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Thread: Lithuanian mini tug build

  1. #1
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    Default Lithuanian mini tug build

    Dear all,
    I'm starting this thread (and stealing the big part of the name), by taking advice from Mermod.
    It's the first build for me, and the point of this thread is to show You my struggle. And of course to get Your insights of what I'm doing wrong, before I've got myself into big trouble.
    If You have any questions, ask here, or in private.
    So far I'm about one week into project. I spend 2-3 hours a day in average.
    Last edited by Simonas; 01-16-2017 at 02:38 PM.

  2. #2
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    Default Re: Lithuanian mini tug build



    Chine log looks ok at outside


    Not as good on the inside. I've tried to use router on that,
    but since I have only homemade jig for tracing outside edge, it went wrong first time.
    Now I don't know how to fix it, because it's 1.4 inch left of 1.5 required.
    Last edited by Simonas; 01-16-2017 at 02:42 PM.

  3. #3
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    Default Re: Lithuanian mini tug build

    Today I've skipped couple of pages in plans, because I don't like to start dealing with epoxy.
    So ended up cutting oak board for what's going to be stem one day.



    Plans calls for Douglas Fir, but I can only have oak, so should be ok. On the sides, where the panels will meet the stem
    should be quarter round pine stripes. Strange, why different types of wood?

    Sorry for the size of pics. Next time will be larger.

  4. #4
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    Default Re: Lithuanian mini tug build

    Hi Simonas, nice to see you started a build log I think the plans mention the pine quad because it was designed to be built with off the shelf timber moldings from the local hardware store without needing anything too hard to get hold of.
    Keep up the good work!

    Phill

  5. #5
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    Default Re: Lithuanian mini tug build

    With care and study you will build a fine boat. Launching day will be memorable.
    My father's father came from Lithuania.

  6. #6
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    Default

    Sweet! Another mini tug. I am following along.

    Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

  7. #7
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    Default Re: Lithuanian mini tug build

    Hi Phill,
    just taking Your advice.
    I really doubt, that we have it here in hardware store. It would be easier for me to cut it out from piece of pine, or oak. Maybe I'll do it from oak, because pine is not so strong.

    Quote Originally Posted by mermod View Post
    Hi Simonas, nice to see you started a build log I think the plans mention the pine quad because it was designed to be built with off the shelf timber moldings from the local hardware store without needing anything too hard to get hold of.
    Keep up the good work!

    Phill
    Last edited by Simonas; 01-17-2017 at 01:59 AM.

  8. #8
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    Default Re: Lithuanian mini tug build

    That the way to do it. BUT, I will not seek for perfection, because in my mind it's the first boat, not the only one, that I'm going to build. We'll see.
    I think, that more Lithuanians live abroad, than in Lithuania itself. How strange is that? :/
    So You still have Lithuanian genes!

    Quote Originally Posted by johngsandusky View Post
    With care and study you will build a fine boat. Launching day will be memorable.
    My father's father came from Lithuania.

  9. #9
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    Default Re: Lithuanian mini tug build

    Thanks for the attention.

    Quote Originally Posted by Rogan View Post
    Sweet! Another mini tug. I am following along.

    Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

  10. #10
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    Default Re: Lithuanian mini tug build

    Here's the update: I've cut and routed cabin shelves, as plans says, it will be not possible to do later on.


    I've also routed stem, but with smaller router bit, than plans call (1/4 radius instead of 1/2). I don't know if that would make any difference in future build?
    It's also a question regarding stem dimensions. It says: "Stem 2x4x 48"" But in the drawing dimensions are 3 1/2 x 1 1/2. How should I understand that?



    Preview:


    And here's my shed, where I'm building a tug:



    Peace and love!

  11. #11
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    Default Re: Lithuanian mini tug build

    It says: "Stem 2x4x 48"" But in the drawing dimensions are 3 1/2 x 1 1/2. How should I understand that?
    This used to confuse me as well, until the good people of the forum explained that 2"x 4" is the rough demension and the 3 1/2 x 1 1/2 is what is left after the wood is planed.
    Don't worry I'm happy

    "The law is what we have to live with.
    Justice is sometimes harder to achieve."

    Sherlock Holmes

  12. #12
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    Default Re: Lithuanian mini tug build

    Nice build thread. Keep up the good work.

    Quote Originally Posted by johngsandusky View Post
    My father's father came from Lithuania.
    Both of my great-grandparents, who lived long enough for me to know them.
    Sveiks!

  13. #13
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    Default Re: Lithuanian mini tug build

    Hi

    In the US the piece of wood that is called "2x4" is actually only 1.5 x 3.5 inches. (All lumber in the US follows the same rule: 2x8 is really 1.5 x 5.5. One-inch lumber is really only 3/4 inch thick). So the shopping list would say "Buy a 2x4x48" but the dimensions on the plans would show the real size. I don't know how the lumber in Europe is sold, but you should follow the dimensions on the plans.

    Hope that helps.

  14. #14
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    Default Re: Lithuanian mini tug build

    Labas! Which city they are from? Soon we could talk Lithuanian here.

    Quote Originally Posted by Jefe View Post
    Nice build thread. Keep up the good work.



    Both of my great-grandparents, who lived long enough for me to know them.
    Sveiks!

  15. #15
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    Default Re: Lithuanian mini tug build

    Thanks for the answers regarding dimension.
    I wonder is there any problem, if I use two pieces of lumber to make keels?

  16. #16
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    Default Re: Lithuanian mini tug build

    Hi,
    some update:
    I've spend some time thinking how to make chine log inside nice, and came up with a simple jig for router. (I know, that router should have one, but since I've bought it used, it hasn't)


    Actually, I'm quite satisfied with a result.



    Next, what I've done, is rebate for resin to fill, where bottom sheets meet:


    And then, I got some bitter experience. I've research a lot, and got valuable answer from Phill, but since I was not able to find epoxy in my country, I've decided to give it a try to polyester resin. That was ugly smell, and I will not continue with that.


    Now I have a problem. I've not made good enough support, and during the night, while curing, two sheets has mismatched.



    Any ideas how to fix it are very welcome.

    Also I'm interested, will epoxy go well over polyester?

    Thanks.
    God bless!

  17. #17
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    Default Re: Lithuanian mini tug build

    No ideas how to remove polyester? Today I've separated sheets with chisel, but if I need to use it for the whole clean up it will take couple of days..

  18. #18
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    Default Re: Lithuanian mini tug build

    Gotta grind/chisel it all off. Need better support for matching up the edges of the plywood. Gotta use epoxy. It's expensive but really the best. The real strength holding the pieces together comes from the bulk head bases and fiber glassing the entire bottom.

  19. #19
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    Default Re: Lithuanian mini tug build

    My weapon of choice would be a belt sander and the coarsest belt you can find

    Phill

  20. #20
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    Default Re: Lithuanian mini tug build

    once separated, as you said you have already done, it is time to REMOVE ALL POLYESTER from the wood

    POLYESTER is not your friend!

    i use an ANGLE GRINDER FLAP DISC(see pics at site below)

    angle grinder flap disc pics

    it will create a lot of glass dust and YOU WILL NEED to cover yourself completely AND use a protective breathing device when you remove the POLYESTER/GLASS

    keep the grinder moving at all times or you can grind thru the wood too

    once you have all the POLYESTER removed, lay the entire bottom on a plastic tarp on a smooth flat level floor and go back to work without needing to support anything

    a nice thing about epoxy is that you can use it with glass matting to fill your resulting gaps & hollows, then you can tape over the repair and you will be back on track

    once you have repaired and taped the one side get a group of helpers, carefully flip the bottom and tape the other side

    do not dispair you can recover without much loss other than some time

    sw
    "we are the people, our parents warned us about" (jb)

    steve

  21. #21
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    Default Re: Lithuanian mini tug build

    I would start with a heat gun and a sharp scraper.

  22. #22
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    Default Re: Lithuanian mini tug build

    Thanks for all.
    I have removed it with belt sander, and router. That was a mess. All clothes and everything was in the shed is covered in dust. And I had to do that with an open door, while -10c outside.
    I have also made a stand, and today hopefully will cover with epoxy.

    I have a bit of hard time understanding sequence of fiberglassing.
    Tell me is it correct?
    1.) Now I will cover the whole 4 parts with epoxy
    2.) Make a keels
    3.) Glue them (using epoxy+powder) into place
    4.) Cover with fiberglass whole bottom including keels.
    5.) Flip over, glue chine logs and bulkhead bases
    6.) Fiberglass all top side of the bottom, including chine logs and bulkhead bases.

    Is that right, or not?

  23. #23
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    Default Re: Lithuanian mini tug build

    While waiting Your answers to my last question, will post an update.
    Here's the stand I've done to level the bottom:


    Chine logs resting, waiting for their day:


    Whining chair:


    So today I've done some epoxy work:


    Notice, how uneven is the end of material. I don't know is this is bad from supplier, or it should be like that, but I was frightened, that in no way I will be able to smooth that end:

  24. #24
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    Default Re: Lithuanian mini tug build

    After pouring some epoxy on it, some parts have straighten, some not:



    These, I wasn't able to get out:



    That's the end result for today:



    Basically, it's very messy thing to do. I've done that for the first time in my life. It's not the most satisfying job I've done. More it reminds me of window tinting I saw at school age, and sweared, that I'll never going to do it myself.

    On Youtube that seems very easy, but I'm dead tired, running around the boat trying to reach the middle and chase million air bubbles away.
    Maybe I don't understand something, how to do it properly.

  25. #25
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    Default Re: Lithuanian mini tug build

    Good job getting it done. Yes it is not an easy job. Lots of great information from the brothers who developed epoxy for boatbuilding. They wrote a free book that answers a lot of the questions you have. Here is the link to the book https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...8s1O1ikZX_j6vQ

  26. #26
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    Default Re: Lithuanian mini tug build

    Hi Rogan,
    thanks for the link.
    Yesterday I have discovered something while watching Youtube, I saw, that guy heats up epoxy with a light bulb. Than I understood, that I was doing fiberglassing in 12C. And that maybe was the biggest problem.
    Now I will turn the hull, and try again, but this time will heat up my shed to 20C and also going to preheat epoxy.

    Now will do the keels. And I will use local pine/spruce. It's not ideal, but I don't see what could go wrong with it, once fiberglassed?

    Quote Originally Posted by Rogan View Post
    Good job getting it done. Yes it is not an easy job. Lots of great information from the brothers who developed epoxy for boatbuilding. They wrote a free book that answers a lot of the questions you have. Here is the link to the book https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...8s1O1ikZX_j6vQ

  27. #27
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    Default Re: Lithuanian mini tug build

    Maybe someone has an idea how to understand that parts with view A-A.
    (photo borrowed from Rogan)

  28. #28
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    Default Re: Lithuanian mini tug build

    Are you referring to the taper?

    I read it as full width 3' from the end, then smoothly tapered down to 2/3 thickness 2' from the end, 1/3 thickness 1' from the end and then taper out to nothing
    Both ends to be tapered.
    It says that you should make a left and a right fairing, but if the taper is the same at both ends they would be symmetrical so left and right would be the same.

    Edit:
    Something seems wrong with the dimensions though, the fairing should be made from a 2X4 but in that case a cut of 41½ degree will not leave the little flat area between the bevels. It will instead intersect the other bevel and leave the fairing less than 2" thick. You'd need a 2X5 or something to make it work.
    Last edited by Ryden; 02-07-2017 at 04:27 AM.
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  29. #29
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    Default Re: Lithuanian mini tug build

    Rip a 2x4 at 45deg clamp it down and hit the widest face with your power planner , more toward the ends. You will quickly see it work out. I did it it's easy.

  30. #30
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    Default Re: Lithuanian mini tug build

    That looks like straight approach, and I will do like this.
    Keel is extremely complicated.
    Very strange, knowing it's 5mph boat.

  31. #31
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    Default Re: Lithuanian mini tug build

    Ok, so that means, that I have to smoothen sharp edge of the fairing? This drawing doesn't make any sense for me.
    Is that what I should come up with?

  32. #32
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    Default Re: Lithuanian mini tug build

    Yes , like the picture above, plane the face of board that is showing, at each end and it will become "sharp" and fair. If you try with scrap piece of wood it will become very clear and easy to understand.

  33. #33
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    Default Re: Lithuanian mini tug build

    I will. Thanks. And what's the point of that part?

    Quote Originally Posted by newboatgal View Post
    Yes , like the picture above, plane the face of board that is showing, at each end and it will become "sharp" and fair. If you try with scrap piece of wood it will become very clear and easy to understand.

  34. #34
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    Default Re: Lithuanian mini tug build

    Hi,
    could someone tell me, why plans call for:
    1. Not installing support block at the end of keel (for shaft) at the moment of keel assembly? I think, that it will be very difficult to crawl under boat to instal them, once the boat turned.
    2. Painting the whole bottom, while it is up? Would do that with pleasure, but side sheeting fiberglass will go over bottom fiberglass.

    Thanks.

  35. #35
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    Default Re: Lithuanian mini tug build

    Welcome! I am also building a mini-tug. but a Candu Jr, not the Candu-EZ like you. http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthre...r-Mini-Tugboat

    I was also afraid the first time I worked with epoxy. You can read all the books, and you should, but as you know already you have to actually do it and get the "feel" of how much to do at a time and how fast you can work to keep the bubbles managed.

    The reason to paint the bottom first is that once you flip the boat back over you won't flip it back, so painting the bottom would be very difficult. Mermod and I both chose to glass the sides first, then flip the boat again to paint the bottom.

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