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Thread: installation of deck hardware

  1. #1

    Default installation of deck hardware

    What is the preferred way to install cleats, chocks, blocks etc., bolts or screws? epoxy or adhesive sealant? are backing plates necessary?

  2. #2
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    Default Re: installation of deck hardware

    need more details about the boat
    If I had a dollar for every girl who found me unattractive, eventually they would find me attractive.

  3. #3
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    Default Re: installation of deck hardware

    Yup, depends on the boat.

  4. #4

    Default Re: installation of deck hardware

    The boat is a CLC swampscott dory and I will be putting bronze cleats and rowlocks on the rail

  5. #5
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    Default Re: installation of deck hardware

    My two cents: Through-bolts, backing plates, bed in butyl tape -- do it right once, and you don't have to worry about it.

    Butyl Tape How&Why (LINK)

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  6. #6
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    Default Re: installation of deck hardware

    Quote Originally Posted by sharpiefan View Post
    My two cents: Through-bolts, backing plates, bed in butyl tape -- do it right once, and you don't have to worry about it.

    Butyl Tape How&Why (LINK)
    Boom! Couldn’t have said it better myself.

  7. #7
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    Default Re: installation of deck hardware

    I use Dolphinite as bedding. Always and only.

    For sheaar strains as for halyard and sheet cleats, I'm good with screws with a little Dolphinite on the threads going in if it's regular wood. But if it's going into plywood, I like to flood the hole with CPES and still use Dolphinite.

    For pull strains, as on sheet blocks, I go with through bolts to a backing plate. Again with the Dolphinite and if through plywood with the CPES.

    For bolts in plywood I used to overbore, fill with epoxy, and then when it's cured bore to the bolt size. I have come to believe that flooding the hole with CPES does fine, and that as the bolt or screw is turned in the threads will allow the CPES to spread into the plywood and give enough protection.

  8. #8

    Default Re: installation of deck hardware

    Thank you for all the great experience that you all are sharing, I really appreciate it!

  9. #9
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    Default Re: installation of deck hardware

    If it's planked, what Ian said. For stitch and glue I'm a believer in through bolting wherever possible and "drill-fill-drill" to isolate the wood. On epoxy surfaces I like to bed with butyl tape, but that's ;cause I haven'tr tried Ian's Dolphinite yet.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
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    Corvallis
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    Default Re: installation of deck hardware

    I've been using both adhesive and non-adhesive sealers on my boat depending on the application. Removing a piece of hardware in the future is going to be a lot easier with butyl tape. The tape is super easy to use especially for clean up. It doesn't dry out so you can take your time. Plastic razor blades really helps removing the squeeze out. G10 sheets come in a number of thicknesses and sizes and is easy to fashion into backing plates.



  11. #11
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    Default Re: installation of deck hardware

    I'll toss in my 2 cents...

    Dolphinite has been around forever - OK maybe not forever, but pushing 100 years I bet. It works really well. Butyl tape is a newer tech that a lot of people seem to have very good luck with.

    Screwing vs through-bolting: my take is that stronger is better - and through-bolting is stronger - as long as the bolts have proper backing. Washers are fine for a light duty cleat, but a solid plate that all bolts go through is even better. Remember that the washers/plate need to be bedded as well! Obviously, some things cannot be through-bolted (cleat on a mast for example). If using screws, make sure that the pilot holes are the correct size & make them as deep as possible.

    The latest issue of WB has some info on cleats in it. Certainly not exhaustive - but worth a look.
    "If it ain't broke, you're not trying." - Red Green

  12. #12
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    Default Re: installation of deck hardware

    The caveat I'd add to Garret's comment about backing plates is to make sure you do not bed them if the fasteners are going through into a cabin. I prefer to not bed inside a cabin so if my topside seal fails I'm not trapping moisture between layers. But then most of what I've worked on was epoxy coated or cored boats. Hence my propensity for "drill-fill-drill" or as I did on one boat, epoxy in phenolic tubing bushings for each through deck fastener. I did have one fastener leak, but nothing got into the core.

  13. #13

    Default Re: installation of deck hardware

    Nice, thanks for the pics! I'd never heard of g10 plates, I'll check it out. thanks

  14. #14
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    Default Re: installation of deck hardware

    Quote Originally Posted by sharpiefan View Post
    My two cents: Through-bolts, backing plates, bed in butyl tape -- do it right once, and you don't have to worry about it.

    Butyl Tape How&Why (LINK)
    +1
    Good link. Don't miss the second page.
    This ITW butyl tape was supplied with a tile seal for a bath tub. It looks like a good butyl tape for bedding and window seals.
    Tacky-tape. one source is Amazon

    Quote Originally Posted by altfj View Post
    Nice, thanks for the pics! I'd never heard of g10 plates, I'll check it out. thanks
    G-10 is a high quality circuit board material. FR-4 is the flame retardant version, and it might be easier to find.
    Micarta is a familiar name for phenolic laminate material, which is similar, and the same company makes a lot of G-10, so I will give you their link. Not my favorite web page, but the technical information isn't too hard to find.
    https://www.norplex-micarta.com/elec...tandards/nema/
    These are better sales sites:
    https://www.professionalplastics.com/ILNNorplexMicarta
    http://www.alro.com/divplastics/plas...licfamily.aspx
    Management is the art of counting beans. Leadership is the art of making every being count. --Joe Finch

  15. #15
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    Frenchman's Cove, Newfoundland and Labrador, Canada
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    231

    Default Re: installation of deck hardware

    Would the advice here differ if instead of "deck hardware" it were called "rail hardware", because according to post#4 that's where the hardware will go.

    Will the oarlocks have riser blocks or will they be fastened directly to the gunwale? If directly to the gunwale, on the inside or the outside?

    How wide and thick is the gunwale assembly, and does it involve a spacered/scuppered gunwale?

    I'll end up installing similar hardware on a self-designed small open boat so I am following this with interest.

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