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Thread: Veneers

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Portland, Oregon
    Posts
    41,406

    Default Veneers

    A while back - someone was asking about veneers.

    I buy veneers locally when I can. But when it's anything beyond the basics, this is my primary source.

    https://www.certainlywood.com/?utm_s...m_medium=email
    David G
    Harbor Woodworks
    http://www.harborwoodworking.com/boat.html

    "It was a Sunday morning and Goddard gave thanks that there were still places where one could worship in temples not made by human hands." -- L. F. Herreshoff (The Compleat Cruiser)

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Lexington, SC
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    4,983

    Default Re: Veneers

    Thanks David. I was just thinking of ordering some. I'll check these guys out.
    Chuck Thompson

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Lexington, SC
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    4,983

    Default Re: Veneers

    I did buy some from them. Gave me pause when I realized I'd have to trim and join the pieces myself. And also they aren't backed which makes them somewhat fragile. It all worked out fairly well though. Big dollar savings although buying them already joined and with paper backing saves a lot of time. I need to decide if the extra cost is worth it.
    Chuck Thompson

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    seattle
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    11,871

    Default Re: Veneers

    Perfect timing, I was just looking for a veneer source. I haven't worked with veneers much. But they say their standard thickness is about 1/50". That seems awfully thin. How do you even lightly sand it for finishing?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Portland, Oregon
    Posts
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    Default Re: Veneers

    Quote Originally Posted by ron ll View Post
    Perfect timing, I was just looking for a veneer source. I haven't worked with veneers much. But they say their standard thickness is about 1/50". That seems awfully thin. How do you even lightly sand it for finishing?
    With these sorts of veneer thicknesses - which are pretty normal these days - sanding does, indeed, take a light touch. They also carry various heavier cuts in a number of species, it it's going to be critical.
    David G
    Harbor Woodworks
    http://www.harborwoodworking.com/boat.html

    "It was a Sunday morning and Goddard gave thanks that there were still places where one could worship in temples not made by human hands." -- L. F. Herreshoff (The Compleat Cruiser)

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    PNW, an island west of Seattle
    Posts
    1,219

    Default Re: Veneers

    Quote Originally Posted by chuckt View Post
    I did buy some from them. Gave me pause when I realized I'd have to trim and join the pieces myself. And also they aren't backed which makes them somewhat fragile. It all worked out fairly well though. Big dollar savings although buying them already joined and with paper backing saves a lot of time. I need to decide if the extra cost is worth it.
    Another thread here about track saws has prompted me to share my best technique for joining flitch veneer. I've tried most of the methods that people use: router, hand held veneer saw, jointing with a hand plane, jig for table saw….. But the very best is by using my track saw. Of course the length is limited by the track length, but nearly everything I've veneered falls within that range. I usually stack the veneer about four flitches deep. Any more than that and they don't lay completely flat. I tape them together on the ends so they don't shift position. Lay the bunch on a sacrificial sheet of ply, lay the track on, add pinch clamps for added security, then cut using a sharp blade and moving fairly slowly. The resulting cut is straight and smooth. The joints tape together perfectly. There is little to no chip out although on some particularly nasty veneer I have been known to climb cut and/or use masking tape on the cut.

    As a professional furniture maker (now retired) who used veneer in most of his work, the track saw paid for itself in this capacity alone.

    By the way…. you'll find out that paper backed veneer is even thinner than flitch veneer.

    Jeff

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    seattle
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    Default Re: Veneers

    Thanks Jeff, that's great advice (since I'm the one with the new track saw.) But after seeing the thickness of those veneers, I've almost decided to use 3/4" solid wood for my little cabinet doors, and also use the track saw for joining.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Lexington, SC
    Posts
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    Default Re: Veneers

    I used Jeff's tracksaw idea. It's fabulous. Works far better than doing it with jigs and planes.
    Chuck Thompson

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2000
    Location
    Padanaram, MA USA
    Posts
    9,246

    Default Re: Veneers

    Years ago, I got some lovely 1/16" mahogany veneer from Edensaw.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    seattle
    Posts
    11,871

    Default Re: Veneers

    I just today used the track saw to solve a rookie veneering error. I had glue/ironed two bookmatched pieces of veneer to a 3/4" melamine particle board. When I removed the tape I discovered that I had about a 1/32" gap in the veneer joint. So I ran the track saw down the joint, thru the particle board and all, then edge glued the two pieces back together. The joint is now invisible.

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