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Thread: H28 Genesta

  1. #36
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Port Townsend WA
    Posts
    10,769

    Default Re: H28 Genesta

    Hi Jim,
    For that cracked frame, I would be inclined to scarf in a new inner cap, that is correctly, pre-bent to the curve. I think, if I were doing it, I might consider riveting it in place as the screws won't produce much draw unless you can brace the laminate well during the glue cure. I also would use G/flex epoxy for this one. A sister frame is less work but I would be re-miss to spoil the lovely look of your framing layout.
    Gotta give you some more kudos for the way you are taking care of your fine little ship!
    Bravo!
    Jay

  2. #37
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    South Australia and Tasmania
    Posts
    12,529

    Default Re: H28 Genesta

    [QUOTE=gypsie;5443878

    PS - my teak overlay on ply; ply has rotted - bit of a job to pull up the whole thing and replace. If i was laying a teak deck, i'd lay ply and glass over it and then glue (not nail/screw) the teak to it. Let the teak delaminate if it wants to, its a much easier to repair that than to pull up a deck. Phil Y - interested to know how you're deck went.[/QUOTE]

    So far life, lack of funds and reluctance to tackle a huge job has gotten in the way. A week or so ago I tore up a couple of small patches of teak where I could see there was rot underneath, cut back to good ply and scarfed in new ply patches.

  3. #38
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Brisbane Australia
    Posts
    16

    Default Re: H28 Genesta

    Quote Originally Posted by Rich Jones View Post
    This is a great thread. One question. In the first post is a picture of the forepeak when you bought the boat. Is that a marine head perched up there? I admire what you've done with the forepeak, but where is the head?
    Currently doesn't have one..............
    I'm 6ft6 (2m tall) so the head up the front was pretty useless for me as well as the existing bunks. Also I've made the V berth longer than larks (about 1 more frame) and other ones I've seen on here.

  4. #39
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    South Australia and Tasmania
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    12,529

    Default Re: H28 Genesta

    Quote Originally Posted by James Chilman View Post
    Hi,
    Yes I need to repair that, Still looking at the best way. It's only cracked through the inside half of the frame. The frames are made up to two pieces of wood laminated together.
    what would be the best and easiest way? tossing up between laminating some this strips of timber to sister the frame, cutting out a plywood one to fit each side of the crack, or just grinding out the crack and filling with fibreglass.
    Generally speaking a sister sits alongside. Best, and not difficult, is to cut out a section of the damaged inner laminate and glue in a new piece of timber, either bent or carved to fit. Cut the old out with a multi tool, chisel or whatever works. Not a difficult job I don't think, you've got great access.

  5. #40
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Wongawallan Oz
    Posts
    15,105

    Default Re: H28 Genesta

    Quote Originally Posted by Larks View Post




    I wonder if that’s through both laminates of the frame or just the visible one? And am wondering if it could be a scarf repair similar to what I’ve seen someone else here do somewhere - i.e. shave back the fame about 2-300mm either side of the crack down to the second laminate, or the hull if need be, nicely tapered to accept a scarfed in piece to be glued/epoxied and fastened to the remaining frame and hull.

    Others may have better ideas, but I expect that this would be sufficient if done properly and would be neater than a sistered frame. If you google scarfed boat frame or boat rib repair you’ll find plenty of examples.

    James, this is something like what I was referring to earlier, but only through the inside most laminate if that’s as far as the crack goes - however I wouldn’t take it down to a V like in this sketch, I’d flatten it out for about 100-200mm with the scarfe's either side:




    Here’s a link to another one from this forum with how he’s done it:
    http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthre...irs-first-post

    that link includes a post from Kerry (floating Kiwi) showing the method from



    Last edited by Larks; 01-09-2018 at 08:49 PM.
    Larks

    “It’s impossible”, said pride.
    “It’s risky”, said experience.
    “It’s pointless”, said reason.
    “Give it a try”, whispered the heart.

    LPBC Beneficiary

    "Keep away from people who try to belittle your ambitions. Small people always do that, but the really great make you feel that you, too, can become great!"

  6. #41
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Brisbane Australia
    Posts
    16

    Default Re: H28 Genesta

    That's perfect. I'll give that a go.
    The Boatcoat epoxy I've got from boat craft pacific has a bit of flew in it like the Gflex west systems. It's meant to have been made for use with timber boats and have a little flex before it will break.
    It's great stuff to work with.
    The crack is defiantly only in the top laminate.

  7. #42
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Brisbane Australia
    Posts
    16

    Default Re: H28 Genesta

    Would anyone know the wetted surface area of a H28? I'm going to be slipping the boat for anti foul soon and need to work out how much I'll need.
    The only anti foul which I've found locally which is green is altex no.5. are there any other ones out there which are green?

  8. #43
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Location
    St. Helens, Oregon
    Posts
    635

    Default Re: H28 Genesta

    No idea on the wetted surface, but I see Total Boat has a green in a couple of their antifouling paints. It's darker than the "Herreshoff Green", though.

  9. #44
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Wongawallan Oz
    Posts
    15,105

    Default Re: H28 Genesta

    Quote Originally Posted by James Chilman View Post
    Would anyone know the wetted surface area of a H28? I'm going to be slipping the boat for anti foul soon and need to work out how much I'll need.
    The only anti foul which I've found locally which is green is altex no.5. are there any other ones out there which are green?

    James, I estimated to allow roughly 20sqm for antifoul without getting too anal/technical about calculating it....waterline roughly 7.5m, draft @1.2m, less a bit under the bow and the stern, more a bit for the beam/curve under the hull.....

    Have a look at Jotun for colours - I think they have a green close to the H28 green.

    But also have a chat to the guys where your boat is moored to see what types of antifoul are working for them and which aren’t - what is superb in Sydney or Adelaide can be crap up our way in warmer water with different sea life and vice versa, so a complete waste of money when a few dollars more or less may make all the difference. Jotun had been popular around the Gold Coast when I was at Stella marine so I took it that it had been pretty effective in our area. I was given a good supply of Jotun by a friendly owner who had a couple of 20litre tins left over from a large job so I have that in the glory box for my hull (if it doesn’t go off), but I didn’t really research what was working in the area because I wasn’t ready for it and I’ll use what was free first anyway, regardless of how well it works.
    Last edited by Larks; 01-12-2018 at 12:28 AM.
    Larks

    “It’s impossible”, said pride.
    “It’s risky”, said experience.
    “It’s pointless”, said reason.
    “Give it a try”, whispered the heart.

    LPBC Beneficiary

    "Keep away from people who try to belittle your ambitions. Small people always do that, but the really great make you feel that you, too, can become great!"

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