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Thread: Eggharbor sliding doors, reglued the loose panel veneer edges

  1. #1
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    Default Eggharbor sliding doors, reglued the loose panel veneer edges

    On these 1/4 inch thick mahogany panels, the panel edges since Egg Harbor never sealed them, wicked in water and caused the veneer to come loose and bubble up, only on the edges.
    Literally lifted up off the the underlying cores. They are of course about 50 years old too..
    I was thinking this could be a tough fix.

    I was pondering how to repair this, get a glue under the veneer and still have it look good without taking the doors apart or even routing out the rails to put in new panels.
    I took a razor blade and slit down the splitting veneer, cutting straight down on the side of the bubble closest towards the center of the panel side, not the door rails.
    Then I ran a small slim knife blade lifting the loose veneer all the way down the door where it was loose. Some was loose from top to bottom, others only part ways. Some veneers cracked- split off the main cut.

    At the top and bottom of the panels, at the top or bottom door rails, wherever it was loose, I sliced sideways so as to create a flap I could pull back slightly. You will never see it since it is right at the rail.

    Then i squirted in Titebond III wood glue, pulling back slightly the veneer. Forced in lots of glue to make sure the wood is saturated well, no dry spots.
    I worked the glue under both sides of the opened veneer. Pressed down sliding fingers and razor blades to squeegee out excess glue. Put the excess back into the glue bottle.
    Then dried up glue on the outside of the panel with paper towels and a moist sponge.

    This next part worked extremely well, I used a clothes iron at hottest setting. And I pressed the iron hard to the venners hard and sliding up and down, the hot iron dried the glue quick and stuck the veneers down tightly. You can watch it literally boil up the glue as it dries, excess glue will come out from the seam edges where you split and cut the veneer. Then I used a wet sponge and cleaned off the excess and put the iron on again, pressing hard, holding in the corners, sliding along the seam. It only took a few minutes to do each veneer repair. Now after the iron, you really need to wait a while to let the glue finish curing, before getting it wet say in using Oxalic acid to brighten the wood, I think anyway. I waited overnight. The veneers are still stuck down tight. the iron made fast work versus rigging up clamps and actually the iron glued the veneer back on so well it is a flat smooth repair to the original venner, as if it never happened to come loose.

    Some glue does harden up on the outside of the veneer, but it scraped off fairly easy. No glue stuck to the iron, it all slide off the iron non stick coating. All the dried glue is a similar brownish color to the wood. And pretty much became an invisible repair.

    I will post some pics later. My plan is to refinish the outside panels with Starbrite Tropical Teak sealer, natural color.

  2. #2
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    Default Re: Eggharbor sliding doors, reglued the loose panel veneer edges

    Inside view, I glued down the loose veneer here on the edges.
    Posted using onedrive, medium sized photos. I could have used large.




    Outside view of glued down edges.
    I have seen cleaned up the entire rear cockpit area with Oxalic acid, I bought a 10lb bag for $25 on Ebay, which seems a good price.
    It truly has become an invisible glue job. I did have to scrape clean some glue left on top the wood.




    other side of the left hand door exterior

    google photos album
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/YyQTU1yIo5Nc0Svp1
    Last edited by sdowney717; 07-19-2017 at 07:50 AM.

  3. #3
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    Default Re: Eggharbor sliding doors, reglued the loose panel veneer edges

    The starbrite natural light became a nice medium brown color.
    I sort of like it.
    I used to have a reddish tone to the wood.
    I will get more and refinish the transom and the seats up top.
    I would not use this inside the boat. there is no gloss-sheen to the stain, but I have read it is durable.

    Entire back part of the boat took a little less than a quart.

    posted from onedrive.




  4. #4
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    Default Re: Eggharbor sliding doors, reglued the loose panel veneer edges


    Another picture with a different sun.

  5. #5
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    Default Re: Eggharbor sliding doors, reglued the loose panel veneer edges

    Big project! Looks like you did it right! Adding drop shading to the name on the transom would really make it pop!
    Jay

  6. #6
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    Default Re: Eggharbor sliding doors, reglued the loose panel veneer edges

    Quote Originally Posted by Jay Greer View Post
    Big project! Looks like you did it right! Adding drop shading to the name on the transom would really make it pop!
    Jay
    Thanks, I did not get all the grey out from the wood, the stain did a good job anyway. This is sort of a test to see how I like it, but once your committed you cant stop, you have to coat the whole thing.
    The idea here for me, was to use something that is a more durable long term sealer, the product has many good reviews.
    For the sake of the wood, don't want to use products that will turn to dust in the sunlight.
    Next time will put more effort into cleaning the wood prior to stain, but I do not want to really sand the veneered ply panels.
    I can get a gallon from iboats at slightly less cost than buying 4 qts at amazon.


    http://www.iboats.com/Tropical-Teak-...xoCM5oQAvD_BwE
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    Last edited by sdowney717; 07-20-2017 at 11:52 AM.

  7. #7
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    Default Re: Eggharbor sliding doors, reglued the loose panel veneer edges

    I did a water hose spray test on these door and panels. They are totally dry sealed. The water beads up on the wood work.
    I closely looked and it actually has a tiny sheen, so its not totally flat. And the surface feels nice to touch. This sealer actually does seall all seams and cracks.
    And all the wood grain shows. It is not a murky or hazy coating. From what I read it is an easy to repair coating. I wish I had used it years ago.

    A slip mate at my other marina, put it on his egg harbor transom, used the classic teak color. It is much darker looking. The natural light color you can compare I think to 'cedar' colored coatings.
    It was his experience convinced me to try it, as after a year it still looked good.

    I used a chip brush to paint it on, then rubbed it with a cotton cloth. Do smaller areas cause you don't want it to totally dry before rubbing it with the cloth to remove the excess.
    It undergoes a slight color shift as it dries and becomes more translucent. Very easy to use. One coat.
    Last edited by sdowney717; 07-21-2017 at 09:06 AM.

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