put it this way - I've now become very adept at raising and lowering the engine. I simply didn't allow for the steel reinforcing in my template-based testing. I'm not quite sure how but there it is - rank stupidity! There is an upside, which I'll get to in a minute. With help - extremely gracious and greatly appreciated help, from a couple of friends, I've spent the last couple of days grinding and cutting 10mm steel plate, in the boat, under the engine, and finally, removing one of the engine beds. Here:

    Engine install 4.jpg

    The happy ending to this part of the process was today, however. Last night I constructed a new engine bed from PNG rosewood and today, with the help of my great friend David, we fitted it - well, nearly fitted it. Final fitting and installation will happen tomorrow and I'll take a photo of it. The real upside is that in removing one of the engine beds, i found that it really wasn't fastened in by much at all. No one could have known that without removing it but it means that were we knocked over, it's highly likely the engine would have been dislodged and that could have wrecked the boat. The beds were installed in around 1980 - it seems miraculous to me that there hasn't been an incident . Aaaaanyway, the new bed and the old bed will be fastened REALLY WELL now!

    So the future looks brighter now but it's been a worrying few days and my confidence in template building ain't great at this point!

    These are the conditons I subject my friends to. So if you're planning to drop in over the next few days, I suggest you don't!!

    Rick
    Attached Images Attached Images

  24. #269
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    Default Re: Installing new Nanni engine

    Sounds like that 'rank stupidity' has saved a disaster at sea in the making, so really it was a case of 'rank genius'.

  25. #270
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    Default Re: Installing new Nanni engine

    Serendipitous but definitely no genius!! I really felt like an idiot when that engine went in, or rather, didn't go in!

    Rick

  26. #271
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    Default Re: Installing new Nanni engine

    Easily done (mistakes), turns out for the best though, i imagine there was some cussing going on initially......

  27. #272
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    Default Re: Installing new Nanni engine

    Yes, words were spoken. Words that won't be repeated here!

    Rick

  28. #273
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    Default Re: Installing new Nanni engine

    Only natural for a sailor to speak clearly and to the point as befits the occasion.

  29. #274
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    Default Re: Installing new Nanni engine

    During a knockdown I have seen a gas stove and oven on the galley floor ,have heard tales of masts taking out deck sections but an engine demolishing a cockpit is a new one to me.
    Good to hear it’s going to be installed correctly.

  30. #275
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    Default Re: Installing new Nanni engine

    That sounds a bit epic. In a bad way. Glad you are over the worst of it.

  31. #276
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    Default Re: Installing new Nanni engine

    Gluing it in today and fastening both in tomorrow.

    Rick

  32. #277
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    Default Re: Installing new Nanni engine

    Well, the new bed and steel reinforcing are in and we're all set to install the engine tomorrow. No point in posting photos as it looks just like the previous photos - and I haven't taken any new ones! All bronze ball valves have been replaced with Tru-design ones with the exception of the water intake for the toilet as it's quite new and looks too perfect to touch! If it goes green, I'll replace it next time. I'm hoping the motor fits well tomorrow so I can get on with building the new cockpit sole/ hatch before it rains again ....

    Rick

  33. #278
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    Default Re: Installing new Nanni engine

    Quote Originally Posted by auscruisertom View Post
    During a knockdown I have seen a gas stove and oven on the galley floor ,have heard tales of masts taking out deck sections but an engine demolishing a cockpit is a new one to me.
    Good to hear it’s going to be installed correctly.
    Apparently there have also been cases of a prop catching rope and, due to inadequate beds or mounts, actually spinning the engine in the boat. That would be such fun .....

    Rick

  34. #279
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    Default Re: Installing new Nanni engine

    Look what we now have installed in our boat:

    Engine insta;ll 8.jpg

    Looks alright there, doesn't it? Maybe I will fall in love ....

    Here's a shot showing the engine through the new accessway I cut into the cabin:

    Engine install 7.jpg

    Installation Mk II wenr well, everything fitted and alignment was pretty straightforward. The process from finding the engine wouldn't fit was this:

    1. Store engine above the cockpit to allow access to the engine bay.
    2. Remove problematic engine bed.
    3. Rebuild and temprorarily install engine bed. This was done by measuring and levelling off the remaining bed, lowering and locating the engine and installing the shaft coupling to perform an initial engine alignment.
    4. Install engine bed and steel reinforcing plate. Install new fastenings for both beds and install blocks to brace the new bed.
    5. Repaint the engine bay and install aft drip tray. Moulded by me - good to have it right out of sight!
    6. Perform a second engine alignment to locate the position of mounting bolts.
    7. Remove engine and drill and tap threaded holes in the steel reinforcing plate for the engine mount bolts.
    8. Lower engine back in and perform penultimate alignment.
    9. Install flexible coupling - that's the red thing - Polyflex.
    10. Later on - a second alignment will be performed once the boat is back on her mooring.

    I now have to seal up the cockpit. Most of the floor will be a waterproof hatch. The forward end of the cockpit from the floor (sole) up about 200mm will be removable too but as portable as the sole. I hasve all the wiring, water, fuel, exhaust etc.to hook up too, of course. I may take the wiring harness to a local electrical guy as it's currently about the same length of the boat whereas I really only need a metre of it.

    So, great to be at this stage and, once again, big thanks to my friend David who guided the alignment process. I haven't done it before.

    Rick

  35. #280
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    Default Re: Installing new Nanni engine

    Looking good! How did you spec the polyflex coupling? How much alignment tolerance do they have?
    There is nothing quite as permanent as a good temporary repair.

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