How much does a free boat cost?

**Slacko** · 08-03-2017, 04:36 AM

I was looking through the boats for sale on Trademe (a New Zealand version of Ebay).
A latest listings search had a Paper Tiger catamaran at the top of the list, in my suburb.
I emailed the seller as it was free, informing him that I would take it.
He phoned me saying it was available and he was not at work.
I split from work and was there 45 minutes later, hooked it up to the car and slowly drove it up to the end of the street where there is a car servicing garage.
This photo is at the garage.

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20170801_120806 by Craig Slack, on Flickr[/IMG]

After blowing up the tyres, I finished the 5 minute drive to my house.
I emptied out the car of all the bits, and went back to work feeling pretty happy with my mornings endeavours.
Over lunch I thought I should let my wife know about it, so I sent her a text.
"Good for you" was the reply.

So the situation is that there is two complete boats except for the actual hulls. It is all pretty old gear, but there is definitely a functional ex single handed racing catamaran here.
It was designed in 1968 by Ron Given, glass over tortured ply. They are still actively raced in NZ, Aus, and South Africa, as a semi development one design.
The trailer is galvanised with lights, but needs new wheels and tyres, a new hitch and timber supports for the boat. This is the initial focus at the moment, so I can legally get it to the beach. Penny (my daughter) and I can pootle around on it in light winds over the summer if we like it.

Work completed;
Riveted the traveller wire yoke back on at one end of the rear beam.
Spliced a new halyard onto the wire tail that comprises part of the halyard lock at the top of the mast. This allowed me to use cheap rope for the halyard as it takes no load once the sail is up.
Laced the trampoline back onto the hulls and beams.
Freed up the pulleys at the top of the mast with some CRC.

So far spent;
$58 for new trailer light plug (which was a long disused round thing), rope for lacing the tramp on (completed so the 6 year old can jump on it), some H3 timber fence palings to rebuild the trailer supports, and a new halyard for the sail.

Next jobs;
Trailer hitch ordered.
Get 2nd hand wheels and tyres
Finish installing boards down each side of trailer to support the beams. Cover in carpet to save painting them and the hull paint job.
Fit bung from box of bits in starboard hull.
Sort out best of standing rigging onto the mast of choice and get it rigged.
Fit hiking straps from box of bits.
Choose the best of the pulleys for the mainsheet and vang.
Think about going sailing!

**Greenman** · 08-03-2017, 04:52 AM

Can't see the photo, Slacko.

**Slacko** · 08-03-2017, 04:56 AM

Sorry, got it up now with a bit of editing as well.

**Bob Cleek** · 08-03-2017, 01:56 PM

Well, I don't know about NZ, but in most states in the USA, you'll have to get most "free" boats registered with the local Department of Motor Vehicles. If the registration was not current, the process can turn into a nightmare. Most DMV's require that all back registration fees be paid with penalties for late registration, which can double the base amount of delinquent registrations. This only applies, of course, if the boat was once registered to begin with. If it's an out-of-state registration, there may be taxes due, as well. And if it is truly an "orphan," with no "papers" at all, you'll pay hell convincing them that you own it.

**StevenBauer** · 08-03-2017, 03:12 PM

Originally Posted by Bob Cleek

Most DMV's require that all back registration fees be paid with penalties for late registration, which can double the base amount of delinquent registrations.

I've only lived in a handful of states but as far as I know California is the only state to do this. Not a thing anyplace else.

**RFNK** · 08-03-2017, 04:08 PM

Looks excellent Slacko! Great boat the Paper Tiger. I've never sailed one but their reputation is very good. Check the integrity of the hulls - the joints can separate under pressure when pounding. If in doubt, tape them up with glass and epoxy.

Rick

**Powerwagon** · 08-03-2017, 04:29 PM

I'm interested to see what the cost of the free boat s once you've got her sailing again...very cool!

**Chip Chester** · 08-03-2017, 05:34 PM

Starting with $58 for a trailer lighting plug, I fear the worst. Not up-to-date on NZ currency values, though, so that could be fine.

Chip

**Slacko** · 08-03-2017, 07:34 PM

The $58 was for plug, rope and timber.
New registration here is no problem. You just need to fill in some paperwork saying what it is (trailer, grey, homebuilt) then pay for the new plate, and some road tax. They have no interest whatsoever in the boat.
Getting a warrant of fitness, which is the fit for the road test isn't too bad either.
Once over for rust, nothing falling off, check the wheel bearings and hitch are OK. Lights work? basically good to go!

The hulls look really nicely built RFNK, taped and filleted by someone who knew what they were doing. There was no sanding, filling or painting done post glassing so the workmanship is obvious.

Unfortunately the wheels were shot and modern car wheels wouldn't fit the hubs, so I had to buy a pair of new galvanised trailer rims with tyres on. Not too bad at $220 for the two.
It was $30 for the new hitch.
I picked up some free old carpet from a carpet warehouse to cover the bunks on the trailer.

Total spend now up to $308.
$100 NZD is about $74 USD today.

**Mcjim** · 08-04-2017, 12:02 AM

Good score Slacko

I have often thought that PTs look like a lot of fun. Unfortunately I don't think they would fit too well on the ramp at my club, but there are quite a few raced around Christchurch.

People complain about regulations in NZ but after reading Bob's comment I can't help but giggle.

Mike

**Slacko** · 08-04-2017, 01:45 AM

Hi Mike,
Yes we do still live in a country with some vestiges of common sense.
The powers that be grumble occasionally about boat registration and user licensing.
Luckily no one in the marine industry actually wants it, and they can't come with reasons that can't be quickly shot down so it dies off again for awhile.

There are 2 clubs in Wellington harbour that have PT fleets, so if I do get keen there is somewhere to go for a race.
I'm keen to get out tomorrow for a sail as the forecast is 5 knots, but I'm committed to racing on a 110 year old gaffer. The owner would be pretty scathing if I went out on a Cat instead!
Sunday is back to the usual 15 gusting 30, so not an option.
Next week is a better option as I will have time to get it put together in advance, and get a lifejacket off my big boat!

Next Jobs;
Wire plug to lights
Cover bunks in carpet to save painting them and the hull paint job.
Fit bung from box of bits in starboard hull.
Sort out best of standing rigging onto the mast of choice and get it rigged.
Fit hiking straps from box of bits.
Choose the best of the pulleys for the mainsheet and vang.
Think about going sailing!

**RFNK** · 08-04-2017, 04:12 AM

I just came across this https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/hunt...ran/1155621399 so thought I'd post it in case there are any ideas to see.

Rick

**Chip Chester** · 08-04-2017, 07:39 AM

You're off to a good start then. Money spent on the trailer is basically insurance that you won't lose your boat, or your boating time, because of trailer failure on the way to the water. Basic cost of admission for any trailer boat, free or otherwise. Carry on, mate.

Chip

**Slacko** · 08-05-2017, 03:17 AM

I most of the jobs on the trailer done today.

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20170805_145136 by Craig Slack, on Flickr[/IMG]

The lights are ready to go.
I carpeted the bunks, that took longer than expected.
The safety chain was still welded to frame, which hasn't been legal for some time now. This was cut off and bolted on.
I need one longer bolt for the hitch, and check/adjust the safety chain and it is ready for a new plate and WOF.
I will probably rustkill thos patched of surface rust and spray with galv paint just to keep them sweet.
I need one longer bolt for the trailer coupling.

Photo of boat from closer in.

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20170805_095340 by Craig Slack, on Flickr[/IMG]

I got the hiking straps laced on after re-stitching both of them at one end.
The spare bung is the wrong size so I will have to try to get another one.
I went through the centreboards and rudders and selected the pair that were in best shape.
One of the rudders was made with the leading edge of the foil shape at the back of the blade, so the pair do not match and one rudder wouldn't work so well. I wonder if they were used that way by someone. Classic DIY builders mistake that hasn't been picked up because it is painted and looks used.

$0 spent today!

Jobs to do;
Fit trailer coupling.
Get and fit correct bung in hull.
Sort out best of standing rigging onto the mast of choice and get it rigged.
Choose the best of the pulleys for the mainsheet and vang.
Think about going sailing!

**Chip Chester** · 08-05-2017, 08:55 AM

Key data points: "$0 spent today!" + "Think about going sailing!"

Chip

**Slacko** · 08-10-2017, 03:18 AM

It's been raining for the last few days, so I've been on inside work on the Strip dinghy.
I had another rat around in the box of bits and found the correct bung, just got to get the hull dry enough to goop and screw it onto the hull.
I sorted out the mast and got it upright this afternoon. Without it crashing down onto anything!
It is a very bendy 6.5 metre section with 4 stays near the top and 4 lowers as well.

Money spent since last update;
$0

Jobs to do;
Fit trailer coupling
Fit bung
Choose the best of the pulleys for the mainsheet and vang.
Think about going sailing!
I found a tiller extension that I can use, but need fittings to attach it.

**swoody126** · 08-10-2017, 08:39 AM

hey Slacko, GREAT SCORE

i just scan'd this thread and don't rememberize mention of servicing the TRAILER WHEEL BEARINGS

those little rascals can bite you in the posterior if not properly cared for ;-O

if your cold galvanize paint is similar to ours you need to put a UV protective coating(i use the hammered silver/gray spray paint from Rustoleum) over it since it is affected by the environment and looses it's protective properties :-(

thanks for taking us along on your quest

sw

**Slacko** · 08-11-2017, 02:13 AM

Yep, I still need to check the wheel bearings, but they seemed OK on quick inspection before towing home.
I got both the sails up this afternoon to have a look at them. The older one didn't fit the mast properly so that decision was easy.

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20170811_162545 by Craig Slack, on Flickr[/IMG]

I also spent some money on a couple of rigging changes I want to make.
I bought some 4mm Polyester sheathed Dyneema, a camcleat and a double fiddle block to make an adjustable lower forestay that controls the mast shape. I had the other blocks and some spectra 6mm for the purchase.

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20170811_162905 by Craig Slack, on Flickr[/IMG]

I also got a block with a swivelling camcleat that attaches to the boom for the vang control. I had the other blocks and some 6mm line to complete this.
The rest of the boom rigging is ready to go.

The bung finally got stuck back on.

Spend today $168, making a total of $474.

Jobs to do;
Fit trailer coupling
Go sailing!

**Slacko** · 08-11-2017, 06:15 AM

All the photo's have disappeared sorry, so Onedrive that I've been using since the PB heist obviously doesn't like remote hosting either.
Plan b is required.

**Slacko** · 08-12-2017, 05:06 AM

Trying Flickr.
Can someone let me know if the photo's are visible?

**Bruce Brown** · 08-12-2017, 06:30 AM

visible

**Breakaway** · 08-12-2017, 09:53 AM

Yep, I can see the photos.

Thanks for this informative thread and good luck with the new boat!

Kevin

**Jay Greer** · 08-12-2017, 02:32 PM

Nice find! Does it have a trapeze set up?
Jay

**Slacko** · 08-13-2017, 01:23 AM

No trapeze on these. They were allowed in the 70's I think for a while.
Not sure why they went away from them. Maybe the hulls couldn't handle the extra loads.
I finished getting the Mainsheet and vang blocks setup, and am working on an outhaul for the main as well.
I also need to put a cleat on the bottom of the sail for the leech cord.
The current racers are using leech systems that are adjustable while hiking along with all the other sail controls, but I'm avoiding all that expense as it is being set up as a beach cruiser.
If I wanted to race it would be cheaper to get something that has all the rigging systems done and the modern centreboards and rudders.
I'm using all the small blocks I have mostly, trying not to spend any more money until I've been for a sail at least.
Mostly waiting for a nice winters day now, 5 knots and sunny. Obviously it is tipping it down and blowing 20 knots plus at the moment!

**RFNK** · 08-13-2017, 03:12 AM

Being NZ.

Rick

**Slacko** · 08-19-2017, 03:10 AM

We got out for a sail this morning during a break in the weather while it changed from a northerly to a southerly.
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20170819_120256 by Craig Slack, on Flickr[/IMG]

Back on the trailer after a gentle trial sail. My daughter came out after first solo run and was steering quite happily.
It is amazingly responsive and gets along with virtually no breeze.
So with the cost of new registration, the total cost to date is around $600.
Not a bad deal with it being on a road legal trailer.
We will sail it a bit more when the weather plays nice.
Once I've cleared some work on 2 other boats out of the way I'll replace the decks on both hulls that are pretty scruffy.
I will also replace some rot around the outer gunnels on both hulls which is caused by the tramp lacing being attached with holes drilled through them with bare timber showing.
This must have killed a few of these over the years.

**Slacko** · 09-04-2017, 06:17 AM

I put some mudguards on and booked in for a trailer WOF tomorrow after greasing and adjusting the wheel bearings. One was a bit loose, the other too tight.
Total cost now up to $650, most of which is for the trailer.

**Slacko** · 08-04-2019, 03:13 AM

Ok, so that took a little longer than expected.
I've been out a couple of times with a bit more breeze on, and these things are awesome.
The acceleration in gusts is pretty spectacular.
I took the hulls off the beams in the driveway (10 minutes work and 8 bolts).
The port hull is in the shed now after a bit of a clear out.

In the shed with paint and bits of wood hanging off.

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The row of ugly holes down the inside edge were there for lacing the tramp on. This hasn't been the method of doing this for some time, the reason for this will be apparent later!

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I skilsawed the first piece of deck off yesterday to reveal the guts of this old girl. Then chiselled the edges off to reveal that it was assembled with copper nails and resorcinal glue.

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**Slacko** · 08-04-2019, 03:22 AM

Close up of the lacing holes.

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The next couple of photo's show the damage done by water entry. These boats tend to be kept under cover and cossetted a bit as they turn to mush pretty quickly otherwise. No glass on the outside other that taping the keel, just paint. The hulls can be picked up by the access port with one hand though!

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**Slacko** · 08-04-2019, 03:56 AM

The cedar rail was scarfed back to clean wood. It was done with cedar, which I have quite a bit of still. There is another bit on the same side that needs to be done, but I'll tackle that later.
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The deck is laid across the boat in 1200mm sections, which I will copy. This puts two of the plys in tensions so best use of the structure. I was trying to remove 1 section at a time so as to keep the shape, but needed to tackle the rot in the side in one go. The shape is almost straight in the rear sections, so not too much of a problem with loosing shape. The bow could get more interesting.
It is 4mm Okuume, again with no glass, so the deck is pretty soft when you move around when sailing. Quite a freaky feeling!

I wasn't comfortable with the 4 mm deck just glued to the 6mm ply transom, so will fit these cleats in cedar that will also take the bolts for the top rudder pintle.
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I had to buy some West fast hardener as I'm working in an unheated space.
It can work down to 4 Degrees C, so I didn't put a lamp or anything on it overnight to see if it will go off by tomorrow evening.

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The cedar rail is glued in and tomorrow I'll scarf a new bit of ply into the hole. I was going to butt joint it, but as there is no glass I thought better of it.
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The new piece of rail isn't as wide as the original as I have a plan that will be revealed later.

**Slacko** · 08-06-2019, 02:19 AM

Yesterday I checked the glue and it was set but still sticky, so I scraped and filed excess glue of the joints and fillets.
I then scarfed a replacement panel into the side.

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I tried the packing tape for non-stick trick for clamping the piece in place and had a clampathon with a fresh batch of glue after painting the surfaces with raw epoxy. It was cold enough that it was pretty thick to get on with a brush.
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That centrecase needs a little attention before too much more deck goes on!

**Slacko** · 08-06-2019, 02:24 AM

Tonight was the same with the glue status. Easily scraped, but I was also able to plane the edge of the ply down to the sheer rail.

I then cut a piece of ply, coated the mating surfaces of both and stapled it into place.

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I bought two sheets of BS1088 Okoume ply today, so the spend for the deck repair is $188 at this stage.

**Slacko** · 08-07-2019, 02:21 AM

After work this evening I removed the next section of deck and inspected the repairs needed.
Both sides need some of the sheer rail replacing, and the chainplate has been leaking.
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The holes for the beam attachments have been leaking, and it looks much easier to throw a new piece of timber in there.
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One of yesterdays images showed what looked like a twist in the hull, which I put down to camera angle.
I sighted it today after removing the piece of deck and it definitely is wracked, but it is pretty floppy at the moment.
I should be able to correct it when putting on the next piece of deck.