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Thread: Building the revised Gorewood 16' Canoe - second attempt

  1. #36
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    Default Re: Building the revised Gorewood 16' Canoe - second attempt

    Because of some problems with my back two months ago I had to take a break from the build.

    After everything was back to normal I was able to continue.

    Before glassing the hull I give the most prominent part of the humps a little sanding.


    This is the one of the areas that gets sanded:


    Nowhere sanded through the outer veneer which means that I took off less than 1.2 mm.


    After sanding there is not much difference but the contour is a tad smoother.


    So the hull is ready for glassing.

  2. #37
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    Default Re: Building the revised Gorewood 16' Canoe - second attempt

    Amazing!!! And very well documented.
    "The enemies of reason have a certain blind look."
    Doctor Jacquin to Lieutenant D'Hubert, in Ridley Scott's first major film _The Duellists_.

  3. #38
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    Default Re: Building the revised Gorewood 16' Canoe - second attempt

    The 6 oz. glass cloth I use is 100 cm wide.
    The two panels of cloth for the outside of the hull overlap by about 60 cm at the middle of the hull with the overlap narrowing towards the ends.






    I installed the rub rail (made of ash) before the last coat of epoxy is fully cured.


    Sculptured a kneeling thwart:


    Last edited by flo-mo; 07-19-2017 at 04:46 AM.

  4. #39
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    Default Re: Building the revised Gorewood 16' Canoe - second attempt

    Helmut Schierer, a fellow canoe enthusiast and photographer visited me when I was glassing the hull.
    He took photos to create another one of his amazing panoramic images: http://www.rundumadum.at/detail/ru/2...olterer-teil-2

    That would be handy if there were 9 copies of me for some part of the work.
    I wonder how well we would get along.

  5. #40
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    Default Re: Building the revised Gorewood 16' Canoe - second attempt

    I already know that the Gorewood 12 Canoe fits inside the Gorewood 14 Canoe so I can easily car-top both.





    But would the 14' also fit inside the 16' canoe?





    Yes, it does. So on the rare occasion when I want to car-top all three canoes, now I know that it is possible.

  6. #41
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    Default Re: Building the revised Gorewood 16' Canoe - second attempt

    Very nice work.
    The best helping hand you will ever receive is the one at the end of your own arm.

  7. #42
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    Default Re: Building the revised Gorewood 16' Canoe - second attempt

    Any idea how much they weigh?
    The best helping hand you will ever receive is the one at the end of your own arm.

  8. #43
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    Courtenay, B.C., Canada
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    Default Re: Building the revised Gorewood 16' Canoe - second attempt

    Beyond impressive.

  9. #44
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    Louisville, KY
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    Default Re: Building the revised Gorewood 16' Canoe - second attempt

    It's matryoshka canoes! Make sure you get a picture of peoples' faces when you pull up to the launch site and start pulling canoes out of canoes.

  10. #45
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    Default Re: Building the revised Gorewood 16' Canoe - second attempt

    The dimensions of the inner gunwales are 23 x 18 mm (made of two strips of spruce), which is absolute minimalist all to save weight.
    Therefor I think it is necessary to beef up the area where the seats are installed.
    These pieces are made of cherry and will support the gunwale where the seats will hang. Also shown are the wedges for mounting the kneeling thwart.



    I skipped to take photos of glassing the inside of the hull.
    So after the thwarts and seats are installed, the canoe is ready to go.








  11. #46
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    Default Re: Building the revised Gorewood 16' Canoe - second attempt

    Quote Originally Posted by Iceboy View Post
    Any idea how much they weigh?
    Gorewood 12: 10 kg (22.2 lbs)
    Gorewood 14: 13.5 kg (30 lbs)
    Gorewood 16: 23 kg (51.1 lbs)

    When I started this build I was hoping to keep the weight for the 16 ft canoe under 20 kg.
    But then I had a mishap with my Gorewood 14.
    On portage I tripped, the canoe landed on a rock and unluckily I fell with the whole weight of my body onto the canoe. The result of this accident was a severe damage of the canoe.











    I managed to repair the hole, but because of this incident I reconsidered my plan to use 3 oz. glass cloth for the 16 ft canoe, which is just what I used for the 14 ft canoe.
    I chickened out and I ended up using 6 oz. glass instead, which is a saver option.

    Therefor the weight of the canoe is 3 kg over my declared goal, but if your are willing to take the risk, it should be possible to keep the weight under 20 kg.

  12. #47
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    Default Re: Building the revised Gorewood 16' Canoe - second attempt

    Very light for their size. Beautiful work. Thank you for the thread.
    The best helping hand you will ever receive is the one at the end of your own arm.

  13. #48
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    Default Re: Building the revised Gorewood 16' Canoe - second attempt

    Christening the canoe - Liv, a Nordic blonde (and also live long and prosper).












  14. #49
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    Default Re: Building the revised Gorewood 16' Canoe - second attempt




  15. #50
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    Default Re: Building the revised Gorewood 16' Canoe - second attempt

    Wow, what a beautiful canoe! One has to look so closely to see the gores, looks almost cold molded.

    I love how the different sizes nest like Russian dolls.

    Great to see how well the repair worked on the 14.

    I also noticed with interest how you had to take out a bit of wood along the keel line to get rid of the bumps and reduce the hollow in the middle. I'm not quite sure yet if my "butterfly boats" will be affected by the same issue; my paper models are a bit too crude to be conclusive. My signboard boat definitely has this problem but at least you don't see it when it is in the water. Whenever I've modeled a boat in Freeship that had more plumb ends and less rake, the panels came out as needing to be hollowed along the keel line just like this Gorewood canoe.

    I'm still working on a butterfly boat design that also avoids "that stitch and glue look" with the large panels and sharp chines while keeping the torture to a minimum. I guess the key to avoid having each chine or gore too prominent is to have more of them.

  16. #51
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    Default Re: Building the revised Gorewood 16' Canoe - second attempt

    Quote Originally Posted by flo-mo View Post
    One more time I want to emphasize this astonishing way of displaying my workshop by courtesy of a friend:

    http://www.rundumadum.at/images/ru/P...02_1407/t.html

    http://www.rundumadum.at/images/ru/P...01_1407/t.html
    So this is how you get so much done....there are two of you...cool 360 your friend captured and awesome build. Thank you for sharing.

  17. #52
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    Default Re: Building the revised Gorewood 16' Canoe - second attempt

    Quote Originally Posted by Hreoaj View Post
    So this is how you get so much done....there are two of you...cool 360 your friend captured and awesome build. Thank you for sharing.
    That is nothing -- look at the nine of us : http://www.rundumadum.at/images/ru/P...03_1407/t.html

  18. #53
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    Default Re: Building the revised Gorewood 16' Canoe - second attempt

    Hi flo-mo,

    since a month ago I've been now building the Gorewood 15-8 and I've just successfully passed the most scary stage, i.e., tightening the straps and gluing the bow in stern together.

    I'd appreciate your kind answers:

    1. What is the appropriate beam size of the 15-8 Gorewood canoe (measured at the widest point)?
    2. Do you consider it sufficient to have one layer of the 166 g glass fabric (this is what I have) on the outside - of course with a 60 cm overlap between the left and right strip - and one layer on the inside?
    3. How far from the bow/stern should the two seats be placed, considering my weight is 95 kg (stern) and my wife is 60 kg (bow)?


    Thank you for your answers and especially for posting your excellent plans and methods for the rest of us.

    Cheers,
    greenalmostblue

  19. #54
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    Default Re: Building the revised Gorewood 16' Canoe - second attempt

    Hi greenalmostblue,
    beam measured at the shear at the inside of the hull should be about 86 cm.
    The width at the shear will influence the amount of rocker of the hull. You don't want too much or too little rocker.

    For a canoe made of 4 mm poplar plywood the way you plan to glass the hull would be sufficient. I am not so sure about a hull made of 3 mm poplar plywood. It may work but you will have to be very careful when using the canoe.

    There is a simple way to determine the placement of the seats for a balanced weight distribution.
    In your case the front edge of the bow seat should be placed 95 cm from the middle of the canoe and the front edge of the stern seat should be placed 60 cm measured from the middle. Then you have a nicely balanced canoe. The same is true if you multiply the distances by the same factor. For example 95 x 1.1 = 104.5 cm and 60 x 1.1 = 66 cm.

    But I do not recommend this placement for several reasons.

    The stern paddler would sit too close to the middle of the canoe where you have to lean to the side to put the paddle in the water. If you move the seats proportionate soon there will not be room enough for the bow paddler.

    Also as soon as you or your wife will paddle with someone else with a different weight the balance will be off anyway.

    I'd rather recommend to place the front edge of the seats at an equal distance of 105 cm measured from the middle of the canoe. For the price of a stern-heavy trim you will be able to make better use of the paddle. If you carry some equipment with you, you could place it front or right behind the bow paddler to compensate for the stern-heavy trim.

    Kind regards
    Stefan

  20. #55
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    Default Re: Building the revised Gorewood 16' Canoe - second attempt

    Hi Stefan,

    thank you for the answers. I will certainly stick to your recommendations. Still, a possible improvement for the placement of the seats might be some kind of longitudinally adjustable setup. Not by much, perhaps up to 10 cm in each direction. Hopefully this is not an unnecessary complication. BTW, how high should the seats be relative to canoe edge?

    Kind regards,

    Andrej

  21. #56
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    Default Re: Building the revised Gorewood 16' Canoe - second attempt

    My recommendation for seat height is about 24-25 cm measured from the bottom of the hull.
    The height of the seating position will influence the center of gravity and therefor the stability of the canoe. If you sit really low the canoe will be more stable but this position will be uncomfortable and if you want to paddle in a kneeling position there is no room for your feet underneath the seat.
    If the seat is up high then the canoe feels very tippy and only controllable form a kneeling position.

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