I used Total Boat Seal for my half oval brass strips; a 10 oz tube cost $10 and it ships free.. I installed the strips then masked them off on either side with plain masking tape. I then removed the strips and put down the sealant and reinstalled the strips. I gave the sealant 5 days to setup. I found that masking off the keels made the cleanup easier. I did have a problem with the tape breaking as I pulled it up.
I made a jig to drill the half oval. I first drill the hole for the #6 Frearson flat head then I went back and cut the countersink with a chamfer end mill. I used a finishing nail with the head cut off to maintain the 8 inch spacing between the holes. To bend the brass strips I clamped the piece between two pieces of wood then used pliers to make the bend.
"I made a jig to drill the half oval. I first drill the hole for the #6 Frearson flat head then I went back and cut the countersink with a chamfer end mill. I used a finishing nail with the head cut off to maintain the 8 inch spacing between the holes. To bend the brass strips I clamped the piece between two pieces of wood then used pliers to make the bend."
Good idea with the jig Randy. I've got all the brass on now, so time to flip. I can't wait to start the inside. Did you attach bulkheads before or after the flip?
I installed the bulkheads after I taped and faired the seams. I also put a layer of fiberglass over the bottom up to about 150mm above the bottom chime. I first taped the chimes with 4 inch tape, then I taped the upper chime with 6 inch tape and then covered the bottom with glass. I sealed, faired and sanded the insides before I installed the bulkheads because it was easier to sand without the bulkheads installed. The photo shows the inside bottom glassed with peel ply.
Yes, I used Russel Brown's filleting recipe from Epoxy Basics (http://ptwatercraft.com/ptwatercraft/EPOXY_BASICS.html) which I strongly recommend; by volume: 2 part 406 colloidal silica, 2 parts 407 low-density filler, and 1 part 404 high-density filler. The numbers are West Systems fillers. If I remember correctly I used an 18mm radius filleting stick for the bottom chime and a 25mm radius filleting stick for the upper chime. I put the filleting sticks into the chime to decide what size I liked. To make the filleting sticks I cut out scrap 6mm plywood to the same width as 2 times the radius and 150mm long. I then used a belt sander to round and then grind a wedge. Here is a link to CLC's version http://www.clcboats.com/shop/product...llet-tool.html To clean up the excess epoxy filler I used tongue depressors with one end cut off and sharpened it like a chisel.
To apply the filleting mix I used a quart ziplock bag: roll down the zip lock part, put the filleting mix in, I make between 1/2 and 3/4 cup per batch, seal the ziplock, squeeze the mix into a corner and then cut the corner off so you have about 4 to 6mm opening. Use it like a cake decorating bag. When I started I did about 150mm at a time then smoothed out the fillet. If you have skips add more filleting mix and if you get too much use less next time. After some practice I would do 500mm at a time. After I do all the filleting I come back with the tongue depressor chisels and paper towels wetted with denatured alcohol to clean up the excess. If you mess up a fillet while doing the cleanup I suggest you leave it and fix it after it has set. Just something I learned from experience.
Last edited by RLT; 04-20-2017 at 09:03 AM.
I'm glad you found the Epoxy Basics book helpful. Thanks for mentioning it.
Thanks Randy. Your detailed answers and pictures are always very helpful and appreciated.
Russell - I will need to read your material.
Highly recommended read - http://ptwatercraft.com/ptwatercraft/EPOXY_BASICS.html
Thank you Grant. The epoxy basics book is pretty basic, as the title suggests. Had I known it was going to be so popular I would have put more effort into it. It will get an update next winter. I have gotten better at shop photography and would like to replace many photos as well as adding text.
I have two more books in the long range pipeline, one on composite hardware and one on watertight hatches, both intended for amateur builders. I have most of the photos (examples) for these books but they will still take some serious time to complete.
That's the story on that...
Randy - stupid question...my boat will be on a trailer for the flip to finish the inside. When you did your inside did you get in the boat, or is it not strong enough to support a person yet?
The first time I stepped into Fish Taco there was a cracking sound. I quickly stepped back out of the board and make supports for the keel and bottom panels at about each bulk head. I did have any problems after that.
It's looking very nice!
I was born on a wooden boat that I built myself.