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Thread: Cleat Proportions

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
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    Default Cleat Proportions

    I used to have a design chart for cleats. I think it was originally published by Sparkman and Stephens or similar. I might have found it here. It showed all necessary dimensions as a factor of line size.

    Anyone know of such a thing? Got a link to it?

    Thanks,

    Phil

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 1999
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    Default Re: Cleat Proportions

    I don't know where I put it but I made a standard pattern for the cleats I must make for Meg. I wanted them to maintain proportions through two different line sizes. Basically I made the curve under the horns a bit over the diameter of the line. I made the total cleat, best I now recall, about 15 diameters long with the horns 5 diameters each. I made the total height of the cleat about 2-1/2 diameters high with the thickness of the horns tapering from about 1-1/2 diameters at the root down to about a diameter. I have been playing a lot with the thickness but two diameters seems good. Once a square sided blank was out, I'd taper the sides of the horns with a little artistry. I think I can find a photo of some prototypes I like that I made for Marmalade.

    At least that was a start.

    Here we are. A little hard to see but you can see that the shape is worked for the line size to keep jamming up.


  3. #3
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    Default Re: Cleat Proportions

    Ian,
    Thanks! That is just what I need.

    Phil

  4. #4
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    Default Re: Cleat Proportions

    Absolutely. Make some models from pine or something. I draw on the face of a bit of plank, drill a couple of holes for what will be at the ends of the base and roots of the horns, and then cut out.

    Make them pretty.

  5. #5
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    Default Re: Cleat Proportions

    For future reference, HERE is an article about building cleats from the great Hervey Garrett Smith's patterns.


  6. #6
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    Default Re: Cleat Proportions

    Quote Originally Posted by sharpiefan View Post
    For future reference, HERE is an article about building cleats from the great Hervey Garrett Smith's patterns.

    According to the book this at 8" long by 1 2/2" high and 1 1/4 tapering to 1" wide suits "3/8 to 1/2 " rope". No idea what circ line this smaller version suits.
    It really is quite difficult to build an ugly wooden boat.

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  7. #7
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    Default Re: Cleat Proportions

    I can't provide proportions, but will comment that make sure its big enough to take the number of lines you may need to belay to it at one time. Not implying that bigger is better, but to consider use. For example, a cleat amidship might need to take two spring lines, plus the line for a fender. And what about those 3/4-inch lines they use at the fuel dock or yacht club float? The Extra lines during a storm? Can we wrap them on?

    See what I mean?

    Kevin

    Kevin
    There are two kinds of boaters: those who have run aground, and those who lie about it.

  8. #8
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    Apr 2000
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    Default Re: Cleat Proportions

    You want to be able to make 2 wraps plus a hitch without your line slipping off the end of a horn as you're doing so in the rain, wind, cold, dark, with stiff line, gloves on, and while your attention is focused elsewhere, like on the reef close ahead.

    In other words, figure out what size rope will be involved. And don't make the horns too short.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2000
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    Default Re: Cleat Proportions

    Also, if the cleat will be used after the belay to hold a coil of line, like a halyard on a mast after the sail is up, you need room for one more turn.

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