And the stringers are epoxied in place with 20mm stainless steel screws drilled from outside. They have really stiffened up the sides and equaled out the shape of the hull. Still enough flex there to level things up before filleting though.
The view from the helm.... Note I put in a second spreader as it felt like it needed it and the full beam.
So I'm feeling rather smug this evening. A good day's progress and a boat that I think looks pretty much the right shape. Do let me know if you have spotted anything that I'm missing or have advice for the next step. I'm planning to level out and begin filleting once she's had a chance to relax into shape for a few days. It was amazing how tightening the stitches pulled her into shape. A very useful tip was to bevel the edges. I couldn't see how this would help at first but I think it probably made a lot of difference.
When you start putting epoxy in the seams keep the tabs small. Once they've set up you'll be removing the wire ties and putting one long epoxy fillet the whole length of the seam. This fillet will (should) completely cover your glue tabs and this is much easier if the glue tabs are kept small. They don't need to be large. Another frequent mistake is making the fillets too large. They don't add strength but are there to give a radius to the glass tape when you get that far. As far as minimizing future work, clean up the fillets as you go so that there is very little sanding to do later. Sorry if you already know this but I've seen some great woodwork spoiled by over enthusiastic use of epoxy.
Having said all that, your build is looking great. I agree with you about the lines. She is a very graceful lady. Hey now, that would be a good name. I might just use it.
Cheers Roy. I hadn't realised that about the fillets. Makes good sense. This is why i love the forum. Its great to have the advice of more experienced builders.
The name has already been chosen months ago but i won't tempt the God's revealing it just yet. Graceful lady would be very fitting though. That's largely what attracted me to the design.
The photography isn't brilliant. It was just an experiment with my new camera.
Started filletting today. Sadly my garage floor isn't level (or flat) so I suspended the boat from the ceiling to get her level. Also realised that the trolley I made for her makes her so high I can't get to the seams in the bow. No matter, I'll lower it once these fillets have set.
I've also cut the forward bulkhead and deck to size.
And the rear seat and riser.
So I'm after a bit of advice regarding the fitting out. Firstly regarding whether to go for the dagger board or full centre board option? I prefer the pivoting centre board generally as I think they are tidier than a dagger board and you can more easily deploy a small amount of board when running downwind to help with broaching. It also avoids the issue of where to put it when not in use but I'm a little worried about whether this then takes up a lot of the room in the cockpit. Do any fellow builders have opinions on this?
My second question is regarding hatch covers. I plan to put two of these on the mid-ship thwart and one under the tiller....
Do you think they will remain airtight enough to maintain buoyancy in a capsize?
Is there a reason why you need more than a six inch screw type hatch anywhere?They are readily available and fairly watertight.
Yes, my plan and largely the reason this design attracted me is that i plan to fit her out for overnight camping with a boom tent so I'll need a few lockers to store bulky items. I figure that as long as i dont go overboard there'll still be enough air space to provide floatation and the side benches will be sealed airtight.
Nice neat work on the fillets. As for the hatch lids, I used something similar on another boat. On one occasion when I was swamped by a very large boat wake (we have lots of freighters going through to the harbour) they were not waterproof.
Thanks Roy. I guessed that might be the case. I think I'll leave the side benches airtight then risk the hatch covers on the centre thwart and make the aft seat with a lifting lid but use waterproof bags for things i don't want getting wet.
I decided I wanted a prettier and more robust transom.
Looking good. The "strip planked" transom will be nice.
Been a busy weekend (and a wet one). I've removed all of the stitches and was relieved that the seams didn't all pop free, leaving me with 5 flat panels once again :-) I've now put on the second fillets and taped all the inside seams. Theoretically I should now have a watertight boat. I'm learning as I go and have definitely decided that attempting to wet out the tape with a brush is a bad idea, as you'll see from the mess I made with drips and runs on the starboard side. For the port side I used an old gift card to sooth out the resin which kept things neater and used about a 1/4 of the amount of sticky stuff.
I've also changed to West System epoxy and it's curing much quicker in about 25 to 30 minutes instead of the several hours with the other brand. Makes it more exciting judging how much to mix in one go:-) I've also bought some dispensing pumps and oh what a difference that has made. Well worth the cost in my opinion and I'm sure it'll improve on the build quality as I'll be more inclined to mix that small batch of resin for the little jobs if its more convenient.
I cut the hole for the forward bulkhead cover today. And I've worked out how to resize pictures.
And I've installed the bulkhead cross braces and cut all the bulkheads. Had a nasty twist in the hull throwing things off and it took ages to work out what was wrong. Luckily nothing was glued and everything is back to plumb and true now. I can't install the bulkheads yet as I want to put drain tubes from the front and rear compartments and I can't find my hole cutters.
And I made myself a pair of giant dividers. These were fantastic for transferring the dimensions of the bulkheads to the plywood.Along with the electronic adjustable square the job was a dream.
Hi folks, I need some advice if you can. I've decided to go for the pivoting centre board option and have got the case half built ready to glue the two halves together (after the three coats of epoxy have been applied).
My question is how do you make the hole where the pivot rod goes through the case watertight? Am I right in thinking that the pivot will likely be below the waterline? Any enlightenment will be great.....
I use rubber washers beneath the bolt head and case and on the other side of the case,between the nut and case and in both cases a penny washer to apply a load to the rubber washer.I also use a plastic bush through the board to take the compression load of tightening the bolt.
Dry fit of the centerboard casing with the final bulkheads in place. Notice that the casing is a bit longer than the plans state. The reason for this is twofold. Firstly I've made the centerboard a little thinner than the dimensions given, as I want it to be flush with the seat tops when raised. I thought it prudent to add a little extra depth to the whole thing to make it the same overall wet area. Secondly, the reason it needs to be flush with the seats is because eventually the cockpit floorboard will be able to rest across the span between the seats to provide a double sized sleeping berth. The centerboard case will then add support to the mid section to prevent midnight collapsing disaster.
And my plan to solve the watertight integrity of the centerboard case. I've routed a slot leading from the pivot point to the top of the casing on both side. This will be lined in aluminium to add strength. A bar the overall length of the slot will be inserted in the pivot point on the centerboard and the whole thing will be dropped down into the slot thus allowing the complete insertion and removal of the board from above and preventing any need for holes through the casing. It will also have the advantage that should I run aground (and I will) that the case will pop up on an elasticated tie down and prevent damage. It may also be easier to dislodge stuck pebbles and complete maintenance on the board too. The slot is set at an oblique angle so that the force of the water will help keep it down when moving forward. And if it doesn't work there's nothing lost, I can always drill a hole through and settle on a more conventional system.
Older GRP Enterprises had a similar arrangement.Have you given any thought to how you will replace the strength lost by removing material when you cut the grooves?
Hi John, yes the metal track will prevent percussive force punching a hole through the ply with the pivot pin in the event of an inpact and the centre thwart bulkhead will give additional lateral support. The original design only called for 6mm ply on the casing and i have more than that with the remainder of the beefed up 3/4 ply I've added. There will also be knees bracing the aft end too. Its all a bit experimental so if it goes belly up I can cut it off and put a dagger board in its place.
Wow. Working fast! Missed this one in my winter sleep... Good idea with the transom
I'm glad you went with the pivoting centerboard. Mine has the daggerboard and I dislike having to schlep an extra bit of tog around. Also, when the board is raised it becomes a nuisance (running downwind, coming into shore or retrieving on the trailer).
Thanks Fred. I have to admit I'm working to a bit of a deadline. I'm building at my parents' house which is due to be sold in the next few months. So I'm trying to get to a stage where the boat is movable and can be finished under a tarpaulin. I bought a trailer the other day so at least I can transport the boat and I'm thinking of doing a test float before I seal up the side benches. Just to check for watertightness. That will of course be after I've glassed the exterior but my next task is to fit the gunwales so the boat is fixed in her final shape prior to cutting the seat tops and glassing the hull.
I added the aluminium channels to the centerboard today. It's ready for the last coat of epoxy inside and final assembly tomorrow. I've no idea if this slotted contraption will work. I agree with you Capefox. I remember the daggerboard in my mirror dinghy. It was always getting in the way when brought inboard and would stop the boom swinging over if you raised it all the way up - fun in a gybe! It's resting on the trailer here so the silver bit with the bolts on isn't part of it.
I've also been toying with the idea of putting benches forward. Might be useful for stowing the anchors and warps. Still undecided though.
I've been struggling with where to get the hardwood for the gunwales. It seemed a bit ridiculous that the 8X40 strips of wood were going to cost a fortune and take weeks to be ordered. The solution was to buy a table saw that I've always wanted and £20 on four planks of 40X60 timber from Southampton wood recycling center. The new saw ripped the strips to the perfect size. They are now scarphed together and glued up. The bonus is that the boat is now also environmentally friendly:-)
Cheers Keyhavenpotterer. I'm not sure those little bits of blue tape will hold it together very long (joking). I think i like the forward seats though.
Using the bevel cutting function on my table saw (loving my new toy) I made some knees to the stern quarters today.
And I've installed the U-blot thingy.
I've started building the aft locker... Note the vertical knees installed to add stiffness under motor. I'll cut the rebate for the tiller and outboard motor later along with a reinforcing plate for the rudder pintles.
And lastly---- I've stuck the centerboard case down to the carpet. Oops! Luckily it's being changed.
Got the first two strips on the gunwales done. The inner and outer layers will be done once this has set up. I screwed these ones onto the hull as I didn't have enough clamps to do both without. The outer strip will cover the screws (stainless of course).
I've all but finished laminating the gunwales now. I'm surprised and a little frustrated at how long these took. You'd think gluing on strips of wood would be a simple thing but it took nearly a week to source the wood and formulate a plan then another week to stick each strip to the boat and let the epoxy cure between laminates. Just got to plane and sand them smooth and that'll be job done.
In other news the centerboard trunk is now installed. It needs a couple of knees to brace the aft end but all done bar the shouting. I've also started the lateral seating but ran out of wood.
Pictures to follow another day.