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Thread: H28 Genesta

  1. #36
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    Default Re: H28 Genesta

    Hi Jim,
    For that cracked frame, I would be inclined to scarf in a new inner cap, that is correctly, pre-bent to the curve. I think, if I were doing it, I might consider riveting it in place as the screws won't produce much draw unless you can brace the laminate well during the glue cure. I also would use G/flex epoxy for this one. A sister frame is less work but I would be re-miss to spoil the lovely look of your framing layout.
    Gotta give you some more kudos for the way you are taking care of your fine little ship!
    Bravo!
    Jay

  2. #37
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    Apr 2010
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    Default Re: H28 Genesta

    [QUOTE=gypsie;5443878

    PS - my teak overlay on ply; ply has rotted - bit of a job to pull up the whole thing and replace. If i was laying a teak deck, i'd lay ply and glass over it and then glue (not nail/screw) the teak to it. Let the teak delaminate if it wants to, its a much easier to repair that than to pull up a deck. Phil Y - interested to know how you're deck went.[/QUOTE]

    So far life, lack of funds and reluctance to tackle a huge job has gotten in the way. A week or so ago I tore up a couple of small patches of teak where I could see there was rot underneath, cut back to good ply and scarfed in new ply patches.

  3. #38
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    Jun 2017
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    Brisbane Australia
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    19

    Default Re: H28 Genesta

    Quote Originally Posted by Rich Jones View Post
    This is a great thread. One question. In the first post is a picture of the forepeak when you bought the boat. Is that a marine head perched up there? I admire what you've done with the forepeak, but where is the head?
    Currently doesn't have one..............
    I'm 6ft6 (2m tall) so the head up the front was pretty useless for me as well as the existing bunks. Also I've made the V berth longer than larks (about 1 more frame) and other ones I've seen on here.

  4. #39
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    Default Re: H28 Genesta

    Quote Originally Posted by James Chilman View Post
    Hi,
    Yes I need to repair that, Still looking at the best way. It's only cracked through the inside half of the frame. The frames are made up to two pieces of wood laminated together.
    what would be the best and easiest way? tossing up between laminating some this strips of timber to sister the frame, cutting out a plywood one to fit each side of the crack, or just grinding out the crack and filling with fibreglass.
    Generally speaking a sister sits alongside. Best, and not difficult, is to cut out a section of the damaged inner laminate and glue in a new piece of timber, either bent or carved to fit. Cut the old out with a multi tool, chisel or whatever works. Not a difficult job I don't think, you've got great access.

  5. #40
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    Default Re: H28 Genesta

    Quote Originally Posted by Larks View Post




    I wonder if that’s through both laminates of the frame or just the visible one? And am wondering if it could be a scarf repair similar to what I’ve seen someone else here do somewhere - i.e. shave back the fame about 2-300mm either side of the crack down to the second laminate, or the hull if need be, nicely tapered to accept a scarfed in piece to be glued/epoxied and fastened to the remaining frame and hull.

    Others may have better ideas, but I expect that this would be sufficient if done properly and would be neater than a sistered frame. If you google scarfed boat frame or boat rib repair you’ll find plenty of examples.

    James, this is something like what I was referring to earlier, but only through the inside most laminate if that’s as far as the crack goes - however I wouldn’t take it down to a V like in this sketch, I’d flatten it out for about 100-200mm with the scarfe's either side:




    Here’s a link to another one from this forum with how he’s done it:
    http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthre...irs-first-post

    that link includes a post from Kerry (floating Kiwi) showing the method from



    Last edited by Larks; 01-09-2018 at 07:49 PM.
    Larks

    “It’s impossible”, said pride.
    “It’s risky”, said experience.
    “It’s pointless”, said reason.
    “Give it a try”, whispered the heart.

    LPBC Beneficiary

    "Keep away from people who try to belittle your ambitions. Small people always do that, but the really great make you feel that you, too, can become great!"

  6. #41
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    Default Re: H28 Genesta

    That's perfect. I'll give that a go.
    The Boatcoat epoxy I've got from boat craft pacific has a bit of flew in it like the Gflex west systems. It's meant to have been made for use with timber boats and have a little flex before it will break.
    It's great stuff to work with.
    The crack is defiantly only in the top laminate.

  7. #42
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    Jun 2017
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    Brisbane Australia
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    Default Re: H28 Genesta

    Would anyone know the wetted surface area of a H28? I'm going to be slipping the boat for anti foul soon and need to work out how much I'll need.
    The only anti foul which I've found locally which is green is altex no.5. are there any other ones out there which are green?

  8. #43
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    Apr 2015
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    St. Helens, Oregon
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    Default Re: H28 Genesta

    No idea on the wetted surface, but I see Total Boat has a green in a couple of their antifouling paints. It's darker than the "Herreshoff Green", though.

  9. #44
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    Default Re: H28 Genesta

    Quote Originally Posted by James Chilman View Post
    Would anyone know the wetted surface area of a H28? I'm going to be slipping the boat for anti foul soon and need to work out how much I'll need.
    The only anti foul which I've found locally which is green is altex no.5. are there any other ones out there which are green?

    James, I estimated to allow roughly 20sqm for antifoul without getting too anal/technical about calculating it....waterline roughly 7.5m, draft @1.2m, less a bit under the bow and the stern, more a bit for the beam/curve under the hull.....

    Have a look at Jotun for colours - I think they have a green close to the H28 green.

    But also have a chat to the guys where your boat is moored to see what types of antifoul are working for them and which aren’t - what is superb in Sydney or Adelaide can be crap up our way in warmer water with different sea life and vice versa, so a complete waste of money when a few dollars more or less may make all the difference. Jotun had been popular around the Gold Coast when I was at Stella marine so I took it that it had been pretty effective in our area. I was given a good supply of Jotun by a friendly owner who had a couple of 20litre tins left over from a large job so I have that in the glory box for my hull (if it doesn’t go off), but I didn’t really research what was working in the area because I wasn’t ready for it and I’ll use what was free first anyway, regardless of how well it works.
    Last edited by Larks; 01-11-2018 at 11:28 PM.
    Larks

    “It’s impossible”, said pride.
    “It’s risky”, said experience.
    “It’s pointless”, said reason.
    “Give it a try”, whispered the heart.

    LPBC Beneficiary

    "Keep away from people who try to belittle your ambitions. Small people always do that, but the really great make you feel that you, too, can become great!"

  10. #45
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    Jun 2017
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    Default Re: H28 Genesta

    It been a bit quite on the boat front over the last month.

    In between working flat out, moving house and sailing with other people I've also started up my own canvas company out of home. so if anyone needs some canvas work done I know a guy.........
    Jimmy's Canvas and Bags on facebook, jchilman5@gmail.com or PM me on here.
    Keeping the business with low overhead I can do a lot of work with simple measure yourself sheet for stuff such as boom covers, keeping the price down.

    I have refinished my tiller, and am most of my way through building a new asymmetric kite for the boat.
    Wynnum Manly Yacht Club host a short handed series which starts this Sunday which I'm entering, so it will be interesting how I go against the other boats.

    Here the tiller getting clear coated at work, I don't have any close up pictures of it ATM.

    [IMG]Untitled by James Chilman, on Flickr[/IMG]

    Here is the kite, trying to go for a more classic look of the alternating panels with fabric which we had left over from other jobs.

    [IMG]Untitled by James Chilman, on Flickr[/IMG]


    Practicing a handsewn ring for up coming sails.
    Learnt a fair bit and the next ones will be neater.
    [IMG]Untitled by James Chilman, on Flickr[/IMG]



    Glamour sail back across the bay on the Australia Day long weekend (Jan 26th for those not in AUS)
    Sitting on 6knt hitting 7 while towing the dinghy (****ty inflatable with a heap of drag)
    [IMG]Untitled by James Chilman, on Flickr[/IMG]

  11. #46
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    Adelaide South Australia
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    Default Re: H28 Genesta

    James, I did rib repairs just like the bottom picture in Gregs post #40, to start, carefully clean putty/paint etc, from rivet head holes in hull (small wire brush, maybe 10mm diam in cordless drill, slow and careful!), holes must be clean! Removed roves with angle grinder to peened part, flip rove off, pin punch rivet out carefully with someone outside with dolly hard against plank until rivet head strikes dolly, then another dolly with hole just big enough for rivet head. Remove rivets at teast 300mm either side of crack. Contour existing rib ends so that there is a continous smooth curve in the 2 scarfs just touching the hull at the former crack. I use angle grinder 24 grit to shape, 80 to finish. I used Karri in 5mm thick strips to lay in, epoxied to each other and the existing rib. Hold in place with a couple of toms and watch while someone outside drill a 1/8 pilot hole and use 8g gyprock screws with large metal washers to pull the Karri strips in to place while the epoxy sets. When set, use angle grinder, 24g/80g to smooth the ends of the strips and then start backing out one screw at a time and replace with rivet and rove. I did this about 60 times on Ghost and most of them under a stringer. There was language, especially when the drill went into the end of the thumb. Not sure what other timber than Karri, Spotted gum? Not Jarrah. Adrian
    the invisible man........

  12. #47
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    Nov 2004
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    Default Re: H28 Genesta

    Quote Originally Posted by Phil Y View Post
    So far life, lack of funds and reluctance to tackle a huge job has gotten in the way. A week or so ago I tore up a couple of small patches of teak where I could see there was rot underneath, cut back to good ply and scarfed in new ply patches.
    If possible, I would have strong words with the first person that laid teak over plywood sub decking thinking it was a good idea! Even stronger words would follow if he was the one that advocated doing it for the general boating public to believe in!

    Much safer, much easier and much more elegant is to lay down a straight laid sub deck of quarter inch Alaska Yellow or other appropriate Cedar planks that is detailed by a costom made pair of router bits or a T&G molding plane to make the planks into"1/4" Car Siding" Every time you look at the over head in your boat you will feel good in knowing that the sub deck will not rot! And, every time you look at it it's appearance will please your eye! It can also be covered with a layer of glass or dynel before laying the teak. Then you will have a deck that may even outlast you! " Car Siding" is the name for the T&G siding as it was first used in railway cars.
    Jay
    Last edited by Jay Greer; 02-13-2018 at 12:23 PM.

  13. #48
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    Jun 2017
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    Default Re: H28 Genesta

    Hi All,
    It's been a while between posts but a fair amount of progress has been made,
    I've slipped the boat and,
    Filled the seams which needed filling,
    Sanded the hull smooth (smooth but not necessary fair)
    Repainted the hull sides (topsides?) in white enamel
    sanded back the antifoul
    Re antifouled the hull

    When we removed the rudder to clean it up we found that the pintal second from the bottom had broken (the pin was no longer attached)
    It looked like it had been like that for some time, so only the very bottom one was really stopping the rudder from peeling off sideways......

    I also shifted the water line on the hull. I don't think that it had ever been moved? and with the larger motor and 2 x 100L stainless tanks under the cockpit seats she sat a bit stern down in the water.
    Not sure why you would put a 100L tank in a little 28ft sail boat (I can motor over 300nm with out refuelling)

    Overall the hull itself is in pretty good nick, only found one small spot with a bit of rot in it under the chainplate for the mizzen shrouds on the pt side.
    The boat sat straight on it keel in the trolley, it didn't sit on the side arm at all.

    I've also been working on the bright work on the cabin sides and a few other things as well!

    Here are some pictures of the progress.

    [IMG]Untitled by James Chilman, on Flickr[/IMG]
    I got my Dad hard at work filling in seams in the planks

    [IMG]Untitled by James Chilman, on Flickr[/IMG]
    I think because the boat sat so long with out moving that the creamy colour (the previous own mixed it himself.....) got quite hot and aided in the shrinking of the planks. It was quite bad when you looked up close

    [IMG]Untitled by James Chilman, on Flickr[/IMG]
    Here she is with a coat of primer on the sides and bottom of the hull.


    Ready to go back into the water.
    I want to take the transom back to timber and clear it but ran out of time when on the slip (it's great fun trying to paint in between rain showers....)
    You can also see that the hull is smooth but not fair.
    [IMG]Untitled by James Chilman, on Flickr[/IMG]

    [IMG]Untitled by James Chilman, on Flickr[/IMG]

  14. #49
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    Aug 2015
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    Canberra, Australia
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    135

    Default Re: H28 Genesta

    Looks a million times better - well done!

  15. #50
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    Apr 2010
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    Default Re: H28 Genesta

    Looks great.

  16. #51
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    Default Re: H28 Genesta

    Quote Originally Posted by Jay Greer View Post
    If possible, I would have strong words with the first person that laid teak over plywood sub decking thinking it was a good idea! Even stronger words would follow if he was the one that advocated doing it for the general boating public to believe in!

    Much safer, much easier and much more elegant is to lay down a straight laid sub deck of quarter inch Alaska Yellow or other appropriate Cedar planks that is detailed by a costom made pair of router bits or a T&G molding plane to make the planks into"1/4" Car Siding" Every time you look at the over head in your boat you will feel good in knowing that the sub deck will not rot! And, every time you look at it it's appearance will please your eye! It can also be covered with a layer of glass or dynel before laying the teak. Then you will have a deck that may even outlast you! " Car Siding" is the name for the T&G siding as it was first used in railway cars.
    Jay
    No no thanks Jay, it's going to be glass or dynel over ply for me.

  17. #52
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    Jul 2007
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    Wongawallan Oz
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    Default Re: H28 Genesta

    Nice job James - what antifoul did you end up using and how did you go on quantity?
    Larks

    “It’s impossible”, said pride.
    “It’s risky”, said experience.
    “It’s pointless”, said reason.
    “Give it a try”, whispered the heart.

    LPBC Beneficiary

    "Keep away from people who try to belittle your ambitions. Small people always do that, but the really great make you feel that you, too, can become great!"

  18. #53
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    Dec 2001
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    Too far inland.
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    8,289

    Default Re: H28 Genesta

    Outstanding work.

    (and the blue/white alternating kite is a great choice)
    No adversary is worse than bad advice.

  19. #54
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    Jun 2017
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    Brisbane Australia
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    Default Re: H28 Genesta

    Quote Originally Posted by Larks View Post
    Nice job James - what antifoul did you end up using and how did you go on quantity?
    Used Altex no.5 green.
    I only found that altex and sea hawk available it green. the Alex was $225 for 4L and the sea hawk was going at $380 1 gallon (about 3.8L)
    I got some leftovers from a boatbuilding mate to use as the first layer (about 3.5L), and than the 4L tin of green did one complete coat with enough to do a second coat around the waterline, rudder and base of the keel.
    the first layer is a different colour, my mate recommended it as when the other colour (dk blue in this case) starts showing through it time to reapply.
    I had quite a few spots which had gone through to the primer which where the only spots where the was coral on the boat.
    It's amazing the difference it's made to the boat both motoring and sailing.
    Firstly it motors ,1knt faster (used to motor at 4.8-5.0 now nearly 5.5-5.8, did I mention that the bottom was really bad) and actually turns easier when docking.

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