It will cure in lower temps. Which speed hardener are you using?
Forget the boat! Go cruising in the mini Cooper!
It will cure in lower temps. Which speed hardener are you using?
Forget the boat! Go cruising in the mini Cooper!
You keep the hardener and resin in a warm place like in the house and only bring it out when you need to mix.
I made some progress on the 1/4 round chine logs last night and glassed the outside of the hull sides.
I also ordered my navigation lights and some hatch hardware, so I'm up to 154 hours and $2647.35.
I've started planning the electrical stuff, and I need some advice ... there's no bilge in the plans, how important is a bilge pump on a small boat like this? If I'm going to put one in, sinking it 3 inches into the box keel would be the thing to do, and that will be a lot easier to do now than after I put the motor transom on. Or would it be fine just to have a portable one on board and plug it in only when needed?
Don't know if you would consider it but boat wiring harnesses can be purchased, saving you the aggravation of building it from scratch.;
Got the clamps taken off the starboard chine and sanded both side chines smooth, added a nailing surface to both sides of the stem, and glued in the shelf last night.
The stem is still straight upright, but it's developed a 5 or so degree twist in it above the keel so I had to hog out the shelf a little. Rather than be disappointed in this I've decided it's cute.
I'm pretty excited about getting the hull sides applied this weekend, although I may need to take a few days off, as I think that my wife may be getting tired of me working on the boat all the time. I deduced this because last night she said "I'm getting tired of you working on the boat all the time". It's that kind of clear communication that has helped our marriage last 25 years and counting :-)
Well, my hull attempt was disheartening. I fastened the hull pieces to the stem with temporary nails, then epoxied them inside and out. I removed the nails and attempted to bend the pieces in place. As dbrown predicted, this did not go well. One piece just snapped the epoxy off and came off, the other side split the face.
So, looks like I've got some work to do making new sides and sanding epoxy off the stem :-(
Last edited by mirrordude; 10-11-2016 at 08:38 AM.
As to the bilge pump, I wouldn't put an electric one in such a small boat. A bucket and a sponge will do the job. It sounds like you won't be leaving in the water unattended, right?
I cleaned up the stem, cut new front sections of the hull, butted the new pieces together last night with filled epoxy, and then glassed the inside of the hull sides.
I also cut the rubrail parts on the CNC. I've learned the hard way to label the parts before I remove them from the sheet. I learn most things the hard way.
I decided to do the rub rail as three layers of 1/2" marine ply. I managed to fit all the parts into one sheet. I cut a 1/4" groove into the top and bottom layers that will guide the rear hull top and bottom sections.
It took me 20 minutes to program the sheet from my CAD, then 30 minutes for the machine to cut it. I'm pretty sure I couldn't have made those parts in an hour without the CNC.
Following the plans, I made the aft lower hull pieces out of 1/8" tempered hardboard (aka Masonite).
I'm surprised that the designer spec'd this material, as it's really brittle, although it does bend easily. I suppose it was necessary because of the compound bending that gives the rear end the "salty" look. ("Salty" is a weird description, what is the origin of it?)
I suppose that liberal glassing of both sides and the short 10" height will both help minimize issues, but after reading this thread:
I'm kind of nervous about it. Anyone with thoughts or experience with this situation?
I also designed the mast yesterday. I'm going to put an all-around light on top and a searchlight on the front.
Hi, just heard about you on Facebook. I built the same boat last year and I can tell you there is no problem with the Masonite IF you are careful when you attach the upper panels to the rub rail. In my case, one half of the panel broke when I loaded weights as per designer instructions to attach it to the rub rail. I added too much weight and the panel (and my heart) broke at one end. Needless to say, I wasn't a happy camper.
So, on my second try, I was much more careful and it turned out OK. But I thought it was too thin, so I added a second layer epoxied to the first on the inside. That made a much stronger upper hull. The lower hull was not touched and after everything is in, it is quite strong as well.
If I can offer one piece of advice and that is to finish painting the inside before you assemble the wheelhouse unless you like being a contortionist
One more thing, do install a bilge pump inside the keel as you mentioned. I was very glad I did that because on my first launch, I had a small leak despite being super careful during the build. I had forgotten to properly seal one of the corners of the motor mount to the floor. So the
floor started filling with water fairly rapidly but the bilge pump took care of it. It would be pretty useless if you left it at floor level as there would be a substantial amount of water on the floor before the pump would activate, so below the floor is the right way. Just make small enclosure for the pump inside the keel near the motor mount. That's my 2 cents
You can see some pics of by boat in the Facebook group you just joined.
I got the bow hull sides remade and attached and filleted and they look really good.
I did use tempered hardboard for the stern lower hull, and when glassed on both sides it is pretty tough, much tougher than I guessed. I glassed the inside first, and then the next day glassed the outside. 2 hours after glassing it, while the glass was still sticky, I bent it into rough shape and screwed it to a 2 x 4 across the surfaces where it would attach to the hull. I then let that set and cure for a couple of days, and now with the 2x4 removed it has set basically into it's correct shape.
Next step is to get the lower piece attached permanently with the rubrail on top of it. Then I'll flip the whole shebang over and finish and paint the bottom.
what facebook group did you join? Thinking about this boat also.
Hi.............been following from the start and she is looking great.
I once thought I was wrong, but I was wrong, I wasn't wrong.
I got a miniature bilge pit cut into the hull and also got the lower rear piece attached last night and the three layers of rubrail. It was a complete pain in the ... neck.
Maybe I should have made the groove in the lower rubrail wider, because it was really hard to get everything lined up properly once all the parts had epoxy on them and were slipping and sliding everywhere.
I managed to use clamps and screws to get everything in place and set my ladder on top which was enough weight to get a nice bowed shape into the rubrail and keep the lower piece seated properly.
About 2/3 of the way through and 10:30 at night I ripped my last pair of gloves and had to finish the job with epoxy all over one hand. I got epoxy all over my drill, my square, my tape measure, and who knows what else.
Finally finished up about midnight and used 1/3 of a bottle of vinegar cleaning everything up before heading to bed.
In the light of morning ... everything looks great, although it's going to need a bunch of sanding ...
Masonite as structure? Really?
It has almost no strength on its own. It's just pulp and glue isn't it?
Is it merely a separator keeping the layers of glass apart?
I wasn't too excited about it either, even less so after snapping off a corner of one of the sheets just loading it into my van. But after glassing both sides I have to say it's really tough. Keep in mind that it's only 12" high and serves mainly to hold the 1.5" x 3" thick rubrail up. It's like the chipboard vertical piece in an engineered iBeam. And many people have built this boat to these plans without problems, so I'm going to trust the designer on this one.
i believe i think i might rememberize hearing about something i read and later saw where some company just sandwiched some fluffy foam between 2 skins of FG and call it Boston Whaler
as long as the FG maintains it's integrity there isn't likely going to be any problem, IMHO
LOVIN THE THREAD
MORE PICS PLEASE
"we are the people, our parents warned us about" (jb)
Over the weekend I removed all the screws (except one that I broke both the top and bottom off and gave up on) and got the rubrail edges rounded over with a 1/2" router.
I also spent about 6 hours just chipping off high edges from sloppy epoxy work and sanding and fairing surfaces. I also used a coping saw to cut out the excess epoxy from the hawse pipe openings.
I got a good portion of the old screw holes filled, and finally I installed the motor box sides and mounting surface.
The sides are looking really nice and smooth at this point, I'm hoping the weather holds this week so I can flip the whole thing over and finish the bottom.
where in west michigan are u located?
I'm in Grandville. I've got good friends with a cottage on Lincoln Lake, which is where I would guess the boat would be used most of the time, although it should see Lake Macatawa fairly frequently as well.
A little fun with Photoshop showing what I see when I look at the work in progress ...
No progress on the boat itself but I did get some flags in the mail that will fly from the mast. (That's Friesland on the right)
Still working on winter projects. I got a Harbor Freight boat trailer last week and got it put together on Saturday. Looks good, but the lights don't work. I knew I should have run a ground wire ... using a painted trailer frame as a ground seemed like a bad idea.
I've just been working on my HF trailer. I ran ground wires along each side, picking up the marker lights and tying off at the tail lights. Made a big difference. The HF trailer seems like it will be just right for your tug.
I'm back in action now that the temperature is consistently over 40. In fact it was 80 on Friday and Saturday ... what a change from a week ago, but that's Michigan for you.
First item was a complete sanding of the boat to get that waxy coating off of it since I haven't touched it much in 5 months.
Next, I cut and temporarily placed the pieces I needed for the fiberglass I never finished at the nose area before it got too cold in the fall ...
That seemed to go on very nicely ...
Next I purchased some 1" x 1/8" strips of pine molding and laid them out to continue the rubrail forward to the stem ...
I slid them in and out on the nails until I had them in a very nice curve ....
In at least one spot I discovered that my panel fairing had left a little to be desired, but it's way too late now ...
I left a little gap at the stem so I could use filled epoxy to fill it in nicely ...
I squished some epoxy in, let it set for a few hours, then removed the nails and stretched a piece over the top to make the finished surface ...
Tonight I'll remove these nails, squish some more filled epoxy into the areas that sagged, and fix up the fillet to the rubrail. Then hopefully I'll be on to sanding this weekend ...
Thanks for sharing your build! That looks like it will be a cool little boat when you're done. The CNC machine is a cool twist to the usual construction and it's interesting to see the strengths of such precision cutouts.
I agree with previous posters that an automatic bilge pump is a good idea, especially if you're going to have a battery in the boat anyway. The Masonite hull panel is kinda crazy but it's amazing how strong materials can be depending on how they are used, especially in laminate. Looking forward to seeing it zooming around the lake!
My wife has pretty much finalized the colors she wants ....
That's pretty, but where's the pudding?
I made a pretty cool discovery yesterday ... the cabin side panels I still needed to make fit almost exactly in the scrap hull sides that I bent the wrong way ...
After another 4 hours last night of shaping the forward rubrails and sanding smooth the edges of the fiberglass I laid earlier in the week, I was able to lay a thin coat of epoxy over the entire bottom up to the rubrail. I put it on with a spreader and then spent an hour carefully brushing the surface with an old paintbrush to eliminate bubbles as the coating gelled up. Woke up this morning and the whole thing is smooth as glass and ready for paint (primer) tomorrow ...