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Thread: Awlgrip v Epifanes two part

  1. #1
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    Default Awlgrip v Epifanes two part

    Hi All,

    I am looking for some advice on the pros and cons of Epifanes v Awlgrip. I own a 1952 Huckins and I'm painting the house and cockpit areas which are constructed of plywood which is in good condition. The boat is currently painted with awlgrip and I am taking most of areas down to bare wood due to the thickness of the current coating and some limited peeling. My plan is to coat bare wood with two coats of West Epoxy to keep it stable, followed by Awlgrip or Epifanes following manufacturers recommended methods.

    Specifically what I'm hoping to find out is which product is generally more user friendly to roll and tip and even more importantly any thoughts on which is more durable- maintains gloss the longest?

    thanks a lot.

  2. #2
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    Default Re: Awlgrip v Epifanes two part

    Answer to question1: Awl Grip
    Answer to question2: Awl Grip

  3. #3
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    Default Re: Awlgrip v Epifanes two part

    There have been notable and spectacular failures with Awlgrip on traditional boats. Great sheets of it peeling off. While it is possible for a very talented amateur to apply Awlgrip it is a very nasty (toxic) product to work with.

    It does maintain its gloss for a long time. Undercoating with epoxy is not recommended.

  4. #4
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    Default Re: Awlgrip v Epifanes two part

    I've brushed a little bit of awl grip and a bit more of epicfanny.(It has been 3 decades since I used one part paint on the outside of my boats).
    Epicprofanity is easier to use in that the magic liquid gel comes in a better package that makes it possible to mix a small amount and re seal.
    I believe that LP and epoxy generally live in matrimony.

  5. #5
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    Default Re: Awlgrip v Epifanes two part

    Ha. I might have to go with the Epifanes just so if I get asked I can say an Epicprofanity if I get asked what I used to paint the boat.Not that I usually need an excuse. Bruce do you have an opinion if one or the other lasts better? PC I can't imagine LP peeling off plywood in great sheets..wish me luck because I'm far from talented! Here's the kind of surface I'm talking about.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  6. #6
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    Default Re: Awlgrip v Epifanes two part

    Epifanes is somewhat harder to use because of its viscosity. Man O War is easier to handle.

    It appears that your substrate is doug fir plywood. I assume you are going to paint this since it is not an attractive wood. However, my experience has been that it is difficult to get the stuff to hold still. Merely painting on epoxy likely will not work because it will crack right through the epoxy and paint. What I have done is to apply very light fiberglass cloth over the epoxy. That seems to work.

    Awlgrip is best used on material which is stable like fiberglass or metal. You are stabilizing the material with the epoxy and cloth. But I would not use it because of its difficulty of use particularly for a beginner and its toxicity.
    Last edited by pcford; 12-03-2017 at 04:09 PM.

  7. #7
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    Default Re: Awlgrip v Epifanes two part

    I normally paint the topsides on a double carvel planked hull in Awlgrip. It flows well, and you a have a great skin time if you roll and tip....One year I changed for epifanes. never again. It was a nightmare to get to flow right. In the end I flatted it back again and finished with Awlgrip on top.

    p.s
    i would say that west system in unnecessary. I would just go for any epoxy based paint primer.

  8. #8
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    Default Re: Awlgrip v Epifanes two part

    Quote Originally Posted by pcford View Post
    Epifanes is somewhat harder to use because of its viscosity. Man O War is easier to handle.

    It appears that your substrate is doug fir plywood. I assume you are going to paint this since it is not an attractive wood. However, my experience has been that it is difficult to get the stuff to hold still. Merely painting on epoxy likely will not work because it will crack right through the epoxy and paint. What I have done is to apply very light fiberglass cloth over the epoxy. That seems to work.

    Awlgrip is best used on material which is stable like fiberglass or metal. You are stabilizing the material with the epoxy and cloth. But I would not use it because of its difficulty of use particularly for a beginner and its toxicity.
    As much as it pains me to suggest you take advice from an Irishman <G>... Pat is spot on when it comes to painting/coating douglas fir plywood. Any face of rotary-cut face veneer will want to check, but douglas fir is by far the worst in my experience. I also prefer Awl-Grip, but have rolled and tipped both. I doubt you'll be unhappy with either. But beware sags on vertical surfaces. I mean REALLY beware. If you're an experienced painter - you'll be fine with just that warning. If you're not, you might want to switch to a basic marine enamel that has less flow-out (flow-down).
    David G
    Harbor Woodworks
    http://www.harborwoodworking.com/boat.html

    "It was a Sunday morning and Goddard gave thanks that there were still places where one could worship in temples not made by human hands." -- L. F. Herreshoff (The Compleat Cruiser)

  9. #9
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    Default Re: Awlgrip v Epifanes two part

    Thanks Rhodes and David for the advice.

    For areas that are in the weather I will epoxy and fiberglass to stabilize. For areas under the hard top I'll take my chances with epoxy saturation. I'm a fair to middling painter so based on advice received here and reading both Epifanes and Awlgrip instructions and MDS front to back - I'll take my chances with Awlgrip rolling and tipping. I get it - roll it out really thin and tip and multiple coats for coverage if need-be.

    I'll chronicle my adventures in my 1952 Huckins thread - thanks again for all advice gratefully received.

  10. #10
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    Default Re: Awlgrip v Epifanes two part

    I have had excellent results from linear polyurethanes on epoxy coated wood by using a high build epoxy primer. I use an Interlux product, I believe it is 404/414 or some such. Never had an adhesion failure using this system.
    Ratus ratus bilgeous snipeous!

    You must be the change you wish to see in the world."
    Mahatma Gandhi

  11. #11
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    Default Re: Awlgrip v Epifanes two part

    Thanks Bob,

    That's my plan (bare wood - 2 coats of West system - 80 grit sand - filler - epoxy primer - sand and final filler - epoxy primer- sand and top coat - sand and top coat).

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
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    Default Re: Awlgrip v Epifanes two part

    Dear Lisc,
    Don’t forget to use a scotchbrite pad and water to remove amine blush after applying and letting the epoxy dry before samding. This will help assure good adhesion of the paint to the epoxy.

  13. #13
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    Default Re: Awlgrip v Epifanes two part

    Yes thank you, it definitely blushed more so because of cold weather. I'm going to follow up with acetone as well. I might be done with product application because of weather for a few months now. It's ok, still much scraping and sanding to be done.��

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