Bandsaw dump score and question

[Mike DeHart]

Happy Father's Day to me! I went to the local dump yesterday and looked in the scrap metal bin, as I always do. I didn't see anything worth picking right off, but in the back I caught a glimpse of a metal hand wheel. I couldn't see what it was attached to, but I recognized it as being machinery related. So I climbed up on the back rail and my jaw hit the floor. I was staring at a Delta 14" bandsaw lying right there on top, with only a few light pieces of scrap on top of it. I cleared the debris and verified that it was in fact a Delta/Rockwell, multi speed metal/wood cutting saw, with the upgrade cast iron closed base. It took some doing, but I got it free and onto the truck. The obvious damage was badly bent upper guards and a boken upper wheel.

Got it home, stood it up, and started triage. Looks like it got dropped while trying to move it. I think this because the broken upper wheel was not in the guards, just the hub of it, and a couple of guard knobs were missing. I broke down the upper assy and did a little hammer and dolly work. The upper guards are mostly back in shape, still needing just a little tweaking. The main frame appears to be undamaged. The tensioner and alignment assy seems to be OK. The adjustable blade guide assy was unharmed. The table and tilt trunnions appear to be OK. Damage seems to be limited to the two upper guards (fixable), upper wheel (replaceable), bent blade finger guard (already straightened), slightly bent belt guard door (fixable), and a slightly bent lamp assy(also fixable.)

The real nice part, and the source of the question, is that this is a "Metal - Wood Cutting Multi Speed" model. I cannot find a model number on it anywhere. The serial number tag is right there on the back and reads "BI 7388" clearly. But this is not a model number and Delta's website did not recognize it. I always try to get a parts and service manual befopre I begin refurbing anything, but without a model number it gets difficult. I am guessing that it dates to the 50's or 60's based on the logo, a circle with red background, a black upside down triangle, and the word DELTA in the middle with ROCKWELL in smaller type just below DELTA. Does anyone have any idea of what the model might be? My Google-Fu is usually stong, but this time I am coming up empty. Also, in case I can't find a manual, what gear oil goes into the speed reducer gearbox?

Thanks, all.

[hawkeye54]

Great find, Mike - I cannot help you with bandsaw detective work, but someone who can will probably be along shortly.

You were in the right place at the right time

Rick

[wizbang 13]

I can't take a broken flower pot from the local "land recovery depot".

[Ron Williamson]

Owwm.org

they have a photo archive at vintagemachinery.org

BOYD (Bring out your dead) is the classified section and you have to join to see it,but it's worth it.

Way more info than you will ever need
R

ps it is tightly moderated.

[ron ll]

I'm envious that you have a dump where you can rescue things. At our "transfer stations", you better not drop your broom when sweeping out your truck or you won't get it back.

[Garret]

Great find! Our transfer stations are pretty tight too - but if you are friendly with the guys there, you can get stuff. Plus - that saw never woulda made the scrap bin here...

[Paul Pless]

Awesome find, modern replacement wheels in both aluminum and cast iron are available for this saw, actually every single mechanical part is still available for this saw.

Delta 28-380



they made this saw forever with a variety of cast iron and sheet meta bases

[Jay Greer]

Wow! That was sure worth the price of admission if it turns out like that one!
Jay

[Boater14]

Cast iron base. Yow. Mine in a later one, 1986, 303 F. With the upper wheel off check the tracking arm. They bend. Lou Iturra has a retrofit in steel that will not deform. I got mine from a motorcycle lover who used it for metal and it was a mess. Heck of a chore getting it out of the medalcutting gear. Works great now. Upgraded the 3/4 hp motor. Good luck.

[Paul Pless]

Cast iron base. Yow. Mine in a later one, 1986, 303 F. With the upper wheel off check the tracking arm. They bend. Lou Iturra has a retrofit in steel that will not deform. I got mine from a motorcycle lover who used it for metal and it was a mess. Heck of a chore getting it out of the woodcutting gear. Works great now. Upgraded the 3/4 hp motor. Good luck.

Mine came from a welding and metal fab shop. I know your pain.

[Canoeyawl]

Cast iron upper wheel, new complete

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Cast-iro...-/151483881972

Another (NOS-Aluminum) $39

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Delt...0AAOSwuLZYyuhT

[Mike DeHart]

Paul Pless- That is it exactly, except for your custom paint color (which I really like.) Model 28-380. Got it. Thank you, kindly.

Boater14 - The tracking arm is the tensioner assembly with the wheel axle and pivot to track the blade on the wheel center, correct? I have that apart on the bench and it appears to be unharmed. The guards took the brunt of the force and the wheel was an aluminum skinny spoke type that probably snapped easily.

Guys, don't hate me for this. I play with metal more than with wood. I was dreaming of a metal cutting bandsaw for fab work. Besides, I have an even older Delta 14 in the woodworking side of the basement, tuned up and making good stuff. My two daughters, 16 and 13, seem to be putting more time on it than I do. They are getting pretty good at making things. (Proud Papa.)

The front upper guard is hammered back into good shape. The rear needs a little more fitting. A replacement wheel with tire and bearings complete is on the way. Thanks for the links to the woodwork sites. I have (what I believe to be) the correct manual with parts breakdown for this saw.

The plan is to make the mechanical repairs right, then test the electricals and repair as needed. Then break down everything in groups, clean, rebuild, repaint, reassemble. Bearings and seals get replaced where needed. I'll paint with XO-Rust Machinery Grey. Boring yes, but good paint, available, a good color, and it will match my other machines and tools that I painted the same. I think I'm gonna like this one.

Edit to add: Still a question... The manual says to fill the gearbox, "...with a good grade of heavy adhesive gear oil." Does this sound like SAE 85W-90 hypoid axle gear lube to everyone? I don't know what else I would call "adhesive" gear oil.

[Paul Pless]

Edit to add: Still a question... The manual says to fill the gearbox, "...with a good grade of heavy adhesive gear oil." Does this sound like SAE 85W-90 hypoid axle gear lube to everyone? I don't know what else I would call "adhesive" gear oil.

Yup, rear end gear oil.

Adhesive just means that it has an additive to handle high pressure and to cling to the gear teeth so that it is not flung off, rear ends and gearboxes rarely have lubricating pumps. . .

But you want to choose one that does not contain EP additives; these contain phosphorous and sulfur and are corrosive to copper and brass which your Delta gear box may contain in the bearings and seals.

[Mike DeHart]

Thanks again, sir. I didn't know about the EP rating and the corrosiveness. Thanks for that. Does anyone make a rear axle lube that doesn't stink like rotting dinosaurs?

[Canoeyawl]

I think you want 85-140 gear oil...

[Garret]

Thanks again, sir. I didn't know about the EP rating and the corrosiveness. Thanks for that. Does anyone make a rear axle lube that doesn't stink like rotting dinosaurs?

Most auto parts stores have synthetic gear oil (Mobil 1 for example) - no rotted dinosaurs in there!

[Mike DeHart]

Most auto parts stores have synthetic gear oil (Mobil 1 for example) - no rotted dinosaurs in there!

No rotted dinosaur carasses. Just dinosaur flatulence, captured in a bottle. Pretty neat trick, if you ask me. :-)