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Thread: How to free a steel to Aluminum corrosion bond

  1. #71
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
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    Los Gatos, CA
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    303

    Default Re: How to free a steel to Aluminum corrosion bond

    Quote Originally Posted by cstevens View Post
    Thanks Leo. I think I went down the same road. My list of links probably looks a lot like yours Although I also have a ton of stuff on dry stack setups as well since that's what I have on Petrel. And if you haven't signed up for a membership on boatdiesel.com yet then I HIGHLY recommend that site. Membership is not free, but it's cheap and the site is a tremendous source of info. In fact, not sure why I didn't think of this before, but that would be a great place to look for advice on getting the blower off.
    Yes, all signed up on boat diesel for a few years now. That is a great site. Oddly though on this particular subject I got more and better ideas here on WB forum. On the noise front do some research into noise from the intake. When I did my testing I was surprised to hear a lot of noise coming from the intake. Not much information out there on quietening the intake though. I ended up building a folded horn with a null at the frequency of the most objectionable noise. It worked, and very little back pressure! It does look ugly though. Don't know if the smaller engines make the same intake noise, but it might be worth looking into. I think the source was back pumping from the blower but that was just a guess.

    Cheers

  2. #72
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Seattle, WA
    Posts
    2,210

    Default Re: How to free a steel to Aluminum corrosion bond

    Re: intake noise. Yes, definitely on my list. Tentative plan is to build a baffled duct for the intake but I'm going to deal with everything else first and see how bad it is.

  3. #73
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
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    Los Gatos, CA
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    303

    Default Re: How to free a steel to Aluminum corrosion bond

    Quote Originally Posted by cstevens View Post
    Re: intake noise. Yes, definitely on my list. Tentative plan is to build a baffled duct for the intake but I'm going to deal with everything else first and see how bad it is.
    Yes of course! You don't have a cabin sole, so the status of engine noise is way down you list I am sure.

    She sure is cute. Reminds me of the little TUG that could. I like work boats for the same reasons I like old Dodge power wagons. Form following function is visually stimulating. Maybe because you see so little of that these days.

  4. #74
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Location
    NJ, USA
    Posts
    1

    Default Re: How to free a steel to Aluminum corrosion bond

    Pardon me for resurrecting an old thread and as well that this is not about boats. I do have a steel seized in aluminum housing issue.

    I've broken a steel bolt in an aluminum swingarm (motorcycle part). I've been trying to drill out the bolt and then managed to break a drill bit within the bolt and can't get it out. I have not been able (yet) to find a machine shop that will work on it to remove the bolt and tap new threads. This is am 8mm bolt in about a 1" deep aluminum housing - the bolt is another 1/2" long past the housing but the back end is not accessible.

    I'm very intrigued by the comments on using an alum solution to dissolve the steel bolt without damaging the aluminum. I'm tempted to try it. The swingarm is painted with some sort of epoxy (?) paint that I cannot identify.
    The questions I have are:
    - Will the alum solution destroy the paint ?
    - Will the structural integrity of the aluminum be compromised ?

    Again, please pardon the intrusion into the boat building world.

    Thanks, V.

  5. #75
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Los Gatos, CA
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    303

    Default Re: How to free a steel to Aluminum corrosion bond

    No problem. I think that most people on here will tolerate almost anything as long as something old is being fixed where it otherwise would have been thrown out.

    What I ended up doing was using a tig welder to slowly build the bolt shaft up and eventually past the aluminum. Then I put a bolt over the built up section and filled it in so that it essentially became a new head for the bolt. All the while the heat of welding was causing the steel bolt and aluminum case to expand and contract at different rates and this differential movements was breaking the corrosion little by little.

    Then wiggle back and forth, wrench on the bolt's new head and it came out.

    I think the etching solution would have worked fine, but my situation was horizontal not vertical, and I am three hours away from the boat so keeping the etching solution in the area would not have been easy.

    Good luck if you are still fighting with it.

    Quote Originally Posted by vasuvius View Post
    Pardon me for resurrecting an old thread and as well that this is not about boats. I do have a steel seized in aluminum housing issue.

    I've broken a steel bolt in an aluminum swingarm (motorcycle part). I've been trying to drill out the bolt and then managed to break a drill bit within the bolt and can't get it out. I have not been able (yet) to find a machine shop that will work on it to remove the bolt and tap new threads. This is am 8mm bolt in about a 1" deep aluminum housing - the bolt is another 1/2" long past the housing but the back end is not accessible.

    I'm very intrigued by the comments on using an alum solution to dissolve the steel bolt without damaging the aluminum. I'm tempted to try it. The swingarm is painted with some sort of epoxy (?) paint that I cannot identify.
    The questions I have are:
    - Will the alum solution destroy the paint ?
    - Will the structural integrity of the aluminum be compromised ?

    Again, please pardon the intrusion into the boat building world.

    Thanks, V.

  6. #76
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    22,428

    Default Re: How to free a steel to Aluminum corrosion bond

    Quote Originally Posted by leop View Post
    I wish there were more old timer shipwrights around. I would gladly pay them to come and explain to me how that plywood was arched with no ribs. Mind you it's from 1948 so I don't think it's laminated but there must be a way to find out what happens if you cut a hole in it.

    For the love of God, why do people do these things? Why would you let the boat sink in the first place. And when you raised it would it have been that hard to pickle the engines? I have never seen shoddy workmanship as that I have seen in boats. What is it about boats that causes people to do their worst work? It's not just my boat - a lot of boats I looked at buying had been real nice until about 10-15 years into their life. At that point the workmanship goes way down to the point of being dangerous. Gas fired home water heaters!!! speaker wire with 115V on it???? stuck open through hulls with wooden plugs driven in AS A PERMANENT FIX?

    I noticed you also have a 4-53 engine your boat. Are you happy with it (i have never heard one run) and does it make much noise?
    That one's easy.

    If the entire roof is one piece of plywood and nothing else, it was laminated over an arched form.

    Best of luck.

    I don't do mechanic work very often, but when I do I have found that it is often easier to dismantle the heck out of something rather than get my stoopid mitts stuffed into that tiny gap.

    If it were me, I would pull the engine.
    Rattling the teacups.

  7. #77
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Los Gatos, CA
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    303

    Default Re: How to free a steel to Aluminum corrosion bond

    Yes pulling the engine was my first choice, but the blower had to be removed before the engine could be pulled, so there was no choice but to get that bolt out, or cut a big blower shaped section out of the deck adjacent to the engine hatch.

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