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Thread: H28 Genesta

  1. #1
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    Default H28 Genesta

    I have recently acquired the H28 "Yarrandoo"

    It's been moored at Wynnum Many Yacht Club for a while now.
    It's not in the best shape with the previous owner just getting too old to keep up the maintenance.

    If anyone knows the boat or has any info on it's history it would be great to know. It was built at Griffins in Sydney in 1949 and launched in 1950. Originally call Genesta (I'm changing the name back to this as I had a bad run in with an etchells call yandoo at an etchells nationals once)

    When the previous owner bought her in 1995, he trucked it up from Sydney where I believe it had spent the rest of it's life.

    It's Carvel planked in queensland maple over oak frames, and still has the original spars and bronze boom fittings. Also a lot of the original interior including the metho stove and food cabinet.


    I'll keep updating as I go along with the work to get her back up and going. It's not going to be quite up to Larks and Bright Star level.

    0_4.jpgbp5137728826405590079.jpgIMG_2006.jpgIMG_2015.jpg

  2. #2
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    Default Re: H28 Genesta

    Nice looking boat; keep us posted.
    Afloat Magazine would be a good start in the search for info.
    PeterW

  3. #3
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    Default Re: H28 Genesta

    We love those H28s! Good color for the bottom, Herreshoff Green.
    Jay

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    Default Re: H28 Genesta

    Not sure how I missed this James but am looking forward to seeing what you do with her.
    Larks

    “It’s impossible”, said pride.
    “It’s risky”, said experience.
    “It’s pointless”, said reason.
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  5. #5
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    Default Re: H28 Genesta

    James,
    Nice boat, just general maintence that got let go or some more serious Greg style renos??


    Mal
    Quest

    Moving slowly towards a Welsford Sundowner.

    Hobart Wooden Boat Festival 2017, or maybe 2019ish??

    http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthre...undowner-build
    http://sundownerbuild.blogspot.com.au/

  6. #6
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    Default Re: H28 Genesta

    A bit of an update,
    The rigs came up great. after about 20h of sanding they look like new. especially with new rigging to boot (all white rope and stainless wire)
    We had a few interesting moment when taking them out and putting them back in.
    We used a jin pole from an etchells. Taking them out wasn't too bad just a bit heavier than an etchells rig.
    When we where putting the main mast back in with the rig all the way up ready to drop down the mast partners we got hit a particularly big gust....
    The wind got the rig ant started to swing out over the side of the boat. we had to hike the boat back flat before we could start to line the mast up and start to lower it down.

    I've done new boom covers which Velcro around the back of the boom (the old one stopped short and the back of each boom the varnish was shot where it sat in the sun)
    Also half way through building a new mizzen mainsail (I'm a sailmaker / canvas worker) for a bit of fun.

    I have a few pictures of the boat at the recent RQYS opening day and a few other things which I'll post when I can (it's not letting me upload pictures from my computer....) any tips greatly appreciated.

  7. #7
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    Default Re: H28 Genesta

    I’ve not had much success loading pics from the computer either James, so have just stuck with using Flickr to host them.

    I'm a sailmaker / canvas worker
    You’ll be everyones best friend here then
    Larks

    “It’s impossible”, said pride.
    “It’s risky”, said experience.
    “It’s pointless”, said reason.
    “Give it a try”, whispered the heart.

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    "Keep away from people who try to belittle your ambitions. Small people always do that, but the really great make you feel that you, too, can become great!"

  8. #8
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    Default Re: H28 Genesta

    I have always had sail covers that secure on the forward side of the mast. I can't understand why a canvas man would make them to secure on the after side.
    Tell us more about the new rigging! I added running backs to "Bright Star". Herreshoff made mention of them in the original plans. They help take the sag out of the jib stay. Let us know how she sails when you get that mizzen finished! Looking forward to your pictures! Fair Dinkum! or is it "Fare" Dinkam"?
    I use Shutter Fly to store my photos. Incidently, your boat looks very good!
    Jay
    Last edited by Jay Greer; 10-04-2017 at 12:28 PM.

  9. #9
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    Default Re: H28 Genesta

    Hi Jay,
    The covers still zip around the front of the mast, they just extend past the end of the boom to stop the below happening.


    MG]IMG_2009 by James Chilman, on Flickr[/IMG]

  10. #10
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    Default Re: H28 Genesta

    Here are some more pictures,

    [IMG]IMG_2289 by James Chilman, on Flickr[/IMG]
    You can see better in this picture there is a slight slope on the cabin sides, but not much. You can also see the boom covers extend past the back of the boom.

    [IMG]IMG_2305wide by James Chilman, on Flickr[/IMG]

    [IMG]IMG_2304 by James Chilman, on Flickr[/IMG]
    Here's a couple from RQYS opening day all done up with flags. The sail past was interesting with a hard left turn needed and the prop being offset on the port side......

    [IMG]IMG_2286 by James Chilman, on Flickr[/IMG]

  11. #11
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    Default Re: H28 Genesta

    Congratulations.....looking at your boat one really sees the perfection of Mr. Herreshoff's original plan with the lower cabin trunk. I totally get the stepped trunk normally seen on these boats, but they always loose some of the subtle grace. looking forward to your plan.

  12. #12
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    Default Re: H28 Genesta

    We are all happy for you! You made the right choice!
    Jay

  13. #13
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    Default Re: H28 Genesta

    spars, sail cover and awning all look terrific James, nice job.
    Larks

    “It’s impossible”, said pride.
    “It’s risky”, said experience.
    “It’s pointless”, said reason.
    “Give it a try”, whispered the heart.

    LPBC Beneficiary

    "Keep away from people who try to belittle your ambitions. Small people always do that, but the really great make you feel that you, too, can become great!"

  14. #14
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    Default Re: H28 Genesta

    Now I understand about the comment that the sail covers did not fully cover the boom. Sorry sometimes I speed skim when I read. I do like the new covers you made up! Most canvas guys make them too snug and then they don't ventilate and sometimes the sails end up with mildew. Yours are great!
    Jay
    PS, If you haven't seen this clip of our son Jaime sailing "Bright Star" in a heavy, Santana Wind, in S. California. Enjoy this blast at 8 1/2 kts (sat nav clocked speed!) in gusts. 8kt+ average speed over 18 miles down the coast.
    https://vimeo.com/2816887
    Last edited by Jay Greer; 10-05-2017 at 11:22 AM. Reason: add more info

  15. #15
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    Default Re: H28 Genesta

    Looks nice!

  16. #16
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    Default Re: H28 Genesta

    I asked for a new sailcover to be made loose and was informed by the canvas guy that if tight it would last longer.
    The second one was made by a sailor (and cover maker), it is looser and it has lasted twice as long and still going.

  17. #17
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    Default Re: H28 Genesta

    Next up is a new front hatch........ You can see from the pictures below that there are sections where there isn't any wood left.

    The new one is just the frame. I want to put teak panelling on it the same as the old one.
    Is it possible just to glue the teak down with out adding screws? I was planning on putting a layer of epoxy with glue powder down, laying the teak on top and weighing down. Is there any reason why this wont work?

    I also went for a sail on Saturday solo. so much fun. New mizzen was good and modifications to the mainsail where good. I was only using the little working jib in 12knts but still managing to do 4.5knts up wind and 6 down wind with a asso up.

    Has anyone ever just got rid of the lower forestay point? When I re-rigged the mast I didn't put it back in.

    Next up is fitting a V berth so we can do away in a few weeks

    [IMG]Untitled by James Chilman, on Flickr[/IMG]

    [IMG]Untitled by James Chilman, on Flickr[/IMG]

    [IMG]Untitled by James Chilman, on Flickr[/IMG]


    [IMG]Untitled by James Chilman,
    on Flickr[/IMG][IMG
    [IMG]Untitled by James Chilman, on Flickr[/IMG]

    [IMG]Untitled by James Chilman, on Flickr[/IMG]

  18. #18
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    Default Re: H28 Genesta

    Personally I'd cover the hatch, which looks great by the way, with canvas or glass and epoxy. You can glue teak down. The risk is that with the top swelling and shrinking with moisture cycles, it will tear away from the epoxy as it cups and bows. And oc course whatever you put between staves, Flexi goop or black epoxy, will let go at the sides, let water in, which is then trapped etc.

  19. #19
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    Default Re: H28 Genesta

    There are a lot of discussions on here about laying teak decks over ply so you might find other info that’s useful with a bit of a search. But as Phil say’s, you can glue teak down, I’m not sure about the swelling and shrinking cycles but all of the larger F/glass hulls that I’ve worked on where we’ve laid teak decks have been simply epoxied over glass decks and most often vacuum bagged down - some use weights to hold it down but the guys who did it professionally for us always vacuum bagged it.

    So I’d be thinking that although you’ve painted the hatch, if you fully encapsulated it with epoxy to minimise water ingress a teak veneer glued to it would (should) be fine.

    Having said that though, what timber did you use for the frame James? It looks a little like oregon (I’m hoping not norfolk pine?) but I’m thinking that knot will be a prime spot for water ingress and rot to develop if it’s not epoxied and glassed over anyway.


    One other thing to consider, a minor one though, is that up here teak get’s quite hot in the summer and may add to heating up that forward cabin a little......probably insignificant but aside from that it also seems a bit of an odd spot for a patch of teak on the foredeck.

    Have you considered instead putting a tinted perspex hatch in there to get some light up forward? You can cover it with canvas or fit a blind under it any time you want to keep the sun/light out. If you want some teak for the appearance you can trim the hatch and the perspex with it.
    Last edited by Larks; 10-12-2017 at 09:45 PM.
    Larks

    “It’s impossible”, said pride.
    “It’s risky”, said experience.
    “It’s pointless”, said reason.
    “Give it a try”, whispered the heart.

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    "Keep away from people who try to belittle your ambitions. Small people always do that, but the really great make you feel that you, too, can become great!"

  20. #20
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    Default Re: H28 Genesta

    Also James, next time you are on the boat would you mind checking if your cabin sides are plumb or slightly angled in from bottom to top? Perhaps take a measurement across from one side to the other at the base and another at the top to see what, if any, difference there might be.

    The plans show them as plumb but I’m sure that I’ve heard somewhere to slightly rake them in on the H28 and Phil’s dad’s boat, although not a H28, looks right with them done that way. Yours also looks right, as does Jay’s Bright Star, so I’m wondering if there’s an angle to them that provides the illusion to them looking plumb rather than looking like they are leaning out...... if that makes sense.
    Larks

    “It’s impossible”, said pride.
    “It’s risky”, said experience.
    “It’s pointless”, said reason.
    “Give it a try”, whispered the heart.

    LPBC Beneficiary

    "Keep away from people who try to belittle your ambitions. Small people always do that, but the really great make you feel that you, too, can become great!"

  21. #21
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    Default Re: H28 Genesta

    Damn near every boat I have seen that has had decks of teak glued over ply that are close to twenty or more years old has had the plywood rotted out under the teak!
    This means destroying the teak to fix the plywood. Often the beams and sheer clamp are rotten too! I prefer a sub deck of 5/16" or 3/8" cedar T&G with a layer of glass or carbon fiber set in resin over that. The T & G is strait laid and the staves are painted on the underside before being laid and is nice to look at from beneath. This is followed by the Teak, set in bedding compound, which needs to be at least 3/4" or more thick. I like 1" because it is easier to edge set and allows for the scrubbing, scraping and sanding plus recaulking that is inevitable over the years. This kind of deck will remain tight and cost less in the long run because it will last! If there is concern about the weight of the teak, Alaska Yellow Cedar can be used in its place. Eastern White Pine works well too. It goes without saying that decks that are of this kind should be made up of vertical grain stock.
    Jay
    Last edited by Jay Greer; 10-13-2017 at 01:44 PM.

  22. #22
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    Default Re: H28 Genesta

    That's an interesting approach Jay, and coming from you I'm sure it works. Pretty much an inversion of the usual thin teak veneer over a strucural ply deck. The cedar is pretty much an internal veneer for a pleasant internal look and feel. A waterproof membrane of glass. Then a real laid deck on top. I am about to finally bite the bullet and remove the teak veneer from my 43 year old decks, and replace some or all of the ply, depending what I find. I think it will just be some. But that's my summer cut out.

  23. #23
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    Default Re: H28 Genesta

    Phil, what I described is not a new idea. Decks have been laid over a sub deck this way for hundreds years. The only thing new is in replacing the canvas ,that was once used to add more water resistance, with a layer of glass cloth set in resin that does add some lateral rigidity to the deck panel. It is the driving of traditional caulking of the deck that turns the upper panel into a true structural component by forcing expansion to the decking staves in relation to each other. This is the same concept that the Romans used for construction a dome by adding an outer supporting ring to surround the inner structure of the dome. Think of the sheer clamp, stem, breast hook, and stern framing structure that serves the same purpose as the ring and the caulking as being akin to the weight of the dome. All components must work in harmony with one and other in order to be in harmony with the whole!
    Jay
    ,
    Last edited by Jay Greer; 10-14-2017 at 01:21 PM.

  24. #24
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    Default Re: H28 Genesta

    Bit more work done over the weekend even though it rained all weekend.

    I've template, cut, sealed and painted a new bulkhead to make an anchor locker. Also pulled out a half bulkhead which the switch board was in. Boat feels heaps bigger with it gone. So much space up the front which was not being used.



    [IMG]Untitled by James Chilman, on Flickr[/IMG]

    [IMG]Untitled by James Chilman, on Flickr[/IMG][IMG]


    Untitled by James Chilman, on Flickr[/IMG]

  25. #25
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    Default Re: H28 Genesta

    Nice to make progress isn't it!
    Jay

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    Default Re: H28 Genesta

    It's been a while between posts but a lot of progress.
    Still need to do a lot of work to get it all finished off but it's now very usable.

    [IMG]Untitled by James Chilman, on Flickr[/IMG]
    [IMG]Untitled by James Chilman, on Flickr[/IMG][IMG]

    You can see I still need to seal and paint all the plywood for the new V berth.
    I was pretty happy with how the cushions came out since it was my first go at upholstery. Defiantly have a lot of respect for the guys who do the really fiddly stuff like car seats and the like.

    Untitled by James Chilman, on Flickr[/IMG]
    [IMG]Untitled by James Chilman, on Flickr[/IMG]

    I went away on the boat for 5 days with my dog after getting back from doing the Sydney to Hobart race with one of our customers at work.
    Real step back in pace, Below are a few pictures taken of us halfway across bass straight. Our average VMG (not course over the ground!) for the 628nm course was 13.1knts. we set the 5th fastest time ever for a conventional ballasted boat (no canting keel or water ballast)

    Planning on slipping her (the boat) to re so the anti foul and paint the hull sides early this year.
    Does anyone have any tips when it comes to painting the hull sides? the existing paint has all cracked on the edges of the planks where they have moved and shrunk.

    [IMG]Untitled by James Chilman, on Flickr[/IMG]
    [IMG]Untitled by James Chilman, on Flickr[/IMG]

  27. #27
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    Default Re: H28 Genesta

    Nice job all ‘round James - and 'love the hound photo.
    Larks

    “It’s impossible”, said pride.
    “It’s risky”, said experience.
    “It’s pointless”, said reason.
    “Give it a try”, whispered the heart.

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    "Keep away from people who try to belittle your ambitions. Small people always do that, but the really great make you feel that you, too, can become great!"

  28. #28
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    Default Re: H28 Genesta

    Hi John, Watching with admiration and envy. I do have a question about that rib just forward of the starboard upper chainplate. Is that a crack that's sistered where we can't see it or am I looking at it wrong?

  29. #29
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    Default Re: H28 Genesta

    On your topsides Id suggest use traditional oil based paint, as its softer. House paint might actually be better than marine paint. You should still expect some cracking on the seams. I hang some shade cloth on the north facing side of my boat to keep the worst of the sun off.

  30. #30
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    Default Re: H28 Genesta

    This is a great thread. One question. In the first post is a picture of the forepeak when you bought the boat. Is that a marine head perched up there? I admire what you've done with the forepeak, but where is the head?
    I was born on a wooden boat that I built myself.

  31. #31
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    Default Re: H28 Genesta

    Wow...Absolutely lovely boat.

  32. #32
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    Default Re: H28 Genesta

    Quote Originally Posted by Hugh MacD View Post
    Hi John, Watching with admiration and envy. I do have a question about that rib just forward of the starboard upper chainplate. Is that a crack that's sistered where we can't see it or am I looking at it wrong?






    I wonder if that’s through both laminates of the frame or just the visible one? And am wondering if it could be a scarf repair similar to what I’ve seen someone else here do somewhere - i.e. shave back the fame about 2-300mm either side of the crack down to the second laminate, or the hull if need be, nicely tapered to accept a scarfed in piece to be glued/epoxied and fastened to the remaining frame and hull.

    Others may have better ideas, but I expect that this would be sufficient if done properly and would be neater than a sistered frame. If you google scarfed boat frame or boat rib repair you’ll find plenty of examples.
    Larks

    “It’s impossible”, said pride.
    “It’s risky”, said experience.
    “It’s pointless”, said reason.
    “Give it a try”, whispered the heart.

    LPBC Beneficiary

    "Keep away from people who try to belittle your ambitions. Small people always do that, but the really great make you feel that you, too, can become great!"

  33. #33
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    Default Re: H28 Genesta

    Hi James

    Love the work you're doing on your H28. I have a 50-plus year old Carter 29, essentially a slightly stretched sloop rigged H-28, built in NZ of kauri splined from topsides to keel, on blue gum frames.

    On hull and topsides paint, for the past few years I've used KillRust, a traditional one pot oil-based paint sold for use on metal - (similar I think to Rustoleum). I've found it provides very good protection on wood and lasts really well and is easy to use and relatively cheap. Keep the pix coming, especially interior shots.

    Cheers, David

  34. #34
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    Default Re: H28 Genesta

    Quote Originally Posted by Larks View Post





    I wonder if that’s through both laminates of the frame or just the visible one? And am wondering if it could be a scarf repair similar to what I’ve seen someone else here do somewhere - i.e. shave back the fame about 2-300mm either side of the crack down to the second laminate, or the hull if need be, nicely tapered to accept a scarfed in piece to be glued/epoxied and fastened to the remaining frame and hull.

    Others may have better ideas, but I expect that this would be sufficient if done properly and would be neater than a sistered frame. If you google scarfed boat frame or boat rib repair you’ll find plenty of examples.
    Looks like a couple of extra butt joins on the starboard side just forward of that cracked frame. Possibly a thump at some point caused a bit of damage.....?
    What are the centers on those frames, they look like they are maybe 12" apart, which i would have thought a tad light, so repairing that frame might be good (though its a bit of a job in the water).

    Such a sweet boat!
    Nice work, love what you've done with your spars and covers!

    PS - my teak overlay on ply; ply has rotted - bit of a job to pull up the whole thing and replace. If i was laying a teak deck, i'd lay ply and glass over it and then glue (not nail/screw) the teak to it. Let the teak delaminate if it wants to, its a much easier to repair that than to pull up a deck. Phil Y - interested to know how you're deck went.
    Everyman carries within himself a world made up of all that he has seen and loved; and it is to this world that he returns incessantly, though he may pass through, and seem to inhabit, a world quite foreign to it.
    Chateau-Briand, Voyage en Italie.

  35. #35
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    Default Re: H28 Genesta

    Hi,
    Yes I need to repair that, Still looking at the best way. It's only cracked through the inside half of the frame. The frames are made up to two pieces of wood laminated together.
    what would be the best and easiest way? tossing up between laminating some this strips of timber to sister the frame, cutting out a plywood one to fit each side of the crack, or just grinding out the crack and filling with fibreglass.

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