Lee Valley Slick

[Sailor]

I picked up Lee Valley's slick last night. I haven't assembled it yet. (It's so big it comes with the handle separated from the iron with a little screw to fix it in place, what a beast of a tool.) I would like to know if there are any tuning up things I should do before I test her out? The edge seems pretty sharp but I suspect I could probably hone it a bit more if I wanted to. Is this required or does this tool come ready to use? Most edge tools can use a little tune up before first use but I'd hate to ruin the blade before I do anything with it.
As an aside, I was impressed with the way the tool came from the store. It came well oiled in a sealed plastic wrap, ash handle in a paper wrap and the little screw in a plastic bag all in a box. I look forward to using it soon. Any tips on use, technique etc?

[wizbang 13]

They turn nails into butter!

[Sailor]

I can't remember the specs... Isn't Black Locust 20% harder than steel nails?

[jpatrick]

Not aware that Lee Valley offered a slick, I just came back from perusing it on their site. Looks like a nice tool. The description says that it's ready to use. I can't imagine that I'd take it to the stone without at least trying it out on a stick of wood first. If it cuts, use it.

I'm not sure that I like the idea that the handle must be secured with a screw. None of my many socket head chisels have such an arrangement. They all fit with their handles properly. Use keeps them from coming apart.

Jeff

[StevenBauer]

$129. Seems like a fair price. Less than I was expecting.


Steven

[Jay Greer]

That is a fair price! I use a home made wooden jig to keep the bevel flat when I sharpen my slicks. The mass makes it awkward to hold. If you are careful not to put rocker on the bevel, the tool can be clamped on a flat surface and the stone held in the hand.
Jay

[Sailor]

Thanks Jay. $129 was in US dollars I think. Mine cost a little more in CDN, $149 plus tax. I think it's a fair price. The handle should remain in with use. I suspect it won't come out once I've really shoved on the handle to push through some of the dense Black Locust I'm using. The stuff is incredibly hard. It takes a polish it's so hard.

[woodpile]

And one of these for the man who has everything.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...7785_200357785

[goodbasil]

Woodcraft in the states had one at one time which was made in England. I bought one but returned it since the steel was of poor quality.
The LV one is a clone made in China. Same size, 3.375" blade. Don't know about quality.
Anyway, flatten the back, sharpen it then attack something. If it feels good, keep it.

[StevenBauer]

And one of these for the man who has everything.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...7785_200357785

I have never had anyone explain why a Titanium hammer is any different than a regular hammer without it sounding like a bunch of BS. Anyone got a reasonable explanation?

[Bob Cleek]

It's all about the metal. I've seen old hand-forged slicks that took an edge and held it like a samurai sword. (Not that I know much about samurai swords at all!) The old ones cost about what the new ones cost, at least where they're available. I've never seen edged tools that are properly sharp "right out of the box." I think the manufacturers allow for the user's taste and it's a lot better for customer satisfaction to say it needs sharpening than to say it's "ready to use" when it's been through handling and the shipping department and may not be by the time it gets into the customer' s hands. Then, too, not sharpening an edge for use is one less step in the manufacturing process which can increase profits if avoided. I can't imagine any tool from China not needing fettling and sharpening, but that's my own personal bias.

I've never seen a screw holding a handle in a chisel socket. I've seen screws in boat hooks, which will be pulled in use. A chisel is pushed, so the screw seems superfluous. The screw presents a stress point where the properly matched handle should fit in the socket easily. (A sharp downward rap on the butt of the handle on the workbench will set the handle in the socket quite firmly.) The screw also prevents the easy removal of the handle if one wishes to store the iron and handle separately, as in a tool box. Some slicks can be quite long. And, a slick should have a leather sheath to protect the edge (and careless flesh!) when not in use.

[Stiletto]

I have never had anyone explain why a Titanium hammer is any different than a regular hammer without it sounding like a bunch of BS. Anyone got a reasonable explanation?

Great minds think alike! I was about to ask the same question.

[Jim Mahan]

Is it possibly the case that the little screw is to keep the heavy blade from falling off the handle inadvertantly should the socket become loose, like maybe from being a honking big of piece of steel jostling around in a tool box, maybe? If you happen to pick it up and handle it around the edge of the workbench and it comes out suddenly while both your hands are full, and it bounces on your foot, or hits the concrete, or the puppy... Some people would just ignore the screw, the sick bastrds.

[woodpile]

I have never had anyone explain why a Titanium hammer is any different than a regular hammer without it sounding like a bunch of BS. Anyone got a reasonable explanation?

Yep, exotic, high tech BS

[John Meachen]

Is it possibly the case that the little screw is to keep the heavy blade from falling off the handle inadvertantly should the socket become loose, like maybe from being a honking big of piece of steel jostling around in a tool box, maybe? If you happen to pick it up and handle it around the edge of the workbench and it comes out suddenly while both your hands are full, and it bounces on your foot, or hits the concrete, or the puppy... Some people would just ignore the screw, the sick bastrds.

I can't remember where I read it,but there was a piece of advice about being careful with a slick because there is a tendency when using one to let it hang by the user's leg after a cut while inspecting the job.The risk was that the head might be a touch loose and gravity would see it heading for the user's toes-not a good situation for a sharp and heavy tool.

[nedL]

All I can say about your question is, ...can you shave the back of your wrist with it?

[Canoeyawl]

A boatbuilders slick will always have to hole in it for a screw.

Two reasons, one is so you can knock it down to fit in your "kit" at the end of the day, and the other is that a boatbuilder will often be working above other men, and that handle can and will come loose.
A slick is a heavy precision tool for fine work, sharpened every bit as sharp as any other paring chisel. It can be dangerous, that "chisel" is heavy enough to cut your toes off dropped from the height of a workbench. If it won't, it is not sharp enough...
(The screw is a good thing and is the difference between a professional and a dilettante)

[StevenBauer]

Bob, have you ever bought an edge tool from Lee Valley or Lie Nielson?


Steven

[SMARTINSEN]

This line of tools for working with big wood seems to be quite good:

https://barrtools.com/

[paulf]

I've got one, they are well made, from China, and yes you can shave with it...a bit heavy tho!

Very good deal.

I use it for log work and rustic log furniture..also boat work.

[Canoez]

Bob, have you ever bought an edge tool from Lee Valley or Lie Nielson?


Steven

Second that notion. I've had planes from both vendors - they arrived sharp enough to shave with.

[Gerarddm]

Bought a wonderful carbon steel 3" slick for $85 off eBay a few years ago. A wonderful thing.

[Sailor]

Thanks all. I'm not sure I could shave with it. I'll have to try it and see. I am worried the fit won't keep the handle in place if I were to hold the tool sharp edge downward. As mentioned, it can and will work loose was in my mind when I saw the screw. There is not a leather guard for it but it comes with a magnetic metal clip that covers the edge very nicely and being magnetic, won't come loose in a tool box. Every bit as good as a leather wrap. Maybe I'll make a leather sheath for it. I have about 3/4 of a cow hide in red leather that I picked up in Souda Bay this year. It's a little thin but I can always put a thick piece inside to protect the edge more. Then again, with a metal clip over the end, it won't cut through anyway.
Thanks everyone for your thoughts and comments.
Daniel

[Jim Mahan]

It's a little thin but I can always put a thick piece inside to protect the edge more.

Embed the magnetic piece inside the end of the scabbard you make for it. The magnet would help keep the sheath on. Sort of like belt and suspenders.

[Paul Schweiss]

My ancient Barton slick always had a pronounced curve to the cutting edge, as did every other slick in the shop. This was to help prevent the corners from digging in and gouging the work surface. We used them to pare bungs down, even Red Cedar on a 65' motor yacht.
Hopefully the metal portion of the handle has been bent up from the plane of the bottom of the slick so the tool can ride flat on the work surface, makes all the difference to your knuckles.

[Sailor]

The handle is cranked up to allow that. There is a bit of rocker to the length of the tool so it won't lay perfectly flat. I'm told this allows you to steer the cut upward if it catches a grain and tries to steer down into the wood past your line. There is no camber to the cutting edge though. It's perfectly flat across.

[paulf]

The handle is cranked up to allow that. There is a bit of rocker to the length of the tool so it won't lay perfectly flat. I'm told this allows you to steer the cut upward if it catches a grain and tries to steer down into the wood past your line. There is no camber to the cutting edge though. It's perfectly flat across.

You will be able to hone in the camber. the first one I received ,the socket for the handle had rise but was bent to the left. I sent it back and they replaced it with a straight one but with rise.
The rocker may be a quality control issue, as mine is dead flat machined.
I'm not sure that rocker is a design feature. These are from China...

I determined how much it would cost me to make my own and the time required..the price is good even with the glitches.

[jpatrick]

I'm told this allows you to steer the cut upward if it catches a grain and tries to steer down into the wood past your line.

When paring something like a bung, the first thing to do is to take a shallow slice from the top. This will show which direction the wood wants to split. Adjust your direction of cut to accommodate.

Jeff

[Sailor]

True but when cutting a scarph joint, you can't adjust for that. Therefore you have a rockered sole to the tool so you can adjust the aim of the edge. that's how it was explained to me. So yes, it is designed into the tool. I have yet to try it out so I will not know until I do.

[Jay Greer]

None of my slicks have a screw in the ferrule to hold the handle in. I fit the handle by using either chalk or carbon paper and do a scraper fit. Although my handles fit tight and are tapped on the end when fitted for use. I never carry or lift my slicks by the handle, always by the ferrule. I remove the handles by tapping the side of the ferrule with a small mallet or hunk of scrap. The blade is stored in a wooden scabbard made to fit the blade. Scabbards are varnished on the outside and end up being oiled on the inside from the camellia oil on the blades. No rust!
Jay

[Sailor]

Got an image of that scabbard setup Jay? That sounds ideal.

[Jay Greer]

I will shoot a pic today for you.
Jay aka Jbird

[Jay Greer]

[Jay Greer]

The ones I prize are the four above. The penta top tool is not really a slick but I prefer to push it rather than hit the handle.
My favorite is the one next to the biggest. It is stamped "Keen Cutter" and is the best for shaving bungs. The biggest was found in a box of old scrap tools at a garage sale. It had been abused to the point that it had more pits in the surface than an old country road. I think it had been used as a hammer or an anvil. It took about ten hours of griding and polishing to make it usable. I call it my heavy gun. When all else fails it works! I just got a special wide tool rest for my grinder and expect to put a cleaner hollow bevel on it next time. In truth, the hollow grind does not cut as clean as a ramp bevel will. But it does give a good base to start with.
Jay

[Bob Cleek]

A boatbuilders slick will always have to hole in it for a screw.

Two reasons, one is so you can knock it down to fit in your "kit" at the end of the day, and the other is that a boatbuilder will often be working above other men, and that handle can and will come loose.
A slick is a heavy precision tool for fine work, sharpened every bit as sharp as any other paring chisel. It can be dangerous, that "chisel" is heavy enough to cut your toes off dropped from the height of a workbench. If it won't, it is not sharp enough...
(The screw is a good thing and is the difference between a professional and a dilettante)

I've never heard that before, but it sure makes perfect sense!