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Thread: Sailing canoe leeboard remote control rigging

  1. #1
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    Default Sailing canoe leeboard remote control rigging

    My 1910 Walter Dean Sunnyside Cruiser replica restoration project is guided by Todd Bradshaws wonderful volume Canoe Rig. I'm trying to figure out the rigging of the Gaff Sloop and have no experience.
    My aim is to produce a strong expedition vessel so it doesn't need to be extra lightweight with delicate parts.

    1. Can anyone suggest how to use lines to raise and lower the leeboards from the stern seat? (I'm 76 with a stiff back and am unlikely to be able to bend forward to reach the leeboards)

    2. I've roughed out the yard and boom goosenecks in mahogany and wonder if they will be strong enough? If not would a rope grommet do the job and how would I attach the parrel beads to the grommet?

    3. Small new wooden blocks seem to cost about $150 each. Can anyone recommend a less costly source or used ones? I might be able to make them, but as an amateur it seems I have to do things twice to get a part good enough. "Perfection is the enemy of good enough" seems to be my project motto. ☺

    Thank you so much for your help.
    p.s. Sorry about photos not rotated. They did this when I uploaded them to this page.

    Jim Reid Toronto Canada20200201_085840.jpg20191120_122519.jpgCockpit.jpg20200201_085853.jpg20200123_145346.jpg

  2. #2
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    Default Re: Sailing canoe leeboard remote control rigging

    Most sailing canoe leeboards don't get adjusted much in use so you may want to just leave them alone. It also appears that the 'duck head' on the top of your leeboard overlaps the bracket so that it can't easily be rotated. Another option is to have the person in the bow seat handle the leeboards if necessary. The wingnut holding it on seems a bit small for good leverage. The picture at http://www.wcha.org/forums/index.php?attachments/24820/ shows the lever nuts which are more commonly used for that purpose.

    Goosenecks typically don't carry a lot of stress so you should be fine but more pictures would help. Parrel beads are usually strung on a thin line connected to a grommet in the sail or directly to the spar/boom so I may not understand your question.

    I've always used bronze blocks which seem readily available on eBay, craigslist, and other auction sources so you may want to check there. This looks like a fun project. Good luck,

    Benson

  3. #3
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    Default Re: Sailing canoe leeboard remote control rigging

    I think you mean gaff jaws on the spar and boom. Use white oak if the mahogany breaks. Here's one that I built, would be better if the grain curved right for each side of the jaw. the Parrell beads are on a line that is lashed to a hole in the end of one jaw and tied through a hole in the other end of the gaff jaw.

    As for wooden blocks you either need to be a millionaire or make your own. Occasionally you can find one at a marine flea marker or ebay.





    "The enemies of reason have a certain blind look."
    Doctor Jacquin to Lieutenant D'Hubert, in Ridley Scott's first major film _The Duellists_.

  4. #4
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    Default Re: Sailing canoe leeboard remote control rigging

    I adjust my canoe leeboard with a simple line through a hole in the top. Mine is mounted on a pipe and swings freely. The board is ash, heavy enough to trim straight down under it's own weight. Adjusting it helps steer the boat and is important when beaching it to avoid capsize. I don't cleat the line, just run it through the open gunwale to form a slip knot. If yours doesn't sink under it's own weight, you might add lead, or use a stick to push and pull it. The stick can be attached with light line.

  5. #5
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    Default Re: Sailing canoe leeboard remote control rigging

    Making blocks in a home shop can be a pleasant winter pastime. I highly reccomend a wood burning stove and a good stereo system plus a bit of single malt Scotch for visitors. If you have a small metal lathe shives can be made of lightweight Delrin with a oilite centered bronze insert. The block shells can be either made with wooden shells or Everdure Bronze plate.
    See "The Marlin Spike Sailor" by Harvey Garrett Smith or draw up and make your own Herreshoff Style blocks as seen here.
    Jay

    https://www.amazon.com/s?k=the+marli...ref=nb_sb_noss



  6. #6
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    Default Re: Sailing canoe leeboard remote control rigging

    Lee board handling is usually much easier when they are heavy enough to drop on their own. Raising them can be done with a line from the end of the board to a cleat someplace more convenient. If the angle is awkward or the board is heavy, the line is often ran through a block at the rail.

    (http://www.zalmschouw.nl/wp-content/...2018/07/05.jpg)

  7. #7
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    Default Re: Sailing canoe leeboard remote control rigging

    Quote Originally Posted by Thorne View Post
    I think you mean gaff jaws on the spar and boom. Use white oak if the mahogany breaks. Here's one that I built, would be better if the grain curved right for each side of the jaw. the Parrell beads are on a line that is lashed to a hole in the end of one jaw and tied through a hole in the other end of the gaff jaw.

    As for wooden blocks you either need to be a millionaire or make your own. Occasionally you can find one at a marine flea marker or ebay.





    Luv the hat Thorne. Very nice gooseneck and canoe.
    Will make oak ones for back up. Thanks for your input.

  8. #8
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    Default Re: Sailing canoe leeboard remote control rigging

    Oops. Still learning how to reply.

    Luv the hat Thorne. Very nice craft.
    Will make backup set of goosenecks. May try making wood blocks.
    Thanks for your help.

  9. #9
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    Default Re: Sailing canoe leeboard remote control rigging

    That's good news John. I think they may trim straight down so I'll stop fretting about a remote control system at least until she is on the water. I gerry rigged a 1/4" bungy line, which enabled me to raise the leeboards to the gunnel and then pulled it to trim when the line was released. But it appears this may not be needed.
    Thanks for the encouragement. Jim

  10. #10
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    Default Re: Sailing canoe leeboard remote control rigging

    Wow! That is beautiful work Jay.
    A wood stove would be very nice, but it might entice me to spend more hours in my workshop. My Barbarian wife wouldn't like that, but I can offer an Old Brigand rum for any visitors.
    I'm a bit cowardly towards working with metal, although I did buy some brass rod and plate just in case. A close friend has some expertise in metal working, so he may be the mentor I need.
    Thanks for giving me a bit of a prod in this direction.

  11. #11
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    Default Re: Sailing canoe leeboard remote control rigging

    Thank you AdB. Very handsome sailboat.
    I hope to test the leeboards in our swimming pool by June, so it should be possible to see your suggestions working then.
    It is very helpful for me to have your shared experience.
    Wrong thinking seems to be my constant companion.
    Warm regards. Jim

  12. #12
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    Default Re: Sailing canoe leeboard remote control rigging

    Thank you AdB. Very handsome sailboat.
    I hope to test the leeboards in our swimming pool by June, so it should be possible to see your suggestions working then.
    It is very helpful for me to have your shared experience.
    Wrong thinking seems to be my constant companion.
    Warm regards. Jim

  13. #13
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    Default Re: Sailing canoe leeboard remote control rigging

    Have you checked into the ACA Sailing Canoe website? http://canusail.org/ Pretty much all modern open canoes use a single leeboard design, and they have some pretty good systems for mounting them.
    Ben Fuller
    Ran Tan, Liten Kuhling, Tipsy, Tippy, Josef W., Merry Mouth, Imp, Macavity, Look Far, Flash and a quiver of other 'yaks.
    "Bound fast is boatless man."

  14. #14
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    Default Re: Sailing canoe leeboard remote control rigging

    Quote Originally Posted by Ben Fuller View Post
    Have you checked into the ACA Sailing Canoe website? http://canusail.org/ Pretty much all modern open canoes use a single leeboard design, and they have some pretty good systems for mounting them.
    Thank you so much Ben.
    I'll certainly visit this website. Even though 1910 traditions are being respected, I'm happy to adapt modern ideas to this inspiring project. ☺ jim

  15. #15
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    Default Re: Sailing canoe leeboard remote control rigging

    It appears my leeboards control issue may be resolved. By attaching a 1/4" bungee line through a small hole in the front of the LB just above the waterline, then stretch it up and through a small hole in the LB thwart brace, then knot it to the back of the LB to a hole above the waterline, and then up over the gunnel to the rear thwart near the seat. This bungee stretch triangle appears to bring the LB vertical and rotates the duck handle along the forward quarter arc ( the brace face block has an arc cut half way into it so the handle can rotate forward) to the flat full width top of the brace face block, which blocks further forward rotation of the LB.

    I don't know if there is a tendency for leeboards to want to pivot towards the stern when under sail. If so, it may be necessary to knot the forward piece of bungee cord at the LB thwart brace. I'm hoping the tension will be enough to keep the LB vertical but also give way somewhat when I encounter a shallow spot. ��

    Comments and advice are always welcome.

  16. #16
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    Default Re: Sailing canoe leeboard remote control rigging

    Mine does not tend to lift under sail.

  17. #17
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    Default Re: Sailing canoe leeboard remote control rigging

    Quote Originally Posted by johngsandusky View Post
    Mine does not tend to lift under sail.
    That's good news. Thanks for sharing your experience.

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